Coolant filter pics

[jetjock]

Changed my coolant filter recently. Thought you guys might like to see it, especially any who feel such filtration is a waste of time. This filter was in service one year on a well maintained cooling system.

[Yellow 13]

Neat.

[tlo86]

where do you hook that thing up to? ive actually been interested in installing one yet its a hard topic to search :):)

[jetjock]

It's inline with the TB/ISCV hoses:

[tlo86]

where are you buying the filters at? ;)

[jetjock]

I get 'em from fleetfilters.com or filterbarn.com, same places I get most of my filters. They're Donaldson (a premier filter maker not involved in the auto market) but without the supplemental cooling additives. Do not run SCAs in a gas engine.

Napa and Wix also sell equivalents but they can be spendy. Keep in mind such filters have a special stud thread and will require a matching mount. You can get them at trucking places but much better and cheaper is to get a marine fuel/water separator mount from any boat store or ebay. About $20. It's the same thread.

Having said that any oil filter mount and oil filter will work fine. I just happen to like Donaldson quality. Change it once a year or whenever you change coolant.

[WhtMa71]

hum. Thats pretty neat. God only knows what my cooling system looks like.

So you're saying you can do the same thing with a regular filter mount and any ol' oil filter(like a wix)? Might give this setup a try sometime.

[quake]

I get 'em from fleetfilters.com or filterbarn.com, same places I get most of my filters. They're Donaldson (a premier filter maker but uninvolved in the auto market) but without the supplemental cooling additives. Do not run SCAs in a gas engine.

Napa and Wix also sell equivalents but they can be spendy. Keep in mind such filters have a special stud thread and will require a matching mount. You can get them at trucking places but much better and cheaper is to get a marine fuel/water separator mount from any boat store or ebay. About $20. It's the same thread.

Having said that any oil filter mount and oil filter will work fine. I just happen to like Donaldson quality. Change it once a year or whenever you change coolant.
are you running the toyota red coolant?

[tlo86]

so my spare oil relocation should work fine, cool. :) thanks for posting the information



i run toyota red quake:D is there a problem though with them running to a filter?

[jetjock]

I run Glysantin:

http://tinyurl.com/4zfb2e

Also known as G-O5. It's an HOAT coolant sold in the US by Ashland Chemical (Vavoline).

[Rennat]

how come this has never been mentioned before? hell... i've NEVER even heard of this... lol

but you can use a regular oil filter on the coolant? (makes sense to me)

[jetjock]

It has been mentioned before. Several times. Some people even use a toilet paper filter on their coolant. That would seem not to make sense but in reality it works fine. I prefer this filter for coolant but I do use TP on my oil.

Coolant filters are common in the trucking industry but they typically use SCAs. An oil filter will work fine. Use whatever you use on the engine. That way you'll only have to stock one part and will always have a filter.

[Rennat]

and the only real benefit to this is just keeping the coolant cleaner?

couldnt you like pull the lines up to make it the highest point while you fill through it to bleed all of the air out?

[johnathan1]

Does that setup come as a kit? Looks great. What does SCA stand for?

[jetjock]

Not a kit but easy to do. SCA means Supplemental Coolant Additives. Time released chemicals stored in the filters used on diesels to make the coolant last a long time. When you have a fleet of trucks with cooling systems measuring in many gallons coolant costs add up.

Rennat: Do you want that stuff circulating around your system? Through your water pump seal, heater core, and radiator? I don't but I confess to being anal about filtration. This and other filters have been on my car 19 years, even before the warranty ran out.

As for Glysantin I've studied coolant and feel it's chemistry is superior to Toyota's, which I haven't used in a long time. Besides, BASF knows a thing or two about chemicals in general and antifreeze in particular. They invented the stuff. Glysantin has a history going back 75 years and has been the factory fill for every Mercedes since day one as well as now being factory installed in all Chryslers and Fords. It's approved for use in every Toyota of this vintage. Don't get me wrong though: Toyota's OAT chemistry without 2-EHA is pretty good. As I said, I'm just anal.

The filter collects crap no matter which coolant I've used. After all it's a tough environment in there. Fwiw the car is only on it's second radiator since new and none of the hoses show OCD. Hell, the lower radiator hose is original. You read that right: 21 years old. Still checks out fine but since I have a new one lying around I really ought to change it one of these days.

[jdub]

and the only real benefit to this is just keeping the coolant cleaner?

couldnt you like pull the lines up to make it the highest point while you fill through it to bleed all of the air out?

