View Full Version : What kind of mk3 should I get?
skanimal
02-19-2009, 07:56 PM
Alright I have a dual VVT-i 2jz-gte from a 99 mk4 that I want to swap into an mk3. I've been looking around on craigslist and what not and I've found a few that I'm interested in. I just thought I'd ask for some advice on what I should look for in an mk3 to make the swap go as smoothly as possible as far as having to modify the least amount of things on the car.
suprahero
02-19-2009, 08:53 PM
Everything you need to know can be found on this page here in the "Stickies".
Good luck.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=30
Wills7MGTE
02-19-2009, 09:09 PM
Well I've heard the VVTI 2jz is a pain to swap as well as tune or modify, the extra 10hp stock to me isnt worth the extra dough to put it in and ultimately it will cause problems later if you wanna do cams and stuff.
tissimo
02-19-2009, 11:20 PM
Well I've heard the VVTI 2jz is a pain to swap as well as tune or modify, the extra 10hp stock to me isnt worth the extra dough to put it in and ultimately it will cause problems later if you wanna do cams and stuff.
I think it'd be worth it.
as for the car. Find the cleanest one possible to start out with. Dont bother with a 'project' car, they're just a pain in the ass and almost as expensive in the end.
skanimal
02-21-2009, 02:24 PM
I think it'd be worth it.
as for the car. Find the cleanest one possible to start out with. Dont bother with a 'project' car, they're just a pain in the ass and almost as expensive in the end.
hmmm... care to specify a bit more on that? I was was also wondering whether it would matter whether I got a turbo or an n/a. anyone else?
soapra
02-21-2009, 03:02 PM
Well I've heard the VVTI 2jz is a pain to swap as well as tune or modify, the extra 10hp stock to me isnt worth the extra dough to put it in and ultimately it will cause problems later if you wanna do cams and stuff.
I have done plenty of VVTi cars and the power difference is not much, but having full torque by 2300 RPM sounds much better to me. Cams is not an issue and tuning is as easy as any other VVT engine. VVTi setup right can spool big turbos faster then any non VVTi 2jz with head work. I've heard so much bad stuff about VVTi that is funny! HKS makes a full lineup of cam setups for it and cam controllers. All new versions of the Fcon V pro can control the VVTi with the help of Valcon pro. US tuning is just starting to get on to it wile the Japanese have been making power on it for years!
BTW VVTi rods on the 2jzgte are the same as non VVTi, nothing is weaker about that engine internally.
As far as a good mk3 to get, low miles, unmolested and 90 to 92 year. Targa is best, hartop is to soft frame wise and the cars are not getting any newer.
S.A. supra
02-25-2009, 01:17 AM
Damn Nice alltrac:naughty: Its hard enogh to find one, but you have two very nice tissimo
shaeff
02-26-2009, 08:03 PM
First I've ever heard about "soft hardtop frames" ::moebaker::
tbcmorris
02-26-2009, 08:38 PM
Last I checked the targa were the ones with structual rigidity problems.
Get a turbo or a sprt na modfel to benefit from staring having a LSD
The very best low mileage minimum number of owners and unmolested car you can find.
First I've ever heard about "soft hardtop frames" ::moebaker::
I don't see how it is possible for the hardtop to have less rigidity than the targas. Anyone care to elaborate on this?
tbcmorris
02-26-2009, 08:51 PM
He is most likely refering to the fact that targas do have extra bracing ....but its not enough the hard top is still more rigid
tissimo
02-26-2009, 09:36 PM
He is most likely refering to the fact that targas do have extra bracing ....but its not enough the hard top is still more rigid
+1.. That guy must be on crack.
TurboFreak
02-26-2009, 10:09 PM
EDIT: Nvr/mnd
skanimal
02-27-2009, 03:10 PM
:biglaugh:well I just got my new 89 mk3. It is a targa top (not because I thought it would more structurally rigid but because it's just nice to have) and I've decided to keep the 7m in it for a while. There'll be plenty of time to tear it apart later haha :biglaugh:
supramk3speed
03-04-2009, 05:33 AM
Yeah, i would just run the 7m. The hardtop is lighter but the targas looks cool. Im really pondering a swap after breaking 2 7m's.
tlo86
03-04-2009, 08:40 AM
Yeah, i would just run the 7m. The hardtop is lighter but the targas looks cool. Im really pondering a swap after breaking 2 7m's.
a jz is no miracle cure. my 7m's never broke :)
Dylan JZ
03-04-2009, 03:20 PM
a jz is no miracle cure. my 7m's never broke :)
aha ahahaha.. :squint:
SupraFreak13
03-05-2009, 09:58 AM
hmmm... care to specify a bit more on that? I was was also wondering whether it would matter whether I got a turbo or an n/a. anyone else?
You don't say if your new MK3 is a turbo or not, but I would think a turbo model would be better suited for a turbo swap.
As far as a good mk3 to get, low miles, unmolested and 90 to 92 year. Targa is best, hartop is to soft frame wise and the cars are not getting any newer.
From my experience the targas have more chassis flex. I had an 87 turbo hard top, and I just got an 88 NA targa. With the targa top out I can feel the difference in handling, but my 87 turbo had swaybars/shocks/springs and my 88 is stock suspension, so that may make my opinion slightly biased :icon_bigg
foreverpsycotic
03-05-2009, 11:17 AM
I would go with a NA/auto/HT in the best condition I could find, pre 89 if at all possible (with a 89+ taillight swap). Then I would send the harnesses to Dr. Tweak for him to make it PnP, get some BIC mounts, megan coilovers and a full exhaust (twins back). Tune it with an AFC-NEO (IIRC they can control the vvti). Swap the motor in, switching the tailhousing on the auto to the MKIII a340 one if at all possible, and end up with a DAMN fast stock twin car. I personally would leave it BPU with cams, 3->4" dp and a 4" catback, AFC, 550-620cc injectors, denso pump and a larger stall.
I haven't thought about this at all :sarcasm:
supramk3speed
03-07-2009, 09:36 AM
Well my 7M broke after about 200 miles the first time, lol. I had a mazda rx-7 that i rodded waaaaayyyyy harder and it never broke, i would burn a quart of oil a week. My second motor i babied considering, and the headgasket gave after less then 500 miles and it was on 6 to 7 pounds! Don't get me wrong i respect the 7m but i hate having to worry about if i floor it i could blow a headgasket, especially since i plan on drag racing it. Of course there are precautions you can take,but i don't want to worry about if my head was machined good enough for a mhg. Money is no big deal to me, i have patience to take a few years on it.
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