My 2jzge-t swap

[juhanis]

well, here's my little swap thread. my car is a 1990 turbo. the engine that was in there was obviously a 7mgte. i'm tired of eating engines, and i love the car, so, my best option is to swap in the 2jz. here's my price list so far...

$500 - jdm 2jzge long block (w/ ~30k miles)
$317 - jza70 (1jz) bellhousing
$100 - jza70 engine brackets
$150 - ebay manifold
$80 - ebay 50mm wastegate
$270 - 1jz flywheel
$80 - urethane engine mounts
$50 - odds and ends
$50 - 2jz alternator, and water pump pulley
free - 2jz clutch fan
$25 2jz serpentine belt w/o ac
$~7 pilot bearing
$30 arp 1jz flywheel bolts
$50 2jz rear sump upper and lower pans and pickup.

more to come...

here are some pics of the engine when i first got it.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/IMG00133.jpg

everyone has one of these for their 2jz project. haha
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/IMG00135.jpg

nothing but the finest bolts to hold my engine to the stand.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/IMG00131.jpg

here's my egr block off bolt.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/IMG00144.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/IMG00159.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/IMG00158.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/IMG00163.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/IMG00162.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/IMG00166.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/IMG00171.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/IMG00170.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/IMG00175.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/IMG00168.jpg

one last pic of the car its going into.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/history.jpg

that should be enough pics for you to see for now. there will be more soon, the engine should be going in the car this weekend. then i will be fabricating the intercooler piping, i also need to do many modifications to my exhaust to make this swap work. my car had a front facing intake before, so, i need to go back to the other style.

[jmcboost]

Looks Great!! You may have posted it, but what turbo is that?

[juhanis]

i didnt post it, the turbo is a garrett t04e 57trim. all else i really know about it is the hotside is a .58 ar, and its a twin scroll design. it was part of a hks kit for a 7m.

[10secdream]

Swap looks good man. Keep us posted

[tsuper92]

you might want to have the wastegate flange clocked different.the dump will be going into the frame.i had that problem with my old 1j mani.look's like you have the wrong oil pan in the pic's.where are you pulling the oil feed for the turbo?
so far looking good.i see a 2jzge-t swap in my future.car look's good,equip's=sex

ironman was a great movie:)

[suprahero]

Engine is looking good, and I love love love the picture of the white supra with the Work Equips..........(wipes drool)

[juhanis]

if that's the wrong pan that sucks for me... from what i can find so far it should be okay. we'll see i guess unless someone wants to tell me for sure. just to be clear i'm running jza70 engine brackets. my car is a 90. if someone knows first hand, please chime in. by the way, thanks for the kind words =)

[10secdream]

What sort of exhaust discharge is on that turbo?

[suprastanger507mgte]

Looking good Juhanis. Nice work..and I knwo your frustrations on those blown 7ms...I've seen what you did to them lol.
Is this motor out of a Lexus sc300? if it is, then you are okay with the pan. (mid or rear sumps works fine).
Hope you get it done by the thanksgiving meet...see ya then.
Moe

[juhanis]

Looking good Juhanis. Nice work..and I knwo your frustrations on those blown 7ms...I've seen what you did to them lol.
Is this motor out of a Lexus sc300? if it is, then you are okay with the pan. (mid or rear sumps works fine).
Hope you get it done by the thanksgiving meet...see ya then.
Moe

hehe moe, you're all over these forums! thanks for following my progress, i should just ask you directly, you know much more about this stuff than i do. i just dont want to bother you with all my noob questions :icon_lol: i do know for sure that thing is a mid sump, however, i've seen known pictures of mid sumps and it doesnt look like the ones i've seen. but this thing is like in the dead center of the oil pan. i've seen a font sump, and its not that for sure, and i've seen rear sump, and its not that either. i just got my bellhousing yesterday so, i'm off to get a fan and fan clutch, and a flywheel. and then i'm done for the most part collecting parts. (i do still need the belt. haha) i was told that engine was from a mk4 supra, but i dont really have a way of telling. the engine does say "toyota 3000" on the front, but that can be from any other inline 6 toyota too. it had these really tall engine mount brackets before. oh well, all i know is that damn sump is in the middle for sure, i had to flip it upsidedown to tap that pan. what i am happy about, is that the engine looks like its the low mileage jdm 2jz karlo told me it was, so i'm happy. oh well, to the parts runner (the evo 8 i'm borrowing. hahaha)


tsuper92: i'm planning to use the stock oil pressure gauge for my oil supply to the turbo. my oil filter relocation plate has a port on it already going to an autometer oil pressure gauge in my car. so, the stocker can go.

[suprastanger507mgte]

lol..yeah man. That pan will work for sure. Mid and rear ones do. I have the mid one just like you... :)

[tsuper92]

i was actually thinking your motor was a usdm motor because of the egr.i wasn't sure any of the jdm stuff had egr.good new's about the pan,figured it was worth mentioning.

[tissimo]

What sort of exhaust discharge is on that turbo?