It's a significant benefit...as you can see from JJ's pics, that filter caught quite a bit of crap floating around the coolant system. That stuff can accumulate in the radiator, cutting efficiency to the point of blockage over time. Considering all the problems you see on a Mk III cooling system, I call that worthwhile ;)

Edit: Hehe...JJ beat me ;)

BTW - this is on my agenda to do as well. Been talking to JJ of and on for a while about G-05 coolant and doing research myself on it...came to the same conclusion, HOAT chemistry is superior to your std coolant and the Toyota Red. For the filter, I plan on using the line that feeds the TB and ISCV for the filter feed and return to the block hard line the same way....it hardly ever gets cold enough in AZ to affect removal and the TB on the FFIM I'm going to use has no provision for coolant anyway. One thing about changing to HOAT coolant is you want to make sure the old stuff is thoroughly flushed from the system with water. Std coolant and HOAT don't play well together ;)

[Nick M]

I don't but I confess to being anal


Gotcha. :biglaugh:

And there I was going to ask, "what, no toilet paper?".

A coolant flush is a part of the scheduled services. As often as 15,000 miles from what I remember. It has been 4 years since I had a Toyota shirt on at work. Nice work JJ.

[jetjock]

I actually have some dissected radiator core pics around here somewhere from a car I repaired a few months back. I'll post 'em up if I can find them. Not a pretty sight.

Nick: I also have opinions on what's best for flushes. Don't get me started ;)

[Enraged]

wow, never though about this, but it's a very good idea. i think i'll look into it, as the car is still apart and i need to finish the coolant lines anyways...

out of curiousity, would there be any downside to installing a shutoff valve on the inlet and outlet of the filter, or would you only change the filter when replacing all of the coolant?

[ArpuS oG]

i need one of thos i just mix all the colors like a rainbow cuz my cars gay :icon_bigg

[Justin]

where the hell does that stuff come from??

[HommerSimpson]

Got any more pics of your car JJ ? and engine
Ty
Greg

[Justin]

Got any more pics of your car JJ ? and engine
Ty
Greg

Yeah, I'd like to see some too actually.

I cannot remember ever seeing any.

[WhtMa71]

Ok on lost on the TP comment..Where would toilet paper come into play?

[johnathan1]

Ok on lost on the TP comment..Where would toilet paper come into play?

A full roll of toilet paper is used as an oil filter. Works quite well apparently.

[Justin]

A full roll of toilet paper is used as an oil filter. Works quite well apparently.

Single, or double ply? Charmin or Scott?

[jdub]

It sure does...got a MotorGuard bypass filter (uses a roll of TP) on my Toyota truck. Filters down to 1 micron ;)
Way over kill for particulates, but that is what it does...the oil is analytically clean and the TP absorbs moisture. JJ has on on his supra as well in the charcoal canister location. All you have to do is move the CC under the wheel well.

LOL...Scott 1000 sheet single ply ;)

[WhtMa71]

lol "so what kind of oil filter do you use?".."a roll of toilet paper."

[jdub]

Yeah...it does get "looks" :D

Keep in mind this is a bypass filter. You use it in addition to the usual full flow filter.

[WhtMa71]

Gotcha..So a dual filter head would need to be used. I just figured toilet paper would disintegrate in oil.Apparently i would be wrong.

[CTsupra]

Changed my coolant filter recently. Thought you guys might like to see it, especially any who feel such filtration is a waste of time. This filter was in service one year on a well maintained cooling system.

I'm sold.

[shaeff]

Since JJ posted last, I've been sold on this idea 100% :) Thanks for jogging my memory, as well as sharing the pics. I can only imagine what 90% of the cars here look like if yours had the above debris in it!

[Zumtizzle]

Having said that any oil filter mount and oil filter will work fine. I just happen to like Donaldson quality. Change it once a year or whenever you change coolant.

Hmmmmm. Any Reason i shouldn't do this JJ?

Ian told me you had one and i assumed it was a Tefba.

http://i17.ebayimg.com/06/i/000/ag/9d/a98e_1.JPG

Edit: Read Through it, Disregard.

[Frank Rizzo]

where the hell does that stuff come from??

It comes from the engine block, the water by pass pipes, the radiator, the heater core, the cylinder head, the water pump, basically any metal that comes in contact with coolant.

[jdub]

Gotcha..So a dual filter head would need to be used. I just figured toilet paper would disintegrate in oil. Apparently i would be wrong.

