Stinger thread....

[rakkasan]

Post your ins and outs of the Stinger ECU & maps here.....

Attached is my 1jz map. I run a 61.5mm turbo with 440cc injectors and with this map, it runs very, very good. The only 'problem' I've noticed is cold cranking the car.

**change the extension of the attached file to .em4 to open in Stinger....

[turbo joe]

I was just bugging Aaron last night to start a Stinger thread. :D Thanks!

What is the problem you're having with cold starts?

[rakkasan]

I was just bugging Aaron last night to start a Stinger thread. :D Thanks!

What is the problem you're having with cold starts?

I need to figure out how to add fuel during cold start ups. I had an older version of software that let you do it, but when I upgraded, it seemed to have disappeared....

[suprahero]

Mark, did you check the link you posted? Maybe my computer can't read all that technical stuff.........:biglaugh:

[rakkasan]

You mean the tune file? Rename it with a .em4 extension. You can't (currently) attach .em4's, so I made it a .txt.

Hay Jay, add your old and new files......

[turbo joe]

You should have a coolant temp map...just add or subtract it there at the appropriate temps.

The Stinger is a little different than most ECUs, in that cranking fuel is tuned from the map...so if you need more cranking fuel, just add it at the edge of the map and tweak it for temp in the coolant map.

[rakkasan]

You should have a coolant temp map...just add or subtract it there at the appropriate temps.

The Stinger is a little different than most ECUs, in that cranking fuel is tuned from the map...so if you need more cranking fuel, just add it at the edge of the map and tweak it for temp in the coolant map.

Correct, but the old version of software had the ability to add fuel during startup by a % of the base map. Adding fuel by the cooling or air temp map adds fuel as long as the car is operating in said temp range, therefor if you add more fuel to get the car started, it will continue to run rich until it moves out of that cell...

[turbo joe]

That coolant map does go both ways, right? :D

You should be doing most of your tuning with the main map, then do the tweaking in the coolant map. If it's too lean on startup, just bump up the first row of cells...the 0-500 numbers. It's not likely that it would need *more* fuel at 120* cranking than it would at say 80* and cranking. If anything, it's going to need less fuel the warmer it gets, not more at just that temp.

The adjustments are fairly sparse for sure...but you can definitely do whatever you need to do. You probably have something else a little out somewhere else and it makes look like the problem is at 120*. Know what I mean?

Your car should start at 120* on the main map without any correction. If it doesn't...keep at it until it does. The ECT correction will just make it better at lower temps, but it's easy to go a little too far when it's warm and make it slightly flooded. I generally have it all zeroed-out by 120-130 tops.

[Panchira!]

does anyone have the stock 1jz coolant temp sensor calabration file?

[tissimo]

in aem I used the MKIII (7m) water temp calibration. seemed the be the same
edit: oh stinger doesn't show volts, anyone know what the numbers mean?

[bigaaron]

in aem I used the MKIII (7m) water temp calibration. seemed the be the same
edit: oh stinger doesn't show volts, anyone know what the numbers mean?

It's a 0-5 volt analog scale displayed as a digital 0 to 1024 number. A-to-D.

[tissimo]

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p227/tissimo91t/Misc/coolanttemp.jpg

is what aem uses for the toyota temp sensor..

[rakkasan]

has any one played with the tune analyzer? I'm curious of it's function/usefullness

[turbo joe]

I haven't messed with it at all. I do WOT tuning by power only...I don't really care much what the ECU thinks of what I do. :D

In order to do any sort of closed-loop tuning or analysis, you really need to tune it first to figure out what the engine wants in terms of fuel at what part of the map to make the most power...then use that information to set up or do any analysis.

[quake]

has any one played with the tune analyzer? I'm curious of it's function/usefullness

tune analyzer does not work very well just hit the highway and tune. Tune all light throttle first under 1psi, make sure you turn off the throttle enrichment and duration settings in the ecu set up screen first. This will help smooth out af's without jumping all over.

[rakkasan]

make sure you turn off the throttle enrichment and duration settings in the ecu set up screen first. This will help smooth out af's without jumping all over.

Good point

[turbo joe]

Sometimes however, the air/fuel is supposed to be "jumpy". I tune for how it drives and performs, not how the gauge behaves. :)

Get the throttle response as smooth and crisp as you can in the map, then go to the throttle/TPS enrichments. You can get it pretty dialed for progressive throttle...roll on and roll off stuff...but for snap-open throttle, you absolutely need a little extra to make it right. Not much, but you gotta have some.

[Justin727]

no more maps eh?

[rakkasan]

no more maps eh?

LOL, I was thinking the same thing....

Are you running Stinger on your 7M? I'll help if I can.

[turbo joe]

Not looking to start anything here...well...maybe I am...LOL

You can easily make your own maps that will easily be as good as a map you get from someone else's setup. Why would you want to use someone else's? Unless your combo is identical to theirs, it likely won't be any better than what you can do yourself.

There aren't many items to set up on a Stinger, I would think that a few key settings and a range of base map numbers would get you running if you aren't already.

[Justin727]

LOL, I was thinking the same thing....

Are you running Stinger on your 7M? I'll help if I can.



no not as of yet still waiting for my maft pro to be SOLD!!!


Joe, I wasnt looking to borrow someones map with my setup because as far as I know there isnt anyone reporting with the same setup as I. Dunno if you were directing to me or just to say it to be known.

But when the time comes I would like to look at a map for some reference points.

As soon as the maft pro gets sold everyone will see more of me with the stinger!

[rakkasan]

But when the time comes I would like to look at a map for some reference points.


Take it for what it's work, but start off by replicating you stock timing map. I didn't, and I wasted a lot of time & money

[foreverpsycotic]

Why do you have the idle speed turned off in the stinger? Couldn't it work with the "Use TPS" feature on, with your target idle speed?

BTW, THX for the map, I should have a stinger in by the end of summer, and your map will be an amazing base map for me (holset HX35 with 440s and hopefully machined JZA80 cams)

[turbo joe]

I was just wondering...

[FIL]

I've just gotten my JZA70 running on the 4424 Stinger...

Took a couple of days to get it running (well, evenings anyway), biggest struggle was the wiring loom, but nothing that can't be figured out by spending a bit of time reading the available literature....

Base map that comes with the V4 stinger is remarkably not cr*p... Not perfect by a long shot, but could be a lot worse...

The Tune Analyzer on the other hand... not sure if it's the latest version only, or whether they're all bad, but it loses the data it's saved very easily...

[turbo joe]

Not sure why anyone would ever use a "tune analyzer" in the first place. Just tune it to where it drives right and you're 99% of the way there...and that takes maybe an hour or two.

Unplug the lambda sensor and go drive around. :)

Seriously...step back from the lambda...nothing to see here. Keep it below full throttle until you have the rest of the map done...THEN worry about lambda (a little) at full throttle (preferably on a dyno).

[10secdream]

Hey does anyone have a good base map for the 1JZ besides the one that comes with the Stinger?

[bigaaron]

I've just gotten my JZA70 running on the 4424 Stinger...

Took a couple of days to get it running (well, evenings anyway), biggest struggle was the wiring loom, but nothing that can't be figured out by spending a bit of time reading the available literature....

Base map that comes with the V4 stinger is remarkably not cr*p... Not perfect by a long shot, but could be a lot worse...

The Tune Analyzer on the other hand... not sure if it's the latest version only, or whether they're all bad, but it loses the data it's saved very easily...

The map that comes with the Stinger software is waaaaaay off, we had to make new maps from scratch for fuel and timing. Use one of our maps and make minor changes, it will be a lot less work in the long run.

[bigaaron]

Hey does anyone have a good base map for the 1JZ besides the one that comes with the Stinger?

The first post in this thread has a link to download Mark's map.

[FIL]

The map that comes with the Stinger software is waaaaaay off, we had to make new maps from scratch for fuel and timing. Use one of our maps and make minor changes, it will be a lot less work in the long run.

Cheers Aaron, I'll have a look at them....

[10secdream]

Hey so i have a quick question about adding larger injectors and then tuning them. My question is say I go from the stock 1JZ injectors to the JDM 440's is it wise to adjust the injector time scale to compensate for the bigger injectors or just leave it be and adjust the fuel map. My understanding is that the injector time scale is used to get the engine running and then you tune the fuel map. So after you have a good idea where the fuel map should be do you readjust the injector time scale or do you leave it where you set it.

[turbo joe]

I just trim the map proportionally. If the injectors are 25% larger, I trim the map down by 25%.

I'm not really sure what you mean by the "time scale".

[10secdream]

I just trim the map proportionally. If the injectors are 25% larger, I trim the map down by 25%.

I'm not really sure what you mean by the "time scale".

Injector time scale is the length of time the injectors stay open.

[rakkasan]

Injector time scale is the length of time the injectors stay open.

If you're going from 380cc to 440cc, then drop the entire fuel map by 17% & adjust it from there. That *should* be right on the money.....

[10secdream]

If you're going from 380cc to 440cc, then drop the entire fuel map by 17% & adjust it from there. That *should* be right on the money.....

So in other words I should just worry about the fuel map and not about the injector time scale to adjust the map. Also shouldn't it be 14%?

