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I will be parting out my VVTi coils, DH61 igniter and pigtail harness pretty soon.

I will look into those options.

^^ I agree. but for $30 I figured I'd try it out. I have already adjusted the light pattern to focus on the driving line of sight, and to not glare off into incoming traffic. If these HID's dont cut it, I will swap back some high end H4 halogen bulbs. I already bought a set of Hella...

Silly me... I thought red was (+) and Black was (-) Apparently my friends at HIDNation are mad JDM they wire things up the opposite way. Apparently on this kit RED is (-) and Black was (+) problem solved. The E-codes looks really nice.

So here is a strange dilemma. I picked up a new set of Hella E-codes and a set of H4 HID lights from HIDNation. I install the simple plug and play stuff. I go to flip on the lights... and the light that I did not change yet flips up and turns on. The LIght with the new Housing and HID...

You could also use a little blue silicone or marine grease on the blue clips... but lipstick works if you have that in your center console :)

Ahhh first UPS delivery of 2011.

The car is always for sale, the price isn't necessarily going to stay the same :) but I still enjoy restoring a Supra! While it's mine, I will treat it like a Supra.

Just ordered some Hellas from rallylites and a set of H4 HID's for some good visibility.

Special shout out to Aaron at Driftmotion for assisting me with some Stinger issues.

So since the weather is not cooperating to do work outside. I decided to disassemble and rebuild my OEM fogs. pretty much cleaned, sanded and repainted the fogs (inside and out). reassembled them with some Toyota FIPG i had leftover from my engine rebuild. Popped in the yellow H3 bulbs I...

Guys, keep in mind the NA-VVti motor has a Higher Compression than the NA-OBD1(non VVti) motor. That is probably where the 10:1 compression number is stemming from. the 2JZGE (OBD1) motors may well have a 9:1 compression. I can get the specs from my MK4 factory service manuals if we need...

For the life of me i cant figure out a good way to remove the rusty fuel feed line to change my fuel filter. I will brave it when the weather gets warm and I have soaked the connection with PB Blaster for weeks.

Nevermind.. since my fogs were 24yrs old, I turned up the heat to 350*F for 20mins and the sealant finally losened up and i was able to pry the lights apart with ease. They just needed a little more heat.

I am trying to remove the glass from my rusty beat up 87 fog lights. Has anyone done this in the past? I know I usually bake them in the oven on low for like 20min until the sealant gets hot and gooey then, they just kinda pry away. Well, this has not been the case. I dont want to...

Forget the air valve, I got the car tuned correctly and the motor is running perfect even past 15psi. I do have one issue where on cold start, it takes about 20-30sec of cranking to get the car to stumble and then start up. I can hear my fuel pump prime and the rail is pressurized on...

I have Megan track coilovers and they are pretty damn good.

Its not a stock toyota part, Its made by a BBK manufacturer. (brembo i think.. I have to look at my notes) I have a GS350 and I have had a few IS300's in my day. F-sport is not factory OEM on any lexus. its an option package for all except the ISF. (I dont know any ISF owner on a forum...

I just completed this swap and the w58 dynoed in at 380rwhp very safely. You need an SC300 or MK4 N/A 5spd bellhousing. That will bolt the 7MW58 to the 2JZ motor. You will also need the longer SC300/MK4SupraNA W58 shifter fork. It is about 1" longer than the 7M shift fork. Motor...

The heater hose valve next to the windshield wiper motor has to be in the up (open) setting or else coolant will not make it into your HVAC system.