The MotorGuard is a completely separate circuit...you could tap off the turbo feed line (or the unused port forward of the oil pressure sensor) and return to the cooler port on the pan. The MotorGuard uses an orifice...only a small amount is passed through the filter, hence the term "bypass filter". TP actually gets stronger in contact with oil...it holds together very well as a result.

You can use a dual filter head set-up with another bypass filter called a Trasko...complete different design. It does use what is essentially a roll of TP that's cut down to fit the housing...you have to buy the filter elements from Trasko though.

Frank nailed it...you'd be amazed what a coolant filter catches, as shown in JJ's pics ;)

[jetjock]

The Tefba is a full flow filter and filters nowhere near as fine but it's better than nothing. Easy install and very easy to clean.

TP filters are depth filters in that oil is slowly forced through the entire roll in contrast to a full flow surface filter. That's why a depth filter must be used in bypass mode. It could never flow enough to feed the engine. On the other hand it's the depth filtration and slow flow that cleans the fluid being filtered so well.

Mine is sourced off a sandwich adapter and returned through an orifice to one of the hex plugs in the #3 cylinder cover. What's interesting about the set up is *all* the oil my engine receives, other than the tiny amount going through the filter that gets dumped to the head, has to go through a single 1/4 inch hole in the sandwich plate.

Dub: The real looks come when cruising the supermarket TP isle opening packages and measuring rolls. I also prefer Scotts 1000. It's wound tighter than Frank on a bad day (j/k Frank) but institutional stuff is great too.

[johnathan1]

What exactly are those whitish flakes that the filter caught? I'm assuming some sort or deposit? :dunno:

Have you ever heard of the "Citrus Flush" that Mercedes uses? That is what the people over on the Mercedes forums seem to recommend...they also mention the use of food grade Citric acid to "flush" the system...just wondering how effective (if at all) that would be...

[jdub]

JJ - I'm still using the air filters that came with the MotorGuard...talk about wound up tight! I've got a few rolls of the Scotts ready to go when these are done ;)

[gtsfirefighter]

I learned something new today!:)

[isnms]

Wow, when I see that, I tremble to think what is floating around in my cooling system.
Thanks for sharing.
Note to self - more stuff for 'to do' list

[ILikeCarsYesIDo]

In for pics of JJ's engine.

[Frank Rizzo]

Ha.

You guys make me smile.

I'm telling ya, it's these 12 hour work days that really get to me. All for the love of money.

[jdub]

JJ - If I remember correctly, on the coolant filter change last year the filter media looked a lot cleaner.
Why do you think it caught so much debris this year?

Edit: Found the thread ;)
JJ's 2007 Coolant Filter Pics (http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49260)

[johnathan1]

What exactly are those whitish flakes that the filter caught? I'm assuming some sort or deposit? :dunno:

Have you ever heard of the "Citrus Flush" that Mercedes uses? That is what the people over on the Mercedes forums seem to recommend...they also mention the use of food grade Citric acid to "flush" the system...just wondering how effective (if at all) that would be...

Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?

[Frank Rizzo]

What exactly are those whitish flakes that the filter caught? I'm assuming some sort or deposit?

Junk can come from cavitation erosion, electrolysis, precipitation of the salts used in a coolants' additive package

[jetjock]

Jdub: Some of it is from the oxalic acid flush I do every two years, the last of which was last year after making that post. It's hard to completely get all the crap out after using that stuff because it's so effective. It's another reason I use the filter. The next one will have less in it, same as the one from last year.

Edit: For those who asked a pic of my engine can be seen in the thread mentioned above.

[jdub]

Ahhh...that makes sense. The flush lossens all the crap up ;)

[johnathan1]

So the Citric Acid "flush" works well?

[jetjock]

Citric is pretty mild stuff. It's fine as long as you start out with a clean system and stay on top of it. Oxalic acid is at the other end of the spectrum. Powerful enough that it requires neutralization after use. You can always cut down the amount used though and that's what I do. Even it won't unplug a radiator too far gone because it can't flow in there to get at the stuff.

Here's an example. This is a center section cut from a radiator I replaced for someone a few months ago. The compliant was temperature rise, but only on the highway after long drives and only when the OAT rose above 65 F or so. He could reduce temp by using the heater. That proved the water pump was OK but the other combination of conditions nearly always indicate radiator problems.

Removal of his t-stat showed zero excess cooling capacity e.g. the temp gage indicated the same as with the stat installed. Coolant looked good until I ran some through a coffee filter: fine rust. The coolant was Toyota and had been in there 2 years.

