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Thread: Matt's cylinder head rebuild - Finished

  1. #11
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    Default Re: Preparing for cylinder head rebuild - Advice?

    Don't forget the valve clearances. Toyota uses shims in buckets, there are no adjusting these except by putting a different shim thickness in. They can be a pita to mess with so make sure the machine shop has experience on this. If you do it yourself you will need a micrometer and a tool to remove the shims. And try not to mix them up.

  2. #12
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    Default Re: Matt's cylinder head rebuild - Update w/ new question

    So I thought I'd update everyone on how it's going (and I changed the thread title to be more current). I couldn't work on the car for a number of days, but I finally did today and was able to get the head off successfully! Tomorrow it goes to the machine shop so they can do their thing. I will also be changing out the front main oil seal and water pump as well as cleaning up as many parts as I can so it's fresh when I start reassembly.

    I do have 2 questions though. First, is it unusual to have this much oil in the intake (see photo) before a head rebuild? Should I be on the lookout for something else before I put it all back together?

    Supra Head Rebuild 02-2017 small (1).jpg

    Second, I found this little rubber piece in one of the spark plug holes. I'm not sure if it fell off of something or what. Does anyone happen to recognize what it goes to (if anything)?

    Supra Head Rebuild 02-2017 small (2).jpgSupra Head Rebuild 02-2017 small (3).jpg

  3. #13
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    Default Re: Matt's cylinder head rebuild - Update w/ new question

    Alot of that dirt if from the EGR valve allowing those dirty exhaust gases back into the intake. My intake manifolds from my old JDM motor look like new on the inside as they did not run a EGR valve.

    That second picture looks like it may be a dust cap for the throttle body adjustment screw or even looks kinda like the dust cover that goes on the rear rotor where the hub is but I don't think it is that.
    2004 Lexus GS300 - daily diver
    1987 Toyota Supra Turbo - burgundy exterior w/gray interior the summer driver.
    1987 Toyota Supra Turbo - parted put
    1987 Toyota Supra N/A - Sold

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    http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81005


  4. #14
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    Default Re: Matt's cylinder head rebuild - Update w/ new question

    Time for another update - Need your opinion.

    I got the head back from the machine shop today. All the valves came out fine according to the machinist, but...his opinion is that the camshaft journals have too much abnormal wear to safely reuse them. Now I did search a bunch and read that some scoring is normal on the camshaft journals because of the soft material that is used. The problem is I have no way of knowing what is normal and what isn't. Also, most of those threads are so old that any pictures that were linked have long since disappeared; so nothing to reference. Here are the photos of the Exhaust Camshaft journals. I have more of the intake side and of the camshaft caps, but it's late and I don't have time to upload them right now.

    After looking at them, what is your initial impression?

    Unfortunately, I do not have a micrometer to measure the journal diameter to see if it is in spec or not.

    If they are junk, then what? The exhaust camshaft has been discontinued and I couldn't find it anywhere online. The intake is available for around $150 or so. OR do I bite the bullet and upgrade to stage 2 Brian Crower cams?

    As always, your feedback is most appreciated.

    Exhaust Cam Journals 1 and 2


    Exhaust Cam Journal 2 Close Up


    Exhaust Cam Journals 4 and 3


    Exhaust Cam Journals 6 and 5


    Exhaust Cam Journal 7

  5. #15
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    Default Re: Matt's cylinder head rebuild - Update w/ new question

    Those cams just by looking at them look very good. I have seen people install oem ones in worst condition and scored lot more than that.
    2004 Lexus GS300 - daily diver
    1987 Toyota Supra Turbo - burgundy exterior w/gray interior the summer driver.
    1987 Toyota Supra Turbo - parted put
    1987 Toyota Supra N/A - Sold

    Some Pictures.
    http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81005


  6. #16
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    Default Re: Matt's cylinder head rebuild - Update w/ new question

    Those cams look fantastic. I have used some cams in a 7m that looked absolutely god awful. I'm talking rust covered journals with a surface as smooth as sandpaper. I threw them in (old 7MGE I had) and checked them after a few thousand miles. They were pristine looking.

    I don't know what it takes for the cam journals to cause problems, functionally, but I've never had problems and I've run some gnarly looking cams. Yours look great.

