The way I see it, we are looking at 25 year old motors now. I am going with the built 2jz bottom end when mines gives the last cough. It will always be hit or miss until you put in something that is fresh and built right.
Hey gang,
I have a question on the injector seals. I have a decent vacuum leak where the rail injectors meet the manifold. My 2 o rings around the injectors are seal well. I checked for the leaks. I understand there is a third o ring at the base of the injector and a grommet where the rail...
Check with DM for anything you may need. Makes life easier.
Getting the harness done makes life easier...also rules out a bunch of issues...went with drtweak
If I did it all over again...for the work...would have went 2J. Now I understand why folks say that...
Most of everything is straight...
Wanted to chime back with what solved my prob. Got in there with a test lamp and verified that I was not getting any power at the connector.
I ran a positive cable from the side of the 100 amp fuse (fuse box) down to the wingnut on the alternator.
I then extended the wires from the old 7M...
Thanks alot man. So let me get this right:
Two thick black wires to the alt. Positive cable to the starter and battery negative grounded to the body?
I am going to have to look for the two thick black wires. I can't remember seeing them but will check tomorrow when the car is front of me...
Hey guys,
Im In the situation of not getting any charge by the alt. Just put in a new alt but have the exact same situation of 10.4 - 11.0 volts while slowly dying.
I have read about a wire that goes to the fuse box. I have my battery cable going directly from the alt to the battery...
LOL you guys are crazy. Yup from Sept....sad part not much done on it since then except spark it up...Question is whether you guys will get your rides on a trailer down to MD this year???
OK here's where we stand! I am definitely going to powdercoat the wheels silver for next season (bout to be winter in the NE). Also some suspension upgrades. Take a look:
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