[turbo joe]

Injector time scale is the length of time the injectors stay open.

The Stinger doesn't have a base pulse width setting...it's not a VE-style system in that way (like Electrotive or FAST) . The fuel map (combined with the MAP scale and other multipliers) IS the time scale, the units just aren't in ms.

[turbo joe]

So in other words I should just worry about the fuel map and not about the injector time scale to adjust the map. Also shouldn't it be 14%?

Yes. Just reduce the map by the same amount that the injectors are larger.

[10secdream]

Yes. Just reduce the map by the same amount that the injectors are larger.

Thanks for your help guys.

[quake]

Thanks for your help guys.

time scale will affect you, what happens is the % of injector used is affected you may show 100% duty at full throttle when you are actually only say 70%

[quake]

for my 550cc injectors i used say 60% then when i went up to the 1000cc injectors i used about 55% more time scale. If you change it after making a map the entire map is affected.

[10secdream]

Have any of you guys got the 2 step or the anti-lag to work? I have a switch with one end going to the yellow/black wire and the other end going to a 12V power source and it is not working. Am I doing something wrong? Also in the aux section I do have the 2 step activated but whenever I turn the switch on nothing happens.

[Pharnhyte]

I am picking up a 1jz car with a Stinger... wondering where to get software at? Cant to seem to find a stinger website


thanks
Steve

I am guessing it has an adjustable rev limit feature also?

[bigaaron]

Have any of you guys got the 2 step or the anti-lag to work? I have a switch with one end going to the yellow/black wire and the other end going to a 12V power source and it is not working. Am I doing something wrong? Also in the aux section I do have the 2 step activated but whenever I turn the switch on nothing happens.

Did you set the rev limit low and see if it limits the rpm? Nothing happens with a 2 step until you rev the engine to the rev limit set for the 2 step.

[FIL]

I am picking up a 1jz car with a Stinger... wondering where to get software at? Cant to seem to find a stinger website


thanks
Steve

I am guessing it has an adjustable rev limit feature also?

http://www.enginemanagement.com.au -> online agent for the Stinger (or something like that)

They have the software available for download there, and a support forum that may be able to help out as well... (Mind you, there's a lot of knowledge right here on SM too)

[10secdream]

Did you set the rev limit low and see if it limits the rpm? Nothing happens with a 2 step until you rev the engine to the rev limit set for the 2 step.

I did set the rev limit low and nothing happens. I checked the switch and it works fine as well. I just cant seem to figure out what is wrong.

[bigaaron]

I believe the problem is that you are switching 12v to the aux input wire, but it is a ground trigger. So if you follow the diagram for the Stinger, you need a single pole, double throw switch, or they might call it: (ON)-ON or SPCO with no off position in the center. The NC (normally closed) pin goes to 12v, the Common pin goes to the Stinger, and the NO (normally open) pin goes to ground. I think you could probably get away without having 12v for NC, but they do that because it's possible if you leave that pin floating (not connected to 12v or ground), it could get electrical noise and cause the rev limiter to kick on intermittently. Make sure you have the 2 step feature enabled under the "input control circuits" tab in the "aux settings" menu.

To test it, just disconnect the wire from your switch that goes to 12v, and connect it to ground instead.

EDIT: here's a diagram I made
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v379/BigAaron/driftmotion/stingerAUXin.jpg

[bigaaron]

A few more diagrams for the Stinger thread:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v379/BigAaron/misc/stingerfprelay.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v379/BigAaron/driftmotion/stingertostocktach.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v379/BigAaron/misc/ignitionadaptor_ems.jpg

[10secdream]

Thanks a bunch Aaron!

[Pharnhyte]

http://www.enginemanagement.com.au -> online agent for the Stinger (or something like that)

They have the software available for download there, and a support forum that may be able to help out as well... (Mind you, there's a lot of knowledge right here on SM too)


Thanks I really appreciate it:)

[10secdream]

Heres a question for all of you. When your car is fully warm and idling does the idle stay really consistent or does it tend to bounce up and down ~80-100 rpms? Mine seems to bounce up and down and I was just wondering if this is normal. I set my idle to around 750 but it always goes up to 850 then back down to 750 like its always trying to adjust itself.

[rakkasan]

Heres a question for all of you. When your car is fully warm and idling does the idle stay really consistent or does it tend to bounce up and down ~80-100 rpms? Mine seems to bounce up and down and I was just wondering if this is normal. I set my idle to around 750 but it always goes up to 850 then back down to 750 like its always trying to adjust itself.

It's not normal. Mine idles very smoothly at 900rpm. Check to see what your idle AFR is and if you have any vacuum leaks, it's not trying to adjust itself, it can't unless you've wired in some sort of PWN/air valve.....

[rakkasan]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v379/BigAaron/driftmotion/stingertostocktach.jpg


Aaron, when you say "stock tach", does that include the 1JZ tach also?

Nice schematics BTW....

[10secdream]

It's not normal. Mine idles very smoothly at 900rpm. Check to see what your idle AFR is and if you have any vacuum leaks, it's not trying to adjust itself, it can't unless you've wired in some sort of PWN/air valve.....

Ya I figured it was suppose to be a consistent idle. My AFR at idle is 14.7. I guess I will have to start checking for vacuum leaks now.

[IJ.]

It's not normal. Mine idles very smoothly at 900rpm. Check to see what your idle AFR is and if you have any vacuum leaks, it's not trying to adjust itself, it can't unless you've wired in some sort of PWN/air valve.....

Have a look at the cells around your idle speed on the Ign and Fuel maps, a trick I use to help keep idle stable is to have less ignition above the idle point and more below it this way if the idle speeds up the lower ignition timing slows it down and pushes it back to normal idle and the same happens if it slows. (this works well with an Auto trans so you don't get a jerk from N to D)

[bigaaron]

Aaron, when you say "stock tach", does that include the 1JZ tach also?

Nice schematics BTW....

If you want to have a Stinger aux output run the stock Toyota tach because you're running a 7m-gte igniter on the Stinger, or if you have an aftermarket igniter, you use that circuit or the tach will be all jumpy and inaccurate.

[10secdream]

Hey guys I started the car again tonight and the idle is still a little jumpy. I checked for vacuum leaks and could not find any but maybe I am missing something.

What AFR's are you guys running at idle? I am running pretty rich ~13's and if I try to take away fuel the idle even gets more jumpy. Are my current AFR's ok or am I missing something.

[rakkasan]

Hey guys I started the car again tonight and the idle is still a little jumpy. I checked for vacuum leaks and could not find any but maybe I am missing something.

What AFR's are you guys running at idle? I am running pretty rich ~13's and if I try to take away fuel the idle even gets more jumpy. Are my current AFR's ok or am I missing something.

I don't remember my exact AFR, but I do recall that is a bit on the rich side. Heres the way i adjusted mine:


play with/adjust your fuel map until the idle RPM is the highest (just play with it and watch the RPM on the software)
once you have the highest RPM possible, turn down the idle speed via the set screw on the throttle body to the desired RPM


One other thing to note. My car idle is set to 900rpm because it seems to give a good smooth idle. 800rpm is decent, but anything lower gave my motor a not so desirable idle (misses, unstable, plug fouling, et al.). That seems to be the nature of the beast with stand alone.....

[rakkasan]

If you want to have a Stinger aux output run the stock Toyota tach because you're running a 7m-gte igniter on the Stinger, or if you have an aftermarket igniter, you use that circuit or the tach will be all jumpy and inaccurate.

So this won't work with the stock 1JZ ignitor? I'm a little confused (go figure :sarcasm: ).

[10secdream]

So this won't work with the stock 1JZ ignitor? I'm a little confused (go figure :sarcasm: ).

I think it only applies to the 7M ignitor. My 1JZ with the stock tach seem to be spot on with the stinger tach.

[bigaaron]

I think it only applies to the 7M ignitor. My 1JZ with the stock tach seem to be spot on with the stinger tach.

Give this man a prize! :icon_bigg

[10secdream]

Give this man a prize! :icon_bigg

What prize do I get?

[rakkasan]

I think it only applies to the 7M ignitor. My 1JZ with the stock tach seem to be spot on with the stinger tach.
Did you wire your tach directly into the Stinger tach wire? I've been trying to get my tach to work since I went to stinger....
Give this man a prize! :icon_bigg
LOL, ass :sarcasm:

[5uprahboy]

Regarding this has made me realize, I have a few things to share.
My tach seems to be a little "low" on the reading side. When I'm doing 7,800rpm my tacho is only reading slightly more than 7,000rpm. Maybe I need to find a higher or lower resistance resistor. Haven’t tested yet.

As for idle control - the stinger has no way to control the stepper motor ICV we use so the tuner in NZ who deals with these a lot adjusted my idle screw all the way out, and adjusted the fuel and ignition maps so the idle would settle down. When warm it hunts which is fine by me because it means cold start is mint! Problem solved!

As for the ignitor and coil side of things. Aaron don't take this the wrong way, you know I tried all I could but I never managed to get your diode matrix it to work. It annoyed the hell out of me as I believe it does work and should've for me. End of the day I used a V6 Mitsi wasted spark ignitor and 7M-GTE coils. Problem solved.

