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I have a SupraSport BOSS 60mm triple ball bearing bolt on turbo for sale, with water and oil lines etc. It just had the oil seals replaced in it as well. Will make 600hp easy, I was making 450 wheel at 14 psi, full spool by 4000 RPM. PM me.

I am pulling the 7M from my car to upgrade to a 2J and will be selling my ITS based stage 4 GTS 60-1 triple ceramic ball bearing BOSS turbo with all the lines etc. It has just over 60,000 km on it but was rebuilt less than 5000 km ago (new seals). Will make 450 wheel easily at 16 psi. PM me.

Quick update: My HKS DLI died a smelly, smoky death and they are now discontinued. I twiddled with the dwell settings, based on this thread: http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1063121-VVT-i-measured-coil-dwell-and-results It looks like the max dwell you want is 3.6ms, which...

I am going to assume 7MGT. Take the CPS apart and clean it out inside, make sure oil isn't getting into it and that the shaft isn't wobbly. (you might need to replace the seal and bearing). Check the clearances on both pickups as per the TSRM. You want these on the tight end of the range.

I don't have an EMS2, but the setting changes should be similar. AEM tech support will be able to help you out as well.

You got it, fuel and spark teeth should be 24 for fully sequential operation 12 teeth would be for bath fire or waste spark only. Also remember to check the injector advance map - for my numbers you would set this entire map to zero, and then tune the injector advance/retard in degrees from...

If you have 24 fuel teeth set, with firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4, you want the injectors to fire on closed valves in order 6-2-4-1-5-3. Phasing would be injector 1:12 teeth, 2:4 teeth, 3:20 teeth, 4:8 teeth, 5:16 teeth and 6:0 teeth. This would be for coils 1-6 set as 0, 16, 8, 20, 4 and 12 teeth.

Looks correct, I might go with slightly different phasing. The info you are looking for is here: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?100739-Removing-multiplex-from-7MGTE-for-less-than-200/page4 Starts around page 4, but it is all good reading.

The wizard settings give you a dwell of about 2.0 to 2.3ms - worked fine for me up over 450 WHP but I have a HKS TwinPower box so that probably helps. I found that the 2JZ-GE waste fire style coils are fine with a charge time up to about 3.1 to 3.2ms (see here...

Did some looking - the V1 does indeed have the ability to output a tacho signal on a low side output. You might need to fiddle with the settings and run it through a tach adapter box MSD 8920 to make it work properly with the factory instrument cluster.

You would need to piggyback a signal from one of the ignition outputs on the ECU that you are using. I don't think it has any other provision for tach output.

I'm very close to maxing out my walbro 255 with only 450 wheel.

You could run an inline pump along with the 255 in tank to boost the pressure capability. Best to just go to the 400.

Still sounds like a fuel pressure problem. You need to get it on a dyno and watch the pressure on the FPR gauge to see if it stays steady once the engine gets to max boost, or if it drops off as the RPMS increase.

Are you sure the 255 will provide enough flow at the pressure you are running? Best to use a mechanical gauge and have someone watch it, the pressure should rise with boost and then stay stable once the max boost level is reached without dropping off as the RPMs increase.

You might need to use a tach adapter, if the tach output from the STI coils is different from the Toyota standard.

Do you have an initial fuel pulse to wet the manifold etc? That helps a lot, and lets you use starting pulse widths closer to running ones. On a cold start, the starting pulse width should be similar to the running pulse width AT THE SAME TEMPERATURE. Very important to set up the cold start...

Check. The AEM is very sensitive to bad grounding. I used one of those grounding 'kits' at the negative battery terminal to ground the chassis, block, head, manifold (both halves) and a dedicated ground to the ECU that is attached to the ground wires on the plug, and the case of the ECU itself.

Probably won't work properly with the stock igniter. The stock coils are good, they are strong. Or use 2JZ-GE waste fire coils to clean things up a bit. I still think you need to go to a different igniter to solve the problem.

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?100739-Removing-multiplex-from-7MGTE-for-less-than-200