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Thread: 5 years in the making 2JZ GE-T START-UP VID @ POST 34

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    Cool 5 years in the making 2JZ GE-T START-UP VID @ POST 34

    So I am finally starting a build thread..... I finally think I am doing something worthy of one now

    And to follow the crowd with the build thread layout, I'll start with my back story (que Dr. Doofenshmirtz flashback)

    It all started when I was in the middle of by Volkswagen obsession (hence "veedubin") I was working on my 3rd full blown build of a MKII Jetta when things went south. As with my other built VW's this one ended in a wreck. Only problem was this one was wrecked by just pulling it out of the shop (being pulled by an F150, the driver in the jetta turned the steering wheel and ran into a Ford Tuarus) So I had made up my mind, building VW's was not a legitimate venture for me. The cool thing was that happened right around tax time So I started scouring the newspapers and back alleys in search of my next car. I had always wanted a Supra, but always thought they were out of my price range.
    I stumbled upon a black 87T 5spd in the local paper. Price was listed at $1200, so I called. The current owner was car-illiterate to say the least, and the Supra showed that very well. I myself was Supra illeterate and went nuts over it right away. So without much hesitation I went home and started talking (negotiating) with my wife. After a couple of days went by, I was driving to go pick up my new 87T

    I picked it up in February, and the roads were still covered with patches of snow, ice, salt, and the likes. That was great considering the back tires on the Supra were bald... After sliding sideways through the gas station parking lot, I finally figured out how to adjust the seat in the car and was able to drive it like the dorky white guy I am (seat sitting in the upright position, no gangsta lean for me... lol)

    So got it home and started pulling down the little alley behind my house so that I could park it in the driveway. I hit the brakes and the back end locked up and started sliding. I ended up in a snowbank in my driveway. After a while of trying to free the car, I got fed up and mashed the gas in reverse. That lasted about 15 seconds until the temp gauge went full hot..... Yup BHG on day one LOL. Wastegate hose from turbo had split and yea, it was over from there.

    So another $600 later and 3 days of the car tying up a lift at work, it was back on the road and running.

    To wrap this story up in a nutshell, me and the Supra didn't get off to a good start. My wife really wasn't happy with the events either.
    As a funny side story, my wife never saw the car until I brought it home. Her first words "you said you were buying a japanese sports car! The hood on that thing is as big as my Taurus!!" Still get a laugh about that every now and then.

    So after driving the car for a few months started hearing a knock in the bottom end.... yup RK. pulled the bottom end apart, mic'd everything, new bearings, and some other maintenance things. went to start it up and it sounded great.... for about 2 minutes. After 2 minutes, we all heard a mild "crack" then it sounded like a rod went through the block....

    So yanked the subframe again and dropped the pan. Turned out that one of the bolts for the rod cap actually broke! and inturn caused the other to bend and distort, and yea, no more motor...

    Car sat in my backyard while I was lazily putting a new 7M back together. Due to finances and time and all the fun stuff of life, that motor never got finished. The car sat for almost 3 years un-touched. The time came up that we needed a second car on the road and it was decided it was cheapr to get a new motor for the Supra than it was to buy another car.

    Picked up a JDM 7MGTE and did that swap in my backyard in the middle of December 2009. Nothing more than a ceramic heater and an easy up 10'x10' canopy. (I'm currently repairing my repairs that were made during that swap )

    That motor ran great until may of 2011. During an "accident avoidance" manuever, ie whipping the back end out to avoid an idiot that blew a stop sign, the #3 rod bearing decided it didn't like the position it was in and went for a spin.

    Pulled the pan and assesed the damage, slapped a new set of bearings in knowing it wasn't going to hold together for long. Sure enough i didn't even make it out of my driveway before it started knocking again.

    Car then sat again.......
    After cruising SM for a while, I started seeing the 2JZGE-T swaps.....
    So I found a 2JGE in Philly for $400 - bought it and brought it to the shop (now I have a shop I can work out of, no more pup tents and space heaters lol.)
    Pulled the motor apart and started to do a full rebuild, then another set back came up and was forced to halt everything. The idea of giving up on the Supra became a serious thought. So I put the FS ad up on here. Tried to sell everything toyota that I had. Couple of interested candidate, but nothing ever settled - Thank God.

    About 6 weeks ago, my wife and I started talking Supra again.... (BTW if you haven't been able to tell yet, my wife is awesome. Not only does she support this stupid car, she has been known to say things like "if the factory one is broke, why not jsut get a better one"

    So that brings us up to today.... The 2J has been rebuilt and is on the stand awaiting to be transplanted. I am still missing a few little things that are being sourced as we speak.

    My final goal for this build is not huge HP numbers, or a dyno queen. I'm looking for a reliable car with some extra "umph" should the need arise for it.
    I am looking to put down some were around 325-350 RWHP - this should be easily obtainable on the setup I have. I am also doing this build on a very tight budget. By using parts I already have, or searching for the absolute best deals on parts I need. I have also been taking pictures of every stage of this build and especially pictures of the cool little "tricks" I've come up with, so that it may be of some use to any one else looking to do this swap. I will also be putting together a spreadsheet of all parts I have purchased, where they came from, and the cost; I may also add a colum for shipping too. This sheet will also be a help to those looking to do this.

