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Thread: Your guide to drag strip success w/pics.

  1. #21
    Hiatus over.
    aye mate's Avatar
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    Default Re: Your guide to drag strip success w/pics.

    Quote Originally Posted by hawk
    can we get a chart showing top speed for each gear set for both auto and 5spd? possibly at each gear change. also using the stock sized saw blades and oem tires?
    this is the closest thing I found.
    Quote Originally Posted by shaeff
    origionally posted by OUTOFSTEP
    Quote Originally Posted by outofstep
    :

    Here is a listing of the various top speeds for the different transmissions and rear ends.

    Automatic tranny, stock size tire (225/50/16):
    3.73 rear @ 7000 rpm 4th gear = 199 mph
    3.91 rear @ 7000 rpm 4th gear = 189 mph
    4.30 rear @ 7000 rpm 4th gear = 172 mph

    Automatic tranny, common upgrade size (255/45/17)
    3.73 rear @ 7000 rpm 4th gear = 207 mph
    3.91 rear @ 7000 rpm 4th gear = 198 mph
    4.30 rear @ 7000 rpm 4th gear = 180 mph

    Manual tranny (turbo), stock size tires
    3.73 rear @ 7000 rpm 5th gear = 185 mph
    3.91 rear @ 7000 rpm 5th gear = 176 mph
    4.30 rear @ 7000 rpm 5th gear = 161 mph

    Manual tranny (turbo), upgraded size tires
    3.73 rear @ 7000 rpm 5th gear = 194 mph
    3.91 rear @ 7000 rpm 5th gear = 185 mph
    4.30 rear @ 7000 rpm 5th gear = 168 mph

    Shits n Giggles calc

    auto tranny with 245/65/18 (yes, these fit just fine)
    3.73 rear @ 7000 rpm 4th gear = 243 mph

  2. #22
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    Default Re: Your guide to drag strip success w/pics.

    Outofstep: what's your best E.T.?
    I'm not an aggressive driver, I'm just competitive.

    -My Supra

  3. #23
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    Default Re: Your guide to drag strip success w/pics.

    this takes a bit more practice, but you can prespool the turbo in your manual by holding the ebrake up (preloading the drivetrain, i think someone mentioned it). a little more wear on your clutch but its easier on the tranny itself since it eliminates the slack between gears/shock when you launch.

    also I if youre new to drag racing, you may think your reaction time is related to e.t. or 60ft and jump the gun. ITS NOT. the time doesnt start until you trip the sensor so take your time and concentrate on what your doing.

  4. #24
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    Default Re: Your guide to drag strip success w/pics.

    Quote Originally Posted by diy guy
    also I if youre new to drag racing, you may think your reaction time is related to e.t. or 60ft and jump the gun. ITS NOT. the time doesnt start until you trip the sensor so take your time and concentrate on what your doing.
    Err... this depends on what kind of racing you are doing. I've never seen a street legal style race that uses reaction time... but it's there for a reason, lots of race types do.

  5. #25
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    Default Re: Your guide to drag strip success w/pics.

    some include it in bracket racing et, but chances are you wont be doing any competitive racing your first time out

  6. #26
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    Default Re: Your guide to drag strip success w/pics.

    Optimum shift points can be calculated if you have a current dyno graph that shows horsepower numbers all the way up to redline.

    Combine this with the shift point calculator at http://www.bgsoflex.com/shifter.html and the "MKIII gear ratios" thread in the FAQ: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1084

    More general info here: http://www.allpar.com/eek/hp-vs-torque.html
    Last edited by JimR; April 16th, 2006 at 08:33 PM.

  7. #27
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    Default Re: Your guide to drag strip success w/pics.

    Optimum shift points are almost always redline. Every time you shift, you are no longer accelerating. I'll take a slight decline from peak horsepower over ZERO horepower while shifting and then subsequent respool and then eventual climb back up to peak horsepower.

    You want to maintain acceleration as long as you can, you do this by staying in gear as long as you can. The instant you disengage you begin decelerating. Keep that to a minumum by staying in gear as long as possible.


    The only times you need to calculate shift points is if you have a car that drops off just a retarded amount of horsepower before redline. Our cars don't do that even stock. If you've got any upgraded or larger turbo, you shouldnt drop off much at all before redline.
    poop

  8. #28
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    Default Re: Your guide to drag strip success w/pics.

    Wow, you can almost hit 200 in an auto?

    The (pretty much done) Rebuild
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    I f**king love you, JAV.

  9. #29
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    Default Re: Your guide to drag strip success w/pics.

    Quote Originally Posted by outofstep
    Optimum shift points are almost always redline. Every time you shift, you are no longer accelerating. I'll take a slight decline from peak horsepower over ZERO horepower while shifting and then subsequent respool and then eventual climb back up to peak horsepower.

    You want to maintain acceleration as long as you can, you do this by staying in gear as long as you can. The instant you disengage you begin decelerating. Keep that to a minumum by staying in gear as long as possible.


    The only times you need to calculate shift points is if you have a car that drops off just a retarded amount of horsepower before redline. Our cars don't do that even stock. If you've got any upgraded or larger turbo, you shouldnt drop off much at all before redline.
    commented on the sf thread, but got to argue this point, i shift at 55xxprm, why? because when i dynoed the car it was falling off so bad and i could feel it fall off that it was killing my MPH and times, now i just got a cutout so ill see how it feels but with a 3in exaust all the way back with a working cat, 8psi and intake the power fell off like a mofo

    im gonna redyno it with the cutout off, so maybe that will change the curve

    graph link: el linko

    <l><l>

  10. #30
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    Default Re: Your guide to drag strip success w/pics.

    Me and outofstep PM'd on this subject. Here are my current thoughts:

    The number of times you have to shift while going down the strip will likely remain the same, whether you shift at redline, or slightly before. If you can avoid a shift by going to redline, then by all means do this!

    However, if you cannot save a shift, then the amount of time spent with zero power (in the middle of the shift) remains constant, and so it makes sense to calculate your optimum shift points for "maxiumum power under the curve".

    For most of our cars that have been upgraded, the optimum shift point will be above redline for all gear shifts. But I maintain that it is still a good idea to get your dyno graph out and plug in the numbers.

    Jim
    Last edited by JimR; April 21st, 2006 at 11:09 AM.
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