A scan of the radiator with my IR gun showed the center section to be 90-100 F and the difference between the upper and lower hose was only 20 F when it should have been around 50+ F. The rad looked pretty good with the tanks cut open and as you can see the center section also look decent but opening a couple of channels shows the real story. A new radiator (this one was only 4 years old) solved the problem.

[johnathan1]

How often would you recommend flushing the system with Oxalic/Citric acid?

Amazing that the radiator only lasted four years, even with decent coolant running through it.

[jdub]

Really enjoy your autopsies JJ...they really tell the tale ;)

That ratio oxalic acid do you use and what do you use to neutralize?

[jetjock]

I rarely throw broken things in the trash without tearing into them. I've always felt by doing that I'm throwing away something valuable. It's a curse ;)

Oxalic can be had in Prestone Heavy Duty Cooling System Cleaner. Two part powered stuff in the yellow can. It can be tough to find at times so these days I buy oxalic in bulk for cheap. Ebay is one source.

For a heavy clean three tablespoons. For a minor clean one. Drain coolant and remove T stat. Refill with water and add oxalic. Run for a total of about one hour. Drain, refill with water and neutralize with one tsp soda ash (bicarbonate) for 30 minutes. Drain, fill with water, drain (better is to remove lower hose and back flush), fill with coolant mix.

[johnathan1]

Has using Oxalic acid caused any adverse effects in your experience? A couple of Mercedes guys who used Citric acid claimed that once they did the flush, that a crusty white substance formed inside the cooling system that caused the heater valve and radiator to clog, and also made the water pump start leaking almost immediately.

[Frank Rizzo]

When jetjock says flush with water, that means distilled water. That is the ultimate neutralizer. If you flush with tap water you will do more harm than good. My local tap water is around 7.5-8 pH, and is loaded with sodium, flouride, chlorine, copper, and other heavy metals. That is another source for the junk, using tap water. Yes, you will look like a psycho carrying 12 gallons of distilled water through the supermarket.

DISTILLED WATER ONLY.

[sneakypete]

wow.... that filter caught a lot of crap. have you taken the head off since you put the filter on? the reason i ask is that i notice whenever i remove the head, that the coolant channels between the block and head always seem to have some buildup in them. and i always use distilled water and toyota red. ill bet that your coolant channels are clean as a whistle.

BTW.... for the TB and ISCV coolant lines, which line is the outlet, and which is the inlet? im gonna do this setup while my motor is out
thanks
-pete

[jdub]

The fitting on the lower intake manifold (block) is the feed.

[sneakypete]

The fitting on the lower intake manifold (block) is the feed.

this would be the feed to the filter?

[jdub]

Tell me what you think ;)

http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=CO&P=2

[ILikeCarsYesIDo]

Boo, how about current pics of the engine bay and the car?

Don't be shy JJ.

[sneakypete]

Tell me what you think ;)

http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=CO&P=2

got it... thanks

[suprageezer]

I too have always used Coolant filters since I first saw one and it's results on my father in laws 75 blazer I rebuilt in 79, the insides of his engine were like bare spotless metal. no corrosion at all. The semi's use them since a semis radiator can cost thousands to replace, so it's cheap insurance in the long run. I also buy Oxalic acid in bulk from a local chemical company, seems like a lifetime supply. I used it to flush my system before my last coolant change. I used baking soda to flush out the oxalic acid as a neutralizer. Now I need to get a coolant filter on. I use DI water and Sierra in case I spill here at my condo complex, so I don't have to worry about folks calling hazmat out on me. This week I'll be ordering a WIX 24069 thru NAPA that has no chemicals to fit a mounting block I already have and am am mounting on the Supra. I run a 10" SS filter that uses a 10 micron cotton cartridge with a SS core on my van that I bought from McMaster-Carr, but they are too big for the Supra so I'm going with a Wix spinon for the Supra. Tihs would be a great thread to go into the Filtration section since I see most have never heard of coolant filtration.

[jetjock]

Thanks Geezer. The 4069 is the smaller version of the 4070. I was trying to remember that number earlier in the thread but couldn't. It's good for tight fits and has more than enough capacity.

[suprageezer]

JJ could you post some pics of the way you plumbed it like whats in and whats out. I was going plumb mine into the heater core hoses but I like your idea better since you have flow all the time.

