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Thread: Need help!

  1. #1
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    Default Need help!

    So.... I have an issue.... While I was replacing my battery cables I didn't see that the cables got twisted up in the wire loom I had in place.... Needless to say I ended up connecting the cables incorrectly (I know I know I feel dumb about it already) but it was only for like 2 seconds or so (Enough time to blow off the chassis ground. So the issues I have is that my AF ratio is pretty jacked up now.... Normal driving I get 13.9-14.2 now i'm getting 16.8-17.2.... under boost 12.3 now it's 13.9 (At 5 psi).

    She runs pretty rough at first start up but gets smooth after it warms up and I am getting ZERO codes. I had an issue at first as it with voltage from the alternator (I was only getting about 12.03 volts), but that issue has been solved with a new 1992 SC300 110amp alt. The battery tested good (Red top) and I had ZERO popped fuses (Even the main) as it started up right away after I fixed the cables. I also changed the spark plugs out and changed the air filter (Which have NOTHING to do with my problem haha).

    My next step is to check on the TPS, O2 sensor and MAP sensor voltage out put to see it that would do it.

    On a side note I have a Greddy Emanage Blue installed and the battery was disconnected for about a week.... what is the chances that the Emanage needs to be reset and retuned?

    I really need help as I'm not getting any codes! Please and Thanks!

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Need help!

    Electrical troubleshooting is far from my specialty, but is it possible you fried a sensor or something inside the ECU, or possibly in the harness itself? Electrical gremlins big and small alike can cause nasty headaches... I'd suggest testing your sensors to start with, and go from there, unless someone has a better suggestion.

    Good luck!
    -Brad
    1948 Chevrolet Fleetmaster, 1987 Supra Hardtop, 1989 Supra Targa, 1993 LS400, 1999 Miata
    Fast cars, loud guitars, a lot of hard work, patience, and crazy ideas. Yup, that about sums up my life.

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  3. #3
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    Default Re: Need help!

    Still need help!

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Need help!

    I would try your ecu in a known good car. When I grounded out my alternator I damaged my ecu, and my fuel map was all over the place as well. Good luck!
    JZZ31 drift car build in progress. MK3 owner for 12 years, single 1jz swap in 2005 448 rwhp on pump gas.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Need help!

    I checked and I don't have any 1J owners near me in Panama City, I just ran codes and got these:
    31 AFM
    41 TPS

    I'm going to try and change the TPS

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Need help!

    I think based on your info getting a map sensor is also wise. Here is how I calibrated my tps after confirming it worked as per tsrm. At least you have codes to go after now, always nice to get some solid info out of a car. FWIW I drove about an hour to test my ecu. After spending ~16 hours trouble shooting, even with a drive I think it might be worthwhile If the tps and map sensor do not fix your issue. Hang in there.

    http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...ting-Procedure
    JZZ31 drift car build in progress. MK3 owner for 12 years, single 1jz swap in 2005 448 rwhp on pump gas.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Need help!

    Just changed the TPS.... still got code 41. Thanks for the info / help.


    How can I test my MAP? When I unplug it my AF's drop past 10, could it be the ECU>
    Last edited by seoul4korea; January 9th, 2013 at 05:31 PM.

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Need help!

    Dang. Did you calibrate it? Have you confirmed that wires have continuity at the ecu and plug?
    JZZ31 drift car build in progress. MK3 owner for 12 years, single 1jz swap in 2005 448 rwhp on pump gas.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Need help!

    Quote Originally Posted by scottiedawg66 View Post
    Dang. Did you calibrate it? Have you confirmed that wires have continuity at the ecu and plug?
    Not yet, I don't have a garage and it's dark out (Florida), when I get home tomorrow I will do all of the above.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Need help!

    MAP and TPS shares one thing in common..... they are +5v sensors along with

    Check Pin 3 and your MAP for +5v, and sufficient GND on pin 1...Pin 2 is the Signal wire back to the ECU...it varies from almost 0V to 4,5V depending on Vacuum/pressure. When engine is not running you should read something around 2,5V on the signal wire. (key needs to be in the run-position though)


    If your +5v feed voltage is NOT 5v... then thats your problem.
    IF the Signal voltage has a non-logical value, then thats your problem (fucked map really).

    But usually sensors are very robust things in therms of shortage.... The ECU on the other hand is a much more sensitive.
    Not to mention the AFR-gauge.... Friend of mine did what you did, and his Innovate LC-1 Died because of it. Needed to buy a completely new unit.

    Always calibrate your AFR frequently.

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