Looks very similar to a greddy t78

[juhanis]

10secdream: sorry, i didn't see that question. its off an hks sportkit for a 7m. so, i'm assuming its the standard flange for that kit.

i'm so happy about the oil pan! god... that would have sucked real bad. but now i'm having a lot of trouble getting a 2jzge flywheel. the one i was supposed to get was cracked. and no wreckers in this area have one. but i did get a fan and fan clutch for free =) so, that's a score. the belt and pilot bearing and flywheel are all i need. i can almost hear the 2jz purring in my garage.

[dinhnerz]

From your list you got a 1jz bell housing. So you're probably going to go with a R154. Why would you need a W58 flywheel?

Quick question, looks like you've removed the distributor. What are you going to use? Looks like of interesting, could you explain that to me?

Looks like you're almost there.

[Grimsta]

From your list you got a 1jz bell housing. So you're probably going to go with a R154. Why would you need a W58 flywheel?

Quick question, looks like you've removed the distributor. What are you going to use? Looks like of interesting, could you explain that to me?

Looks like you're almost there.
LOL he's not getting a W58 flywheel, he's getting a 2JZGE flywheel. Flywheel is relative to the engine its bolted onto, not the transmission.
But wont a GTE fw fit on the GE?
Sweet stuff man, I have a 2JZ NA-T that I got underway here for my own car as well. Just need to get around to building it. Do you have all the supporting electronics for your engine? And why not use the TT intake mani? That way you can use a better larger FMIC and use less piping

[suprastanger507mgte]

From your list you got a 1jz bell housing. So you're probably going to go with a R154. Why would you need a W58 flywheel?

Quick question, looks like you've removed the distributor. What are you going to use? Looks like of interesting, could you explain that to me?

Looks like you're almost there.

He is running this engine with the 7mgte electronics. Common route for this swap. The 2jzge distributor was replaced with the 7mgte CPS - very minimal work needed to make it fit.

Juhanis, If its the serpantine belt you need, can you give me the length for it? I know I have one but there was a size difference between my 3 swaps ... so not sure if this will work for you or not. IF can get a correct length, I will check with mine and you can pick it up.
Moe

[kabanimk3supra]

someone correct me of I'm wrong, but he needs the 1jz flywheel. not the 2jzge. you can use that one, but you'll need to modify it.

[juhanis]

yeah i'm going to use the 2jzge flywheel. i was planning to re drill it for the r154 pressure plate. then i was going to do run the w58 pilot bearing. i also got an ls400 fan. so, the list is shrinking.

[juhanis]

a little update. so, my original plan of using a modified 2jzge flywheel i dont think is going to work. the flywheel is impossible to get here locally, which is retarded. so, i'll have to get one from driftmotion or something. and if i do that, i might as well just get the stock 1jz flywheel so i dont have to make any modifications. also, the oil filter relocation kit doesnt fit. so i'll run the stock oil filter housing, and i'll tee off the stock oil pressure sender port on the side of the block to feed the turbo. i already have a stainless line to go over to that area from the turbo. other than that... i just have to modify the downpipe/exhaust, i'll snap some pics of that process when i start doing it, which should be tomorrow at the latest. well, that's about it for now. hopefully this thing starts driving in a week. we'll see.

[tsuper92]

i think driftmotion or 935 still sell a lightweight steel flywheel for a good price.

[jmcboost]

You may know this already, but you can tap the oil filter housing union bolt for the oil feed line. I had a machine shop tap my bolt for $15 because it was really hard to drill through.

[p5150]

Good choice on the engine swap. I will watch this thread for awhile. I am pretty much done with mine so if you have any questions about how I got around something ask away.

2JZ to the NA-T is the choice for me!

[Bigzavs]

You may know this already, but you can tap the oil filter housing union bolt for the oil feed line. I had a machine shop tap my bolt for $15 because it was really hard to drill through.

the IS300 union bolt is already tapped for a 1/8NPT thread from Toyota, just another way of doing it, def more expensive tho

[juhanis]

Good choice on the engine swap. I will watch this thread for awhile. I am pretty much done with mine so if you have any questions about how I got around something ask away.

2JZ to the NA-T is the choice for me!

thanks for the kind words sir.


You may know this already, but you can tap the oil filter housing union bolt for the oil feed line. I had a machine shop tap my bolt for $15 because it was really hard to drill through.

i'm just going to tee off the stock pressure gauge sender port, i have a nice stainless steel braided line that almost makes it :biglaugh: so, i plan to just help it out with some push loc hydraulic line action. they dont need to look good where no one is going to see. the gauge is going to be an autometer mechanical unit with a braided line running all the way to it. i think i'm going to rid my car of its 7m tomorrow and starting cleaning up the r154 so it looks nice with the new bellhousing. plus i'll begin fabrication on the upper portion of the downpipe. and re routing the stock wiring harness. that stuff should be kinda fun, so, i'm looking forward to it.

[juhanis]

okay, i'll include some pics in this post a little while. i have to hook my phone up to the laptop. anyway, i got the fittings for the oil supply lines, and i started to make pie cuts for my downpipe. i didnt want to buy an ebay one and just hack it up, so i opted to modify my old 7m one, by pie cutting the hell out of it :evil2: and the best part is, i've done all these pie cuts with no saw :aigo: the pics will tell how. anyhow, just wanted to see some opinions on the pie cutting, let me know what ya think.

[p5150]

I attached the standard 7M oil pressure sensor to the lexus union bolt. For my turbo I used the same source as you have out the side of the block. I actually used the copper tube that runs behind the timing belt/engine cover by attaching compression fittings to the tubing.

[juhanis]

I attached the standard 7M oil pressure sensor to the lexus union bolt. For my turbo I used the same source as you have out the side of the block. I actually used the copper tube that runs behind the timing belt/engine cover by attaching compression fittings to the tubing.

that's pretty badass. yeah, i saw that port, and i figured why not. i didnt want to tap anything else.

well here are some pics that i promised... i'm going to have to make more radical angles in my pie cuts to clear the firewall. plus my welds with the non gas cooled welder look like crap, so no pics of that. i'm gonna get to a better welder tonight.

here are the cuts and the tools of the trade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/IMG00191.jpg

my friend jeff demonstrates how its done!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/IMG00189.jpg

and here's a plan in motion.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/IMG00187.jpg

me TRYING to make a decent looking weld... FAIL
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/IMG00205.jpg

me trying again...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/IMG00206.jpg

my little oil line setup so far.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/IMG00217.jpg

thats it for now... time for more pics later today.

[dok33]

2J NA-T FTMFW!! Sorry, I feel the need to interject that in every 2j thread.

Lookin' good! I love the "project iron man" nice color choices :)

[Grimsta]

Cool stuff man. This is so encouraging me to get working on assembling my 2J, lol. But my colorscheme is going to be War Machine!! LOL

[vert88]

keep up the good work and keep us posted, i am going to start hording parts to do that same swap into my 86 cressida probably in july august time frame

[juhanis]

keep up the good work and keep us posted, i am going to start hording parts to do that same swap into my 86 cressida probably in july august time frame

no joke, hording up the parts is the way to do it! waiting sucks.

so, i figured i'd at least tack weld up a downpipe today. now, dont laugh at the shitty welds... they're temporary! using my crude measurements this thing should clear, but i know it will be close... it may not too, thats why its not totally welded together. pie cutting was proving to be a pain in the ass without the proper tools. so, i threw a bend on it after all. to the pics!

side...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/IMG00219.jpg

back
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/IMG00220.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/IMG00221.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/IMG00222.jpg

all i got to say, is if i had some american chopper status tools, this thing would be very nice. but for a kragen welder and no use of a saw at all, its not bad. gas shielded welder welds are coming soon! the o2 sensor bung isnt on yet, and i need to check the clearances before finalizing the welds. i'll probably paint it black too with high temp paint.

[p5150]

High heat paint will just turn into high heat smoke and flakes on a downpipe. If you want it to last you will have to get it ceramic coated.

[suprahero]

What Cade said X100. I tried powdercoating my manifold and it only lasted about twenty minutes. It cooked off and turned back to the original color. I'm sure they make a high temp pc, but mine apparently wasn't made for that.

[p5150]

Also, dont forget to re-clock your wastegate flange approximately 90 degrees so that the output port points aft. You will never be able to get a dump tube on it or tie a tube back in the exhaust if you decide to in the future.

I guess that you could just let the wastegate dump right on your frame but you might burn something up....

Consider the output port on the compressor housing. I had to weld a cast 90 aluminum bend on the housing of my gt42 because it went directly into the frame and there was absolutely no way possible to get any type of intercooler pipe to work without chopping up the frame or fender well. It looks to me like your turbo is situated in a similar fashion.

I covered my wastegate vacuum lines with thermal reflective slip over jackets and purchased high-grade temperature resistant hose from an industrial supply store. Its pretty cheap. The last thing you want is your wastegate line to get fucked up.

The last thing I could recommend from glancing at your pictures is to change that turbo oil supply line to a braided AN fitting or something. Im just not a big fan of pressurized rubber oil lines..... Drainage, OK. Pressure/Supply, not OK. Personally I dont care if the company says it is good or not, there is always the possibility of having a huge orgasmic mess when you chafe through the wall in a couple of years. I have had an engine fire from leaking oil before.

www.anplumbing.com is a great place to get stuff at a good price. A -4 or -3 line setup should be good but you will have to measure the restriction on the turbo inlet to see what size is right.

ooh - one other thing. You definately will need a turbo blanket. I got mine from boostlogic for about 170? but it was the oversized one for the GT42. You will definately note a difference and not have to change your coupler.

[p5150]

If you want an inexpensive EGR blockoff plate, just cut out an aluminum plate to fit and sandwich it between the stock egr diverter plate and the head.

[vert88]

aside from the weld you mocked it up pretty good can't wait til you get that bad boy running and start tuning it, by the way are you going to do maft pro or lex, 550's and safc, me i plan on going the lex route cause i going to go with what i know first and then see what happens

[juhanis]

If you want an inexpensive EGR blockoff plate, just cut out an aluminum plate to fit and sandwich it between the stock egr diverter plate and the head.

i value your opinion on that oil line, it is a braided an line except for about 5" of it at the end there. i've ran these lines for years on many setups with no issues (well one did burn on the manifold once) but that was the only issue. also that rubber end is on the intake side too, and its high temp and good for 300psi. the oil lines otherwise are all braided stainless steel :icon_bigg oh yeah, the clock on the turbo is there so i can use my old jet hot coated ic pipes. the upper unfortunately will probably have to go under the knife, but mocking that up is near impossible without the engine in the car. i wish the 2jzgte intake fit, it would have made my life easier, because that's what i had on my 7m. and i'm already planning my attack on that wastegate flange. oh well, onward i go. thanks for the advice and comments!


aside from the weld you mocked it up pretty good can't wait til you get that bad boy running and start tuning it, by the way are you going to do maft pro or lex, 550's and safc, me i plan on going the lex route cause i going to go with what i know first and then see what happens

i'm just running the same piggybacks i had on my 7m... hks vpc, 550cc chip, safc2, avcr, 550cc denso's, areomotive afpr. i eventually want to get a megasquirt. i've ran the megasquirt on my turbo'd miata before, and i LOVED it. the engine was 200k miles 18psi of boost over 200hp and perfectly streetable and reliable, it started every time, and made this power daily. i sold it to another guy, he drove it for awhile... then drifted it, then sold it to someone else. it never died! back on topic, i really really hope that dp fits, i've checked it every way i could. the engine isnt ready to go in the car until the flywheel arrives. the 7m is coming out sometime in the next couple of days, and i'm going to degrease the transmission.

[tsuper92]

i like having my turbo clocked like that also.on three different set-up's, i needed a cast elbow on the compressor cover.i'm actually waiting for an elbow to come in now:)

[juhanis]

nothing got done today, just waiting for my flywheel,pilot bearing,belt,arp flywheel bolts to come in. so, a lot of beer drinking was done today. :drink1:

[tsuper92]

i just noticed in one of your pic's.the 2jz-ge water pipe that run's along the block faces up,which make's it nice for connecting to the heater core.on my gte block it shoot's straight out taking up dp space.i'm going to have to get me one of them,for next time my manifold is off.

[juhanis]

well, i finally got the 7m out... so, that's chillin on the floor. now the fun will begin. to install the new engine :evil2:

[juhanis]

well, this BLOWS i dont think the pan is going to clear. i'm having a hell of a time trying to get the engine in. ofcourse the damn pan is hitting the cross member and its not allowing the engine to go anymore back. i dont know. i think the metal lower portion is not the right one, because the damn thing ALMOST fits. i dont know what to do. i guess now the stupid project is on hold again...:3d_frown:

[turbogate]

looking at your pics in the first page, your pan seems to be a true Mid sump pan as opposed to the mid/rear pan found on the 1j/2j supras. That might be why it seems so close to fitting but does not. There was a thread somewhere showing different types of pan for the 1j/2jzs, but I couldn't find it. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

This is yours from the first page

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/IMG00168.jpg

This is a mid/rear 1j sump, you can see the slight difference.

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q127/turbogate/1578_1.jpg

[juhanis]

yeah i was looking at mine and i knew it wasnt that one. also though people say since its a mid sump its supposed to clear, i dont believe it does, i've found myself trying to take off the valve covers to get it back some more, but no luck. it just stays on top of that cross member. so, i'm going to try to source out a rear sump pan. because this is driving me crazy... it was awesome to see the whole thing together finally, but then that had to happen. so close yet so far.

[suprahero]

Sorry to hear about your setback. Hopefully you'll figure something out and be able to find what you need at a reasonable price. Good luck.

[juhanis]

thanks, i'm going to know a lot more whats going to happen on monday. until then i think i'll just keep making modifications to the car and its parts to keep finishing things on my list. i still have more little things to do. i'm looking to hopefully be done by thanksgiving. we'll see.

[tlo86]

its about 150$ for the pan new ~ maybe the mounts are the problem?

im curious if the baffle /pickup stuff is the same though

[jmcboost]

You may be able to find a good deal on a rear sump pan setup on ClubNA-T. Also is it hitting the cross member that you can unbolt? If so, try to take it off and then install it after the engine is in.

[juhanis]

You may be able to find a good deal on a rear sump pan setup on ClubNA-T. Also is it hitting the cross member that you can unbolt? If so, try to take it off and then install it after the engine is in.

unfortunately, its on the main one... kinda sucks because the engine is just sitting almost all the way in the car =( but hopefully today i get this issue resolved. there's a guy here locally that has a rear sump pan and pickup. i hope i can get this thing from him tonight.

[Grimsta]

Where did that motor come from? A GS300?!

[juhanis]

i posted on another "supra forum" the answer to this question. but i'll throw it up on here too. i dont know what car its from i was told a mk4. either way, i have the rear sump installed now. the engine goes in tomorrow. here are some update pics, i stopped working on the car at 1am just because i want to wake up at some reasonable hour tomorrow to get a lot of work done.

here's the broken 7m with my iron man valve covers on it.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/100_0647.jpg

my car is missing its heart =(
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/100_0646.jpg

rear sump pan before installation... not bad for 50 bucks!!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/100_0643.jpg

the mid sump that was on there, errrrrr.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/100_0651.jpg

2jz+r154... i never thought i'd get to this point!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/100_0653.jpg

and the only reason i took this pic was because i had none of it with the belt on.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/100_0652.jpg

[Grimsta]

Oh what?! OEM belt :3d_frown: I coulda gotten you a good Gates Racing timing belt for cheap

[juhanis]

Oh what?! OEM belt :3d_frown: I coulda gotten you a good Gates Racing timing belt for cheap

its the original timing belt. this engine had very little mileage on it.

[juhanis]

more progress...

the downpipe ALOMST cleared. i thought i did a pretty good job for not even mocking it up on the car. no pics of that...

engine in, THANK GOD!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/100_0655.jpg

stock 7m high pressure line modified to fit the 2jz... i basically bent the hard lines around carefully to take up the slack. i'll have one made when this one craps out.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/100_0657.jpg

heater hose routing in the back. i have the transmission jacked up a tad for more clearance, so, thats why the gap is big back there.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/100_0658.jpg

more progress is coming.

[tsuper92]

the heater pipe that run's along the block could go straight to the heater valve.then just run the other hose from the head to the connection near the brake booster.

your getting there,hopefully she purr's like a kitten and bite's like a dawg:)

[juhanis]

the heater pipe that run's along the block could go straight to the heater valve.then just run the other hose from the head to the connection near the brake booster.

your getting there,hopefully she purr's like a kitten and bite's like a dawg:)

oh yeah! huh word... i kinda like that idea more. i remember you saying something i think earlier about that... whoops!

[tsuper92]

motor look's nice and clean under the valve cover's.no sludge=happy motor

[10secdream]

Glad to see the motor is in the car. Can't wait to hear it running.

[juhanis]

time for an update... yep at 5:15 am. i worked on the car til about 4am, time to catch some sleep. back at it tomorrow. pics...

replacing one wire on the alternator and extending all the others. the black one is the one i replaced at the spade connector.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/100_0661.jpg

recent underhood pic.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/100_0664.jpg

re routed alternator wiring and positive cable.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/100_0667.jpg

power steering conversion...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/100_0665.jpg

hopefully i'll have it running tomorrow.

[jmcboost]

WOW!! What took you a month took me about 2 years. :3d_frown: Looks Great!

[juhanis]

hehe thanks for the compliment. it takes lots of 5 hour energy. it makes me work like a tweaker.

[juhanis]

mini update... basically done with wiring. all sensors installed except o2 and cps. all mounts on, driveshaft in. upper plenum on. etc... now for pics.

jeff working on the o2 sensor wiring.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/100_0675.jpg

how the wiring looks around the lower plenum.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/100_0669.jpg

upper plenum on.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/100_0674.jpg

shifter location.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/100_0678.jpg

hands up foo!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/100_0677.jpg

[tsuper92]

boosting soon;)

[juhanis]

boosting soon;)

god i hope so, sorry for no update pics for today... i'm friggen tired working on this thing. i'm re routing all the intercooler piping. i took some cool pics, but i'll need to upload them. i finished the wastegate clock and the downpipe. so, i'm closer.

[tsuper92]

how's the manifold and turbo fit with the motor in the car?you going to have clearance with the turbo clocked like that?i'm just wondering because both my single's(1j and 2j)needed an elbow welded on because of being close to the frame
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v600/tsuper92/90degelbowoncompcover001.jpg

[SURUKO]

pretty good build wish you good luck


is that the 7mgte wiring ?

will it work on a 2jzge? or a 2jzgte? could anyone explain this to me?
:1zhelp:

[p5150]

I needed the turbo elbow also

[suprahero]

as did I..............looking good Juhanis.

[wiseco7mgt]

"Wake up"no time to be sleeping, quick we need pics lol

[tsuper92]

^^^ya juhanis is slacking:)

[juhanis]

pretty good build wish you good luck


is that the 7mgte wiring ?

will it work on a 2jzge? or a 2jzgte? could anyone explain this to me?
:1zhelp:

its the 7mgte wiring and sensors. some need to be lengthened, other than that, pretty much plug and play. if you plan to use the 7m stuff, you can use either block i'm sure, just a 2jzge head at least.


I needed the turbo elbow also

i got around that for now :icon_bigg


as did I..............looking good Juhanis.

thank you sir. its reading about your guys cars that made me want to do this! you know who you all are.


^^^ya juhanis is slacking:)
never :sarcasm:

it should run tonight... i'll have pics soon!

[mk3design]

How did I miss this thread... looks great! Cant wait until I can finish my na-t 2j

[juhanis]

How did I miss this thread... looks great! Cant wait until I can finish my na-t 2j

for being an easier swap its still a lot of work... well, i did make the downpipe, and route all my own intercooler piping.

little update: i have to do something about the throttle cable and finish up the little things, and i'll be ready to start it up tomorrow. i cranked it over tonight, no leaks, and its full of fluids.

[juhanis]

ITS RUNNING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! that was a lot of work... pics later... i'm going viper hunting

[lppro]

pics? videos? commonnnnnn lol

[juhanis]

so, after getting to drive the car with this engine in it. i must say, it feels like it almost has more torque than the 7m. the engine runs quite a bit smoother, power delivery is nice and smooth also. plus at 4-5k rpm it sounds awesome! i'm currently at 7-8psi and it feels nice for this amount of boost. i'm having a problem with an oil leak at the cps. hopefully tomorrow i'll get that taken care of. other than that... no issues. it starts instantly, revs well, at idle even with an open downpipe its about as loud as a stock supra. so far, this engine is badass. after i installed the engine, it took about 3 cranks for the car to fire up the first time. videos are coming tomorrow.

pics...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/IMG00225.jpg

downpipe/manifold area
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/IMG00227.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/IMG00226.jpg

i routed the intercooler pipes under the radiator, and there's about 4" of ground clearance. this pic shows its kinda busy under there.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/IMG00230.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/Juhanis/IMG00234.jpg

[hottscennessey]

Wow, that was quick. People seem to be getting better and better at this swap! Good work!

[juhanis]

Wow, that was quick. People seem to be getting better and better at this swap! Good work!

thank you sir. in all, it took my roughly a month and a half to get this done. a lot of the time was spent parts hunting. the swap itself was more like a week or so. i had a lot of setbacks too, the oil pan, the flywheel, having to modify everything and not really know about it. aside from the engine bolting in there and using stock sensors, i basically had to alter every accessory, and start to re make my exhaust. the other thing was my 7m had a lot of aftermarket things, ffim, oil filter relocation kit, (which i removed for the 2jz), intercooler pipes, the exhaust, fuel stuff, the list goes on and on. i'm just thankful to have this done, and have it work so well. i'll probably finish the exhaust up in week or so, i'm feeling lazy.

[Grimsta]

Looks good man.
So you're running the 7M electronics, but you have no MAF sensor, which indicates you're not completely using the 7M electronics. What engine management are you running and you're using a MAP sensor right?

[89supturbo]

looks like it could use a turbo blanket and a whole lot of header wrap on the charge pipes with the hot side being so close.

BTW, how much horsepower does the vitamin water add?

[huntin5L]

It only took you two or three weeks LOL

[juhanis]

::update::
i found an oil leak on the oil return line, i'm working on fixing that right now. since i didnt have my timing light last night i just kinda did it by ear, and i didnt mash on it. i checked it today. hahahahhaha, it was 5 degrees after tdc. that's awesome, and it still felt this good. no wonder my safc kept registering nothing. so, obviously timing will be set, and i'm getting rid of that last oil leak. then maybe in a week or two exhaust will be going on. but for now open downpipe like a g :evil2:



Looks good man.
So you're running the 7M electronics, but you have no MAF sensor, which indicates you're not completely using the 7M electronics. What engine management are you running and you're using a MAP sensor right?

i just have a hks vpc with a 550cc chip, and safc2... so far its running REAL smooth.


It only took you two or three weeks LOL

well, i only made the thread after parts started to come in, because i didnt want it to sound/look like a dream project.

[juhanis]

here are some videos, the first one is a cold start video. i probably put like 20 or 30 miles on the car since the swap when i shot this. so, its not really a surprise that it didnt start on the first crank. now, things are a lot better.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VMW-QHkkBeY

then this video is a 60-120mph pull video at 7psi and 5degrees of base timing. this thing feels pretty good for such little boost, naturally, i plan to double this amount of boost for daily driving :icon_bigg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x_-7DbiC2yQ

[BorHor]

FINALLY!!! Too bad you didn't finish in time for the meet :(

[vert88]

hey do you still have that ffim for the 7m and if you do will you sell it?

[suprahero]

congrats. You did a great job on this swap. It should be really strong once you up the boost and get it tuned properly.

Vert, he can't sell it to you in this thread even if he has it. Take it to PM or a moderator will be forced to give an infraction to Juhanis, and that's not what I want to happen. Thanks.

[juhanis]

FINALLY!!! Too bad you didn't finish in time for the meet :(

i know... i was trying to, but i really didnt know the amount of work that goes into something like this. i'll be ready for the next meet. i'm just trying to fix the 2 stupid oil leaks.


hey do you still have that ffim for the 7m and if you do will you sell it?

pm me, i still have it.

[RPSil13]

what was your final cost??

[juhanis]

its basically the total at the beginning. plus maybe 100 bucks.

[Grimsta]

Wait, to get this straight you didnt replace the pistons?

And your mounts, where'd you get them from? I need new 7M mounts and dont want another stock rubber one that will tear

[p5150]

Why would he need to change the pistons?

[juhanis]

yeah, i dont think i'll need to change the pistons especially with this turbo, its only good for like 500 to the wheels. however, i do plan to eventually put a thicker head gasket in. the only thing i did to it thus far is take off the valve covers and the oil pan. this thing seems to be in perfect condition, if there is blowby coming out of the breathers i cant detect any. i'm at 60psi of oil pressure at 3k rpm, no smoke ever, no smoke on decel in gear, its so smooth it almost doesnt even sound like its on at idle (after it warms up). and one of my favorites i start sounding like a mk4 at above 3k rpm. i should have done this years ago instead of wasting my time with all those 7m's.

[Grimsta]

I say pistons because the NA had higher compression than the turbo so higher compression with more boost leads to more problems. Plus without oil squirters forged pistons would be a good idea. Thats just what I'm doing to my GE since its going to be a road race engine. To compensate a little for the lack of squirters I'm putting in forged pistons for a GTE, but during the machining we'll probably be tapping the block and installing squirters and higher flowing oil pump anyways. Keep in mind I'm not going for crazy high HP either because of my NASA class's restrictions, but I will be shooting for 605whp which is a little more than you.

Now how about those mounts? Where'd you get em from?

[juhanis]

I say pistons because the NA had higher compression than the turbo so higher compression with more boost leads to more problems. Plus without oil squirters forged pistons would be a good idea. Thats just what I'm doing to my GE since its going to be a road race engine. To compensate a little for the lack of squirters I'm putting in forged pistons for a GTE, but during the machining we'll probably be tapping the block and installing squirters and higher flowing oil pump anyways. Keep in mind I'm not going for crazy high HP either because of my NASA class's restrictions, but I will be shooting for 605whp which is a little more than you.

Now how about those mounts? Where'd you get em from?

oh yeah, the mounts, i got them on ebay. search for ultra mounts. there have been quite a few people making over 600hp to the wheels on stock ge internals. my way of dealing with the higher compression for now is methanol and retarded timing. i plan to run about 14psi or so when i get this thing all figured out.

[Grimsta]

/\/\ True, but once again I'm talking about road racing. Thats prolonged periods of high revving and boost. Thanks for the mount info, hopefully they got some 7M ones as well because i'm still running my 7M at the moment

[dok33]

Woot! Nice work! Yours cold starts alot better than mine, E85 makes it even worse on cold mornings.

[juhanis]

/\/\ True, but once again I'm talking about road racing. Thats prolonged periods of high revving and boost. Thanks for the mount info, hopefully they got some 7M ones as well because i'm still running my 7M at the moment

yeah, that's true... when you're road racing there's way way more heat being generated due to the constant full throttle action. i used to have a miata, and almost everyone road raced those things. they had to invest a lot in cooling. the mounts are 7m ones, the upper brackets are just jza70 brackets (but i know you dont need those)


Woot! Nice work! Yours cold starts alot better than mine, E85 makes it even worse on cold mornings.

thank you sir, that video was a crappy cold start. it starts on like the 2nd crank now... haha. i'm currently in the stage of getting the afr's dialed in at 7psi, after i do, i'm gonna go down to 3 degrees of base timing, re install my methanol, and go up to 10psi or so. that's if the car doesnt kill me with the traction loss at 7.

[hottscennessey]

thank you sir, that video was a crappy cold start. it starts on like the 2nd crank now... haha. i'm currently in the stage of getting the afr's dialed in at 7psi, after i do, i'm gonna go down to 3 degrees of base timing, re install my methanol, and go up to 10psi or so. that's if the car doesnt kill me with the traction loss at 7.

3 deg of base timing, as in with a timing light, by adjusting the CPS??

[Grimsta]

Currenltly Supraless? What happened Steven Colbert?

[hottscennessey]

Currenltly Supraless? What happened Steven Colbert?

LOL, the Supra has a new owner. Maybe he'll post some vids soon :)

[Grimsta]

Was that your 2JZ NA-T Supra?

[hottscennessey]

My one and only :(

[diabolical1]

this is a badass thread. congratulations on your swap. you almost gave the illusion of it being easy.

just to clarify, you mounted this with MA70 mounts and JZA70 brackets? so it's virtually a bolt-in then?

good job! :)

[Adawg]

where did u get the rear sump oil pan for 50? you gotta hook me up with that deal.

[juhanis]

3 deg of base timing, as in with a timing light, by adjusting the CPS??

yep. any suggestions with that? i want to run 14psi max, 10 for now. i have 550's, vpc, afpr, safc2, 57trim t04e, big greddy fmic, wideband, progressive methanol control. i just listed those mods so you know what i'm working with.


this is a badass thread. congratulations on your swap. you almost gave the illusion of it being easy.

just to clarify, you mounted this with MA70 mounts and JZA70 brackets? so it's virtually a bolt-in then?

good job! :)

i used jza70 brackets, normal urethane 7m lower mounts, and a rear sump pan, and a bellhousing... nothing more. the trick is, almost everything else has to be modified. power steering, ic piping (in my case), wiring, fuel lines, alternator, cps, upper radiator hose. other than that stuff, yep, bolt in.


where did u get the rear sump oil pan for 50? you gotta hook me up with that deal.

one time deal :biglaugh: i got lucky with that one, because he bailed my ass out.

[dok33]

Traction will be limited above 10psi :D At 15psi my rear tires(275s) don't grip until I hit 3rd :evil:

[SURUKO]

i will make a letter to santa to give me as a christmas present a 2jzge like yours :biglaugh:

[hottscennessey]

yep. any suggestions with that? i want to run 14psi max, 10 for now. i have 550's, vpc, afpr, safc2, 57trim t04e, big greddy fmic, wideband, progressive methanol control. i just listed those mods so you know what i'm working with.

I wouldn't recommend skewing the timing using your base timing unless it's a last resort. There are other ways to do it even with a piggyback setup that has no timing control.

I can elaborate on this if you need me to^

What size HG are you running?

On my car, I was running what I considered very aggressive timing, I went to the dyno and made 450whp... I couldn't believe it. I grew a pair and went back two days later, positive that the car was in 100% mechanically and there were no physical restrictions. I added about 2-4* of timing to the ignition, map in select places, and made 677whp at less boost ;).

What size nozzle are you using with your methanol injection? The reason I ask is because I've heard of people running methanol and losing power vs the same boost level on 110 leaded. They were on the stock ECU, they weren't running any crazy setup that would make me think they were detonating forcing the ECU to pull timing. Methanol will not kill power if tuned correctly..

The previous story, plus my experience tuning methanol, and some of my research done on the Buick Grand National forums all lead me to believe that if you're running enough methanol, there is a chance even the stock ECU may not be able to give you enough timing.

[juhanis]

I wouldn't recommend skewing the timing using your base timing unless it's a last resort. There are other ways to do it even with a piggyback setup that has no timing control.

I can elaborate on this if you need me to^

What size HG are you running?

On my car, I was running what I considered very aggressive timing, I went to the dyno and made 450whp... I couldn't believe it. I grew a pair and went back two days later, positive that the car was in 100% mechanically and there were no physical restrictions. I added about 2-4* of timing to the ignition, map in select places, and made 677whp at less boost ;).

What size nozzle are you using with your methanol injection? The reason I ask is because I've heard of people running methanol and losing power vs the same boost level on 110 leaded. They were on the stock ECU, they weren't running any crazy setup that would make me think they were detonating forcing the ECU to pull timing. Methanol will not kill power if tuned correctly..

The previous story, plus my experience tuning methanol, and some of my research done on the Buick Grand National forums all lead me to believe that if you're running enough methanol, there is a chance even the stock ECU may not be able to give you enough timing.

i'm running the stock hg for now, i do realize that this is going to hold me back. hence i want to only run about 1 bar. my safc at 7psi and 5 degrees of base timing is registering 180-190 knock but i know its very brief. i also know its happening around the higher rpm. also at other times my knock at the same boost is 26 or so. afr's are around 12.4, i guess i could add some more fuel. i believe my methanol nozzle is 440cc's i have a bigger one but its only recommended for 600hp. oh well, guess, i'll just go to 10psi for now. i guess not too much bad stuff can happen from just a 3psi boost increase except for more tire destruction, 2nd gear has problems even at 7.

[juhanis]

so, i tried 12psi tonight with the methanol too. my safc shows a knock the very millisecond i floor it, and then it never comes back. the turbo has almost zero lag, and it feels almost like i'm being rearended when i punch it. my new problem is my spark is being blown out, i know this is what it is. i've had this problem on other cars i've owned in the past. my gap is at .026 so, i guess i'll go a little tighter, if that doesnt work. new wires. but i smell a cop conversion coming...

[Grimsta]

What you need is a more powerful spark

[hottscennessey]

Ahh, the stock HG.

Honestly, since you're running a 7MGTE ECU I don't think you need to retard your base timing more than a couple degrees.

From what I'm told, using the stock knock sensors with the SAFC is not going to give you a good indication of knock. Are you getting repeatable reading?

[juhanis]

What you need is a more powerful spark

yep, or less boost :cry:


Ahh, the stock HG.

Honestly, since you're running a 7MGTE ECU I don't think you need to retard your base timing more than a couple degrees.

From what I'm told, using the stock knock sensors with the SAFC is not going to give you a good indication of knock. Are you getting repeatable reading?

yeah, the readings are happening over and over again. its always like 190 or so right at the moment i floor it. and yes, the head gasket is stock. i'm still at 5 degrees btdc. honestly, if i add any more power, i dont know if i'll be able to put it down without my mickey thompsons. but when i get bored of this power, i'll probably go advance it to like 6 or 7 btdc. because i dont know if this ignition is going to cope with any more boost. i'm going to try a .022 gap today... lets hope that works.

[hottscennessey]

haha very nice, what plugs are you running?

Also, what coils are you running?

[juhanis]

haha very nice, what plugs are you running?

Also, what coils are you running?

ngk iridums 1 step colder, stock 7m coils, acura legend wires. i gapped the plugs down to .022 and that fixed the missing from what i can tell. i know it can make more power at this boost. so, i'm going to tune it a little more. so, you think i can run more timing? i'm nervous about running more timing because of the compression ratio on this engine...

[juhanis]

new video... same as before. 60-120 pull starting at 60 in 3rd gear. about 13psi of boost, 5degrees of base timing, w/ methanol (green light in video)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JS4YT5zjxX0

[Grimsta]

You dont gap iridium plugs! You can mess up the electrode like that!

[juhanis]

You dont gap iridium plugs! You can mess up the electrode like that!

well, i had a problem before hand. after gapping, its gone.

[hottscennessey]

coppers.. bkr7e's FTW :)

[juhanis]

coppers.. bkr7e's FTW :)

yeah... i think i'm gonna break down and get some... i've ran them before and they've done well. meanwhile, i'm gonna add a degree or two of base timing. hopefully i dont detonate.