[jetjock]

No pics but simple enough. Removed line from outlet of ISCV and ran new hose to filter on fender where igniter used to be (igniter was relocated to bolt on brake proportioning valve). Hose exits filter and runs back to original hose from ISCV using a 5/16" brass barbed coupler. 5/16" heater hose and constant tension clamps all around.

edit: See pic in the older thread Jdub mentioned a few posts back.

A filter will also work fine plumbed across (in parallel) the heater core hoses because there's enough of a pressure drop across the core to drive the filter with the valve open. Course, flow won't be a problem at all with it closed.

[suprageezer]

great Thanks JJ

[Halsupramk3]

for those not wanting to do the trouble of a filter one thing to do that too many dont

DONT use tap water. USE DISTILLED water. the reaction to the head especially at the water jackets from the aluminum head to iron block will corrode greatly from tap water. hard water is very bad. a lot of that white stuff or yellowish crap you see comes from your tap water. when i stopped using tap the distilled water cleaned off a lot of the mineral deposits on the head and it settled into the bottom of the radiator. when i pulled the rad for a engine pull i rinsed the crap out. some coolant and distilled water keeps a healthy coolant system.

[jdub]

Installed a coolant filter on my Cressida...used a marine fuel/water separator filter head (11/16x16 filter thread), 3/8" Aeroquip socketless hose, and 3/8" NPT barbed fittings. Tapped into the ISCV/TB coolant line in the last leg to the block hard line return and used 3/8" barb to barb splices to mate to the Aeroquip hose. The filter is a Wix 24069...it's a little over an inch shorter than the Donaldson JJ used...I had limited space (as you can see) where the filter head needed to go. Prior to the install, I flushed the coolant system with oxalic acid and switched to G-05 HOAT coolant.

Thanks JJ for the help...this was really easy to do with the info you provided ;)

http://jdub.supramania.com/Mechanical/Cressida Coolant Filter 01.jpg

http://jdub.supramania.com/Mechanical/Cressida Coolant Filter 02.jpg

[CyFi6]

sorry off topic but where do you guys buy all you constant tension clamps?

[jetjock]

Lots of places. Ebay and McMaster Carr come to mind. Buying a tool made specifically for them is wise. I like the cable operated ones. Mine is the top of the line Mayhew RigiFlex but there are lots of cheaper plier types out there.

http://tinyurl.com/56mbo4

Dub: Looks good ;)

[NashMan]

well i looking for monte that will work for wix coolent filter does any one kow fo any

i have bena thinking on running one for some time

but i runing mine were the trubo coolent lines are since i don't use them no more


dis graud found out si all ready mentioned

[suprageezer]

I haven't had mine on long enough to do a fist change but when I do I'll post some cut open pics also. I run a Wix 24069 I get them from NAPA. I recently had my dash removed I went and picked up the heater core and soldered it together no more losing water. This is first time since I got the car in 2001 that I havent had to add water on a regular basis. The original motors BHG I think was eventually caused by this FING oring BS in the hearter core and me not getting the water back in it fast enough. The FING oring is so thin I believe this may lead to most of the BHGs over time cause it I believe it seals under pressure BUT when the engine is in the cool down cycle it can't hold a vacuum and sucks in air. On this jdm motor I've been adding water since day one about two years but as soon as I see the birdcage I get it filled when it get's parked for the night. Now I haven't lost a single drop of water in over two weeks. So I installed the water filter and in one day the water was crystal clear, tomorrow I'll drain everything add new coolant, which I haven't ever had. So get those heater cores soldered up and see if what you though was a BHG was that FING oring BS design. Also I used the no conditioner filter, then Wix with conditioner is 24082. I might as well post all the Wix info below

Part Number: 24069

UPC Number: 765809240698
Principal Application: Cooling System Filter with No Chemicals
All Applications
Style: Coolant Spin-On Filter
Service: Coolant
Height: 4.317
Outer Diameter Top: 3.694
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 11/16-16
Nominal Micron Rating: 27
Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
Attached 2.834 2.462 0.200

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Part Number: 24082
UPC Number: 765809240827
Principal Application: Extended drain for 24071 applications
All Applications
Style: Coolant Spin-On Filter
Service: Coolant
Height: 5.430
Outer Diameter Top: 3.690
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 11/16-16
Note: Cooling System Filter with Conditioner
Prinicipal Application
Cat, Cummins, Detroit, Other
Service ESI
Gasket Diameters Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
Attached 2.860 2.500 0.230

