The car is an '87 Supra Turbo auto with minimal mods (3" exhaust and K&N air filter, both done by the p.o.).
Car ran fine til I broke a spark plug off in the head. Decided to take it apart, basically do a HG job on it. Got it apart, cleaned and decked the head and removed the broken plug. Put everything back together (man those vacuum lines and crap are complicated). Now it won't start.
* At first I wasn't sure about the firing order, I mean which wires go to which coil plugs since my numbers on the three coils are worn off, but I found a picture in Haynes Repair Manual (section 5 page 7) and hooked the wires up like that (left to right: 1-6-3-4-2-5). I assume that is correct!?
* I also wasn't sure about the instruction on installing the CPS (Cam Position Sensor), following the instructions at the Cygnus X1 MK3 TSRM and using my PDF 1990 TSRM I think I got it right. I tried using a timing light to confirm that the timing was good, but couldn't get a consistent signal from the spark plug wires as if it weren't firing. After checking that it was firing with a screw driver near a ground (it seemed to be firing sometimes but not other times) it still would not start. It would stumble a bit but never get over 300-400rpms and would never stay running/puffing/stumbling for more than 5 secs.
Current Problem: Won't Start
* I have checked everything I can think of now and it has a new battery with a full charge and cranks great. Using the screw driver method on spark plug wire #1, it is sparking, all the coils pass the TSRM tests and so does the igniter and CPS. The TSRM didn't say anything about there being voltage to the CPS and of the 4 wires non of them had 12V with the key ON, but the CPS passed the Ohm tests which were the only ones I found in the TSRM.
Question 1: Is there supposed to be 12 Volts to any of the 4 wires going to the CPS?
I can't find any grounds that I have forgotten to hook up, but that is a possibility.
The fuel pump is working, and after loosening one of the banjo bolts and turning the key, fuel sprayed out. I don't know what my fuel pressure is, but I do have some fuel pressure in the rail.
I rented a noid lite set to test the signal at the injectors and I think this is where my problem is. I checked the voltage at each injector connector first, and at every connector BOTH wires have 12 Volts with the key ON. I thought only one would have 12 Volts and the other would go to the ECU which grounds that wire and causes the injector to fire.
Question 2: Is there supposed to be power at the injector connectors with the key ON, at one wire or both?
The noid lites don't light up and I am pretty sure I am using the right one (it was a set of 6 and I am using the one labeled Bosch EFI). From what I understand if the wiring to the injectors is trying to fire the injector, the noid lite would be lighting up (either flashing or constantly lit up). It is not lit up at all, and I have tried 3 different injector connectors (#1, 5, 6).
Question 3: What can cause everything except the injectors to work? Why would the injectors not fire?
I have checked all the fuses I can find and they all seem good. Is there maybe a relay that could be out?
When I first start to crank I hear one, or sometimes two pops like a fire/combustion, but then nothing else, just cranking. Is it possible that this is a tiny bit of fuel from the cold start injector that combusts, but then there is no more fuel?
Thanks for any help you can give me, I am stumped.
*Is it possible the ECU got fried? Can I test the injector ground operation at the ECU? E10, E20 and E30 or something like that.
* Why would there by 12 Volts at BOTH of the injector connector terminals?
* Where does the ECU get its RPM signal from? The CPS?
* If it is sparking, does that mean the CPS is working? Is that what tells the ECU to fire the injectors, or does it get that signal from somewhere else?
* Could this still be a timing issue if the CPS is installed incorrectly (it seems like it would be backfiring or running rough if the timing was just off - I have moved the CPS without removing it to see if changing the timing had any effect and it did not have any effect).
PS: I also thought about running the diagnostics, but since the battery has been disconnected it does not have any saved faults. When I put the wire in the diag plug and followed the instructions, the check engine light just stayed lit up, it did not flash constantly or with a code or anything. The diag did make the fuel pump come on though.