Shifting to reverse problematic

[TomFraser]

When I start my car it is inside a garage and I must backup... if I put the clutch down (obviously all the way) and attempt to put the car in reverse, I get a noise (not very loud, but a grinding, with vibrations I can feel in the drivers seat) and then it shifts and runs fine.

When I Push the clutch and shift to any other gear (usually 3rd) then continue holding the clutch and shift to reverse it works fine.

However if I pick the clutch up after doing this, then go to neutral I have to do the third then reverse trick.


Any ideas what this might be? It is no problem for me to do this, however It shouldn't be happening and I do not want the problem to escalate.


Thanks!
(If anyone requests I can record the noise, but I do not like making it)

Tom Fraser

[TomFraser]

Also I have my air intake looking like this:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3082/2567262199_8374e87158_b.jpg

does anyone know what specific part that is? I do not want to take duct tape off the previous owner put on until I can replace the part.

Thanks!

[cuel]

Push in the clutch, put it in reverse, hold the clutch while you start the car. :) Reverse can be a pain, but I don't recall feeling a vibration in mine.

For the intake, you can get a new boot at the dealer. They can print you a pic. with part numbers, and you tell them which one you want.

[TomFraser]

the problem is that I feel grinding and vibration that are not normal... I know how to drive stick

the noise occurs even before I let go of the clutch... it occurs when moving the stick into reverse (AND THE CLUTCH IS ALL THE WAY DOWN), and to be honest I do not have much experience with mechanics so I do not know what the problem could even be.


Thanks for the reply about the boot though

[cuel]

Ok, ok. No need to get mad, just yankin' your chain a bit. Not sure about the vibration and grind. Could be a worn shift fork and a bad mount, or a bearing issue inside the case. You should probably stop at a trans. shop, and let them take a look at it.

[CRE]

I'd check the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder.... the clutch may not be disengaging all the way. The fluid reservoir is the clear funnel with black plastic cap mounted in the engine bay on the firewall, driver's side.

[DegreE]

I get a loud grind every time I try to get it into reverse. Every other gear is flawless. Sometimes it wont even go in.

[CRE]

Straight cut gear and no syncros, IIRC, not 100% sure I'm not a transmission guy. Pop the tranny into first real quick, then shift... a LOT of cars are like that. It's nothing new. I never get a grind when I try to go into reverse and the clutch pressed though.

[TomFraser]

Push in the clutch, put it in reverse, hold the clutch while you start the car. :) Reverse can be a pain, but I don't recall feeling a vibration in mine.

For the intake, you can get a new boot at the dealer. They can print you a pic. with part numbers, and you tell them which one you want.


Ok, ok. No need to get mad, just yankin' your chain a bit. Not sure about the vibration and grind. Could be a worn shift fork and a bad mount, or a bearing issue inside the case. You should probably stop at a trans. shop, and let them take a look at it.

not mad at all... just trying to make myself clear... it's hard to express emotions on the internet :icon_bigg


Thanks for all the advice given above... At least I know it happens to other supras

[AJ'S 88NA]

How long has it been since you changed your fluid? Sometime fresh fluid can make a difference. Most like Redline MT-90 from what I've seen on here.

[TomFraser]

How long has it been since you changed your fluid? Sometime fresh fluid can make a difference. Most like Redline MT-90 from what I've seen on here.

just topped it off, because it was low... I will try changing fluid and post what happens here


Thanks

[CRE]

At least I know it happens to other supras

Indeed, but so do engine fires... so I wouldn't just assume that because it happens to someone else it's fine. ;)

I'd would check master cylinder levels, then change out the oil and then take it to a shop for a look over.

I do like MT-90, BTW.

[TomFraser]

Indeed, but so do engine fires... so I wouldn't just assume that because it happens to someone else it's fine. ;)

I'd would check master cylinder levels, then change out the oil and then take it to a shop for a look over.

I do like MT-90, BTW.

by that I meant that if it has happened to others then others are more likely to have a solution. :)

If I post symptoms and no one has seen them on a supra before, then something is probably really wrong because this forum has more knowledge of this particuar car than toyota/any garage :love:

[Scot]

This might be a stretch, but did you try releasing the parking break before you try to go in reverse?

[TomFraser]

This might be a stretch, but did you try releasing the parking break before you try to go in reverse?

yeah... tried that


thanks for the post though

[DegreE]

This might be a stretch, but did you try releasing the parking break before you try to go in reverse?


What would the e-brake have to do with anything?

[CRE]

Here's the part number for the taped up hose: 17346-42020

It lists for $80 something, but you can get one here: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=213747 for $67.


Inexpensive alternatives:

If both sides are the same diameter you could probably get one of these to fit ($17):
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/index.php?cPath=4&osCsid=39f3d1c31cc2156b3ab348a9f201a444

If each side is a different diameter look at these ($20):
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/index.php?cPath=14&osCsid=17b2f15f4d82bf5bd3179473c6f3ad9a

[DegreE]

Or just spend $30 at vatozone and buy the universal intake pipe. I little trimming and it will fit nicely between the TB and AFM.

