Recent content by 57Bonus

I didn't know there's a plastic retainer just below the coilpacks. My old 87 only had the 3 retainers that are attached to the spark plug valley cover and were in pretty bad shape. It's most likely my retaining caps were original. They are (faded) black and two or three couldn't stay in place...

Yeah, turn down the fpr to oem spec of 33-40psi (no vacuum). Pretty sure the engine will run with ISCV unplugged but not that well since ecu uses ISCV to control engine speed. I recently sold my spare ISCV to another Supra owner to fix their broken ISCV - their engine didn't run quite right...

Checking your grounds is a good idea. Especially, check the grounds connected to your intake manifold. And your fuel pressure regulator is not showing over 40psi?

TSRM does not indicate that the oem crank bolt as a non-reusable part, so if it's in good condition with no stripped threads, it's reusable IMO. I re-used my old oem crank bolt when I replaced my timing belt.

FWIW, my NA-T ran fine without the heater and ground wires connected. I ran my engine without heater and ground for about a week or so before converting to a heated O2 sensor.

The OEM spring does seem to keep it's tension for a longer time than the driftmotion spring, this is what I gather from reading other folk's experience from Supra and 7M engine facebook groups. I honestly do not have experience with the driftmotion spring or using shims/spacers. Oil pressure...

Since the oem oil pump line is known to be restrictive, I would upgrade that line whether turbo or NA. On the braided hose, there seems to be differing thoughts on whether it's good to go inside the engine. I installed the hardline from Arizona Performance on my NA before going turbo and...

From the 7mgte wiring diagram, there looks to be two wires coming from the CSI switch to ecu. A green wire connected to pin STJ and a black w/blue stripe wire to pin STA. Looking at the 7mgte wiring diagram, the black w/red stripe wire connects to ISCV which then goes to pins ISC1, ISC2, ISC3...

Haltech 2500 is a better fit for the 7m, IMO. You can ask Haltech what would work best for your what you're running and plans for it. When I contacted Haltech a few months back for a standalone, they recommended their R3 plus a crank trigger kit.

Looks like two bolts holding the front bushing retainer plate and one long bushing bolt. I have an 87 and didn't have any issues removing the nuts and bolts although, I did a daily soak of PB blaster on the nuts for a week before I removed my rear subframe. Looking at the floor pan and back...

I usually check my fuel injectors for flow pattern and make sure they aren't plugged up by using a kit that cycles the injector while spraying carb cleaner thru it's inlet. Unfortunately, you have to remove the injectors to use this method. There's also an on-vehicle inspection per TSRM:

Did you check the fuel injectors? And make sure all your intercooler hoses are in good shape, not loose/leaking. Last time I had a no start was due to a split intercooler hose. Oh, and when checking/adjusting your timing, did you install a jumper to pins Te1 and E1?

I'm not aware that the Metris van rotors can be used without spacers for the calipers and would be interested if that is the case. As an option, Power Stop makes R350 330mm drilled and slotted rotors to fit the front MB BBK conversion. You still run spacers but really not a bad setup. The...

You have to run at least a 17" wheel size. And the wheel face has to be concave enough to clear the caliper otherwise you'll be using spacers to get the clearance. Some example of wheels with a concave face would be Wedssport TC-105, SA-67R, Volk TE-37 & CE-28. Some folks have mentioned that...

Front wheels should fit without fender rolling. Although can't say for sure about the rear wheels. For reference, I'm running 275/35R18 in the rear but on 18x10+35 and had to roll my fenders for clearance.