Fuel pump wiring as Aaron said is perfect! Works a treat :)

Oh yeah, the aux input. I have mine on a basic on/off switch. I don't have it on a single pole dual throw – I have used it for both “Two step rev limiter” and “Drag antilag”. When switched off, I’ve not had any problems with interference etc (that I’ve noticed)

I’m sure there’s other stuff I’m forgetting.....

[bigaaron]

Regarding this has made me realize, I have a few things to share.
My tach seems to be a little "low" on the reading side. When I'm doing 7,800rpm my tacho is only reading slightly more than 7,000rpm. Maybe I need to find a higher or lower resistance resistor. Haven’t tested yet.

As for idle control - the stinger has no way to control the stepper motor ICV we use so the tuner in NZ who deals with these a lot adjusted my idle screw all the way out, and adjusted the fuel and ignition maps so the idle would settle down. When warm it hunts which is fine by me because it means cold start is mint! Problem solved!

As for the ignitor and coil side of things. Aaron don't take this the wrong way, you know I tried all I could but I never managed to get your diode matrix it to work. It annoyed the hell out of me as I believe it does work and should've for me. End of the day I used a V6 Mitsi wasted spark ignitor and 7M-GTE coils. Problem solved.

Fuel pump wiring as Aaron said is perfect! Works a treat :)

Oh yeah, the aux input. I have mine on a basic on/off switch. I don't have it on a single pole dual throw – I have used it for both “Two step rev limiter” and “Drag antilag”. When switched off, I’ve not had any problems with interference etc (that I’ve noticed)

I’m sure there’s other stuff I’m forgetting.....


The diode circuit most assuredly works absolutely great, I had it on my own car and a few customer cars too. It is a lot more tricky to wire up as per the diagram then it looks in the diagram :icon_wink

As for the tach being off at 7800 rpm, that would probably not be the Stinger or the resistor circuit causing it. What are you comparing it to?

As for the tach output, if your tach is not working correctly, try using that circuit to have the Stinger drive the stock tach. It's a black wire in the small yellow connector above the glove box. Most of the gauge wiring runs through that connector. I didn't notice any problem with the 1jz igniter running the stock tach with a Stinger though.

[5uprahboy]

The diode circuit most assuredly works absolutely great, I had it on my own car and a few customer cars too. It is a lot more tricky to wire up as per the diagram then it looks in the diagram :icon_wink

As for the tach being off at 7800 rpm, that would probably not be the Stinger or the resistor circuit causing it. What are you comparing it to?

As for the tach output, if your tach is not working correctly, try using that circuit to have the Stinger drive the stock tach. It's a black wire in the small yellow connector above the glove box. Most of the gauge wiring runs through that connector. I didn't notice any problem with the 1jz igniter running the stock tach with a Stinger though.

Yeah I know the diode circuit works. Hell I have no idea why it didn't work for me. I wired it perfectly. Maybe I had a bad batch of diodes lol.

Well the hard rev limit on the Stinger is set to 7800 (soft limit is for pansies :evil2:) but when at the drags it would be hitting rev limiter when the stock tacho was reading about 7,400rpm. More a fair bit more than the "just over 7,000rpm" I had previously mentioned sorry.

I'm using that stock tacho wire and the stinger to drive the tacho. Not the igniter's tach output (it wouldn't work for some reason - didn't troubleshoot as your "resister off the stinger output" trick :icon_razz).

[Pharnhyte]

So I was messing around with my Stinger EMS yesterday, trying to get it to run a bit leaner, because its black smoke all day. Well I realized that having a wideband would have been a good idea:nono:

So do I need just a wideband 02 sensor KIT like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AEM-UEGO-GAUGE-WIDEBAND-o2-CONTROLLER-FULL-KIT-30-4100_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ46100QQihZ007QQitemZ170230369558QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Or can I just buy a wideband sensor itself and hook it up through the Stinger?

I would like to learn how to tune the car myself, well actually I figured out how last night, but now I have to figure out the wideband side of it.

I am totally new to this EMS stuff, and I rather ask here then make a thread.

Or if anyone has a stock twins tune map that I can just download for now?

[bigaaron]

Stinger only works with the Innovate LC-1 wideband kit, or the Bosh LSM-11 sensor.

[5uprahboy]

You're better off getting on of these:

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lc1.php

I have a contact who "should" be able to get the LC1 for a good price, however she's in New Zealand so it'd require shipping from NZ to where-ever you are. I paid $350NZD for mine a while ago.
Great product, easy to use, easy to install, easy to set up, cheap and good quality.

[turbo joe]

I know my FAST can emulate a 1v sensor, so that should work fine as well. That's actually a fairly common feature.

[Pharnhyte]

The map that comes with the Stinger software is waaaaaay off, we had to make new maps from scratch for fuel and timing. Use one of our maps and make minor changes, it will be a lot less work in the long run.

Aaron, where exactly are your maps at? I can't find them anywhere on your site. I am looking for a stock twin turbo tune basically lol

I spoke to you on the phone yesterday about a GT35 turbo kit lol

[garagefujimoto]

Anyone have a good map for 850 injectors?
I need to get running and I don't have a stock fuel rail to do the initial start with 370's

Thanks

[10secdream]

Anyone have a good map for 850 injectors?
I need to get running and I don't have a stock fuel rail to do the initial start with 370's

Thanks

Why not just cut back the injector time scale to get the car started? Then you can adjust the map from there on.

[garagefujimoto]

Yeah I could.
I haven't really played with the program at all.

I suppose 850/370 = drop the values from 100 to 43%??

[10secdream]

Yeah I could.
I haven't really played with the program at all.

I suppose 850/370 = drop the values from 100 to 43%??

Precisely

[Pharnhyte]

I have my car running great now, changed the plugs pulls hard and it does not break up at all.

My only issue is cold starting, I have to give it gas in order for it to stay on, else it will stall about three times or so.

I have my Idle control valve thingy hooked up and I turned the Idle control off, what should I look at or adjust for cold starts?

Thanks

[10secdream]

To control my cold start my using a 12V air solenoid valve on the rpm based aux output. It works very well.

[5uprahboy]

I have my car running great now, changed the plugs pulls hard and it does not break up at all.

My only issue is cold starting, I have to give it gas in order for it to stay on, else it will stall about three times or so.

I have my Idle control valve thingy hooked up and I turned the Idle control off, what should I look at or adjust for cold starts?

Thanks

Wind your idle speed valve all the way out - the idle speed will shoot up - adjust your tune to lower the idle

[garagefujimoto]

Can somebody sketch a quick diagram of the other connection besides the harness?

I have some unconnected wires that aren't part of the plug, and I am also unsure of where the O2 sensor connects/

[garagefujimoto]

Edit:

I found a diagram.
Please tell me if I'm wrong.

The ECU gets power through the engine harness, no extra wiring.
The white/white on O2 are +/-
The Black/Grey are to the grey/orange signal wires.

[10secdream]

Edit:

I found a diagram.
Please tell me if I'm wrong.

The ECU gets power through the engine harness, no extra wiring.
The white/white on O2 are +/-
The Black/Grey are to the grey/orange signal wires.

That is correct. One white wire to 12V and the other to ground. Then just connect the signal wires according to the Stinger wiring diagram.

[Pharnhyte]

Thanks for the help so far guys, I just changed my settings for starting to the stock settings, and it starts up on the first try. The last issue that I am having now is that it idles at 550~or so... I set the idle control to manual and it put it at 850, but no change in idle lol....

Any ideas?

[turbo joe]

Thanks for the help so far guys, I just changed my settings for starting to the stock settings, and it starts up on the first try. The last issue that I am having now is that it idles at 550~or so... I set the idle control to manual and it put it at 850, but no change in idle lol....

Any ideas?

You have to play around with the base duty cycle until you can manually control the valve. Just sweep it up (or down) a bit until the idle increases.

[Pharnhyte]

You have to play around with the base duty cycle until you can manually control the valve. Just sweep it up (or down) a bit until the idle increases.

Alright I understand that totally, the car now idles fine when it warms up a bit, and when I start it after its been running for awhile.

The only thing that I cant get for the life of me is the cold start. The only way that it will stay on is if I keep my foot on the gas for like twenty seconds or so, or if the car is already warmed up.

The only thing I have touched is on the ECU setup screen, I have the cold start percentage at 55% I think. I don't know if thats to low or to high, and I have no idea what else I need to mess with, so if anyone knows that would be great



Thank you

[gravesdu_99]

Hey guys, I'm trying to get my supra running and I need help right from the start. I can't get the stinger to connect to my computer. When I say that I mean that I can't get the stinger online. I had to buy a serial to usb cable to connect the stinger to my computer. I don't know if this is my problem or not. Any help would be great. Thanks

[turbo joe]

Hey guys, I'm trying to get my supra running and I need help right from the start. I can't get the stinger to connect to my computer. When I say that I mean that I can't get the stinger online. I had to buy a serial to usb cable to connect the stinger to my computer. I don't know if this is my problem or not. Any help would be great. Thanks

When you use a USB/serial adapter, you have to figure out which "port" the computer is using, then select that port in the stinger software.

