Low coolant, but it refills itself.

[Phantom]

Well, the car had the low coolant light come on and I check the reservior and it was low on coolant. I checked it about an hour later it wasn't low anymore.

I remember that when the coolant had been flushed out and refilled, it was also burped. This was about 10 months ago.

Other than having it reburped, I'm not sure what else might have created the problem and how to solve that.

[CRE]

Interesting little fact: The coolant "overflow" tank is actually a full fledged reservoir!

As the system cools and as it heats up coolant contracts and expands... the excess is dumpered into the reservoir where it is later pulled from as things cool down....



In other words, ADD COOLANT TO THE RESERVOIR!

[jetjock]

"dumper"? At least you got "reservoir" right ;)

He's correct phantom. Add coolant mix to the reservoir so it's at the full mark when cold. It should always be very close to where you filled it but only when cold. Fwiw I made another mark higher up and keep it there so as to not have the light winking at me during hot cornering.

[CRE]

"dumper"? At least you got "reservoir" right ;)

Dere, I fixed it. :biglaugh:

[jdub]

Lmao!

[jetjock]

That's better ;)

Btw the coolant isn't pulled from the reservoir. It's pushed back in...but I won't nitpick :)

[Phantom]

Thanks for the inputs.

I added water so now the fluid is over the max line on the reservior.

[Frank Rizzo]

It should always be very close to where you filled it but only when cold.

I've noticed, that it is dependant on ambient temperature as to where the coolant level acutally comes to rest when fully cold. For example, when it is 30 degrees outside, it will be lower than when it is 90 degrees out. Keep in mind, the difference in level is less than a quarter inch give or take a little. And it should be consistant, if it goes from 30 degrees to 90 degrees ambient temp, then back to 30 degrees over the course of a year, the "30 degree" level should maintain as it did when it was last 30 degrees ambient temperature. I'm rambling so I'll shut up now. I also made my own mark on my bottle long ago....

[jetjock]

That's good rambling Frank because it's absolutely correct. It's why I said very close. Cold level will indeed vary with ambient but not by much. What it should not do is change overall. Not even a little. It's a sealed system and the best way to know everything is alright is to keep it sealed and monitor the cold level over time to establish normal. It's why I rarely take the radiator cap off. Not only is there no need but it corrupts (at least for a day or so) the "calibration".

[Phantom]

So about two days (about 2.5 months after I originally made this thread), I got into my car and noticed my low coolant light came on. So I stopped at a local shopping center and poured a bottle of water I had with me into the reservior, with made the light go away.

I probably need to drain and refill new coolant in there. But I'm kind of wondering if this may be a sign of BHG. I'm hoping the 7M-GE could hold together for at least another six months because now is not the time and I don't have the resources to rebuild it. Limited mechanical skills on my part is not good.

How much would a factory style (with retorque head bolts to 72 ft/lbs.) rebuild cost for a 7M-GE in term just parts alone (gaskets and such)?

[cuel]

Do you show any other symptoms? Water in the oil, loss of power, coolant on spark plugs, a steady miss, exhaust gases in the coolant? I'd lean more toward a slow leak somewhere, like a hose clamp that's a tiny bit loose, and dripping. Borrow a pressure tester from A.Z., and see what you find. I'd also check the coolant level in the radiator(when its cold), just to be sure it's not low.

[Phantom]

I don't know how to check for exhaust gasses in coolant, but I think there weren't any oil in the coolant in the reservior.

I haven't check for water in the oil. I suppose I'm to remove the oil filler cap and see if there is any coolant on it.

The car sometimes on the initial start-up of each day would crank and stall. I would wait a few seconds and when I attempt another start-up it'll be able start right up.

I'll probably replace the spark plugs and the coolant some time this upcoming week.

[87silverbullitt]

In terms of the low engine coolant, i think i may have the same problem. The engine coolant light stays on no matter what. However when i go to check the coolant level in the engine it always seems topped up. I noticed the other day that on certain turns the coolant light would go away and then as soon as i started going in a straight line it would come back on. Can anyone tell me if this is the same problem and how to fix it?

[Phantom]

Was the top off in the radiator or the coolant reservior?

[Phantom]

So the coolant and the spark plugs were replaced a couple of weeks ago.

