Join our AEM fun! (Questions here, answers appreciated)

[Doward]

Alright, helping 7MBoost out and here's what I need to know ;)

1) The AEM uses ONLY the 'Engine Start' tables to get the car cranked, then switches to the 'Idle' tables, correct?

2) Does the 10-1130 AEM need to have the fuel resistor pack, or does it need to run the injectors directly?

3) Set of Delphi low imp 750cc injectors - which of the maps for the battery vs pw is going to be closest?

That should get most of the information I need. The manual is fairly unhelpful thus far :)

I can get the car fired up in Alpha-N mode, but I really want to get the speed density working ;) Going to work with the setup some more tonight, and hit the car again tomorrow!

[simpsons7s]

Forgive me if I stumble through this but, I am pretty sure the aem uses the cranking map first then switches to the base map. If you change injectors you have to adjust the precentage for both. Second, I think that you still need the resister pack because the base program that came with it incorperates it, even though you can change your injector impedences with the wizzard. I am not sure about the third question, but switching to speed density or map based is very easy. The map sensor wizzard is very easy to set it up just go through the list. I hope this helps a little bit.

[figgie]

doward

q #2. the unit is plug and play and as such, expexcts ALL the oem parts be in their respective place. Meaning, that the inline fuel injector resistor pack is needed or else, expect to fry the injector drivers with the AEM.

[Doward]

doward

q #2. the unit is plug and play and as such, expexcts ALL the oem parts be in their respective place. Meaning, that the inline fuel injector resistor pack is needed or else, expect to fry the injector drivers with the AEM.

No problem. It's just the battery volt vs inj pw wizard that's got me aggrevated - do I tell it yes, they are low ohm 750cc injectors, or are they high ohm, since that's what the AEM sees with the resistor pack in place?

I gotta say, I'm displeased with the AEM's software as well, compared to TunerPro, MegaTune, LS1Edit, HPTuners, WinTEC, and a couple of other tuning programs I've used over the years.

It seems AEMPro can't decide if it wants to give me simple 'wizard mode' where I don't get to see the settings, or 'here is 100% of what we can do mode' and give me every single last setting.

I'm confident we'll fire this thing back up again today, though :)

[92nsx]

Make sure the resistor pack is in place if you are using low imp. injectors. If you want to know what happens if you dont use the resistor pack with those injectors, just ask funky_monkey. lol, the AEM will go up in smoke.

Also if using the AEM to control boost, look at GM boost solenoid, GM Part # 1997152 and the wire harness/pigtails is GM Part # 12102747.

[Doward]

Aww, the AEM will let the magic smoke out? :(

No problem, resistor pack is in place - I thought the AEM had the capability to directly drive the injectors, though?

[92nsx]

^only if you use High imp. injecetors. But I am not in any way an expert on AEM EMS.
13.8 volts / 3.2 ohm = 4.3 amps
13.8 volts / 12 ohm = 1.1 amps
AEM has a max of 1.5 amps it can put out before magic smoke is found.
This was a short lesson learned from figgie, when funkey fried his EMU. Fig correct if wrong.

[mk3ukr]

3) Set of Delphi low imp 750cc injectors - which of the maps for the battery vs pw is going to be closest?



I was told on AEM forums to use battery offset table of your type injector with the closest impendance. I have TMS 780cc, same as Precision or Rochester. 780cc are not in the wizard list, so I choose Precision 1000cc, 2ohm injectors.
Surest way is to send injectors to AEM, they will test them for free

[Doward]

Gotcha, thanks!

[figgie]

^only if you use High imp. injecetors. But I am not in any way an expert on AEM EMS.
13.8 volts / 3.2 ohm = 4.3 amps
13.8 volts / 12 ohm = 1.1 amps
AEM has a max of 1.5 amps it can put out before magic smoke is found.
This was a short lesson learned from figgie, when funkey fried his EMU. Fig correct if wrong.

No You are correct.

Which reminds me, Why does the AEm give the option to select Impedance if in the end. It does not matter as low imp = insta-magic smoke?? :?:

[bfr1992t]

What smoked? My guess would be the traces on the board. The FET should have been able to handle it, though GEMs/AEMs idea of heat sinking and the wiring for the FET's used for injectors is a joke.

