Recent content by suprabad

Brown and Black hood and spoiler

First thing you do is put all the stuff you took off your car (coil, distributor, etc) back on...and start from square one. Your complicating things by just throwing parts at it. Now look at the TSRM for a flow chart on a "no start". Although candidly (and forgive me if I'm wrong) after I put...

Uhhhhhh...It's already a collectors car. MkIII's will continue to appreciate (probably at an accelerated rate as beaters get crushed and nice ones become rarer and rarer).

Moral of the story: Don't leave valuable stuff laying around. Most people are honest, but it only takes one thief to ruin your day.

Dual Walbro's = too loud for me. In fact one is way too loud. The sound is grating to me. I use an A1000, no sump, (bottom feeder, so I gotta keep plenty of gas in the tank) and I made a metal cover for it that's under coated and lined with dynamat. You can't even hear it.

It looks great and the craftsmanship is 1st rate. Not to be a kill joy but...wouldn't a mandrel bent exhaust flow better given that there wouldn't be all those sharp little angles and resulting hard edges? Just thinking out loud. I like it anyway, its certainly "showier" looking than mandrel...

Porches depreciate too, besides which most people lease them anyway. One way or another you have to pay. In the interests of keeping it real, a standard 911 is pretty quick...relatively speaking.

The only thing it's good for on an n/a is when you swap in a 7mgte...ahhhhh, now it's good.

ARP studs are a better way to go even with the stock gasket. I'd do them at 72lbs and then heat cycle 4 or 5 times, then back them off 1/8th of a turn in reverse sequence, and bring them up to about 76 to 78lbs in sequence w/ OEM gasket (a little higher torque w/ a stopper).

Great deal. Make some decent brackets, those suck.

Hate everything but the cfx, which aren't around anymore. I'm going to have to fab one up (and not the home depot kind either), but I can't decide what kind of material to use. Fiberglass would be easiest, but my car sits low and a fiberglass lip is doomed.

Forget laquer, it yellows, it flakes, it's not particularly hard. If you use it on a steering wheel I don't think it will last for too long. What you want to do is use a high quality urethane clear coat with a hardner. Guarantee you it will look much better, and it will last a lot longer...

How big of a wheel is needed to clear the rotors and calipers?

4 and 5 point seat belts don't work on the street. Picture yourself trying back-up strapped to the seat in a 4/5 point. You can't turn your body to look through the rear window...no bueno.

Hard tops are pretty rare. Nice MkIII's are even rarer. I think a lot of the MkIII owners here on Supramania are under the impression that most MkIII's look like ours (the owners of clean examples). Not true my friends, the really/mostly straight cars are the vast minority from what I have...