Oil pump shimming

[ChrisC]

Ive searched around but have come up with any info on shimming oil pumps on 7mgte's. Is this a worth while mod to do and what all is involved in doing it? My crank bearings are to arrive on friday so id like to figure it out before then. Any info or pointers on this would be great.

Thanks,
Chris

[Warpath]

Ive searched around but have come up with any info on shimming oil pumps on 7mgte's. Is this a worth while mod to do and what all is involved in doing it? My crank bearings are to arrive on friday so id like to figure it out before then. Any info or pointers on this would be great.

Thanks,
Chris

Here some info.

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27974&highlight=Oil+pump+shims

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58305&highlight=Oil+pump+shims

Hope it helps.
Jim

[Mk3runner]

Its worth the 30 min of parts run and install.

[JDMMA70]

anything to help improve the oiling system is worthwhile imo

[ChrisC]

Awesome, thanks for the info warpath. 5mm shims here I come** :)
IMO the second link you posted should be a sticky

[jdub]

^^^ Didn't stick it, but did move to the oil section so it will be easier to find.

[aye mate]

I remember seeing pictures of exactly where to put the shims. Does anyone have pictures or can someone post them? I just started with my motor swap and I've been out of the game for a little bit.

[Mk3runner]

There's a nut/ bolt thing at the base of pump. It's spring loaded. Shims go in front of spring.

[ChrisC]

There's a nut/ bolt thing at the base of pump. It's spring loaded. Shims go in front of spring.

So between the nut/bolt and the spring or between base of the pump and spring? Just to clarify.

[Mk3runner]

I assume you have it out. See the bolt deal, if you got the right washers, they should sit perfect inside the bolt. Then spring then tighten down. Make sense?

[ChrisC]

I assume you have it out. See the bolt deal, if you got the right washers, they should sit perfect inside the bolt. Then spring then tighten down. Make sense?

No, I dont have it apart yet. I figured thats where the shim should be placed. Just wanted to clarify before I get to it. Its nice to start and finish a job quick and efficiently. Thanks for the pointers btw :)

[Mk3runner]

Sure thing. Post pics on progress.

[Warpath]

Here is a pic where the washers go.

http://www.supramania.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1817&d=1125099609

[SuPrADr1Ft786]

Is this a good thing to do even on the N/A's??? I'm doin a HG job on my brothers supra so while everythings out I might as well do it. Will it lower the life on the oil pump???

[ChrisC]

Is this a good thing to do even on the N/A's??? I'm doin a HG job on my brothers supra so while everythings out I might as well do it. Will it lower the life on the oil pump???

Cant see why you couldnt on a NA. If your oil pressure was lower then spec shimming it to retain factory pressure would be good. It is logical that making the pump push more pressure could shorten its life, but its really only such a minimal amount. The pump would still outlast the life of the engine anyways in most cases.

[SuPrADr1Ft786]

Thank u

[ChrisC]

I took some pics of shimming the pump. Pics are pretty straight forward and self explanitory. The shims I used were (3) 6mm washer I believe. They measured out to about 4.86mm and fit perfectly inside the spring retainer bolt. One thing to be careful of is not to bend the pick up or outlet tube when undoing and retightening the 3 bolts.

1
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b157/suzuki_mx499/DSC02152.jpg

2
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b157/suzuki_mx499/DSC02153.jpg

3
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b157/suzuki_mx499/DSC02154.jpg

4
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b157/suzuki_mx499/DSC02155.jpg

5
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b157/suzuki_mx499/DSC02172.jpg

6
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b157/suzuki_mx499/DSC02173.jpg

7
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b157/suzuki_mx499/DSC02174.jpg

8
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b157/suzuki_mx499/DSC02175.jpg

[Mk3runner]

Your post needs a sticky!

[ChrisC]

It would sure stop people like me asking about previously answered questions ;)

[Warpath]

While you got your pump out and shimmed. Get an Arizona performance oil supply line kit to help with that increased flow.

-Jim

[shaeff]

Here is a pic where the washers go.

http://www.supramania.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1817&d=1125099609

That pic looks familiar. ;)

I did a small writeup a few years back:

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=43847&postcount=1

[jdub]

It would sure stop people like me asking about previously answered questions ;)

No it won't...a lot of people don't read the stickies and are search "challenged" ;)

[Warpath]

That pic looks familiar. ;)

I did a small writeup a few years back:

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=43847&postcount=1

LOL, yup I used your write up to shim my pump. I saved the pic link but not the write up. Awesome write up fo sho!!!

-Jim

[ChrisC]

No it won't...a lot of people don't read the stickies and are search "challenged" ;)

haha no kidding lots are search "challenged"

[nsngarage]

on the topic of shimming the pump, it's definitely worth the time and effort to get some more oil pressure to our poor starved motors :P

[IJ.]

haha no kidding lots are "challenged"

Fixed that for ya Chris ;)

[Adjuster]

I agree on the AZ supply line. It removes the banjo bolt/fitting setup, and improves flow.

For the shim, I used a 10mm nut. (It works fine, and since it's just one thing, it's slightly less difficult to keep track of while you are doing this job. Also, it's about 5mm thick, slightly more if I had to guess.)

If you look at this oil system, any higher pressure at the pump is going to be lost as soon as the main galley is reached. (On my system, the oil filter and cooler is in the middle, but after those, the pressure at the engine is going to be released via the squirter nozzles.)

On the stock setup, the oil pressure will be lost at the stock oil cooler bypass. (Another place to shim if you are using that part still. IIRC, it opens up at 40psi, just like the stock oil pump spring, and you are basicy bypassing oil pressure to the cooler, and then dumping that cooled oil into the pan.)

My setup has no bypass oil cooler anymore. Is shimmed with a 10mm nut and two thin washers, so it's about completely closed off at the pump. (Start up cold oil pressure is very high.)
But when it's warmed up, I'm happy to see 10psi per 1000 rpm or slightly better. There are plenty of places for the oil in this motor to bleed pressure off into. (Squirter nozzles, main/rod bearings and cam saddles/caps.)

[james_9876]

are there any writeups for shimming the oil cooler? can you shim it with the motor in the car? gotta pull oil pan?

need to know plz! pullin oil pan this weekend.