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Part Number: 24083
UPC Number: 765809240834
Principal Application: Extended Drain Coolant (Non Chemical Filter ) All Applications
Style: Coolant Spin-On Filter
Service: Coolant
Height: 4.173
Outer Diameter Top: 3.690
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 11/16-16
Note: Cooling System Filter with No Chemicals
Prinicipal Application-Cat, Cummins, Detroit, Other
Service-ESI
Gasket Diameters Number O.D. I.D. Thk. Attached 2.850 2.470 0.230
TO CHECK ALL APPLICATIONS PLEASE VISIT:
WWW.WIXFILTERS.COM

[NashMan]

humm after much thought i think going to make this easy on me and just use an oil filter as coolent filter

i herd poeple doing this alot both filter are some what the same

does any one disagree

[jdub]

Nash - you want to use a coolant filter, but if you insist, an oil filter will work.

Here's the proper head unit with 11/16-16 filter threads and 3/8" NPT inlet/outlet:
http://www.marineexpressusa.com/proddetail.asp?prod=50-20901

This will fit the Wix 24069 and 24070 coolant filters available at NAPA...the 24069 is a bit shorter for tighter fits. I buy mine at www.rockauto.com.

[mattsplat72]

So I live in a town that is very marine dependent if I went into a parts store and asked about this they would be able help me out . I just dropped some serious coinage on a Fluidyne and I want to keep it clean. Also can you mount the filter underneath the intake mani I like to keep things orderly I have a touch of OCD

[NashMan]

well thansk dude you gave me what i needed to know all see how easy it is to get this filter at my local auto parts store

i just needed to know the thread and i chould not find it any were

Nash - you want to use a coolant filter, but if you insist, an oil filter will work.

Here's the proper head unit with 11/16-16 filter threads and 3/8" NPT inlet/outlet:
http://www.marineexpressusa.com/proddetail.asp?prod=50-20901

This will fit the Wix 24069 and 24070 coolant filters available at NAPA...the 24069 is a bit shorter for tighter fits. I buy mine at www.rockauto.com.

[Suprafast0422]

Im so glad i found this thread before i put regular old toyota coolant in my rebuilt/cleaned motor and not run a filter. Im starting out with a completly clean block/head , new hoses, and a new radiator. So this mod makes perfect sense to keep everything clean.

And what about this o-ring problem in the heater core?

[suprageezer]

Hate to bring this old thread up again, but I/m having trouble finding another filter mounting block with the 11-16" threads to fit the WIX 4069. I looked through WIX and most coolant filters use the 11-16" thread. If Anyone has a link to a good aluminum mounting block with this thread it would be greatly appreciated.
THanks

[NashMan]

what are teh draw back of runing a oil filter instead of teh coolent filter i know there built alot diffetn but really never cut one apart befor

[suprageezer]

I finally received a response from filtercrossreference.com on a Wix coolant filter mounting block that fits the Wix 24069 coolant filter.

Wix P/N 24763 $24.53 FILTER MOUNTING BASE

Think maybe we should move this thread to the Oil, Lubricants, and Filtration category?

[ValgeKotkas]

Just did mine, is everything right? :) Looking from here - left side on the filter mount is IN, right is OUT.
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c45/J-M-C/DSC00604DesktopResolution.jpg

[jetjock]

Can't tell from the mount but for any spin-on filter flow is supposed to be from the outside in because the outside of the filter (it's larger diameter) provides more surface area for increased capacity. There's also the issue of a bypass valve if the filter has one. However true cooling filters usually don't...

[ValgeKotkas]

I used a Purolator oil filter, like you suggested a year ago.

[jetjock]

Then it should be plumbed as I said, from outside in. Put another way the flow returning to the engine should exit the center hole of the filter...

[ValgeKotkas]

So I read the http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=CO&P=2 diagram wrong?
The middle hole (OUT) on my mount is connected to the TB. I thought the flow was Valve to TB. Hmm...

[GeneStarWindGSW]

I plan to try a setup on my 1jz for coolant filtration :)

Could i use the two lines from the upper coolant pipe for feed and return?
http://www.driftworks.com/images/R32/1JZ-fitting-19.jpg


I was planning on getting the small pipes bended down to a round 90 degree angle so then i could run the hoses straight and mount my filter next to my radiator. Sounds alright?

[prototype_HI]

jetjock and jdub,
if you were born in japan you might've helped build the supra..[better than it is]
btw-jj are you a jet engineer/mechanic?

i thought about a coolant filter a while ago.. imma get on this as soon as i get all my major projects done..