  7. #17
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    Default Re: Matt's cylinder head rebuild - Update w/ new question

    Yeah the machinist was concerned about the edges of the journals and the fine scoring on a couple of them. You can just feel them with a fingernail. Admittedly he said he does not work on overhead cam engines very often; mostly V8s. I was able to borrow a micrometer from one of the service techs here at work (I work for a Honda dealer BTW). Assuming I was using and reading it correctly, all of the cam journal measurements fell within the specs listed in the TSRM. Unfortunately I didn't have time to measure the lobes, but they look good anyway. Here is what I recorded:

    So far the consensus seems to indicate that I can move forward and start putting this thing back together. If anyone disagrees I'd love for them to weigh in.

    Intake Journals
    #1 - 1.0613
    #2 - 1.0595
    #3 - 1.0586
    #4 - 1.0586
    #5 - 1.0599
    #6 - 1.0598
    #7 - 1.0591

    Exhaust Journals
    #1 - 1.0612
    #2 - 1.0591
    #3 - 1.0595
    #4 - 1.0596
    #5 - 1.0597
    #6 - 1.0597
    #7 - 1.0599

    I also need some clarification on something. In the TSRM on page EM-55 it states to oil the seal and install it to the camshaft. Then it goes through the steps to install the camshaft and tighten down the caps. Then on page EM-56 is says to use a SST to drive in a new camshaft oil seal. So are there 2 seals for each camshaft or are they referring to the same seal?

    Using this link: http://www.turboninjas.com/mk3supra/...Mechanical.pdf
    Last edited by slowerisfaster; February 19th, 2017 at 10:32 AM. Reason: Additional Question

  8. #18
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    Default Re: Matt's cylinder head rebuild - Update w/ new question

    On the seals you only have one front seal for each cam (total of two). Both ways you have described you can do either way as it is referring to the same seal but it is just a tab bit easier when the cam has the seal on it and you drop it in with the install of the cam to head.


    On a side note: once you install all the cam caps on the cams and right before you put the valve covers on you need to use some sealant on the front corners of the cam caps where the valve cover gasket meets (4 spots total) too.
    2004 Lexus GS300 - daily diver
    1987 Toyota Supra Turbo - burgundy exterior w/gray interior the summer driver.
    1987 Toyota Supra Turbo - parted put
    1987 Toyota Supra N/A - Sold

    Some Pictures.
    http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81005


  9. #19
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    Default Re: Matt's cylinder head rebuild - Update w/ new question

    Quote Originally Posted by plaaya69 View Post
    On the seals you only have one front seal for each cam (total of two). Both ways you have described you can do either way as it is referring to the same seal but it is just a tab bit easier when the cam has the seal on it and you drop it in with the install of the cam to head.


    On a side note: once you install all the cam caps on the cams and right before you put the valve covers on you need to use some sealant on the front corners of the cam caps where the valve cover gasket meets (4 spots total) too.
    That's what I thought on the cam seals. It just read weird in the tsrm.

    I actually changed the valve cover gaskets once before and I remember putting the FIPG where you described. Never hurts to have a reminder though.

  10. #20
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    Default Re: Matt's cylinder head rebuild - Finished

    I'd like to let everyone know that I have finished getting the head back on the car and it is once again on the road. Thank you to everyone who replied. I can say this is a pretty big project for someone who has not done something like this before and my advice to anyone in a similar situation is to plan ahead as much as possible and make sure to allot yourself plenty of time to complete it.

    I've driven the car about a 100 miles so far. I'm going to change out the oil tomorrow and drain the water from the radiator and block in order to put actual coolant in.

    I do have a small issue and once again if anyone can help me on where to start looking for a solution, I would appreciate it. The idle on the car seems a little lumpy to me, especially with the A/C off. The RPM gauge doesn't really move at all and stays right at 700 rpm. Its more of a seat of the pants kind of a feel; a sort of wobble like to might feel if you had a big V8. The car idled smooth before rebuilding the head. I have triple checked the timing and it is bang on at 10 degrees BTDC. Throughout the rest of the RPM range everything feels fine. With the A/C on the RPM goes to 900-1000 like it should and then you can just barely feel it.

    I also have one more problem that DID exist before rebuilding the head and I wonder if the two issues are linked together. When the car is up to normal temperature and then shut down for approximately 20 minutes or so I'll try to start it and the car really struggles to idle and will stall if I don't give it a little gas. After 10 or 15 seconds everything goes back to normal. Now I did find a post about this, but the solution to that guy's problem had to do with his cam position sensor which I don't have as I am N/A.

    So what do you think? Separate problems or related? Where should I start diagnosing? Feel free to ask follow up questions.

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