Cam Pulley Bolt Broke In The Cam

[Chambers]

Hi all, while putting my cam pulleys back on I followed the TSRM and set my torque wrench to 36ftlbs of torque. I started wrenching and it never gave in, since I had never used this wrench before I didn't know what 36ftlbs felt like, and the bolt on the intake cam snapped off. The torque wrench is a Craftsmen, and apparently it doesn't work correctly.

You can also see in the second pic the exhaust side bolt was stretched from too much torque.

As of now, I'm at a loss at what to do.

http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/6294/img1456tw3.jpg

http://img390.imageshack.us/img390/3977/img1460sd9.jpg

[RacerXJ220]

It's happened to me a few times.

I would take the one you have there to a machine shop.

I don't want to recommend anything that's really ghetto...

I would never recommend you drill a small hole in it and use a reverse drill extraction bit (or whatever it's called) on it. :)

^^ it worked on mine though.

[benchwarmer]

You should buy my spare Brian Crower intake cam. ;)

[Clip]

take it to a machine shop. might be expensive but itll be done right. you could see if they could cut it out with EDM, but that takes a damn long time. it's accurate though.

[mclabaugh]

use an EZ out or reverse drill extractor. you drill it with the recommended drill bit in the center of the bolt then put the EZ out in a tap handle and turn left..if it doesnt grab the bolt you may need to drill a little more.

the worst thing is if that EZ out breaks..it will be a major PITA to get the broken EZ out outta there. an EZ out is made of tool grade steel which is one of the hardest steels..

if that happens you will need a carbide rotary file to cut it out...

[Clip]

i wouldn't recommend an ez out. i've used them before and theyve worked but i've also broken a lot of them off. had to take a dremel with a carbide bit and chew at it for a while and eventually cut the whole inside of the bolt out til i could collapse the threads with a screwdriver.

edit: a handful of them were seized, you might be able to get it if you pour a good bit of penetrating oil on it to encourage it to come out. since you know its not rusted, the penetrating oil should make it pretty slick.

[IJ.]

I'd start with a pin punch and see if it'll move tapping the punch with a hammer in the counterclockwise direction, there's more than enough of the bolt above the threads for this approach to work.

Some penetrating lube will help as the threads may be stretched and acting as a lock.

[92nsx]

just buy a new cam. Cheap in F/S section
If I had my OEM cam I would sell it to you for shipping cost but I left them at my builders since I didnt need them :(

[ForcedTorque]

just buy a new cam. Cheap in F/S section
If I had my OEM cam I would sell it to you for shipping cost but I left them at my builders since I didnt need them :(

+1

I've got one but it would need machining. I'll give it to you for the cost of shipping, but I can't guarantee if it will be useable

[Chambers]

Thanks for all your replies, I didn't have a punch but I tried a flat head screw driver, it didn't work. I ended up going to Sears and purchased a extractor kit, one of those kits with the center drill and easy out on the same unit. I used a Tungsten Carbide mini end mill for a dremel to flatten out a spot for the center drill. Then I started with the extractor, it wasn't working so well so I used a drill slightly smaller than the center drill and drilled it about a 1/8" in and then using the center drill in the reverse direction the flutes caught the bolt and pulled it right out.

Again thanks for all your ideas and replies, and thanks for the cam offers!

By the way, I ditched the torque wrench and got one of the older styles with the pointers.

[92nsx]

Now fix your torque wrench ;) or buy a new one

[Chambers]

Funny, you posted that right as I edited my last post, got a new one! hehe.

[92nsx]

Pointer ummm/......... ok, but a working "clicker" type is better ;0

[Clip]

yes, i'd definitely take a click torque wrench over a pointer.

[Chambers]

Yea, so would I. Thats why I purchased the clicker first, but since Sears wont replace the clicker type for free, I leaned towards the pointer, cheaper and they will replace it. :)

[AJ'S 88NA]

While we are on the subject, any way of calibrating the clickers?? What I have and would like to know if it's close.

[Nomad707]

craftsman FTL (craftsman sells shitty thailand bullcrap that breaks all the time.. and they also sell shit thats made in america supposedly

Ive had 2 craftsman torque wrenches break, and on a single rebuild on a 7m i broke 5 sockets.(while also following proper torque procedures) , or taking apart.

Dad gave me an ancient set of H-K sockets that are BEAST. 0 broken.
H-K FTMFW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[cuel]

AJ: Depending on who makes it, and the condition its in, yes. The main thing to remember is to always wind it back down down to the bottom before putting it away. Never leave them set.

[AJ'S 88NA]

AJ: Depending on who makes it, and the condition its in, yes. The main thing to remember is to always wind it back down down to the bottom before putting it away. Never leave them set.

Thanks Cuel.

So they can be calibrated, is there a way to check it?

[88-7MGTE]

It's happened to me a few times.

I would take the one you have there to a machine shop.

I don't want to recommend anything that's really ghetto...

I would never recommend you drill a small hole in it and use a reverse drill extraction bit (or whatever it's called) on it. :)

^^ it worked on mine though.

Just do as hes said,
That is if you want to learn something
Home depot has those screw extractor they are like $10 in tools section.