Liquid to air intercooler. ebay brand? i got a few questions

[sportinct26]

so i was looking on ebay for an intercooler and i ran into this liquid to air intercooler.

seems preaty cheap. i know IJ has this set up but i dont think his was ebay brand


PRICE IS $70 plus shipping

liquid to air INTERCOOLER (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Liquid-Water-to-Air-Intercooler-3-HUGE-Drag-1000HP_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a543Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem260323331046QQitemZ260323331046QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories )

seem that its rather cheap.

anybody else used ebay liquid to air IC?



and i was looking at this. liquid to air INTERCOOLER (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Universal-Liquid-to-Air-Intercooler-Water-Long-Flow-T20_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a543Q7c66Q3a4Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a0Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a200QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem190270464038QQitemZ190270464038QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories )


would it flow 450whp?

i will be using an upgraded ct26.

and from my understanding i only need a "radiator"/ heat transfer and a pump to run this setup right?

any drawbacks?

[Pantaloon007]

Alot of guys use them in MR2's mainly because of the limited space and mid-engine config, not because theyre so much better. If you think about it, there's a helluva lot more to go wrong with one and you still need the water coil in the place of your current IC. The pressure drop is about the same- the air still has to fight through coils to get to the IC outlet. The first link looks like one that youd see in an MR2's engine bay.

just my $.02

[IJ.]

2nd link is just the Barrel, you need to add a radiator a fill neck and a pump and fan for it to be effective.

[sportinct26]

i would think it would be better on stop and go. ive had big IC that would heat soak badly on a 95 deg weather. and IJ i was wondering if the second would support 450whp? im looking for stealth look. IJ would ic get heat soak if it were to be mounted inside the engine bay ? or does it have to be outside like yours?

[IJ.]

Better to keep it isolated.

The kit I have here will easily support 450 I swapped it out when I got over 500 and you're correct it's so much better than A2A for stop start.

If you want it PM me and we'll discuss a price as I'm not going to use it again.

[gotsomegetsome]

i use this setup on my supra. i have the stock turbo though
its been great for me so far, and the radiator and water pump is what you will be spending more of your money.

but, i have an extra intercooler, same size youre looking at if you would like to grab it
i'll give you a better deal than on ebay if you will take it. I originally got it for a different setup i had but then i couldnt do that, so i had to buy a different one.

i guess, email me at sscrews@scu.edu

[sportinct26]

i use this setup on my supra. i have the stock turbo though
its been great for me so far, and the radiator and water pump is what you will be spending more of your money.

but, i have an extra intercooler, same size youre looking at if you would like to grab it
i'll give you a better deal than on ebay if you will take it. I originally got it for a different setup i had but then i couldnt do that, so i had to buy a different one.

i guess, email me at sscrews@scu.edu

email sent

[dumbo]

there called 'aftercoolers' and i would stay away if i were you.

even in school they told us there less effientied then intercoolers, except for stationary generators. when your not getting the rushing air from moving. even big heavy equipment are going to air-air intercooler. but thats IMO

[IJ.]

You're thinking of the inbuilt W2A Heat exchangers on stationary engines that are part of the intake.

A proper W2A IC system is active cooling so doesn't suffer the heatsoak of an A2A IC in low speed situations so for the real world they're actually better just heavier and more complex.

[hottscennessey]

There is no way an A2A IC is better than a properly executed W2A IC

[sportinct26]

You're thinking of the inbuilt W2A Heat exchangers on stationary engines that are part of the intake.

A proper W2A IC system is active cooling so doesn't suffer the heatsoak of an A2A IC in low speed situations so for the real world they're actually better just heavier and more complex.


There is no way an A2A IC is better than a properly executed W2A IC


does it ever get to a point where the liquid gets hot? after all it is constantly passing IC to cool down the hot air and combined with hot temps outside.

and what liquid would best work for this set up? i was thinking coolant/water/water wetter?

[IJ.]

It's active ie: Pump and Fan so it "should" be able to keep close to ambient in mid power pulls and will rise then recover in high hp pulls as long as the system has enough capacity.

I used the same coolant mix as the engine in mine Toyota Red and Distilled water 50/50.

[sportinct26]

It's active ie: Pump and Fan so it "should" be able to keep close to ambient in mid power pulls and will rise then recover in high hp pulls as long as the system has enough capacity.

I used the same coolant mix as the engine in mine Toyota Red and Distilled water 50/50.

wait so the pump "pumps" faster under higher rpm?

[IJ.]

I had my pump and fan boost activated.
<ninja edit> I lied they were intake temp activated ;)

[sportinct26]

I had my pump and fan boost activated.

how did you do that? where did you connect it?

i was under the impression that this setup is basically all on its own besides the power lines.

[IJ.]

I ran it through the MoTeC, you could do it using a simple hobbs switch on the intake and that will give you some adjustment.

