Mobil 1 "Advanced Fuel Economy"?

[GotToyota?]

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What do you think of this? Anymore info about this oil that you could insight us with? I'm wondering if this would really help fuel economy, and if so, I think I'd use it in my Celica.

-Matt

[Clip]

going to get flamed for this but i thought jdub (or another member) had mentioned that he got a little better fuel economy when using 0w-30 german castrol. or maybe he said it wouldn't burn off as fast as others.

subscribed for info

[jdub]

http://img1.putfile.com/thumb/3/5915102382.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4887458)

At the bottom you may see the term “Energy Conserving”. Use of this oil will help with the fuel consumption of the engine. Typically, you will see it on the lighter weight multi-grade oils (i.e. 5W-30). To qualify as “Energy Conserving,” an engine oil must improve fuel economy in laboratory tests by at least 1.5% when compared with a reference oil. If the improvement is 2.7% or more, the oil can be labeled “Energy Conserving II.”

Here's the API symbol from the "Motor Oil Basics" sticky. Any oil with this symbol will help improve fuel economy (BTW - GC is not one of them), but in order to get it, a company has to pay API to perform the tests. What the scum sucking marketing dept for Exxon Mobil is doing is using the certification as a marketing tactic to sell more oil (they need to improve profits)...they want you to think it's something special. It's not, quite a few different oils from different companies meet this spec...most (if not all) are the lighter weight oils and just about any 20W multigrade and 0W/5W-30 oils fit in this category. Whether you see the symbol or not has a lot to do if API received the $$$ to do the tests. And I did get a bit better gas mileage when I switched to GC even though it doesn't carry this symbol.

FYI - Pennzoil Platinum carries the same API/ACEA/ILSAC certifications ;)

[Poodles]

I've gotten a lot better gas milage with GC as well...

Not to mention Mobil 1 isn't a real synthetic while GC is...

[GotToyota?]

FYI - Pennzoil Platinum carries the same API/ACEA/ILSAC certifications ;)

So are you saying that I can switch over the the Pennzoil Platinum 0W-30, and it would be the same, if not better then this stuff?

I'm currently using 10W-30, but with summer coming up I'm not sure if 0W is a good choice. What do you think?

-Matt

[jdub]

The lowest PP goes is 5W-30 in the 30W multigrades. The viscosity for PP 5W-30 and PP 10W-30 at ops temp are identical (10.2 cst)...the difference is the 5W-30's viscosity is lower "cold". PP 5W-30 is also a bit thinner than the above Mobil 1, both cold and at ops temp...that will make it more effective fuel economy wise too.

Short answer...you can run PP 5W-30 all year. ;)
And, yes it is better than this version of Mobil 1.

[GotToyota?]

The lowest PP goes is 5W-30 in the 30W multigrades. The viscosity for PP 5W-30 and PP 10W-30 at ops temp are identical (10.2 cst)...the difference is the 5W-30's viscosity is lower "cold". PP 5W-30 is also a bit thinner than the above Mobil 1, both cold and at ops temp...that will make it more effective fuel economy wise too.

Short answer...you can run PP 5W-30 all year. ;)
And, yes it is better than this version of Mobil 1.

Cool, good deal. I'm currently running Mobil 1 10W-30 (biggest mistake I've ever made), and will promptly be going back to PP soon. Looks like I'm going 5W-30. ;)

And OT real quick, concerning transmission fluid, if I wanted to put Synchromesh in my transmission to get rid of a grind, should I go full Synchromesh or put in 1 quart and then the rest be standard fluid?

-Matt

[jdub]

Need some more info...what does the manual recommend for the tranny? And, what brand/weight oil is in it now?

I really don't like mixing oils to be honest...never when they are two different types.

[OfnaRcR4]

I'm confued, whats wrong with mobil 1 synthetic?

[jdub]

^^^ Do some more reading in this section, then ask that question ;)

[GotToyota?]

Need some more info...what does the manual recommend for the tranny? And, what brand/weight oil is in it now?

I really don't like mixing oils to be honest...never when they are two different types.

Honestly, I've never done it before, so I don't know. It's a 95 Celica.

[jdub]

Well Matt, you need to figure out what gear oil the manual calls for...using Synchromesh in a tranny that's not designed for it can do more harm than good.