I also replaced a hose was leaking coolant over the #3 spark plug (probably where the coolant leak was from).

I also noticed that after removing the y-pipe, the intake manifold looked kind of wet. Not sure if it was oil or coolant; is it suppose to be wet (I don't think so)?

All I could do in the meantime is continue to drive my car and hope I don't have a BHG for now. I'm thinking of getting a ITM rebuild kit and see if my friend can assist me in a rebuild. That's all for now.

[Clip]

i just got done with a ge rebuild, ran me about $4000

rebuilt head, new pistons, ground crank, decked block, all gaskets. also had arp rod bolts and head studs, and new clutch/pp

[626na]

could of got a 2jz^

[jgcable]

So the coolant and the spark plugs were replaced a couple of weeks ago.

I also replaced a hose was leaking coolant over the #3 spark plug (probably where the coolant leak was from).

I also noticed that after removing the y-pipe, the intake manifold looked kind of wet. Not sure if it was oil or coolant; is it suppose to be wet (I don't think so)?

All I could do in the meantime is continue to drive my car and hope I don't have a BHG for now. I'm thinking of getting a ITM rebuild kit and see if my friend can assist me in a rebuild. That's all for now.


Sounds certainly like a BHG. Have a leak down test performed. A repair shop will do it for around $90.00 if you aren't sure how to do it.

[suprarx7nut]

i just got done with a ge rebuild, ran me about $4000

rebuilt head, new pistons, ground crank, decked block, all gaskets. also had arp rod bolts and head studs, and new clutch/pp

O_O :eek: :aigo:

Dude..... full, freshly rebuilt GTE would have been about that much if you did some of the work. i hope that price includes a lot of labor. That crazy for a GE...



could of got a 2jz^

That too.


Phantom: My bhg fix cost me ~$500 after all was said and done. That included new coolant hoses (3-5 of them), ARP studs, Toyota HG, Used head w/ new valve seals and machined flat, helicoil kit and some other small pieces.

If you pay a shop to do it, it will likely cost 1500-2000.



To check for oil in water, look under oil cap: If you see a milky, light brown color, milkshake-like substance you have a bhg.

To check your coolant for oil, see if it's brown? :dunno:

To check for exhaust gases in coolant: Get a block test kit; sometimes called combustion gas test kit.

If you keep losing coolant look on the exhaust side of the block and search for dribbles of coolant. Many hoses on that side can develop small leaks that may only leak when hot and be evaporated from you exhaust heat. I was losing coolant for some time after my bhg fix with no leaks on the ground.

See my sig link for more bhg info. :)

[Phantom]

Wow, $4,000 for a rebuilt 7M-GE?!

I might as well put that money to get a daily car and have the MA70 sit out for while
But then again, that must be one well-built 7M-GE that can perform.

As much as I hope it's not a BHG, I need the motor to last for at least another three months. I'm in the middle of my semester here.

I'm glad you did a write for your 7M-GE, suprarx7nut. I will use it as a guide. Did you order all your gaskets through Toyota? I was thinking of getting a ITM full engine gasket kit like the one mentioned by Rennat on this page
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=78540&highlight=felpro+rebuild+gasket

I got lost among the felpro versus stone kit. At a local Toyota parts department, I remember that had a 22R head set made by ITM, so I thought like "oh, if the dealership is selling it, it must be good!"

I can't afford to fork over a grand for a rebuild of the 7M-GE. I'm hoping a friend of mine would be able to help me rebuild it since I'm a novice and haven't rebuilt any engine before...so on top of the ~ $500 for the parts I'm hoping that he won't charged me more than $200 for labor.

Is the block test the same thing as a compression test for the engine?

Other than that, thanks for all the info that you all have provided.

[AJ'S 88NA]

Compression test and block test are different. Block test kit you can get at NAPA, it will test for compression gases in the coolant. Compression test and leak down test most times will show a BHG.

[suprarx7nut]

I got the cheapo gasket kit from Mizumo auto parts on ebay. I used a Toyota OEM head gasket straight from the dealer. DO NOT use an el-cheapo head gasket. ;) Honestly, for the intake gaskets I don't really need to have the nicest gasket. The exhaust manifold gasket, however, you may want to buy from toyota. Up to you.