[John Reed]

You select the correct injector/impedance in the AEM simply to select the proper injector latency curve. It has nothing to do with how the injector is actually driven.

I have actually seen AEM's run low impedance injectors directly without damage (though it is impossible to tune). I arrived overseas a few years ago to tune a running JDM Supra with AEM (plugs right in) but the car was impossible to get any sort of stable tune on. I discovered the JDM cars have no resistor pack stock. We wired a pack in and then did the tune and it all worked great. Not saying damage isn't possible, but it seems sometimes it self protects itself.

[empera]

i got a question!
syncing the timing...i wanna make sure im doing it correctly. so i have a couple of questions.
where should the timing be at idle? i tried to set it for 10* but car isnt cranking over, cranks but it stutters. Wat i did...
1. make sure i had the ign. parameters
2. had the ign. set at 10* on the ign. map
3. opened set igniton and i advanced/retard it until the timing light showed the same, 10*

then i tried cranking it but had no luck...i then tried it setting it at 17* only because a friend has it set at 17 on this haltec, but the timing light was showing 0* at idle...BUT it cranked flawlessly....

any ideas?

[Doward]

Offhand, no idea. I'll think on it more later. I've been finding all kinds of little problems on Jeff's car, so we're fine-toothed-combing it :)

What we did on his ignition:
Start with the 30-1130 base map.
Verify all 3 coil packs are getting signal from the AEM (use the 4 pin connector that all 3 packs hook up to)
Set the motor BY HAND to #1 TDC, and verify timing marks on the cam gears and the harmonic balancer are pointing @ 0 on the timing markers.
Verify that the CPS is installed correctly (the two marks line up when you put it in)
Set your Ignition map to 10 across the board
Set your ignition parameter to 10
Go to Configure/ECU setup/Set Ignition
Set your timing light up and set by timing light to match up with the 10 you have in the Set Ignition variable

Verify SYNC comes on

You should be able to rock and roll from this point ;)

[Doward]

Offhand, no idea. I'll think on it more later. I've been finding all kinds of little problems on Jeff's car, so we're fine-toothed-combing it :)

What we did on his ignition:
Start with the 30-1130 base map.
Verify all 3 coil packs are getting signal from the AEM (use the 4 pin connector that all 3 packs hook up to)
Set the motor BY HAND to #1 TDC, and verify timing marks on the cam gears and the harmonic balancer are pointing @ 0 on the timing markers.
Verify that the CPS is installed correctly (the two marks line up when you put it in)
Set your Ignition map to 10 across the board
Set your ignition parameter to 10
Go to Configure/ECU setup/Set Ignition
Set your timing light up and set by timing light to match up with the 10 you have in the Set Ignition variable

Verify SYNC comes on

You should be able to rock and roll from this point ;)

[empera]

interesting...im pretty sure thats how we did it but i will try that again, should i be using fine or coarse ?

[Doward]

Personally, i set it at 10.07, and adjusted the CPS until we read 10 on the timing light.

[empera]

ah, could i possible see ur map? and get a list of mods?

[Doward]

It's on the laptop, but I should be able to get it over to you sometime this week.

You'll have to ask 7MBoost what his mods are :)

[empera]

ah ok wen u say 10* across the board u mean on negative engine load i assume?

[empera]

ok i think i got it.
another question...think im taking a risk in buying this?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Boost-Solenoid-AEM-EMS-4g63-Talon-Eclipse-Turbo-EVO-8_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ39Q3a1Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a15Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem260291949910QQitemZ260291949910

[figgie]

well you can buy it BUT i would make sure that the car is 100% running without one first.

[empera]

yea i just need a replacement for my aem truboost. im not planning on turning up the boost anytime soon. Want it everything to be set and perfect before i do so.

[simpsons7s]

Personally, i set it at 10.07, and adjusted the CPS until we read 10 on the timing light.

I did it that way as well. I was having trouble doing it other ways.

P.S. when your done with that comb send it my way:icon_bigg

[7Mboost]

ah, could i possible see ur map? and get a list of mods?

I can send you a map when we get some tuning on it.