    I am missing a few pictures though as there was a gap in time between the tear down of the 2J until I started putting it back together. It's all the basic stuff anyways...

    I am posting specific pictures in this thread, but the enitre album (350+ pictures and the motor isn't even in yet) can be viewed by clicking here


    So for a run down on this setup:
    2JZ GE-T in an 87T 5Spd
    Using 7M GTE electronics
    R154
    Will be using the CT26 on the 2J requires a custom manifold that I am currently building. I will be using a log style maifold, to keep in the same styleing of the 7M cast mani - please don't start a huge debate over this. I have made up my mind, and the cost of doing it this way is cheaper than a T4 setup from eBay (while the T4 may be a future upgrade, I'm not doing it now)
    Stock 2J TT head gasket with factory bolts.
    rebuilt bottom end with factory parts, all bearings mic'd and verified.
    head was cleaned, valves hand lapped and had it surfaced to ensure a good seal.
    All parts of the engine were cleaned and refinished in some capacity, either cleaned and painted, or just cleaned and left as is.

    The shop:

    Didn't know my wife's camera had the panorama thing.....

    The 2J was hauled in the back of my minivan LOL After the van caught on fire a few times from a cracked exhaust manifold (rear of course) it was traded for the Passat wagon....


    Oil pan being tapped for 3/4 NPT after drilling:


    Finished oil drain - used 3/4 NPT bushing and a -10 JIC fitting from the local hardware store - cost about $4.00 total


    Tapping the oil union bolt for an oil feed line and broke the tap....


    No fear got it out and proceded to make revision one of the oil feed supply for the turbo:


    By the way, found a really inexpensive and effective way to tumble clean small parts like nuts and bolts:


    Use a washer fuild jug and cut as shown. Drill a few holes in the cap to act as a strainer
    Use half gallon tea jug to spray some brake parts cleaner and some Gunk brand engine degreaser (the original or gel stuff works the best)
    Place small parts in jusg with solution and shake. Let sit for a few minutes and shake some more. This yeilded very good results for very cheap.


    Bottom end with parts going back onto it after bearing install and paint:


    More bottom end:


    Cylinder head being dismantled for cleaning:


    During cleaning:


    Intake mani after paint and sitting around the dusty shop for a few days:


    Valve covers after paint and sitting:


    Head after a lot of elbow grease:


    Thank you previous owner for mysteriously doing this to the PS reserviour... this was after wire wheeling the 3" of JB weld off of it...


    Head back from machine shop - surfaced and throwm in their dishwasher for a while:



    Started putting the rest of the engine together - some peices are just mocked on.




    1J Bell house and DM swap brackets:


    New rims :


    Engine during assembly:


    Taking the car to the shop to start ripping it apart:


    Don't let the door hit you on the way out....


    Tucked into her new home while undergoing open heart surgery:


    Ok, now on to some of the "trick" stuffs:

    The 2JGE water outlet has a flat spot "boss" if you will cast into it. So it looked ideal for my autometer water temp sender...




    Also on the bottom of that water outlet is a hose nipple (used originally for the throttle body coolant passage) I used some 1/4" steel brake line to fabricate a tube that wraps around the back of the bolck to the other side. This will be used for coolant supply to the CT26:

    Also in this picture is the 2nd revision of oil supply line/sender install.
    The supply line to the turbo (oil) is a -4 line using a 45 degree fitting. The block is tapped for 1/8" NPT for the factory 2J oil pressure sender. Using a 1/8" NPT to -4 JIC fitting i was able to connect the oil supply line directly to the block and wrap it up over the valve covers undet the timing cover for a clean look.
    You can also see the end of the collant supply line here:



    The final oil pressure setup is this:

    drilling and tapping the union bolt for 1/8" NPT used a 90 fdegree "street" elbow and a tee fitting (2 female one male 1/8" NPT) total cost for the parts $2.75

    Tried many, many variations of using the factory plug wires and having the coils (stock 7MGTE) mounted at the rear ove the valve covers. Nothing worked. So I picked up a set of Accel DIY 8mm plug wires. Bought the black to stay as clean as possible.


    The finished product is able to retain both timing and rear center covers

    The final look of the finished wire harness engine side ( firewall side will be finished after engine gets put in.)






    Decided to vinyl wrap the top timing cover - what do you guys think?


    Finished result up till now:




    The mailman and the Fedex guy both dilivered presents yesterday:
    Kinugawa CT26 softline oil kit eBay less than $30 shipped - also came with the gasket and 2 new bolts (don't use the bolts, they are way too soft)




    Earls AN to metric adapter fittings for fuel system. These are a bit tricky to find, at least it was for me. They are -6 to M12 x 1.25 Earls part number 991945ERL


    I have a total of three of these - One for each end of the fuel rail rail and one for the former banjo bolt junction that is attached to the D/S motor mount.
    That will allow me to eliminate the factory restrictive banjo fittings. I am still waiting on my -6 line fittings to come in and will post pics of the fuel feed line when it's done. The banjo union I am referring to:


    And as of now the car sits with the 7M block and head still in it, the 2J still on the stand, and me on the couch at home after badly dislocating my left knee yesterday; I watched my foot stay straight ahead and my upper leg and knee cap turned 90 degrees. As I fell down, it was popped into place again.
    So I am waiting for the pain and swelling to go down so that I can get back and work on this swap...

