So I spoke to Aaron at Driftmotion over the phone the other day...and he was pleased to report that he had just installed the 7M that came from my old car into a customer's car, and that it was running perfect! There was nothing wrong with it. So tajabaho was totally wrong about all of it's...
A friend's MK3 had this problem a while back...the problem ended up being a cracked subframe and a blown shock on that side.
I would bounce the car on that corner and see if it feels like the rest of the car.
I bought an AutoZone remanufactured pump with a cast impeller, and it lasted 20k miles until I sold the car, for about $50. Regardless, I would still recommend buying the OEM part. The impeller is much less bulky, and probably flows a LOT better.
If you just wiped off the AFM and didn't use any kind of cleaner on it, then it's fine.
As far as your coolant problem...well if you don't have any coolant leaks, then you know what the problem is. I would do a cooling system pressure test at 21psi to check for leaks. Make sure you test your...
I have a Compaq Laptop with Windows XP ( I think it's a little over a year old) and it appears to have gotten a virus, because it would freeze about 5 minutes after startup, so I would always have to start it up in Safe mode. Then after a few months it got to the point where it wouldn't even...
Nice car! There shouldn't be anything under that screw...there shouldn't even be a screw there. Maybe a long time ago someone added an additional injector for more fuel or possibly a nitrous shot? Idk, just guessing.
Another thing to look for while doing the compression test (you should also do a leakdown test) is to leave the radiator cap off, and watch for bubbles. Also leave the oil dipstick out, and listen for air escaping. This will tell you which part of the gasket has failed, if any.
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