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That was one of the problems with my SVL gears. Check carefully for burrs like this. Once I cleaned all of these up (there were a few, on both R&P) the BL variation was still there but improved enough that I could get all teeth in spec, just.

Unscrew the tip from your dial indicator, measure the thread and use a suitable bolt as an extension. Cut the head off and chamfer the end with a grinder so it's nice and rounded. It's probably an M3 or 1/8" thread.

Steer clear of SVL gears. "Dana aftermarket" = "Dana rejects" Mine had machining errors, and burrs on the corners of the teeth causing inconsistent backlash from one to the next. Would not recommend.

Damn, looks like a lot of lost content in here :( In summary: Got truck running. Blew motor on dyno. Previous run made 150rwkw. Rebuilt motor. Got inspected, certified and registered. Drove the balls off it for ~3 years and ~50,000km while constantly modifying and improving things. Countless...

I would check every few months and always be disappointed, cant believe the site loaded this time! Thanks and great work for getting it back online!

So ive been working away at this and getting it closer and closer to starting. Throttle cable, radiator and fans all done and installed. I've been chipping away at finalising the instrument cluster and that's nearly done too. You can see just how little room there is for fans but they do fit...

Thanks Nick. My opinion on the cam gears is probably a bit biased because i make them, and all the other Technico parts :) The main reason I developed the cam gears is that i wasnt happy with any of the other aftermarket offerings, they all have an aluminium outer gear section which wears...

Ok ive been chipping away at the small jobs on this over the last couple of weeks and feel like im finally getting somewhere. Rebuilt and installed a starter motor Got onto a brand new genuine toyota 130 amp alternator from a 1KD engine which went in pretty easy. Ive since changed the pulley...

Great info, thanks! I thought the electric column would have been much harder but a quick Google reveals a few easy looking options. I had a customer ask if it can be done the other day so will pass it on.

Thanks, some good info there and nice to know the 2j alternator fits without too much work. The mechman looks like a great piece of kit but more than I'm looking to spend unfortunately. There are a million "high output" rewound 2jz alts on ebay in the 160-200 amp range but it seems there are...

Sure, it's just an astra pump. They are plentiful and dirt cheap in junkyards here. I haven't wired it up yet but they just get a main feed direct from the battery and then an ignition feed to turn on. I plan to use an arduino "body computer" to run a few things in the truck, I'll probably use...

Radiator clearance Electric water pump Electric PS pump Oil straight out of sump and into cooler Then into twin filters before returning straight into the main oil gallery. AN-12 lines, all the way from the pump outlet to the main gallery is 5/8" or greater ID...

Made up some new engine mount brackets to get the motor sitting where i wanted it. They are designed to take the standard MX83 rubber isolator but natuarally i used my billet ones instead. Motor is pushed back as far as i can, it sits about 10mm off the firewall but is still damn close to the...

Transmission is a modified and rebuilt R150f with 7m-gte bellhousing. NA clutch and fly with a concentric slave. New Toyota genuine bearings, seals and syncros throughout. Marlin Crawler thrust washer, bearing retainer, shift fork and shifter bushes/seats. Longer input shaft and taller 5th gear...

Standard inlet manifold got the cut'n'shut so i can both keep the ACIS and not have the intake crossing over the motor, it also keeps the airbox on the cold side of the engine bay where there is a bit more room for activities. Final specs: 12.4:1 compression ratio...

Sorry guys, im pretty hopeless at replying to forums these days :( Here's a quick pic dump of where the motor is at these days, i had to take a few of the shiny billet parts off to keep things simple for registration purposes but it's now finished and got installed in the truck last night...

A simple frequency switch will activate the VSV based on a set rpm, our local electronics store here in oz sells one for about a third the cost of the msd unit. Or if you have an aftermarket ecu just use a spare output and set it to switch based on rpm and tps

The zinc plating itself does not add any strength to the bolt. The plating process however does affect the temper of the steel. High tensile bolts are required by law (in Australia at least) to be heat treated for debrittling after plating. We can still get gold zinc done here too, I believe it...

Also, check/chase the threads in the block

I think this (along with lube on a dry torque spec) is your problem. Most torque wrenches don't "click free" - they click when you reach the set torque value but do not stop transmitting torque. If you keep pulling you are still (over) tightening the bolt. It's a pretty common mistake, ive...