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  • Changing oil pump shaft bearings! -Easy -Pics

    Well replacing the oil pump shaft bearings was the last step in my rebuild before assembly, and I was kind of at a loss with how to easily change them and make sure they went in perfectly strait as well as make sure the oil hole is lined up. If you don't do either of these two things you will have major problems, so MAKE SURE you get them strait and line up the oil hole, just like any cam bearing would be.

    All you will need is a set of new bearings
    Napa PN: ATM2C3302000

    I prefer the Napa bearings for the price, and they are TaiHo, which is Toyotas manufacturer. They are about $9.00 and it comes with both.

    You also need an old oil pump drive shaft that you arent going to use anymore, you will be pounding on it so you arent going to want to put it back into service.
    You first need to use a socket or similar item to drive the FRONT (larger) bearing out, drive only this one out, this part is key.
    Make sure the block is clean and dry on the journal and the bearing shell is clean and dry.

    Make a line up and down the new bearing, inline with the oil hole so you know exactly where it is, now mark the block where the oil hole is. Now take your new front bearing, and slide it over your old pump shaft until it slides over the journal slightly and hits the mounting bracket. Slide the whole assembly into the block, putting the rear journal of the shaft into the rear old bearing. This will keep everything strait. Line up your oil hole marks, and now you can drive the new bearing in. Since the shaft is two pieces, and the metal bracket can be pressed off, you need to drive on the inner surface of the pressed on section, if you smash the center of the shaft it will pop right out. Heres an example, i used a socket.

    Now you can hammer on the socket and drive the bearing in, if you have a press, even better. After you drive it all the way down, you might notice the shaft fits very tight. I found that the bearing, after being inserted, was slightly out of round, so i used a scuffing pad to even out the inside of the bearing so my clearance was right where it needed to be... .001"-.003"(rotating the tight fitting shaft in the bearing left a shiney spot, so i knew where to remove material.)
    After that, drive out the lower bearing. This is the part where you need to take the shaft apart. I took a hammer to the metal bracket a couple times and it popped the upper ring right off. This is so you can insert the shafte lower into the block, you will see why here..

    Do the same thing with the oil holes for the lower bearing so they are lined up, make sure all surfaces are clean and dry. slide the new bearing over the lower journal until it contacts the gear part. This is where you will drive it in. Insert the whole unit into the block, align your hole and drive the lower bearing in. The best part about all this is you are using the upper bearing to ensure the lower one is strait, and visa versa.. You will likely have to remove material from the lower one as well. If you find the bearing to be perfectly round, but too tight, i recommend taking material off the shaft instead of the bearing.


    I was initially worried that maybe i wouldn't be able to get the bearings in 100% all the way, and that the gear would burr the edge of the rear bearing, but there was no such thing, no marks were left on the bearing at all. I hope this can help people, because i was about to take my whole block to a machine shop just to have those bearings installed.
    Be sure to clean your block very well after this, as you can see in the pictures, it left a good amount of metal behind, you do NOT want this going into your brand new motor.
    Comments 2 Comments
    1. Ozz89supra's Avatar
      Ozz89supra -
      Says I do not have permission to view.....
    1. 92nsx's Avatar
      92nsx -
      Quote Originally Posted by Ozz89supra View Post
      Says I do not have permission to view.....
      +1 Yep the link you posted = FAIL.
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