Starting build #2 , I WANT 500 RWHP...

**87turbosupra** · September 10th, 2010, 10:12 PM

So have some updates. I had a machine shop custom machine a larger coolant banjo bolt for the back of the cylinder head
that broke and they tapped the threads larger in the head, it came out perfect. I just ordered some goodies.
- .020 over CP forged pistons
- Eagle rods
- Fidanza light weight flywheel
- stage 3 Spec clutch
- Clevitte bearings
- Torque plate ( really sucked getting this, but I live in CO and nobody has one)
Still deciding on which turbo, Billet Precision 6265 or 6765.

**87turbosupra** · September 19th, 2010, 11:51 PM

So I'm working on the transmission while I wait for engine parts to arrive. Here's some tear down pics of the tranny. Does anyone know of a rebuild kit for the r154, I couldn't find a site for mdc motor sports anymore.

Here's a good shot of one worn out synchro.

***Nick M*** · September 20th, 2010, 12:18 AM

For those that haven't seen it before or are otherwise unfamiliar....

The brass ring has pointed ends, where you see his are worn down. That is the grinding in the transmission when you grind it. The syncro part is the underside which is threaded to match the speeds. The pointed teeth worn down on the top are the clutching teeth that hold the transmission in gear. When they are worn, the trans will pop out of gear.

**87turbosupra** · September 20th, 2010, 06:23 PM

Sorry, just realized I posted this thread in the wrong area, how do I move this to the "Builds" thread.

**IJ.** · September 20th, 2010, 07:00 PM

Originally Posted by 87turbosupra

Sorry, just realized I posted this thread in the wrong area, how do I move this to the "Builds" thread.

You can't

**87turbosupra** · November 11th, 2010, 10:09 PM

Have some update pictures. Finally got the parts I ordered and sent them to the machine shop.
I had the cylinders bored .020 over, decked the block, new oil pump drive shaft bearings, all new
freeze plugs, crankshaft grinded and balanced, cylinder head milled, new valve stem seals and
complete valve job. Now I'm ready to assemble the engine. Next will be the drift motion 67mm
turbo kit.

**j3r3my** · November 11th, 2010, 11:01 PM

builds looking nice but you should touch the rods to much they'll get surface rust from the acids/oils from your skin,just a heads up for ya!

**IBoughtASupra** · November 12th, 2010, 12:06 PM

Did you balance the rods and pistons? Just incase you don't know, do not use the oil pan gasket that came with the kit, use Toyota FIPG since it is the best silicone I have used.

**BlackDevilSupra** · November 12th, 2010, 06:58 PM

Originally Posted by 87turbosupra

..... So far I have lex afm, 550's, safc 2, AFPR, walbro, profec-b. I really want to reach 500rwhp and have piece of mind the engine will hold up.

Your ambitions deserve a renaissance. Time to truly rethink the traditional piggyback system, and consider a standalone that will in almost all instance give you that "piece of mind".
I know I have.
Some will argue that you don't need one, but I'm old enough to remember computing technology (286, and 386) in the '80 and early 90's. The OEM computer is from that era and it performs as expected. So immediately, it's at a detriment to modern ECU's, and even the latter to it's gen' such as the JZ's.

**87turbosupra** · November 12th, 2010, 07:26 PM

They are brand new CP pistons and eagle rods. I didn't think they needed balancing, they are supposedly balanced
within 1 gram of each otherand yeah that cork oil pan gasket is going in the trash I learned that the first time
I resealed the oil pan.

---------- Post added at 09:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:21 PM ----------

Yeah I'm definitely not staying with the SAFC 2 anymore. Haven't decided which standalone to go with, AEM or Stinger.
I plan on getting rid of the MAF setup for a MAP sensor. $$$$$$$$$$$$$