Powered by Team Mondor
Page 3 of 14 FirstFirst 123456713 ... LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 133

Thread: DIY: R-12 to R-134a Conversion (How To)

  1. #21
    Supramania Regular
    JDMMA70's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    2,538

    Default Re: DIY: R-12 to R-134a Conversion (How To)

    Quote Originally Posted by tlo86 View Post
    for the love of god please try to keep any moisture out of the system it does take time for it to eat away at your system, i have heard 100 stories of 'well i converted it now it doesnt work (year later)' or 'i just replaced the schrader valve'... on and on.. i would have a shop evac the system after the work just in case. why do all of that for nothing :P

    if you are getting a new compressor or performing any work you might as well replace the orifice tube/expansion valve and receiver drier... these are cheap parts to replace... about 15$ each. most warranties require the work and at least some proof of a shop performing the work.
    Im not sure if you are referring to my DIY but, I did evac the system thats what the vacuum pump is for...and i covered replacing the TXV and Drier, and even the condenser. Why pay a shop when you can do it yourself hence the sticky
    1988 Toyota Supra Turbo Auto Two-Tone Blue (21C)/Blue Interior
    Running at 85%


  2. #22
    Supramania Regular
    Kristian_Wraae's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Aarhus
    Posts
    699

    Default Re: DIY: R-12 to R-134a Conversion (How To)

    Why do you think the replacement condenser is more efficiant than the original? From the pictures it looks smaller.

  3. #23
    Supramania Regular
    JDMMA70's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    2,538

    Default Re: DIY: R-12 to R-134a Conversion (How To)

    My understanding is the stock condenser is a serpentine type. Plus the fin density is greater on the parallel flow unit which should allow for better heat transfer I would think.
    1988 Toyota Supra Turbo Auto Two-Tone Blue (21C)/Blue Interior
    Running at 85%


  4. #24
    Aliens.
    CyFi6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Phoenix
    Posts
    2,976

    Default Re: DIY: R-12 to R-134a Conversion (How To)

    Parallel flow condensers are around 25% more efficient at releasing heat than a serpentine condenser of the same size. The ACI PF condenser is very slightly smaller but makes up for it in efficiency. The PF condensers use micro channels which are much smaller than the channels in the serpentine condenser.

  5. #25

  6. #26
    Supramania Regular
    Kristian_Wraae's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Aarhus
    Posts
    699

    Default Re: DIY: R-12 to R-134a Conversion (How To)

    Which flush fluid is used to flush?

    How much ND-8 oil is in the system? I'm going to drain the entire system so it will be empty.

  7. #27
    Supramania Regular
    JDMMA70's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    2,538

    Default Re: DIY: R-12 to R-134a Conversion (How To)

    Its on my guide 1st page
    1988 Toyota Supra Turbo Auto Two-Tone Blue (21C)/Blue Interior
    Running at 85%


  8. #28
    Supramania Regular
    steven89's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    901

    Default Re: DIY: R-12 to R-134a Conversion (How To)

    Well! Finally got my car running and to the point where I can drive it around. So heres what I have to say about the conversion, or atleast what all was done to mine which im sure Derek can clarify.

    ITS COLD! Like it gets as cold if not colder than my moms Mazda 5! I had it set to 65 until it managed to cool the cabin, then after a while I started freezing it got so cold. I had to put it to 78* just to keep from freezing with it on. I was very surprised at how well it performed! Id highly recommend converting to R-134a if you don't have an already working R-12 system (or no AC at all).

    I need to find a thermometer of some kind to find out how cold it actually gets at some point. But for now, Derek (JDMMA70) is awesome!

    Thanks!
    89 3E5 Turbo Targa 3/16/07-11/27/14
    90 Black Hardtop 12/27/14

    Current Status - Swapping parts into new 90 Hardtop shell!

    "Build" Thread

  9. #29
    Supramania Regular

    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    2,598

    Default Re: DIY: R-12 to R-134a Conversion (How To)

    Could you just convert the system to R134a then take it somewhere to have it vacuumed and recharged? I plan on doing this conversion then taking it to a friend of mine who runs a shop to have him run a diagnostics on my AC system to see if I have leaks or need to change anything then recharge the system. Also is there an O ring kit that Toyota provides or do you have to get them all separately?

  10. #30
    Supramania Regular
    JDMMA70's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    2,538

    Default Re: DIY: R-12 to R-134a Conversion (How To)

    Quote Originally Posted by Doat View Post
    Could you just convert the system to R134a then take it somewhere to have it vacuumed and recharged? I plan on doing this conversion then taking it to a friend of mine who runs a shop to have him run a diagnostics on my AC system to see if I have leaks or need to change anything then recharge the system. Also is there an O ring kit that Toyota provides or do you have to get them all separately?
    You can but its not that hard to acquire the tools needed to do the vacuuming and charging process. Vacuuming the system will tell you if you have any major leaks. Minor leaks if there are any after you change all the o-rings wont show themselves until its charged. So really if you do everything correctly you shouldn't have a o-ring leak. The only place i can think of that you'd have a leak is the suction and discharge line coming from the compressor. This is too easy to have to pay someone to do it for you. Toyota doesn't sell an o-ring kit, i just ordered all the sizes i needed. Like i said you can use a green o-ring kit like the one pictured in this thread on page 2.
    1988 Toyota Supra Turbo Auto Two-Tone Blue (21C)/Blue Interior
    Running at 85%


Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •