how much rwhp can my motor handle

[bis_1315m]

Hey whats goin on just curious but how much boost do yall thank I can run on my motor without it blowing up and about how much rwhp do you think I should be making. These are a list of my mods.

60-1 turbo
hks filter
2.5 ic piping
hks f-con
hks fcd
apexi n1
3in exhaust piping turbo back
cometic headgasket
hks bov
fidanza flywheel
stage 2 act clutch

I'm going to be installing a boost controller soon and just curious on how much I can boost safely without being rich or lean or having it blow

thanks
Michael

[Rennat]

why are you using an hks FCD? get a lexus afm housing and some injectors! and i serisouly hope you forgot to put a fuel pump into that list...

how much boost is your 60-1 running right now?

[bis_1315m]

why are you using an hks FCD? get a lexus afm housing and some injectors! and i serisouly hope you forgot to put a fuel pump into that list...

how much boost is your 60-1 running right now?

It's running stock boost and no I didnt forget to put fuel pump in that list I just bought this car and this is how it was setup the a/f ratio looks alright but I know I need a fuel pump for that turbo and why do yoo ask why am I using a fcd and how much will the lex afm and 550's help my numbers

[bis_1315m]

I plan I buying a tt supra pump soon.

[zambini]

if not the fuel system, its the clutch id be worried about.. whats it good till, 330hp?

[jdub]

I'd be more worried about who installed the Cometic MHG, if both the block/head was decked, what hardware & torque spec was used to torque the head down and if the head bolts/studs have been retorqued since the HG change.

Turn up the boost without any of the above done correctly = BHG in very short order.

[bis_1315m]

I'd be more worried about who installed the Cometic MHG, if both the block/head was decked, what hardware & torque spec was used to torque the head down and if the head bolts/studs have been retorqued since the HG change.

Turn up the boost without any of the above done correctly = BHG in very short order.

Dont know to much about the hg I'm pretty sure the guy I bought it from decked and retorqued new stock bolts to the right torque specs and that is all I know about the hg and the motor has been freshend up with new belts new oil pump new plugs,wires, water pump, main seals, and new radiator

[Rennat]

re-torque the head studs/bolts first. i didnt eve think about that...

TAKE OFF THE FCD! Fuel cut SAVES your engine, fuel cut is NOT a bad thing.

Lex + 550 = 400hp+ range

and for the price, the walbro flows a little more @ a little higher pressures, although the TT pump is a lot quieter. all depends on how much you feel like spending.

Still on the stock intercooler? if so, get rid of it, get a DM one, pick your style and get that in.

[jdub]

I would find out for sure if I were you ;)

Specifically:
- Was both the block and head decked to a 50 RA to meet the Cometic MHG smoothness spec...a lot of guys do not pull the motor to have the block decked. If they don't, it's a crap shoot if the MHG will seal or not. The block at minimum has to be perfectly flat.

- If new stock bolts were used, they should have been torqued to 70-75 ft/lbs. After 5 complete engine heat-up/cool-down cycles (minimum), the head bolts should have been re-torqued back to the same range. Search "retorque" for specifics on how to do this.

You can crank up the boost without knowing/checking either...if you do, I'll bet we will be reading a "why am I blowing white smoke from my exhaust" thread in the fairly near future.

[zambini]

man id say leave the boost levels for a minute until you have worked out the weaker spots in your system. sounds like you have quite a bit of prep work involved already.. why blow it all up with a (relatively) huge turbo before you can really enjoy it?

[JMofIRW]

since you didn't do any of the work, you should definitely listen to everyone posting here and recheck basically everything.

I just got my supra and I thought it was stock until I looked at a half ass job the pvs owner did trying to raise boost and make the car faster.

[Woody1989]

if not the fuel system, its the clutch id be worried about.. whats it good till, 330hp?

My factory clutch held fine for several 400hp+ pulls on the dyno. However, since the exhaust upgrade and intercooler upgrade I have noticed it can slip in third & fourth gear. Haven't been back to the dyno yet to see where the power is at now.

Brad


Edited by Jdub: Lets avoid a thread jack shall we ;)

[turbo87targa]

I'd be more worried about who installed the Cometic MHG, if both the block/head was decked, what hardware & torque spec was used to torque the head down and if the head bolts/studs have been retorqued since the HG change.

Turn up the boost without any of the above done correctly = BHG in very short order.

something tells me if the previous owner put on a MHG, and didnt spend the extra $120 on arp studs, he didnt spend the money to have the block decked either....

which is really sad, why spend the time and money to be right there where you need to be, only to put it back together half finished?

get it done right the first time.

[zambini]

something tells me if the previous owner put on a MHG, and didnt spend the extra $120 on arp studs, he didnt spend the money to have the block decked either....

which is really sad, why spend the time and money to be right there where you need to be, only to put it back together half finished?

get it done right the first time.

mkiii syndrome.:icon_mull

i know i suffer from it:sarcasm:

...sadly.

[Poodles]

FCD is fine with the F-con...

[IJ.]

10...

[jdub]

9...

[Rennat]

8...

[IJ.]

I meant 10rwhp ;)

[Rennat]

even with a BHG he'll make more than 10rwhp. hahaha

::bhg::

[hvyman]

how do you know that the afrs are correct?

[turbo87targa]

mkiii syndrome.:icon_mull

i know i suffer from it:sarcasm:

...sadly.

I'm pretty sure most of us have. It. Sucks to spend all that time and money but when u do it right it pays off 10 fold over cheaping out.

[JCFsupraman]

re-torque the head studs/bolts first. i didnt eve think about that...

TAKE OFF THE FCD! Fuel cut SAVES your engine, fuel cut is NOT a bad thing.

Lex + 550 = 400hp+ range

and for the price, the walbro flows a little more @ a little higher pressures, although the TT pump is a lot quieter. all depends on how much you feel like spending.

Still on the stock intercooler? if so, get rid of it, get a DM one, pick your style and get that in.


Dude I have heard many people say the exact same thing...
Lex + 550's = 400hp
I had them along with eman blue, profec E-01, K&N air intake, Greddy TD-06 20G, HKS dp, ED sport cat, and HKS dual tip sport exhaust and could only ever get as high as 360HP on a dynapack rear wheels off dyno. Now that I switched to the MAFT Pro kit with aem EUGO wideband & boost control and just dynoed at 363.50 on an awd Mustang dyno which is the most accurate at reflecting true road conditions. The tech said that on a dynapack I could have gotten 400 - 425. So is the quote supposed to read

Lex + 550's =400 HP on a dynapack only?

Or are there any supras out there doing 400HP on an awd MUSTANG dyno?
Thanks

[zambini]

I'm pretty sure most of us have. It. Sucks to spend all that time and money but when u do it right it pays off 10 fold over cheaping out.

oh, so very true.

its the ability to NOT cheap out that most of us do not possess. if you had the money to buy the best parts every time and didnt, you would be an absolute moron. lol

id love to do my supra right. im trying to, its just taking a while.. but the lesson to be learned here is this:

these cars are turbo. it is very easy to boost a turbo car sky high...

its just gonna break over and over until you finally do it right with the right parts... which costs a lot.:nono:

[Rennat]

Dude I have heard many people say the exact same thing...
Lex + 550's = 400hp
I had them along with eman blue, profec E-01, K&N air intake, Greddy TD-06 20G, HKS dp, ED sport cat, and HKS dual tip sport exhaust and could only ever get as high as 360HP on a dynapack rear wheels off dyno. Now that I switched to the MAFT Pro kit with aem EUGO wideband & boost control and just dynoed at 363.50 on an awd Mustang dyno which is the most accurate at reflecting true road conditions. The tech said that on a dynapack I could have gotten 400 - 425. So is the quote supposed to read

Lex + 550's +400 HP on a dynapack only?

Or are there any supras out there doing 400HP on an awd MUSTANG dyno?
Thanks


the HKS downpipe isnt that great, especially since you mention NOTHING of the elbow being a high flow unit. but i'll assume that you did replace it. because the stock elbow is the biggest restriction in the exhaust system besides the downpipe. and i bought an hks downpipe, didnt even like how it looked, so i sold it. bought a recirculated downpipe instead. but i ended up selling that too.

that 20g turbo isnt that wonderful... there are much more efficent turbos out there, and what psi were you running it at? and what were your AFR's under WOT? and looking at your dynograps your car must feel pretty laggy from a dig...

and all i said was lex + 550's = 400hp+ RANGE. never did i say you would automatically be at that level or HP... just that you could obtain power upto that point.

and just to prove that you CAN hit over 400hp with a lexus afm and 550's... heres a dynograph from 2005.... and hes even on a 57trim ct-26...
http://7mpower.com/raymond_khublal.shtml
http://7mpower.com/nick_murjanovic.shtml and hes on the stock AFM + 550's...

[JCFsupraman]

Yes the elbow is a larger unit to enhance airflow.
PSI was 14.5 with a spike to 18 at Splitfire and 14.5 with a spike to 21 at Victory with new parts installed.
Yeah I have heard about people hitting high numbers with the TD06 20g & auto like Dave Moskovitz who also had a Level 10 built tranny but his I guess was done right the first time and ran like 11 seconds at the track for the 1/4 mile. Mine was slipping and had to be redone but it was slow as malasses off the line. Now it is quicker but still not great IMO. Although manually shifting helps.
Yes Raymond & Nick have awesome Supras and good results but both are manual which I have heard is the way to go. I am 6'5" 300 and have no room to move my feet and have always driven auto so lets just say manual is not an option. I even had the DoLuck RxB that I bought off Dr.Jones removed to give me back the 1 inch of leg room that is stole.
Dan Ponze at GodSpeed told me that he thought my turbo was maxed at the 360 mark on his Dynapack but I refused to believe him when I heard such great results like Dave's but maybe I need to revisit the Turbo department...after I run it at the track in the Spring thou. Well for now at just under $50k I think it's time to stop and just drive it and enjoy it. Next spring or summer who knows. Rennat, Thanks for the tips and info.

Oh AFR's under WOT they said 14-15 on the aem UEGO but I'm hearing 12 should be max what is the down low on that one? I told him to set it up for a realiable summertime daily driver with the odd weekend trip to the track with more 0-60 type street runs.

[Rennat]

if your AFR's are at 14 or 15 you'll blow the motor... most around here like 11.5:1 on a daily driver, a lot of "max power" people run 12.5:1 for the extra power...

20g's can run upwards of 20psi... there a pretty decent sized turbo, and you have the tdo6 hotside, so thats pretty large as well.

if you have a STOCK ct-26 elbow thats just "bored" out... you need to get a new one, thats not helping you at all, either get a high flow LIPP one, or get a divorced downpipe. you want a nice big smooth opening on the outlet of the turbo so you dont create turbulence in the exhaust.

you really should go make a WOT pull on video, and record the AEM's readings... because i just dont see how your engine is at 14:1 AFR...

[WhtMa71]

How much can it handle?
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=72016

I doubt it though.

[JCFsupraman]

if your AFR's are at 14 or 15 you'll blow the motor... most around here like 11.5:1 on a daily driver, a lot of "max power" people run 12.5:1 for the extra power...

20g's can run upwards of 20psi... there a pretty decent sized turbo, and you have the tdo6 hotside, so thats pretty large as well.

if you have a STOCK ct-26 elbow thats just "bored" out... you need to get a new one, thats not helping you at all, either get a high flow LIPP one, or get a divorced downpipe. you want a nice big smooth opening on the outlet of the turbo so you dont create turbulence in the exhaust.

you really should go make a WOT pull on video, and record the AEM's readings... because i just dont see how your engine is at 14:1 AFR...

I just called Mark at Victory to check and he confirmed that on the dyno it was at 11.5 - 12 but when I drive or cruise it should be running in the 14-15 range. So all should be fine. Thanks

[Rennat]

when you cruise its mostly controlled by the ECU anyways...
11.5-12 on the dyno is fine... i just wanted to be sure for your engines sake!