View Full Version : Alright, so it's not rod knock, but get this!
Alpha WereFox
06-04-2008, 07:34 PM
Alright guys. I think I narrowed it down today. I was driving around, went to 2 garages (I get off at 5, and most close by then) and got some ideas. The one garage told me he had to take my car apart and find what was wrong, at that point I left that one and said goodbye. The 2nd garage was closer and told me its coming from the timing belt and pully tensioner making noise. So then I went to Advance Auto to get some prices on timing belts and pulleys and to also talk to a guy I used to work with there at a different AA. When me and him both went outside took look at the motor, I noticed something way outta wack for the first time. I told my friend about how the last garage said it was something to do with the timing belt. So we we're looking down there with the motor running and saw the crank pully, the one with the 3 belts, VIBRATING at idle, a decent amount too! But when you rev it up, it "balanced" itself out and the noise goes away for the most part. That would explain why the noise is louder underneath and why I can feel that vibration all the way in my shift knob. Because that vibration is going thru the crank into the tranny. Right? So anyways my friend told me the harmonic balancer (do Supras have that?) is either fooked up, or the crank inside is bent making it vibrate like that. And if it is bent, he said its scarring all the bottom end parts with it. Does this make sense to you guys? I tried to explain it the best I can. If you have question feel free to ask me. I really wanna figure this out and see if its a major problem. Any advice? Something else to look for? :1zhelp:
Isphius
06-04-2008, 07:43 PM
your crank pulley could be chewed up inside, if you look at Wills(s383memeber1) build thread youll see what i mean. Pull the pulley off and make sure its ok. Its not THAT hard to get off. Do that and whatever is wrong should become apparent
It's a major/expensive problem and the more you keep driving it the more expensive it gets.
AJ'S 88NA
06-04-2008, 08:10 PM
Yes ^^ and you may have already "hammered" the mains, at least the front. Good luck.
Alpha WereFox
06-05-2008, 08:48 AM
Do 7mge's have harmonic balancers? three people told me its that. if so where can i get one and about how much? advance auto cant get one.
wade3570
06-05-2008, 08:50 AM
don't know if this helps, but i recently rebuilt my motor because of #6 rod knock. Before the rebuild, my mechanic and i noticed pulley wobble as well. We tore everything apart and discovered that the key-way on the harmonic balancer was all chewed up, so was the crank snout where it slips onto. I ended up replacing both the crank & balancer pulley as well as a new woodruff key. (and of course the rod bearings & everything else involved with a rebuild) Pulley spins great and wobble-free! hope that gives some insight to your issue & good luck.
Alpha WereFox
06-05-2008, 09:16 AM
Thanks for the info, not something I wanted to hear. I hope mines not that bad but it probably is. :icon_mad:
Do 7mge's have harmonic balancers? three people told me its that. if so where can i get one and about how much? advance auto cant get one.
The front pully is the harmonic damper on our cars, it's normally done up to "FT" (195 ft/lbs) and is a slight press fit, the Key and Keyway are only to locate it so #1 TDC timing mark is correct.
If the Bolt is loose the damper shuffles backward and forwards each time you accelerate or back off wearing the Key and keyway this in turn opens up the hole and wears the crank snout removing the press fit so even if you install a new damper and key and tighten it to 195 ft/lbs chances are it will just happen again.
Tanya
06-05-2008, 05:58 PM
You now need (most likely) a new (or remanned) crankshaft, new crank pulley, new timing cog, and new keys for them. Might as well just rebuild the whole thing or get a new engine, depending on how deep you want to get into this.
Isphius
06-05-2008, 09:21 PM
read wills build thread like i said. I believe shaeff fixed it with JB weld or something like that. heres a link. may have to read a few pages. Better get it off to at least check it out right away though
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29149
Alpha WereFox
06-08-2008, 02:28 AM
Well my Supra is back on the road. My sisters boyfriend lives near a guy with a Supra and I got a crank bolt off him. Only crappy part is my crank bolt keeps coming loose so I'm constantly checking it and tightening it. Oh well I'll figure something out maybe. :runaway:
Poodles
06-08-2008, 02:38 AM
The front pully is the harmonic damper on our cars, it's normally done up to "FT" (195 ft/lbs) and is a slight press fit, the Key and Keyway are only to locate it so #1 TDC timing mark is correct.
If the Bolt is loose the damper shuffles backward and forwards each time you accelerate or back off wearing the Key and keyway this in turn opens up the hole and wears the crank snout removing the press fit so even if you install a new damper and key and tighten it to 195 ft/lbs chances are it will just happen again.
THIS is your problem ^^
Sometimes I wonder why I bother..... :nono:
You mean well, but no one really listens to old people... So here's a young person. Quit being a noob, fix the problem. This does not even qualify as a band aid.
Time for a rebuild, my friend.
suprahero
06-08-2008, 08:54 AM
You mean well, but no one really listens to old people...
:ban:.........:biglaugh:
Sometimes I wonder why I bother..... :nono:
X2
AJ'S 88NA
06-08-2008, 01:04 PM
Did I see JB Weld mentioned to correct this problem?
I had one here that had been "repaired" using DevconA Ti Epoxy......
Took me half a day and EVERY tool I own to remove it totally trashing the front of the motor. <shaking head at some of the morons that work on these cars>
^^ Wow. That's some pretty serious epoxy.
Cuel: Yep the shit does NOT let go!
I destroyed two pullers and ended up using the Oxy Torch and 2 prybars after trying everything I could think of.
I just googled it(Devcon epoxy (http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc159/cuel101/carupload.jpg)). They have a 2 ton adhesive epoxy that can be used structurally, and will work on anything. Cool, as I was looking for something like this to do some thin sheet metal work. Thanks :)
Alpha WereFox
06-08-2008, 05:09 PM
No money for a rebuild and it's my only car to get to work everyday. I'll get it tightened down more. Don't worry guys!
Cuel: Very welcome!
It's brilliant stuff if used correctly!
I've used it to repair gouges in parts then remachined em and they work perfectly.
Tanya
06-08-2008, 05:10 PM
^Have fun trashing your crank.
edit* to OP, not IJ
<--- been down this road twice.
Big Wang Bandit
06-08-2008, 05:41 PM
Have fun fucking your car up beyond repair.
You lose, good day sir!
Alpha: Use some locktite on the bolt, as it might help it stay tight a bit longer. I wouldn't recommend this to anyone, but if you get creative with a large pipe wrench, there is a way to hold the front pulley while you torque the bolt. Beware: It is quite possible to break the pulley if not done very carefully. Also, some financial advice: start saving as much as possible. Sooner or later(sooner than later, as it appears), you're gonna need a new motor, or a new car.
suprahero
06-08-2008, 10:41 PM
IJ, all you really needed to get it apart was one redneck and a rubber hammer.
AJ'S 88NA
06-08-2008, 11:08 PM
IJ, all you really needed to get it apart was one redneck and a rubber hammer.
Sounds like 2 rednecks and a sledge hammer:)
suprahero
06-08-2008, 11:14 PM
It all depends on the redneck.
lol, tell the redneck you have to get that pulley off to get to the crank, and he'll be all over it. Course, he's gonna be pissed off when he tries to snort it...
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