There's no reason to run the pump and fan all the time as the coolant will thermosyphon through the system at light loads and keep the intake temps at near ambient at cruise depending on where the radiator is mounted.

Mine was #1 in the airstream.

[sportinct26]

I ran it through the MoTeC, you could do it using a simple hobbs switch on the intake and that will give you some adjustment.

There's no reason to run the pump and fan all the time as the coolant will thermosyphon through the system at light loads and keep the intake temps at near ambient at cruise depending on where the radiator is mounted.

Mine was #1 in the airstream.

wait so i put it directly on the intake manifold? or could it be mounted on IC piping after the intercooler?

to double check a hobbs switch is one that is pressured control switch right? and boost adjustable? how much psi can the hobbs switch handle?

[IJ.]

It can go anywhere that see's + pressure.

They usually have a small range of adjustment +-4 psi usually and you select a start pressure ie: 10 psi.

They will take a few 100 Psi (http://content.honeywell.com/sensing/hss/hobbscorp/catswitch.asp) so that's a non issue.

[dumbo]

You're thinking of the inbuilt W2A Heat exchangers on stationary engines that are part of the intake.

A proper W2A IC system is active cooling so doesn't suffer the heatsoak of an A2A IC in low speed situations so for the real world they're actually better just heavier and more complex.

right on, i suppose in theory that it makes sence, but you'd figure the coolant would eventually warm up but again in theory i suppose it would cool too. ne ways... i'm done

[IJ.]

Read "active"

it's not a passive system like A2A that relys on car speed.

[dumbo]

Read "active"

it's not a passive system like A2A that relys on car speed.

i know but doesn't the coolant then have to cooled by the air??

[IJ.]

A well designed system has a fan on the IC Radiator hence "active"

[dumbo]

A well designed system has a fan on the IC Radiator hence "active"

yah i know, it may be better but it seems like a lot of extra work. not wanting to argue here,

[IJ.]

By all means if you have a constructive arguement put it forward but if you've read and comprehended my posts I don't think you do other than weight and complexity which I already mentioned.

[gotsomegetsome]

im currently about to finish my A2W setup so hopefully it goes well

cost me a good 400 just on the intercooler and radiator! oh well..



maybe it will do be good in the long run

[frontierguy25]

I live here in TX and drive my car daily in TX heat and TX traffic and I seem to do Just fine with my A2A IC. I do have a koyo rad and good clutch fan with it as well. It doesn't get hot even driving for hours. But good luck with your setup.

[sportinct26]

I live here in TX and drive my car daily in TX heat and TX traffic and I seem to do Just fine with my A2A IC. I do have a koyo rad and good clutch fan with it as well. It doesn't get hot even driving for hours. But good luck with your setup.

really? doesnt the car feel sluggish a bit?

i had a 57 trim turbo(not a ct26) not to long ago and set boost at 18psi. it feels like a different car when its normal temp out than when its hot out.

when its hot out its just not pulling as hard.

on a stockish boost maybe it wont make much of a difference?

[sportinct26]

By all means if you have a constructive arguement put it forward but if you've read and comprehended my posts I don't think you do other than weight and complexity which I already mentioned.

what do you mean by complexity? it seems simple to me. maybe im missing something. i mean its the relative the same.

piping from turbo >IC>piping to throttle body. BOV in bitween.

^^ the same.

except now theres a cooler. so its

heat exchanger > pump>ic>heat exchanger

^^right?

and wiring for a the fan and pump and controlled via hobbs switch?

i mean its a bit more work but i think the gain of not heat soaking is well worth the "extra" bit of work.

next question is how much weight difference?

i plan on installing this inside the engine bay and make some sort of cage to isolate it. i wanted it inside for shorter plumbing.

I read that shorter plumbing reduce lag? how true is that statement? would it be notisable?

BTW this is not for a supra set up. this will go on a 260z with a 7m.

[IJ.]

I live here in TX and drive my car daily in TX heat and TX traffic and I seem to do Just fine with my A2A IC. I do have a koyo rad and good clutch fan with it as well. It doesn't get hot even driving for hours. But good luck with your setup.
W2A will keep the charge temps at close to ambient in traffic the A2A DOE heatsoak like a bitch I have IC In/Out temp sensors and have logged this in the MoTeC, while the temp rise doesn't have a big effect get on/off boost a few times and management HAS to pull power to compensate (if your ecu is advanced enough that is)


what do you mean by complexity? it seems simple to me. I read that shorter plumbing reduce lag? how true is that statement? would it be notisable?

A2A NO electricity NO Water NO Moving parts so W2A is far more complex.

Perceived Lag is usually other factors, I went from 2.5" pipes to 3" and noticed a drop in lag on a 3540r, as for shorter pipes you need to look at the gas speed through the system it's usually quite high and an extra foor of pipe isn't going to make a difference BUT having the IC in the engine bay IS making it less efficient as it's starting from a higher temp state.