[jetjock]

Gene: You're not going to bend those nipples and unless there is a divider between them you won't get any flow. There has to be some sort of pressure drop to drive the filter.

Proto: I'm an air carrier pilot, as is Jdub. Prior to that I was a machine design/automation engineer. Along with my partners I work on a couple of owned aircraft (one is turbine powered) under the supervision of licensed mechanics. Not sure but I think Jdub only has cars to work on...which proves he's a lot smarter than I am ;)

[jdub]

Yep...the romantic lifestyle of an airline pilot :sarcasm:

I began as a mechanical engineer working stress/metallurgy on power plants...specifically nukes. Saw the light and got an accounting degree and a MBA during 15 yrs active duty as an AF fighter pilot...still in the USAFR. I'm way over educated ;)

I too have helped a couple buds work on airplanes, only piston engines though...one was a complete restoration of a T-34. Good thing we had a licensed aircraft mechanic watching us...LOL.

[GeneStarWindGSW]

Well i didn't think i'd have any issues running it through those two lines. Yea, i'll leave the bending out of it for now. Too much of a hassle.

Well today I went and bought a Napa Coolant Filter.
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&FromWhere=SC&LineCode=FIL&PartNumber=4070&Description=Cooling%20System%20Filter

Now i'm trying to find the right oil filter adapter/housing that will thread into my filter but i can't seem to find one. (the thread of the coolant filter is 11/16-16 and i can't seem to find anything that will work)

[jdub]

I get 'em from fleetfilters.com or filterbarn.com, same places I get most of my filters. They're Donaldson (a premier filter maker not involved in the auto market) but without the supplemental cooling additives. Do not run SCAs in a gas engine.

Napa and Wix also sell equivalents but they can be spendy. Keep in mind such filters have a special stud thread and will require a matching mount. You can get them at trucking places but much better and cheaper is to get a marine fuel/water separator mount from any boat store or ebay. About $20. It's the same thread.

Having said that any oil filter mount and oil filter will work fine. I just happen to like Donaldson quality. Change it once a year or whenever you change coolant.


Installed a coolant filter on my Cressida...used a marine fuel/water separator filter head (11/16x16 filter thread), 3/8" Aeroquip socketless hose, and 3/8" NPT barbed fittings. Tapped into the ISCV/TB coolant line in the last leg to the block hard line return and used 3/8" barb to barb splices to mate to the Aeroquip hose. The filter is a Wix 24069...it's a little over an inch shorter than the Donaldson JJ used...I had limited space (as you can see) where the filter head needed to go. Prior to the install, I flushed the coolant system with oxalic acid and switched to G-05 HOAT coolant.

Thanks JJ for the help...this was really easy to do with the info you provided ;)


Nash - you want to use a coolant filter, but if you insist, an oil filter will work.

Here's the proper head unit with 11/16-16 filter threads and 3/8" NPT inlet/outlet:
http://www.marineexpressusa.com/proddetail.asp?prod=50-20901

This will fit the Wix 24069 and 24070 coolant filters available at NAPA...the 24069 is a bit shorter for tighter fits. I buy mine at www.rockauto.com. (http://www.rockauto.com.)


The answer is only in 3 different posts in this thread ;)
(try reading the whole thing next time)

[GeneStarWindGSW]

The answer is only in 3 different posts in this thread ;)
(try reading the whole thing next time)

I didn't read everything since it was 9 pgs but i did go through a lot. I guess next time i'll be more thorough, but hey now we got all the references cited now :biglaugh:

Thanks for the help Jdub


As for reference any cooling filters that are 11/16, i found the "Baldwin CFB5000 Coolant Base" Has the whole adapter base with the 11/16 filter thread on it already. What i plan to get now

[jetjock]

Fwiw that CFB5000 base is huge. I know, I have one here collecting dust. Couldn't find space for it in my car. Take our advice and get a marine unit. And I'll say it again: if there isn't a delta P between those two nipples you're wasting your time...

[iwannadie]

Thanks for the thread/info guys. I was just doing some cooling system maintenance and saw this thread and figure might as well. I got my wix housing-24763 and filter-24070 on order. I was gonna go with the marine filter JJ recommends but shipping on that is pricey... Rockauto has the other 2 and good shipping(plus I can buy other car stuff while I'm at it!), so hopefully the wix housing is good enough.