I have it on my car becasue my stock pipe had a 2 inch rip in it. You can also paint it black to keep it looking OEM.

[TomFraser]

Here's the part number for the taped up hose: 17346-42020

It lists for $80 something, but you can get one here: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=213747 for $67.


Inexpensive alternatives:

If both sides are the same diameter you could probably get one of these to fit ($17):
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/index.php?cPath=4&osCsid=39f3d1c31cc2156b3ab348a9f201a444

If each side is a different diameter look at these ($20):
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/index.php?cPath=14&osCsid=17b2f15f4d82bf5bd3179473c6f3ad9a



WOW... thanks for looking all that up for me! will probbably buy the one from trademotion.com



I figure if I am going to flush the transmision I might as well have a shop do leak tests and such... what is the max I should pay for the fluid change (if I provide redline) and have them inspect for leaks?


Thanks so much for the prompt replies!

[DegreE]

Its hella easy to change the fluid in a M/T.

[Scot]

What would the e-brake have to do with anything?

Good question that I cannot answer. Other than there are times when mine doesn't easily go into reverse and just by releasing the parking break gets the job done... It must bind up somehow some way, and relesing the break frees it. Again, I cannot provide a solid answer...

[suprarx7nut]

I dont understand why people have trouble getting into reverse.

It's simple: Car running in neutral, release clutch so tranny spins, push in clutch, wait 1-2 seconds, put into reverse while tranny is still slowing down.

This is all done while car is stationary in case that wasn't clear. Works eveytime, 100% of the time.

[TomFraser]

Its hella easy to change the fluid in a M/T.

yeah... drain and dump in the stick, but I was gonna get it checked for leaks anyways, and hopefully the shop will clean and do a 100% flush out...

should I just do it myself? is the "100 percent flush, and clean" a rip off?

Either way I have to order redline online so I was hoping someone might know how much I should buy?

[TomFraser]

I dont understand why people have trouble getting into reverse.

It's simple: Car running in neutral, release clutch so tranny spins, push in clutch, wait 1-2 seconds, put into reverse while tranny is still slowing down.

This is all done while car is stationary in case that wasn't clear. Works eveytime, 100% of the time.

This is exactly as I have done it since I started driving a manual... doesn't work for the supra unless I shift to another gear then without letting go of clutch shift into reverse.

actually I usually end up waiting more than 1-2 seconds, probably closer to 5 or 6, is that what I am doing wrong?

Once the stick is in the reverse position I have no problem driving the car, it just grinds when putting it into reverse unless I put it into another gear first

[DegreE]

yeah... drain and dump in the stick, but I was gonna get it checked for leaks anyways, and hopefully the shop will clean and do a 100% flush out...

should I just do it myself? is the "100 percent flush, and clean" a rip off?

Either way I have to order redline online so I was hoping someone might know how much I should buy?

what stick?

IMO the whole flush and clean idea is a rip off. You want your tranny to be clean? Take it apart, inspect it, and rebuild it.

Just drain the fluid and put new fluid back in it.

[TomFraser]

what stick?


take out the shifter and put it in through there

[CRE]

yeah... drain and dump in the stick, but I was gonna get it checked for leaks anyways, and hopefully the shop will clean and do a 100% flush out...

should I just do it myself? is the "100 percent flush, and clean" a rip off?

Either way I have to order redline online so I was hoping someone might know how much I should buy?

Careful on having it inspected for leaks... no inspection plate on the W58. I think they'll have to pull the tranny part way to really check the input shaft seal.

Half the time a flush is a rip... personally, I'd just fill it with some cheap gear oil for a day or two, then drain that and replace it with the good stuff.

W58 takes 2.5 US Quarts... no more, no less.


Here are the lubrication specs for the 7M Supras: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=A&P=35

[TomFraser]

I'd just fill it with some cheap gear oil for a day or two


should I drive it for a certain amount of miles after this or just be sure to go though all the gears a few times?

[DegreE]

take out the shifter and put it in through there

An easy way to overfill and more of a pain in the ass if you use that method IMO.


Just buy a $5 hand pump and pump it in thru the fill hole. Once it starts to pour out of the fill hole, you're done.

Then with the rest of the fluid, do a drain and fill to your diff aswell. I just did mine and it took me 2 quarts.

[CRE]

should I drive it for a certain amount of miles after this or just be sure to go though all the gears a few times?

I'd just drive it normally for a day or two (highway and city). It's not going to get the thing as spotless as flushing it with really nasty detergents, but it'll help remove a decent amount of the garbage that's just sitting in there.

[TomFraser]

Thanks... I will probably put the first batch of tranny fluid in this weekend, will update