The way I locate it is to go to the Control Panel and "search for new hardware". The USB adapter will show up on one of the comm ports as a device.

[gravesdu_99]

thanks for the input. I've got it all figured out and the car started, but idles at 3000+ rpm. But I have about 50lb of oil pressure and although my wideband was bouncing all around it didn't go above 15+ afr. I've got a lot of work cut out for me though. I wished there was someone in NY that could help me with this.

[Pharnhyte]

thanks for the input. I've got it all figured out and the car started, but idles at 3000+ rpm. But I have about 50lb of oil pressure and although my wideband was bouncing all around it didn't go above 15+ afr. I've got a lot of work cut out for me though. I wished there was someone in NY that could help me with this.

Same here. I think any decent tuner would be able to figure out your problems though, from what I have read, the Stinger is one of the easiest to tune.

[turbo joe]

I've said it a million times...and I'll probably be saying it a million more times.

STEP AWAY FROM THE LAMBDA GAUGE.

:)

Really...

For one...The idle being too high has nothing to do with the ECU. There's too much air getting into the engine. Either the IAC is partially open, you have a vacuum leak or the throttle blade isn't closing properly.

Second...once you get the idle speed sorted, you just need to sweep the cells around where the engine is idling (a 4X4 or 6X6 block around the center will work fine) up and down until the engine idles the best, regardless of what the lambda says.

[gravesdu_99]

I've said it a million times...and I'll probably be saying it a million more times.

STEP AWAY FROM THE LAMBDA GAUGE.

:)

Really...

For one...The idle being too high has nothing to do with the ECU. There's too much air getting into the engine. Either the IAC is partially open, you have a vacuum leak or the throttle blade isn't closing properly.

Second...once you get the idle speed sorted, you just need to sweep the cells around where the engine is idling (a 4X4 or 6X6 block around the center will work fine) up and down until the engine idles the best, regardless of what the lambda says.

Yeah I still have some vaccum ports open. And I just wanted to keep track with the wideband, because it makes me feel safe inside. What is the IAC that you are talking about(Pics would help if you don't mind). And I talked to aaron about the cell thing but I didn't really understand it. This is my first motor swap that I have done all by myself, so I feel good that it acutally started first try.

[turbo joe]

Yeah I still have some vaccum ports open.

That's most likely why your idle is too high.


And I just wanted to keep track with the wideband, because it makes me feel safe inside.


The motor would quit running long before you could hurt it. Really, at anywhere less than full throttle, a lambda sensor is close to useless as a tuning tool...even at full throttle, it has only limited use without a dyno. If you make the car drive nicely (good throttle response, no smoking or stumbling/popping), you MUST be very near the correct air-fuel ratio...otherwise it wouldn't drive correctly.


What is the IAC that you are talking about(Pics would help if you don't mind). And I talked to aaron about the cell thing but I didn't really understand it. This is my first motor swap that I have done all by myself, so I feel good that it acutally started first try.

It's the "Idle Air Controller". It's the computer-controlled valve that your original ECU used to keep the idle at the proper speed for every condition. It allows air to go around the throttle blade.

The IAC on your car is basically an electric motor with a valve on the end. It's like a garden hose valve only faster...with the electric motor replacing your hand. If it was partially open when you disconnected the stock ECU, it won't close automatically on its own, you have to make it close by turning the motor on and forcing it to close. I'm pretty sure there's a diagram of the terminals in this forum somewhere. If I were you, I would get all the vacuum leaks fixed first and see where you're at...don't worry about it if you don't need to.

[suprahero]

^Why can't you live in the center of the States, and that way we could all drive to your house and you could cook us all a steak and tune our cars while we ate?..............:biglaugh:

I apologize for the fantasy world I live in sometimes.

[turbo joe]

I work pretty cheap...LOL...and I like to travel. :D

[suprahero]

I work pretty cheap...LOL...and I like to travel. :D

Dont' put it pass me. I've already flown Big Aaron out here once............:biglaugh:

[rakkasan]

Dont' put it pass me. I've already flown Big Aaron out here once............:biglaugh:

LOL, I sent my car TO him.....from Florida

[suprahero]

I say why go to Rome, when you can have Rome come to you?.........:biglaugh:

[turbo joe]

Yep...most of the time, it's cheaper to fly a person out than it is to ferry a car out for sure...at least for some tuning. :biglaugh:

[gravesdu_99]

Yep...most of the time, it's cheaper to fly a person out than it is to ferry a car out for sure...at least for some tuning. :biglaugh:

I might just take you up on an offer like that. I need to get my intercooler piping welded up and finish my downpipe first. I fixed all the vaccum leaks and now the car idles at about 900rpm.

[Bigzavs]

i currently have the map that rakkasan sent me for 550s, ive upgraded to 850 top feeds, how do i need to adjust the fuel on the 550 map to get it to work on the 850s?

[turbo joe]

I would just do a 35% negative fuel trim...since the injectors are about 35% larger. That should get you in the ballpark.

[gravesdu_99]

One more conversion from the master. I have some 682cc injectors. I figured that I would have to go -55% on the fuel trip percentage from marks 440cc injectors. Is this correct.

[turbo joe]

It's about the same as the other case...-35% trim should be close enough to get it up and running. If you have a good tune already, I would run the trim up and down a bit -- a little above and a little below -- until it runs about the same as it did.

Different types of injectors aren't going to function exactly the same, so you're most likely going to need to do a little tuning...but you should be close.

You wouldn't want to cut the fuel in half when the injectors aren't twice as large.

[kanji1jz]

okay, so here is what i am up against. i obviously have a stinger... on a 1jz. it starts great in the morning and above 160 and below 120 coolant temp. but not inbetween. i tried messing with the fuel comp. but i'm not sure that it actually worked since the engine had cooled off.

[turbo joe]

It's only that 40* range that it doesn't start in? That's pretty odd. What if you started it cold (starts fine) and you got it to 140 and shut it off? Would it fire right back up?

You might try and discern whether the hard start is a too rich or too lean condition. Most of the time I have a car that's too rich...it'll start...or at least try to start right away and you'll have the rich smell and it'll run rough after starting. Too lean and it just won't start at all or it will backfire or pop.

The other thing to keep in mind is that starting/cranking fuel on a Stinger is tuned in the main map, so you might want to play around in that cell a bit. Just watch where it's at when you're cranking and play around with that number.

[gravesdu_99]

I probably should have asked this question before, but do I need to have my stock narrow band wired up. The stinger has the option of no narrow band and thats what its set on. If I do need it, does anybody have the wiring diagram for this to a stock 1jz.

[turbo joe]

I never connect anything to the ECU, lambda-wise. I don't really see a good reason to do it.

[10secdream]

Hey guys I am looking for a bit more fuel for my cold start up. I was wondering if I add fuel to the Post Start or the Fuel Temp Comp.

[turbo joe]

Does it start ok? What exactly is the problem?

If you want more starting fuel (while cranking), just add it to the appropriate cell(s) in the fuel map.

[FIL]

hey guys... what are your opinions on antilag setup / switches?

I'm planning setting it up on a relay so that you have 1 switch (manually switched) to enable the system, and then another switch (eg clutch / handbrake - switched as part of normal driving) that switches the input on the Stinger...

Has anyone else set their system up like this, and regardless of how your is set up, how do you trigger the actual antilag event? Clutch switch? Handbrake switch? Programmed an eprom based system to read the speed sensor output and trigger a relay at 5kmh?

Would like to get as many different ideas as possible, not just the easiest ones, but also the really weird ones that might take a bit of effort to get right, but might also give a better result...

[10secdream]

Does it start ok? What exactly is the problem?

If you want more starting fuel (while cranking), just add it to the appropriate cell(s) in the fuel map.

The car starts just fine but it takes about 2 cranks to get it going. I would prefer not to add fuel into the map because once the car is warm it idles perfectly and would prefer to keep it that way.

[10secdream]

Hey has anyone noticed with version 4 that the soft rev does not actually hold a value no matter how many times you save it? Also I noticed that the 2 step disables and sets the rpm value to zero every time I turn off the ecu no matter how many times I try to write it.

[turbo joe]

The car starts just fine but it takes about 2 cranks to get it going. I would prefer not to add fuel into the map because once the car is warm it idles perfectly and would prefer to keep it that way.

You don't add fuel where it's idling, you add it where it's cranking. It doesn't idle and crank in the same cells...it cranks at/near atmospheric pressure at a few hundred RPM and idles at a lower pressure at around 1000.

If you want to add cranking fuel, the main map is where you do it.

[gravesdu_99]

Mine cranks at about 200-240. I'm not sure if I need to add fuel or take it away though. I have a really hard time getting the car to start. It just keeps cranking and wanting to start. No back firing, but I also just have the downpipe on, could this be part of the problem. I get it started once and the car will continue to start. So basically I'm having problems with my cold start. how much fuel should I add at a time, I'm not sure what a big jump in fuel would be.