[OfnaRcR4]

^^^ Do some more reading in this section, then ask that question ;)

I've been using mobile 1 synthetic for as long as i owned the car so i was concerned.
From what i understand, it's a good oil, it just isn't fully synthetic, but it is marketed as synthetic.
Am i right?

[Poodles]

True

It's overpriced for what it is, it's not as well made as say...Pennzoil Platinum, and true synthetics are far better for the price...

I'm better MT-90 will be best for his tranny as well, depends on what fluid it takes stock though...

[jdub]

Basically you are correct. If you're going to run a Grp III hydrocracked dino oil, there's better oil available...especially at the price.

(Poodles beat me) ;)

[Zumtizzle]

Just get wallmart oil! It's a beater save a few bucks.

[bigaaron]

My '06 F150 4.6L uses 5w20, what's up with that Jdub? What should I run in it? I really want whatever will make it maybe kinda hopefully last as long as possible, being a Ford and all.... :)

It's got 15k miles on it. I used Ford Motor Co. 5w20 semi-synthetic last time because it was $3 a quart and I figured Ford had an idea of what would work ok. :biglaugh:

[Poodles]

If you can, look at what they recommend for the same engine around the world.

A good example is the RX8 and the engine failures associated with the 5w-20 (I think) that they put in it in the states to meat EPA mandated MPG ratings. Everywhere else in the world they recommend 5w-30.

[jdub]

Aaron - That motor has a good track record with a 0W-20, including the Ford semi-syn oil you used. It should run and last with that oil. Keep something in mind when looking at the lighter oils...at ops temp, the 0W & 5W-30's tend to be on the thin side for a 30W multigrade (GC is an exception). The 0W & 5W-20 oils tend to be on the thick side of the viscosity scale for a 20W multigrade.

Is it worth it to switch to a Grp III syn oil (like Pennzoil Platinum) or a PAO (like GC or Amsoil)? That's going to depend on what you do with the truck. Under standard driving conditions, the advantage is these oils will keep the motor very clean and allow a longer change interval, but the oil will cost twice what you paid. If the truck is used for a lot of towing or other "severe" use, these oils will hold up better to abuse and IMO would be a better choice.

I tend to use Grp IV or V true synthetic oils...I run GC in my Toyota Pick-up w/ a R22 four banger in it. I've installed a thermostat controlled cooler and Motor Guard bypass filter. After the next change at 8K, I'm going to start doing analysis (wanted to get all the old stuff out...this is the 2nd fill of GC). The reason I tell you all this is for prespective...I tend to run the best for the $$$ spent. That method is not for everybody...what you are using will work fine. Use a good filter though ;)

BTW - the point Poodles brought up is interesting, in Mexico the Ford 4.6 is spec'ed for a 15W-40. It's also interesting that the 20W multigrade oils are fairly hard to find on the store shelves in Mexico too. Personally, in this case, I think it's more of an attitude against the 20W oils and the good ole "thicker is better" mind set than what the motor really likes.

[Doward]

FWIW, I've found the SuperTech Synthetic ($14 for 5 qts around here) is NOT a horrible oil by any means.

My '88 Accord loves the 5w30 SuperTech Synthetic ;) And my wallet loves my '88 Accord. But it's canceled out, because my '88 Supra loves my wallet :(

[teedoff00]

Hey matt,
Just to sort of answer your oil in transmission on your Celica, assuming it is the 5sp, atf is actually recommended. My friend just filled his up with Redline D4+, he has a bad synco going into 2nd gear and it didn't fix it by any means but did help noticeably. As to the syncromesh you would want RP MaxATF, I hear it works well, but if I were you I would spend a little extra and get the redline expecially since you will only be changing it like every 20-40 thousand miles.

[GotToyota?]

Hey matt,
Just to sort of answer your oil in transmission on your Celica, assuming it is the 5sp, atf is actually recommended. My friend just filled his up with Redline D4+, he has a bad synco going into 2nd gear and it didn't fix it by any means but did help noticeably. As to the syncromesh you would want RP MaxATF, I hear it works well, but if I were you I would spend a little extra and get the redline expecially since you will only be changing it like every 20-40 thousand miles.
It's a 95, so I'm not sure what it calls for. I'll just use the RP ATF.