    Again, the pictures above are only a few that I have taken. I try to take pictures of every little thing and document the whole build. Click here for a link to my facebook gallery of the build (some pics are different from the photobucket gallery) or here for the photobucket gallery.

    Thoughts and comments are welcome, but I am not posting this to start the JZ/M battle

    I will be posting more as the build goes on. you know when I can walk again...
    Last edited by veedubin; May 27th, 2012 at 04:43 PM.





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    I demand you to keep this build going as I will add it the JZ thread I wrote, not sure if that thread was a help to you in your case.

    The JZ blocks oil pressure unit are 1/8BSPT. There is a difference from NPT but a lot of people still put a 1/8NPT in there. Don't remove the fitting from the block as it could leak. I have seen this happen already.

    Keep the updates coming. Good Job.

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    Default Re: 5 years in the making 2JZ GE-T

    Quote Originally Posted by IBoughtASupra View Post
    I demand you to keep this build going as I will add it the JZ thread I wrote, not sure if that thread was a help to you in your case.

    The JZ blocks oil pressure unit are 1/8BSPT. There is a difference from NPT but a lot of people still put a 1/8NPT in there. Don't remove the fitting from the block as it could leak. I have seen this happen already.

    Keep the updates coming. Good Job.
    Not a problem on keeping this build going - I'm getting to anxious to drive it again. LOL

    As for the oil fittings, I did find out that the block was the british pipe thread.... I used some loctite paste (don't remember which one, but claimed to be super oil resistant and able to seal anything) before installing it. Also used it on the 7M pressure sender when I installed that into the tee fitting.

    Also, I do apologize, I overlooked your thread completely as the title stated GTE, and that isn't me... I am looking through it now, and am realizing that there is a lot of good info even for someone doing a non-turbo JZ swap... Might want to change the thread title.





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    Title will get changed when I gather my GE info. Who says I'm not updating that thread, just had Hvyman update it last night.

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    Default Re: 5 years in the making 2JZ GE-T

    Quote Originally Posted by IBoughtASupra View Post
    Title will get changed when I gather my GE info. Who says I'm not updating that thread, just had Hvyman update it last night.
    Gotchya.... What GE info are you looking for? As you can see I have complete access to the motor if you need specs or anything like that.





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    No specs, those things I know. Just gathering info on wiring and info on turboing it. It's going to take a while to gather as I have class now. If you have good links on wiring, PM them and I will go through it and take what's correct. It's actually really simple to run this motor off 7M-GTE electronics.

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    Default Re: 5 years in the making 2JZ GE-T

    Quote Originally Posted by IBoughtASupra View Post
    No specs, those things I know. Just gathering info on wiring and info on turboing it. It's going to take a while to gather as I have class now. If you have good links on wiring, PM them and I will go through it and take what's correct. It's actually really simple to run this motor off 7M-GTE electronics.
    After looking through other GE-T builds, running it on 7M GTE electronics is the best way to go, as the ECU already knows how to compensate for boost. I thought of using the GE ECU, but between the extra wiring headdache, and the lack of boost support, it didn't seem like a good route for me. All the wiring info was taken from dok33's thread





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    Default Re: 5 years in the making 2JZ GE-T

    Looks like good progress.
    What kind of wheels did you get?
    My Over-budget, Over-deadline build: http://www.supramania.com/forums/sho...-come!-Stage-1... It now runs!

    NA-GTE swap, Megan EZ Street coilovers, ST swaybars, custom endlinks, Energy Suspension bushings, 18x9/18x10 FR500's, MAFT Pro in speed density, Denso direct-fit 680cc injectors on a brand new oem harness, Aeromotive Stealth pump, Driftmotion IC/ hardpipe setup, Kamainari whaletail, 3in. Magnaflow/Borla exhaust, chromoly flywheel, Spec 2+ clutch, aluminum driveshaft, Wiseco pistons, Cunningham rods, full flow oil cooling setup, Cometic 2mm HG, ATI super damper, ARP head, rod, main and flywheel fasteners, HKS style exhaust manifold, Precision 6266 CEA turbo, DG500 COP setup, GTmat sound deadening, new carpet. Coming soon: New leather, new sound, new paint.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: 5 years in the making 2JZ GE-T

    Quote Originally Posted by supraguy@aol View Post
    Looks like good progress.
    What kind of wheels did you get?
    Thanks! Wheels are staggered and deep dish replicas of Mustang Cobra wheels. 17x9 +24 245/40 front and 17x10.5 +20 275/40 rear





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    Default Re: 5 years in the making 2JZ GE-T

    specs on wheels?

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