Is there any worry about heat if I mount it on the exhaust side? I was looking at the pics in this thread and thought I would put mine over there in an empty hole I have. I thought about running the hoses back along the firewall and not directly over the exhaust though.

[R1GG5]

Wow, most informative thread I have ever read, this is on my "to do" list! Thanks folks!



James

[jdub]

Changed the coolant filter on my Cressida (5M engine). The filter is a Wix 24069 running Zyrex G-05 coolant. Prior to installing this filter, I flushed the coolant system with oxalic acid, neutralized, and flushed thoroughly with water...I changed the original filter in June 08 after thinking about JJ's pics at the beginning of this thread. The flush loosened up a crap load of deposits.

This filter is after that on a clean fill of G-05 in for 1 year. As you can see, the system is very clean. Handles the 115 deg Arizona summer superbly ;)


http://jdub.supramania.com/Mechanical/Cressida Coolant Filter 0709-1.jpg

http://jdub.supramania.com/Mechanical/Cressida Coolant Filter 0709-2.jpg

[R1GG5]

Changed the coolant filter on my Cressida (5M engine). The filter is a Wix 24069 running Zyrex G-05 coolant. Prior to installing this filter, I flushed the coolant system with oxalic acid, neutralized, and flushed thoroughly with water...I changed the original filter in June 08 after thinking about JJ's pics at the beginning of this thread. The flush loosened up a crap load of deposits.

This filter is after that on a clean fill of G-05 in for 1 year. As you can see, the system is very clean. Handles the 115 deg Arizona summer superbly ;)





Is there any reason that yours is so much cleaner than JJ's? It seems that you went the same interval between filter changes and it also seems that you run almost the same setup (coolant, flush, distilled water). I know this seems like a stupid question but I am going to throw caution to the wind and prepare to be flamed. My guess would be the wear on the components withing the cooling system. Again, sorry I am just trying to learn.


Thanks,
James

[jdub]

Not stupid, but read this again:
I flushed the coolant system with oxalic acid, neutralized, and flushed thoroughly with water...I changed the original filter in June 08

This is the 2nd filter. After I saw what the oxalic acid did for JJ's flush, I changed the 1st filter after ~month...there was a lot of crap in it, but I forgot to take pics. Take a look at JJ's filter from the year before:
JJ's 2007 Coolant Filter Pics (http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49260)

As you can see, his looked better than this one...mine darkened up because it was catching up leftover (tiny) debris.

[R1GG5]

I think I read that you neutrilized with baking soda, doesnt that make one hell of a mess? How are you keeping the foam from getting everywhere? Sorry, last question.

[jdub]

JJ's previous post should help:

I rarely throw broken things in the trash without tearing into them. I've always felt by doing that I'm throwing away something valuable. It's a curse

Oxalic can be had in Prestone Heavy Duty Cooling System Cleaner. Two part powered stuff in the yellow can. It can be tough to find at times so these days I buy oxalic in bulk for cheap. Ebay is one source.

For a heavy clean three tablespoons. For a minor clean one. Drain coolant and remove T stat. Refill with water and add oxalic. Run for a total of about one hour. Drain, refill with water and neutralize with one tsp soda ash (bicarbonate) for 30 minutes. Drain, fill with water, drain (better is to remove lower hose and back flush), fill with coolant mix.

I dissolved both in a gallon of water and poured it in. I actually used 2 tsp bicarbonate, but close enough. Afterward, I removed the lower rad hose and flushed with water. I took the Tstat housing off and ran water through the block there. Put everything back on, filled with water and ran again, then drained. Then filled with 50/50 coolant.

Be careful with oxalic acid though, it's not something you want on your hands.

[Zumtizzle]

JJ's previous post should help:



I dissolved both in a gallon of water and poured it in. I actually used 2 tsp bicarbonate, but close enough. Afterward, I removed the lower rad hose and flushed with water. I took the Tstat housing off and ran water through the block there. Put everything back on, filled with water and ran again, then drained. Then filled with 50/50 coolant.

Be careful with oxalic acid though, it's not something you want on your hands.

With a garden hose?

[R1GG5]

With a garden hose?


No he flushed with distilled water because of the hard metals and minerals that are contained in most of everyone's tap water. I think it was in an earlier post but those metals and minerals leave deposits in your cooling system.


James

[jdub]

When I did the initial flush, I used tap water...including the oxalic acid flush. After the neutralization, I used 2-3 gal of distilled water. The 50/50 coolant was also with distilled water.

[Zumtizzle]

Thanks! :)