[turbo joe]

Mine cranks at about 200-240. I'm not sure if I need to add fuel or take it away though. I have a really hard time getting the car to start. It just keeps cranking and wanting to start. No back firing, but I also just have the downpipe on, could this be part of the problem. I get it started once and the car will continue to start. So basically I'm having problems with my cold start. how much fuel should I add at a time, I'm not sure what a big jump in fuel would be.

Just add one or two at a time in that cell and try it. You'll know pretty quickly if it helps.

Just remember that you only get one truly cold start every 6-8 hours. Once you start it...or crank it for a while, it's not a cold start anymore. There's some heat and some fuel in the cylinder (even if it doesn't show in the water), and that changes things.

[bigaaron]

If you don't have any cold idle valve or idle speed control installed, cold starts will be a little difficult. Are you saying that you're putting 240 in one of the squares on the map? :aigo: I have never had to put any more then 100 in any square on the map, so you are probably flooding it which is why it will not start.

[turbo joe]

If you don't have any cold idle valve or idle speed control installed, cold starts will be a little difficult. Are you saying that you're putting 240 in one of the squares on the map? :aigo: I have never had to put any more then 100 in any square on the map, so you are probably flooding it which is why it will not start.

I'm pretty sure he's talking about 200-240 RPM to ID the cell.

If it's too rich, it will never start...or blow out black smoke when it does start. He was saying that it would start after it cranked for a while...that means that it's just a little too lean deal, because it'll start with a little heat. A valve is more of a convenience...they'll start fine without a valve, you just have to set the idle up a little if you want it to start without giving it any throttle.

[bigaaron]

I do agree, I had one on my own car with no idle valve and it idled just fine, but then again.... I tuned it to idle just fine :)

[gravesdu_99]

On the idle control valve. I plugged the HUGE port, and then I connected the smaller port to the intake. Is this allowing the valve to work or should I have the Huge port connected some where, and if so where.

On another note. This is exactly what is going on. If I take marks 440 map and trim it by -35% for my 682cc injectors. And the car won't even make an attempt to start. So I went back to marks map and turn the car over I will get a little gurgle out of it. Then I turn the car off and on to put fuel to the injectors and after some time I can get the car to start.

[bigaaron]

You will probably want a wideband to get it running in the beginning, even though TurboJoe cringes when someone says that :biglaugh: You are not going to randomly put in numbers and have it run, you need to lean it out if its rich (you'll smell it if it's rich), or add fuel if it's lean. If you keep running it super rich like that you could foul the plugs and then it's going to miss. See if you can get a friend to help out that has done tuning on a standalone before, it sounds like your getting frusterated and going in circles with the adjustments, but someone with experience could have it idling perfect in 5 minutes, without a basemap.

[turbo joe]

You don't need a wideband to know if your motor starts...and you already have a map. It WAS running previously on that map, correct?.

If you had it running previously..or if you know that it's a good map, just move the trim up and down until it starts and runs well on the new injectors. If it won't start and the plugs are dry and it won't start, try adding 5% trim (or use -30 from the original map) and see if it starts. If it still doesn't start and the plugs are dry, add more positive (or use less negative from the original map). If the plugs are wet, then take away more trim. Is it not starting from being too rich or too lean?

You just need to figure out the trim number that will scale your map up and down to get you close. Get it running nice by using the trim (super easy), then worry about what it does at full throttle.

A Lambda sensor tells you the oxygen level of a running engine and infers the air/fuel ratio. It's not a smog sniffer (gas analyzer) that samples air and tells you the components. You need to have the car running properly to use one...and it's not going to help you get it started.

[gravesdu_99]

You don't need a wideband to know if your motor starts...and you already have a map. It WAS running previously on that map, correct?.

If you had it running previously..or if you know that it's a good map, just move the trim up and down until it starts and runs well on the new injectors. If it won't start and the plugs are dry and it won't start, try adding 5% trim (or use -30 from the original map) and see if it starts. If it still doesn't start and the plugs are dry, add more positive (or use less negative from the original map). If the plugs are wet, then take away more trim. Is it not starting from being too rich or too lean?

You just need to figure out the trim number that will scale your map up and down to get you close. Get it running nice by using the trim (super easy), then worry about what it does at full throttle.

A Lambda sensor tells you the oxygen level of a running engine and infers the air/fuel ratio. It's not a smog sniffer (gas analyzer) that samples air and tells you the components. You need to have the car running properly to use one...and it's not going to help you get it started.

That makes a lot of sense with the lambda turbo Joe.

I havn't taken the plugs out after I try to start it, but before I even try to start it. I take them out and clean them because they are fouled and very black from the map that I'm running.

I'm probably the one of the first people with standalone within an hour if not more of where I live, rednecks everywhere with camaros and firebirds. But there is a shop about an hour and a half away that I'm going to probably take it to and have them weld up an intercooler kit for me and dyno tune the car. I would just like to get it running by myself out of pride. As far as I know, they have the only dyno within 3 hours.

[turbo joe]

It's not too hard to get a car running with a Stinger...there are a couple things to know, but it's pretty easy as standalones go.

When you get ready to get going, just PM me your number and I'll try to help you through the startup stuff. It's just process..and you should be able to pull it off just fine.

That makes a lot of sense with the lambda turbo Joe.

I havn't taken the plugs out after I try to start it, but before I even try to start it. I take them out and clean them because they are fouled and very black from the map that I'm running.

I'm probably the one of the first people with standalone within an hour if not more of where I live, rednecks everywhere with camaros and firebirds. But there is a shop about an hour and a half away that I'm going to probably take it to and have them weld up an intercooler kit for me and dyno tune the car. I would just like to get it running by myself out of pride. As far as I know, they have the only dyno within 3 hours.

[frontierguy25]

Ok, I have just read this entire 13 page thread and haven't heard of anyone have this done with a 7M. I talked with Joe about this a little bit through pm. I have made a thread in the tech section because I'm trying to replace my hks safr and lex afm. I have most of the supporting mods that I need for some good hp, just need a good system to tune with.

What experiences have you guys had with this running on a 7M?

[suprahero]

Jugodegolf has this on his 92 supra with the 7mgte. It's fairly easy to tune as long as you have a little help from SM.

[rakkasan]

What experiences have you guys had with this running on a 7M?

LOL, he said running and 7M in the same sentence :biglaugh::sarcasm:

[bigaaron]

I had one on my 7m, did lots of tuning on it, it worked great. I can make a pnp harness for you for the 89+ cars.

[suprahero]

LOL, he said running and 7M in the same sentence :biglaugh::sarcasm:

Double negative.......contradiction in terms.......a play on words......:biglaugh:

[gravesdu_99]

Has anybody used the Bosch LSM-11 wideband sensor with the stinger. I was told that this would only be good for a dyno tuning. That you need to hold the car is a cell for a certain amount of time for the standalone to do it's thing. And its not easly done on the road.

[10secdream]

I am using the Bosch LSM-11 with the Stinger and I have had no problems using it to tune on the road. I just log a pull and tune from there.

[gravesdu_99]

I am using the Bosch LSM-11 with the Stinger and I have had no problems using it to tune on the road. I just log a pull and tune from there.

What kind of wiring was involved to hook it up. Is it something that you wiring into the plug and play harness or what.

[10secdream]

Yup you just wire it into the harness. Just follow the instructions on the Stinger manual. Pretty much the 2 white wires are the 12v and the negative for the heater and the other 2 wires are for the signal to communicate with the Stinger.

[frontierguy25]

Double negative.......contradiction in terms.......a play on words......:biglaugh:

I have had my 7M running about 400 rwhp now for 3 years with me raping the car daily and 10+ trips to the track. So many people start with the 7M start modding it and don't know their head from their ass and go 1J when they blow up their 7M. Mine has JE pistons and HKS HG and some other stuff that I did first.

I'm really liking this Stinger and Aaron I'll be calling you with a couple of questions.

Thanks guys for the help!

[Bigzavs]

hey guys, i did the fuel pump relay like aarons picture showed for the stinger, but i am not getting any power to the pumps, i had to do the 12v mod jumper to get them to come on

any ideas?

[Krister]

I searched this thread but didnt find the answer. Is Stinger wasted spark or not?

[10secdream]

Yes the Stinger uses wasted spark as it has the ability to only control 4 ignitors.

[gravesdu_99]

Hey guys, I had some problems with the car, but now i'm back to trying to tune the car. I've got a couple problems to start with. The car is idling at about 2300 rpm and according to the stinger I'm at about 10psi of vaccum. The aem boost says about 7psi of vaccum. Is this a good amount or do I still have a leak somewhere. I took my idle control valve off and made a plate to put over it, but used the stock gasket, not sure if some air is getting by there or not.

turbojoe, if the offer still stands to help me out let me know and I'll pm you my number. I have wednesdays off or on the weekend.

[rakkasan]

Hey guys, I had some problems with the car, but now i'm back to trying to tune the car. I've got a couple problems to start with. The car is idling at about 2300 rpm and according to the stinger I'm at about 10psi of vaccum. The aem boost says about 7psi of vaccum. Is this a good amount or do I still have a leak somewhere. I took my idle control valve off and made a plate to put over it, but used the stock gasket, not sure if some air is getting by there or not.

turbojoe, if the offer still stands to help me out let me know and I'll pm you my number. I have wednesdays off or on the weekend.