62-1
FFIM
750cc
TRD cams
Slight head porting

How did I miss out on this thread so long! Thanks for all the replies, and John for figuring the AEM out for me, there's no way I could've set this up.

[chevyeater]

Regarding the injector wizard and battery offset, it is quite simple to make your own battery offset compensation table if your injectors aren't listed in the AEM wizard. Just vary battery voltage with the car running and watch and correct the A:F as nessicary. Of course, you need to have an otherwise stable A:F first.

My experience with impedance mismatch on AEM is similar to Mr. Reed's. No smoke but it runs like ass.

The AEM will switch from the cranking tables to the main tables depending on where you have the crank exit RPM set.

I think thier software and interface is vastly superior to nearly anything else available and I've tried most.

[92nsx]

Referring back to the boost solenoid, you can use a GM boost solenoid, GM Part # 1997152, and pigtails for the solenoid is GM Part # 12102747. It looks 10 times better then the big blue MAC valve that AEM uses, lower cost (less then $35 for both from rockauto) and works just as good.:)

[Doward]

I can send you a map when we get some tuning on it.

62-1
FFIM
750cc
TRD cams
Slight head porting

How did I miss out on this thread so long! Thanks for all the replies, and John for figuring the AEM out for me, there's no way I could've set this up.

Ha, wait till this weekend. Hopefully, all of these little leaks will be taken care of. You should post pics of the boost leak tester we built, too ;)

*edit*

Also, I was thinking Jeff - We should run the ISC solenoid tube back up in front of the throttle body. I know it will be a pain in the ass, but you're going to have a boost leak there if we just stick a filter on it!

[empera]

i'm still getting a miss on cruising...might be cause im 5* off but i will try to correct that thursday or friday before etown.

7mboost let me know wen u have a map ready, i just want to compare some small stuff.

thanks.

Referring back to the boost solenoid, you can use a GM boost solenoid, GM Part # 1997152, and pigtails for the solenoid is GM Part # 12102747. It looks 10 times better then the big blue MAC valve that AEM uses, lower cost (less then $35 for both from rockauto) and works just as good.:)

i actually do have that also, i was just debating on whether to use it not. wanted to have quicker control over boost, but the gm solenoid might be a better idea since i can have 2 settings.

Does anyone have a simple diagram of how to connect the the vac. lines on the gm solenoid, including which port goes where?

[tissimo]

Also, I was thinking Jeff - We should run the ISC solenoid tube back up in front of the throttle body. I know it will be a pain in the ass, but you're going to have a boost leak there if we just stick a filter on it!

ISC has a valve on it, seals off when the manifold enters boost.


Personally, i set it at 10.07, and adjusted the CPS until we read 10 on the timing light.

make sure to check the timing at higher rpm though as well. My timing would sway 3-4* on my celica. Adjusted it per the manual and stayed solid throughout the rpm range.

[empera]

yea im gonna go over it 2moro. hopefully it wont sway heh

[Doward]

ISC has a valve on it, seals off when the manifold enters boost.




make sure to check the timing at higher rpm though as well. My timing would sway 3-4* on my celica. Adjusted it per the manual and stayed solid throughout the rpm range.

Good call, I didn't mention that.

Jeff has a FFIM - and it doesn't have any placement for the stock ISC one-way valve, nor the little filter under there. Therefore, closed loop is the best way to go ;)

[empera]

ok another question for those using the gm boost solenoid, which ports go where
http://eclipse.erichmoraga.com/AEM/TiAL.jpg

[7Mboost]

Good call, I didn't mention that.

Jeff has a FFIM - and it doesn't have any placement for the stock ISC one-way valve, nor the little filter under there. Therefore, closed loop is the best way to go ;)

Can do! Sold the Legend today, maybe I'll even order hood struts :) lmfao!

[Doward]

Man, that would be nice to upgrade the SupraStick to OEM struts :D

[empera]

got the timing down. looks good didnt sway much.
i wanna hook up the gm solenoid but i wanna make sure im plumbing it correctly.
Here's how im going to do it. Please let me know if this is correct.
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n240/emp526/diagram.jpg

[empera]

anyone using traction control? would it be a smart idea to use this when launching?