What motor oil should I use in my 7MGTE? (I ask after reading all sticky threads)

[Suprapowaz!(2)]

Where does it say in the manual that a 10W-40 is recommended? It shows what's allowed, but there are no recommendations for a specific weight oil. If you want to use 20 year old info and extrapolate to a modern oil, have at it. Ignorance is indeed bliss

Me? I'm going to base my opinion on specs and hard facts.

Well, I don't have my original manual. Only going by what TSRM has printed. I just read Motor Oil 101, and it makes perfect sense. You're right though.... ignorance is bliss.

[jdub]

Using a 10W-40 is not necessarily bad - like JJ said, you can fret over this stuff to an extreme - any Grp IV or V oil will work fine. Even the advanced Grp III hydrocracked oils (Pennzoil Platinum, Castrol Edge, Mobil I, etc) will do just fine as well - hydrocracked base stocks have advanced to the point where there is little difference compared to Grp IV and V. What torques me is that companies are allow to call a Grp III a synthetic and sell as such - that's marketing BS, pure and simple.

FYI: By definition, a Grp IV is PAO based - a Grp V is all other synthetics, what you see are the ester based oils. Grp V is far less common due to the expense in making it - Redline is the most common, a Grp V ester based oil.

If a motor has a lot of miles, a 10W-40 just might be what you want to use - a 5W-40 would be a better choice IMO for the reduced cold start viscosity. One thing to also keep in mind is the manual and TRSM lists oils that were available at the time - the 0W and 5W multigrades were a rare bird back then.

I'm glad you got my point - making an informed choice is far better than listening to opinion

[Suprapowaz!(2)]

I'm glad you got my point - making an informed choice is far better than listening to opinion

And knowing is half the battle.

[CyFi6]

What torques me is that companies are allow to call a Grp III a synthetic and sell as such - that's marketing BS, pure and simple.

But does it really matter? If you are willing to pay ex. 6 dollars a quart for a quality oil, what difference does it make where it came from? Are you paying for the process or are you paying for the final product? All I personally care about in the end is that it is a good quality product. Perhaps if they raised the price of group IV/V oils rather than lower the price of group III oils, it would make us feel better?

[VegaSupra]

So although San Diego is no Phoenix, we still see temps north of 100 every summer, and rarely see below 45F at any time of year. I have never checked into Amsoil's prices, but I don't particularly feel the need to lay down my money for a companies percevied image value when another company has a similar quality product for less bread.

I'll probably go for GC. So should I run 5W-30 or 10W-30 or does it not even matter? I'd reckon that I could stick with one weight year round, given the reasonably smallish temp ranges that I see in San Diego.

Thanks for your help everyone, and thanks for all the good info jdub.

[VegaSupra]

I am looking for German Castrol and it looks like my local Autozone carries it. But I only see 0w30. Is that the only variety it comes in?

Also, it's named "Castrol Syntec" right? Sorry if these seem like super noob questions. I just want to make sure I get the right oil. If 0w30 is the only option, is that what I should run my 68K mile Supra with in San Diego?

thx

[CyFi6]

Ya 0w30 is the only variety of German Castrol fully synthetic, just make sure it says "Made in Germany" on the back. Because even a 0wXX oil is "too thick" when cold, a 0wXX will always be a better choice than a 5wXX 10wXX 20wXX etc. even in the hottest of weather.

[jdub]

I am looking for German Castrol and it looks like my local Autozone carries it. But I only see 0w30. Is that the only variety it comes in?

Also, it's named "Castrol Syntec" right? Sorry if these seem like super noob questions. I just want to make sure I get the right oil. If 0w30 is the only option, is that what I should run my 68K mile Supra with in San Diego?

thx

GC is labeled "Syntec" - it should also say "European Formula" on the front. As mentioned, it comes only in a 0W-30 and (most important) says "Made in Germany" on the back.

[suprastroker88]

I live in the East Bay area of nothern california. I just put about 2000miles on my fresh motor and I want to go synthetic. Redline and GC are the most common in the stores around me. I was looking more towards Redline. Is one better than the other?

I have NPR pistons, Clevites, AZ performance pump pipe, and a shimmed oil pump. What weight Redline or GC should I use?

[jdub]

I live in the East Bay area of nothern california. I just put about 2000miles on my fresh motor and I want to go synthetic. Redline and GC are the most common in the stores around me. I was looking more towards Redline. Is one better than the other?

I have NPR pistons, Clevites, AZ performance pump pipe, and a shimmed oil pump. What weight Redline or GC should I use?

Re- read this thread. Then read Motor Oil 101 in my sig.