If your vacuum lines are attached at two different locations, then I would say yas, you have a leak.

One way to check is to swap the two lines around and see if stinger reads 7psi and your aem gauge reads 10psi. If so, start looking....

[gravesdu_99]

yeah, the aem is at the front of the intake and the stinger is at the back of the intake. What kind of numbers should I see for vaccum.

[bigaaron]

I think that the difference is that the stinger is reading in PSIA but the gauge reads in PSIG. Absolute vacuum is different then gauge vacuum.

Read this, a good explaination of this subject:
http://www.dynisco.com/literature/Application%20Notes/Process/GageAbsPress.pdf

As far as your idle being too high, it must be pulling air in from somewhere, did you inspect the throttle plate stops and make sure the throttle is closing all the way? It could not idle too high if it didn't have enough air getting into the intake plenum from somewhere.

[gravesdu_99]

I think that the difference is that the stinger is reading in PSIA but the gauge reads in PSIG. Absolute vacuum is different then gauge vacuum.

Read this, a good explaination of this subject:
http://www.dynisco.com/literature/Application%20Notes/Process/GageAbsPress.pdf

As far as your idle being too high, it must be pulling air in from somewhere, did you inspect the throttle plate stops and make sure the throttle is closing all the way? It could not idle too high if it didn't have enough air getting into the intake plenum from somewhere.


I backed the stop out all the way and it it didn't change it at all. I take it that it would still idle right even if my map wasn't right.

Also while I got you aaron. I bought a 2jz throttle cable from you and the casing is to short, but the cable has a lot of slack. When I got the motor you said that it was from a soarer. What other cable should I try.

Also would you have any maps closer to my set up that you could send me. 1jz, 682cc high impedance injectors, gt40-82.

[xsjado]

Will be getting my Stinger tuned in the next few weeks, also in search of a map with 682cc injectors. Or would I be better off tweaking the map in the first post to suit my setup?

[10secdream]

The first map uses the stock 1JZ ignition table and then for the fuel just modify the fuel map to compensate for the larger injectors. Since that map is for 440cc injectors 440/682 = 0.65

Since the fuel in the map is 100% you have to bring it down to 65%.

[gravesdu_99]

It's about the same as the other case...-35% trim should be close enough to get it up and running. If you have a good tune already, I would run the trim up and down a bit -- a little above and a little below -- until it runs about the same as it did.

Different types of injectors aren't going to function exactly the same, so you're most likely going to need to do a little tuning...but you should be close.

You wouldn't want to cut the fuel in half when the injectors aren't twice as large.

The first map uses the stock 1JZ ignition table and then for the fuel just modify the fuel map to compensate for the larger injectors. Since that map is for 440cc injectors 440/682 = 0.65

Since the fuel in the map is 100% you have to bring it down to 65%.

Just something else for thought, maybe a starting point and then work your way down farther.

[quake]

don't bother trying to share maps each car is diffrent, even with the same parts. Best thing to do is start your own map for your own car if you do get a map lower timing #'s under boost and bring them up slowly on the dyno. Also don't just leave the dyno and think you are all set. I have 2 maps one for dyno and one for street your af's will change even with the same map..

[quake]

Use the stinger as follows first make sure you have another means of transportation as u might be down for a few days.


1. the car is in good running condition

2. go into the trims section and raise untill car wants to start

3. hold the space bar down when cranking and adjust the highlighted cells untill the car starts. (also the cells around it)

4. now the car is running, allow it to warm up and set your idle with the throttle body adjustment (it will chang as car warms up adjust accordingly)

5. under vac most of your cells will be lower than that used to start the car.

6. throttle up in small increments and adjust fuel in that range -make up the rest of the #'s as you go up- now drive the car and see what it wants more or less fuel. Too much fuel will will bog down and too little will sputter

MAKE ALL CHANGES IN SMALL INCREMENTS AND DONT EVEN THINK OF BOOST UNTILL THE CAR RUNS PERFECT UNDER VAC.

[gravesdu_99]

What exactly does the space bar do. Also how big of a difference should there be inbetween cells a 0001 increase at the most or is there a good rule of thumb.

For those that are street tuning a 1jz running stinger. I was wondering what values you are setting to zero. Aka (accelerator enrichment, enrichment duration), (engine water temp. compensation, air temp. compensation) under the fuel temp. compensation column on the stinger . Or should the accelerator and enrichment values be left alone while street tuning.

[quake]

What exactly does the space bar do. Also how big of a difference should there be inbetween cells a 0001 increase at the most or is there a good rule of thumb.

For those that are street tuning a 1jz running stinger. I was wondering what values you are setting to zero. Aka (accelerator enrichment, enrichment duration), (engine water temp. compensation, air temp. compensation) under the fuel temp. compensation column on the stinger . Or should the accelerator and enrichment values be left alone while street tuning.

a few questions are good but you need to go under the help section and print the full section and read all functions till you understand. You don't want to go in blind and learn what a function does on your car and risk hurting it.

[gravesdu_99]

quake, thanks for the info. I didn't even know that information was there. Thats helped clear up a lot. Right now I'm in the middle of fixing an oil drain plug leak and then hopefully back to trying to tune. And thanks for the pm.

[GotTurbos?]

Are any of you guys having issues with the software? Mine is always freezing and a step behind where I usually want it to be. Simple things with it don't work... like the ability to open files smoothly and maximize the screen. Its getting pretty annoying. Does anybody have another copy of the software they want to send me?

Jon

edit: got another link to the software, we'll have to see if this one is smoother. So far so good.

[quake]

Are any of you guys having issues with the software? Mine is always freezing and a step behind where I usually want it to be. Simple things with it don't work... like the ability to open files smoothly and maximize the screen. Its getting pretty annoying. Does anybody have another copy of the software they want to send me?

Jon

edit: got another link to the software, we'll have to see if this one is smoother. So far so good.
sometimes you will enter a value and the rpm & boost gauge will freeze. Just hit the enter twice and it will move along. Also if you click on say file open and it won't then hold control and hit the correct letter.

[suprahero]

Sometimes my car will run rich if it's cooler outside or overcast. Would I change the airtemp fuel trim (I can't remember exactly what it's called) to a negative number since it's on 0? Does that question make sense? My car usually runs around 14.5- 15.2, but it does sometimes run rich when it's cooler, what would be the best way to fix this?

[suprahero]

Has anyone used the Stinger to control boost and if so, would you mind explaining to me how to set it up? I've read it but I can't find out how to do it. Thanks.

[turbo87targa]

is there a base map anywhere around here for 550's on a 7m?


or for that matter is there a harness for the pre 89 mk3s? (87 to be specific)

[turbo87targa]

does anyone know? or is the EMS the way to go for pre 89?

[bigaaron]

is there a base map anywhere around here for 550's on a 7m?


or for that matter is there a harness for the pre 89 mk3s? (87 to be specific)

Yes, I have a 550cc 7m basemap, and yes, I can make a pre-89 pnp harness if you send me your old stock ecu to pull the ecu male connector out of.

[turbo87targa]

Yes, I have a 550cc 7m basemap, and yes, I can make a pre-89 pnp harness if you send me your old stock ecu to pull the ecu male connector out of.

ahhh, thank you. and with stinger being a full stand alone it will alow me to get rid of my maf and a few other original sensors right?

[bigaaron]

ahhh, thank you. and with stinger being a full stand alone it will alow me to get rid of my maf and a few other original sensors right?

Yes, it basically only needs the ecu coolant temp sensor, cps, and tps. It has a map sensor built in.

[turbo87targa]

sweet. so thats the standalone im goin with when i do my upgrade in a few weeks here. so ill get back to you on this aaron. thanks again.

[Pharnhyte]

Guys I really need help, my car has the hardest time starting in cold weather, I have to crank it so long now, and I am getting frustrated, can someone at least please show me a screen shot for the injector cold start stuff, cold start percentages, anything, or even if someone has a 1jz map. If you have a map, I will paypal you money lol, I am about to trade my Stinger for a Mines ECU or something, so please anything/info to help with cold starts.

Steve

[quake]

Thought i covered this but you need lots of fuel during cranking. when the car is cold as in been sitting for 4hrs or more, plug in the laptop and press "read from ecu" when the car is ready press and hold the space bar, then start cranking. All the cells your car uses for cranking should be highlighted. Now go in and add more fuel to these cells. Much much more start with +5. Then crank again if the car starts then drive it.

After driving let it cool again full cold and repeat. You should now see a higher than most of your map peak for cranking fuel on the 3d display add as needed. When done the car should start by the second try or right on the first try. After starting most cars will want more fuel when the motor is cold. You know this cause the car will sputter when driving in vac on a cold motor. If so then go under fuel temp compensation and add more fuel for the colder water temps progressively adding less at the water temp rises and ending up at 0 by the time the car warms up.

[quake]

by the way water temp comp will only work right if you spent the time to calibrate the stinger properly for your temp sensor

[IJ.]

Quake: Doesn't it have "Cranking Compensation"?

<Edit> It does it's "Cold Crank" and is set as a %

Page 80 of the manual.

