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Thread: Removing multiplex from 7MGTE for less than $200

  1. #11
    Grease Monkey

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    Default Re: Removing multiplex from 7MGTE for less than $200

    Yeah you could move the plug wires around but some might be a little long or short, so it wouldn't look as neat.

    I'm also using the 2JZ-GE wastefire coils that sit over 3 of the plugs, so I had to wire it up as above.

  2. #12
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    Default Re: Removing multiplex from 7MGTE for less than $200

    I priced one of these ignitors through Advance Auto and new they weren't but 298.00 which still isn't bad when you consider having to spend 50.00 for an MSD tach adaptor to other ignitors.
    88 turbo GT42
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  3. #13
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    Default Re: Removing multiplex from 7MGTE for less than $200

    so your original set up post is for how you wired the 2jz ge cop plugs with COIL physical order of c1=2 & 5, c2=3 &4, c3=1&6 you wired in 7M ignitor 6 pin plug to 10 pin DH plug as follows

    coil #2 plug output to C3 pin #2 on the 10 pin ignitor DH 61 or DH 62
    coil #1 plug output to C2 pin #1
    coil #3 plug output to C1 pin #10

    this requires an ignition phasing setting coil option 1,2,3 on with both knock 1 and 2 check marked and
    ign tooth#1 is 0.5, coil 2 ign tooth is 4.5, and ign 3 tooth is 8.5 and the car runs for 2jz ge cop waste fire coils which are physically installed in the different order labeled above. the physical order being different from 7m coil pack is not something i initially picked up on and that did cause problems in ignition phasing. (car runs like crap)

    FOR 7M COIL OEM PACK which has a phisical order of c1=1&6, c2=2&5, and c3=3&4 then i can wire into the ten pin DH61 or DH62

    coil #1 plug output to C1 pin #10 on the 10 pin DH ignitor
    coil #2 plug output to C2 pin #1
    coil #3 plug output to C3 pin #2

    am i correct as
    this requires an ignition phasing coil option of 1,2,3 on with both knock 1 & 2 check marked and
    ign tooth #1 is now 4.5, coil 2 ign tooth #2 is now 8.5, and coil 3 ign tooth #3 is 0.5?

    this would make the pins all match as if stock of c1 to coil 1 etc and have the correct firing order in the aem?

    currently i have my 10 pin to 7M 6 plug and 4 plug wired as yours is (coil #2 = C3, coil #1 = C2 etc) and using the original Ignition phasing inputs and it runs like crap. i will change ignition phasing to c1 is 8.5 which you mentioned earlier and probably wire it in later as c1= coil #1 etc and change the ignition phasing inputs as required.

    what you think?
    Hal
    90T

    522+ rwhp
    Finally running again after 3 years.

  4. #14
    Grease Monkey

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    Default Re: Removing multiplex from 7MGTE for less than $200

    Too much confusion!

    Ok, for the guide I posted on the first page, The coils are as follows:

    Coil 1 = 2 and 5
    coil 2 = 3 and 4
    coil 3 = 1 and 6

    So it makes no difference if you have the stock 7M coil packs, or the JZ waste fire COP setup. You still need to wire in the way I first described, and then set coil 1 tooth = 0.5, coil 2 tooth = 4.5 and coil 3 tooth = 8.5.

    If you want to wire C1 -> coil 1, C2 -> coil 2, C3 -> coil 3, then you need to set coil 1 tooth = 4.5, coil 2 tooth = 8.5 and coil 3 tooth = 0.5.

    Dont forget to change 'spark teeth' under the cam/crank sensor options to 12!

    Frankly, If you first wired it as I described in my post and set the AEM as described, it should run. Messing around with the tooth values after that will just cause it to not run at all. Make sure you check your base timing!

    The wierd numbering order for the waste fire 2J coils only applies to the 2J wiring diagrams - building the adapter harness as described gets everything back to 'normal' for the 7M.
    Last edited by Funkycheeze; June 17th, 2011 at 10:15 AM.

  5. #15
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    Default Re: Removing multiplex from 7MGTE for less than $200

    I set mine to run off of 24 teeth. It runs fine with no issues, but a map I got from John Reed one time had it set to run off of 12 teeth. Either way will work fine, you just have to have your settings right.
    88 turbo GT42
    753 rwhp/ 589 rwtq @ 30 psi on stock internals



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  6. #16
    Grease Monkey

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    Default Re: Removing multiplex from 7MGTE for less than $200

    Yep - the ignitor numbers 4, 5 and 6 duplicate 1, 2 and 3 so you go:

    24 teeth for ign.

    tooth 1 = 0.5
    2 = 4.5
    3 = 8.5
    4 = 12.5
    5 = 16.5
    6 = 20.5

    ez!

  7. #17
    Formerly Nosechunks
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    Default Re: Removing multiplex from 7MGTE for less than $200

    Is this only for an aem? Or would this help out a stinger, or mega squirt or other standalone car aswell?

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  8. #18
    Grease Monkey

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    Default Re: Removing multiplex from 7MGTE for less than $200

    Will work with any standalone that can control a standard 3 channel igniter. In fact, I'm pretty sure the MS and/or Stinger units require a different ignition setup as they are totally unable to properly communicate with the stock multiplex igniter.

    For the MS system though, the Ford EDIS modules are best.

  9. #19
    Formerly Nosechunks
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    Default Re: Removing multiplex from 7MGTE for less than $200

    How do you know how much dwell to set it for?

  10. #20
    Grease Monkey

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    Default Re: Removing multiplex from 7MGTE for less than $200

    The DH61 igniter sets the dwell automatically based on RPM. You just need to supply it with the ignition input pulse for each channel. You may need to fiddle around with the static dwell time for the outputs of the ECU to get it to run properly - I figured it out for the AEM box.

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