Block test is very different. Compression tests the cylinders for pressure(tests rings, walls, valves and head gasket), while a block test or combustion gas test checks the coolant for exhaust gases which can be a tell tale sign of a BHG. the kit should be about 50 bucks and gives you some special container with vacuum hose and some [usually blue] fluid. It will have instructions on how to use it.

Feel free to PM me with any questions. I'm generally pretty busy, but I dont mind answering quick questions to help some members here out. :)

[Phantom]

So, an update is that the motor is still running.

My plan now is to rebuild the motor while taking an engine repair course at the city college. I will be enrolled in a few months. Still have got to figure a few other things out before then, such as what I'll be able to drive while rebuilding the motor or whether to buy a junkyard 7MGE and rebuild that while I'm driving my Supra with the existing motor still running.

Still haven't decided which gasket kit to go with, but I suppose I'll be going with a Stone kit or a ITM kit. Debating whether to use the head gasket that comes with those kits or to just get an OEM head gasket from Toyota. Are the head gasket in the Stone kit or ITM kit good? I would assume so, but any inputs would be appreciated.

For sure I have to get ARP head bolts.

[Rennat]

partsdinosaur.com

had zero issues with any of their gaskets... except the throttle body one... which everybody has a problem with. nothing a razor blade cant fix.

but if your going to go through the trouble to use arp head bolts/studs, then get a metal head gasket, the cometic has a "rougher" finish spec. i believe its 50RA. and the hks is 30RA.

If you can, get a junkyard engine and fix that, that way your not going to be stranded for a long time.

[Phantom]

partsdinosaur.com

had zero issues with any of their gaskets... except the throttle body one... which everybody has a problem with. nothing a razor blade cant fix.

but if your going to go through the trouble to use arp head bolts/studs, then get a metal head gasket, the cometic has a "rougher" finish spec. i believe its 50RA. and the hks is 30RA.

If you can, get a junkyard engine and fix that, that way your not going to be stranded for a long time.

I thought I would have to machine the cylinder head and the block for a metal head gasket. My budget would not be able to fit any machining work.
If I can install a metal head gasket without any machining work that would be great. Is it okay if I did this?

I'm going with the ARP head bolts because I wouldn't be able to torque the stock Toyota head bolts to 72 ft. lbs.

Or could I actually retorque the factory Toyota head bolts up to 72 ft. lbs.?

So the only modification for the ITM kit was just the one throttle body gasket?

[jgcable]

I thought I would have to machine the cylinder head and the block for a metal head gasket. My budget would not be able to fit any machining work.
If I can install a metal head gasket without any machining work that would be great. Is it okay if I did this?

I'm going with the ARP head bolts because I wouldn't be able to torque the stock Toyota head bolts to 72 ft. lbs.

Or could I actually retorque the factory Toyota head bolts up to 72 ft. lbs.?

So the only modification for the ITM kit was just the one throttle body gasket?

You should order new bolts from a Toyota Dealer if you don't want to spend the extra bucks for ARP bolts. You can tork them to 72 ft.lbs. no problem. Don't reuse your existing factory bolts. Also.. make sure you do a retorque after around 5-7 heat cycles or a few hundred miles.

[AJ'S 88NA]

No you can't use a MHG without machining the block and the head.

[jdub]

If the head bolts on the motor right now are at factory torque, I'd re-use them in a heartbeat ;)
Torque to 70-75 ft/lbs and call it a day.

If you get ARP bolts, use the ARP spec...75 ft/lbs on an aluminum head using moly for lube. ARP studs are better...the spec is 85 ft/lbs using moly.

The block and head decks MUST be flat regardless of the type HG used...you need to check both!

Make sure you chase the block bolt holes regardless of the head bolts used.

You can use copper spray on an OEM composite gasket...a couple coats, wait till tacky and lay it on the block deck using the index pins for alignment. You get one chance to do this right.

[Phantom]

Thanks everyone.

I might be going towards an ITM engine gasket kit.

jdub, I am guessing that "chase the block bolt holes" means to clean the bolt holes.

Thanks for the bolt specs.

[jdub]

It does do that, but requires a tool similar to a tap. And it's called.....a chaser! :biglaugh:
It deburs the threads and preps the hole for the longer thread length studs.