[quake]

Quake: Doesn't it have "Cranking Compensation"?

<Edit> It does it's "Cold Crank" and is set as a %

Page 80 of the manual.

has it in the manual but i have yet to see it. I think they screwed up, or the 8860 has it. The way i outlined works well though. By the way stay out of this thread, it's only for us poor people:biglaugh:

[IJ.]

8860 has a better version of it with 2 axis adjustment ;)
(page 83)

So you're saying it's in the manual but not in the software?

[quake]

8860 has a better version of it with 2 axis adjustment ;)
(page 83)

So you're saying it's in the manual but not in the software?

i have yet 2 c it, could be me though

[IJ.]

Just installed and had a play with the SW you're correct it's AWOL :(

[bigaaron]

by the way water temp comp will only work right if you spent the time to calibrate the stinger properly for your temp sensor

I have the tables for stock 1jz, 2jz, and 7m temp sensors.

[GotTurbos?]

Do you want to share them? Or do you sell them or what? Send me a PM.

[porsches4lunch]

No other maps???? Are there any 2JZGTE maps?

[Pharnhyte]

Thought i covered this but you need lots of fuel during cranking. when the car is cold as in been sitting for 4hrs or more, plug in the laptop and press "read from ecu" when the car is ready press and hold the space bar, then start cranking. All the cells your car uses for cranking should be highlighted. Now go in and add more fuel to these cells. Much much more start with +5. Then crank again if the car starts then drive it.

After driving let it cool again full cold and repeat. You should now see a higher than most of your map peak for cranking fuel on the 3d display add as needed. When done the car should start by the second try or right on the first try. After starting most cars will want more fuel when the motor is cold. You know this cause the car will sputter when driving in vac on a cold motor. If so then go under fuel temp compensation and add more fuel for the colder water temps progressively adding less at the water temp rises and ending up at 0 by the time the car warms up.

Thank you very much, I will do this.

[rakkasan]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v379/BigAaron/driftmotion/stingertostocktach.jpg

Hey Aaron,

What's the purpose of the resistor?

[IJ.]

That's a pullup/down Mark.

I thought going on my brief play with the Stinger SW yesterday it had onboard resistors that you can switch?

[hottscennessey]

I just sent the Stinger guys a message regaurding my problem.

I run a narrowband 02 sensor to give me a little better fuel economy during cruising.. the only problem is whenever the car idles for more than 20 seconds, the narrowband function over-corrects my idle and causes the engine to hunt.

I've been trying to tune this out for a year with no avail. I've touched everything. As soon as I turn the narrowband mode off, the hunting stops.

The narrowband feature is great, but there is no operational "window" for it. You can only select -20KPA and down (more vac). You can't select.. say.. -20KPA to -60KPA. That would be too easy...

Just keep this in mind if any of you are going to go through the trouble of installing a narrowband 02.

I'll update if they get back to me/update the software.. which they havn't done yet for any of my requests :3d_frown:.

[IJ.]

Scott: It's a bit "ugly" but could you use an AUX channel based on TPS to shut the NB signal off at idle?

[hottscennessey]

There's an idea! I was thinking about how I could wire up a switch to control it, I guess I could just kill the power to the NB02 with a manual switch/aux out. Thanks!

For now I lowered the "allowable change %" for the stinger's control over the NB02 and t helped out quite a little bit at idle, but I know my fuel economy will suffer.

[IJ.]

There's always a workaround if you think about it hard enough ;)

As I said it's ugly but will do the trick.

I'd just switch the signal on/off as required using a solid state relay.

0>2% Tps = 0
3>20% Tps = 100
21>100% Tps = 0

[hottscennessey]

Good call, as I recall you chance pre-maturely killing an O2 sensor by exposing it to heat without power going to it.

Speaking of finding walkarounds, the idle control was so finiky for the stinger I finally hardwired a switch for it. It's crude but it works, and also saves one of your auxilary outputs for something more important. Hopefully someone will find that helpful for their coldstarts.

[rakkasan]

Just installed and had a play with the SW you're correct it's AWOL :(

It was on an earlier version of the software, but they removed it during an update. I have emailed EMS and asked them to put it back in. No word yet, but I will post what I recieve from them.

It was a handy tool, I don't know why they dropped it.....

[rakkasan]

That's a pullup/down Mark.

I thought going on my brief play with the Stinger SW yesterday it had onboard resistors that you can switch?

I thought so too, I'll have to dig around to find the correct answer.

[bigaaron]

I think the built in pull-up resistor is only selectable for the cam/crank trigger inputs.

[rakkasan]

I think the built in pull-up resistor is only selectable for the cam/crank trigger inputs.

That was the only reference to a BIP-U resistor I crossed. Still looking though...

[bigaaron]

My circuit works fine and costs about $0.25 lol

[rakkasan]

My circuit works fine and costs about $0.25 lol

Hope so, I'll work it in this weekend.....

BTW Aaron, I need to get in touch with you, when is a good time?

[Bigzavs]

hey guys, what kind of gas mileage are yall getting on your stinger cars?

[GotTurbos?]

hey guys, what kind of gas mileage are yall getting on your stinger cars?

I got 14-15mpg on my last tank, barely any boosting. AFR's at cruise are decent enough but I can't seem to get decel fuel cut to where it is supposed to be, and it just isn't running smooth enough to where I feel the car is being efficient.

[suprahero]

where do you have your decel set at?

[GotTurbos?]

where do you have your decel set at?

Off... I tried several spots between -12.0 and -13, and there was no good point, it would either not cut fuel under decel, or it would cut fuel and not catch itself at idle and the car would die when I put the clutch in. My tuner and I needed to drive to the shop and get some dyno time so we just turned it off and made the drive, I have never turned it back on because all it was doing was stalling my car :(

[suprahero]

I have mine set at around -13 I'm pretty sure. My laptop is dead so I can't see for sure. Mine works perfectly though. I'll make sure about mine tomorrow. Good luck.

[bigaaron]

The decel fuel cut is very easy to set. You read what it is when you decel, and set it just barely under that. Send me your map so I can check it out. There is definitely a noticeable difference between idle vacuum and the vacuum reached when you are using the engine to decel. I have seen so many people just completely ignore the outer edges of the map, then wonder why it runs poorly unless they are on the throttle. If it wants to stall when you push in the clutch, it's probably because the point on the map it hits after you push in the clutch is too rich or lean, or the timing is too low at that spot. Remember, ANY standalone is only going to drive as well as it's tuned. If it's too rich at cruising speed your gas mileage is going to suck. I'm getting great gas mileage and wonderful driveability with mine, if I took you for a ride in my car you would think I have a stock ecu in it. You have to street tune it and work out the parts of the map you can't easily get to on the dyno. I do have some tips on tuning it that will help, I need to make a few more videos.

[suprahero]

I do have some tips on tuning it that will help, I need to make a few more videos.

Please do.

[IJ.]

Word of caution on decel cut from my own experience if you're using a thin ring set in your engine do NOT set it so it cuts ALL fuel, aim for around lambda 1.25.

The reason for this is I was cutting all fuel and managed to flutter the rings badly enough to go through 1Qt of oil in 370 miles in an engine that hadn't used a drop of Oil in 11 hours of dyno time :(

[suprahero]

What is lambda 1.25? I have mine set so that on decel it goes to 13.5-14.5 afrs.

[gravesdu_99]

Yes aaron please make some informational videos on the stinger. I just got mine running yesterday. It feels great to have it finally running. I still have a lot of work and a lot of tunning, but 8lbs on a gt4082 is fun.

[IJ.]

What is lambda 1.25? I have mine set so that on decel it goes to 13.5-14.5 afrs.

J: About 17.5:1, it's just to save fuel on decel, but you still need some fuel to keep combustion pressure on the rings so it doesn't suck oil past them if you're using race style rings.

[suprahero]

I thought it was Ian, but just making sure. Thanks.

[IJ.]

Pulling it back to stoich (14.7) on decel isn't really doing much J ;)

I set up a couple of high vac lines on the fuel table and another in the WB02 Aim table then tweak it by finding a big hill and let it engine brake to set the full vac setting.

[suprahero]

Before I had it set, it would go really rich under decel or when the clutch was pressed in. I'll try to set it up where it goes a little leaner when I get it running. My car hasn't been cranked in almost a month and that's probably a record for me except when I was doing my 1jz swap.

[rakkasan]

hey guys, what kind of gas mileage are yall getting on your stinger cars?

Staying out of the boost I got about 27mpg city.....

[suprahero]

Damn!!!!!! I'll never get 27mpg because I can't stay out of boost, but I got 21mpg when I went to Texas.

[Pharnhyte]

Staying out of the boost I got about 27mpg city.....

Are you still running on stock twins, and stock injectors? If so, can I please get your map? I am sick of my car taking so long to start on cold mornings.


Thanks

[gravesdu_99]

quick question about the coolent temperature enrichment. When I change the values I can't get it to save. I write it to the ecu and save it, but when I close it and open it back up all the settings are back to where they were before. Anybody got any idea as to what I'm doing wrong.

[jmcboost]

Has anyone used the Stinger to control boost and if so, would you mind explaining to me how to set it up? I've read it but I can't find out how to do it. Thanks.

Yeah, I want to know the same....... Anybody?

[Zerocool]

I am interested in finding out if high and low impedance makes a difference with the stand alone or if you half to wire in the 7m resister or not for low impedance injectors, Also I am interested in learning more about the boost controller and anti lag setup :)

[Justin727]

i am interested in finding out if high and low impedance makes a difference with the stand alone or if you half to wire in the 7m resister or not for low impedance injectors, also i am interested in learning more about the boost controller and anti lag setup :)


ditto

[suprahero]

Is anyone using the Stinger to control a meth-injection kit? Is this possible using the Stinger?

[jmcboost]

Is anyone using the Stinger to control a meth-injection kit? Is this possible using the Stinger?

I think Hottscennessy is.

[hottscennessey]

Yes, I am. Just a forewarning, on my car meth is injected into the motor at above 16 PSI, the map is tuned assuming methanol will be entering the motor above 16 PSI, meaning no failsafes..

If you want failsafes, you'll have to figure something else out.. or email EMS Stinger asking for more advanced auxilary controls in their software.

[suprahero]

I can deal with no failsafes. I was actually wanting mine to come on at about 14 psi, and I was going to set my boost controller to 18-19 psi with 93 octane and 50/50 meth. I will check my reservoir before I drive it to make sure I'm not going to run out.

Scott, did you only use one injector and is it between the bov and the tb?

[bigaaron]

I have tried both with and without the resistor on low impedance injectors, it seemed to have a smoother idle with the resistor wired in and the injector output set to "10-14 ohms". It can drive low impedance injectors directly though, input whatever the injector resistance is as your injector ohm setting.

[Zerocool]

I have tried both with and without the resistor on low impedance injectors, it seemed to have a smoother idle with the resistor wired in and the injector output set to "10-14 ohms". It can drive low impedance injectors directly though, input whatever the injector resistance is as your injector ohm setting.

Thanks Aaron for that answer, my other question would be then has anybody setup anti lag yet and have it working properly?

[hottscennessey]

Yea, I have it working. It just doesn't 2 step, it's purely ignition retard for building boost.

[bigaaron]

I believe the Stinger can do 2 step OR antilag, but not both at the same time. It only has one input to contol one thing at a time.

[rakkasan]

Are you still running on stock twins, and stock injectors? If so, can I please get your map? I am sick of my car taking so long to start on cold mornings.


Thanks

single w/ 440cc's. You can download my map on the first page. Cold starts are a little temperamental below 50 degrees, but not too bad.

[rakkasan]

Hey Aaron, did you have to order the 2.5k resistor? Every place that sells electrical supplies in the area stock 2.2k's, but the 2.5k's are considered special order. Just curious.....

[macjac69]

2 questions Rakkasan

1. Say I used someone else's laptop to dyno tune my car, is there a way to pull that tune from my Stinger using the software as I have a laptop now.

2. If not how would your tune work for me I have a single T60 with 540CC injectors.

[suprahero]

Mike, my tune might be close for your car. My tune was for the 35r which is about 61mm, and I have 624cc injectors. You can always decrease the fuel by a percentage like maybe 15% and see how that goes. I think that maybe Mark's tune will be closer though.

Call me if I can help you in any way.

[GotTurbos?]

2 questions Rakkasan

1. Say I used someone else's laptop to dyno tune my car, is there a way to pull that tune from my Stinger using the software as I have a laptop now.

2. If not how would your tune work for me I have a single T60 with 540CC injectors.


You can pull the tune by reading from the ECU, then saving the file. Then you have a save of the current tune.

[gravesdu_99]

Jay just wondering if you wouldn't mind posting your tune like mark did. Your set up sounds close to mine. I have a gt4082 with 640cc injectors.

Also If you don't mind I was wondering how much it cost you to rent aaron for a weekend of tuning. I know that I live a lot more north than you do, but just looking for a ball park figure. I would like to take it to a tuner, but I don't think that they would know what to do, and I know that aaron has done these many times. If not I will probably send the car out to him.

[suprahero]

Graves, I will post up my tune but I can't right now. I will charge up my laptop and get it on here asap.

As far as renting Aaron.............I'm not so sure he's for hire right now. I caught him at a great time a couple of years ago when he was wanting to do some study on the inbreeding of rednecks and what better place to start than right here in Alabama.
He will however be glad to tune your car if it was shipped out to him. You may want to send him a pm and ask him though. Good luck.

[turbo87targa]

Yea, I have it working. It just doesn't 2 step, it's purely ignition retard for building boost.
**off topic**

whats the difference in anti lag and 2 step? doesnt 2 stepping kill turbos?

is anti lag like building boost without a load on the engine, and 2 step is the small rev limiter for a nicer launch?

[IJ.]

AntiLag is retading the Timing and injecting fuel along with additional air so the fuel ignites between the head and the Turbo, this turns the Turbo into a Gas Turbine engine on it's own and can make boost instantly.

AL can be configured so it's active whenever you need instant boost.

It's VERY hard on all of the hot side components.

2 Step is a second RPM limit at a level where the engine can build boost as while it's on the limiter you have some unburnt fuel in the exhaust that ignites and is a poor cousin to true antilag.

It's usually used in conjunction with launch control for out of the hole acceleration.

[macjac69]

You can pull the tune by reading from the ECU, then saving the file. Then you have a save of the current tune.

What are the steps to do this?

Jay whenever u post up I might have to look at yours also.

[GotTurbos?]

What are the steps to do this?

Jay whenever u post up I might have to look at yours also.

Get your laptop to connect to the stinger... once you have it connected it will say "do you want to read from the ecu?" Yes... you do. Read from it and save the file.

You can also do this at any time while connected by going to the menu up top and going ECU ---> Read from ECU. Pretty simple :)

[suprahero]

I think he's trying to find another tune he had done a while back, and not the one that is on there right now. I doubt he can do what he's wanting to do. The guy that has his tunes on file won't return his phone call, so he's trying to find a way to retrieve it from his Stinger.

[GotTurbos?]

I think he's trying to find another tune he had done a while back, and not the one that is on there right now. I doubt he can do what he's wanting to do. The guy that has his tunes on file won't return his phone call, so he's trying to find a way to retrieve it from his Stinger.

"Say I used someone else's laptop to dyno tune my car, is there a way to pull that tune from my Stinger using the software as I have a laptop now."

I think he just wants his current file on his own laptop.

[gravesdu_99]

Has anybody just taken there stinger to a tuner without a base tune done to it. I'm just worried about the set up properties. I'm not sure where some stuff should be set at. Thats why I was hoping that someone else could put there tune up or that aaron would do a complete instructional video on how to tune this thing. This is a very easy system to use, but when you've never used one before it is a little confusing and I'm still fuzzy on some stuff.

[macjac69]

Yea,
I am actually just trying to get the tune that is on it now. Jay, it's the same one that we did in B'ham once I got my PNP harness problem fixed. Again I appreciate all the help guys.

[suprahero]

Get your laptop to connect to the stinger... once you have it connected it will say "do you want to read from the ecu?" Yes... you do. Read from it and save the file.

You can also do this at any time while connected by going to the menu up top and going ECU ---> Read from ECU. Pretty simple :)

It's really simple. Do just like above post saids. You can call me if you have any questions at all.

[bigaaron]

Has anybody just taken there stinger to a tuner without a base tune done to it. I'm just worried about the set up properties. I'm not sure where some stuff should be set at. Thats why I was hoping that someone else could put there tune up or that aaron would do a complete instructional video on how to tune this thing. This is a very easy system to use, but when you've never used one before it is a little confusing and I'm still fuzzy on some stuff.

You are MUCH better off using a pre-made map for any other 1jz or 2jz setup, and just adjusting it for your engine. Having a dyno shop make a map from scratch would be waaaaay too time consuming and expensive. I just got a vvti 1jz car running on a 6860 running and completely drivable using a normal 1jz map, I just made a slight change to the fuel trim percentage and it was just fine tuning after that. The whole idea of trying to find a map for an engine with your exact setup is really unnecessary. All the normal 1jz cars are going to have basically the same timing map, same trigger and sensor settings, and the fuel map is going to look basically the same.

[macjac69]

Aaron,
Does that base map theorum apply to modified cars ie: single turbos, bigger injectors and such?
Also I'm experiencing a fuel pressure drop when trying to turn up boost levels right now I running about 13 PSI but turning it up higer and my fuel pressure falls way low. I'm thinking I've got a restriction problem MAINLY that stock fuel pressure dampner(I guess that's what its called?) Exactly what does that thing do anyways?

Will that 1j bypass line u sell help me out?

[bigaaron]

Aaron,
Does that base map theorum apply to modified cars ie: single turbos, bigger injectors and such?
Also I'm experiencing a fuel pressure drop when trying to turn up boost levels right now I running about 13 PSI but turning it up higer and my fuel pressure falls way low. I'm thinking I've got a restriction problem MAINLY that stock fuel pressure dampner(I guess that's what its called?) Exactly what does that thing do anyways?

Will that 1j bypass line u sell help me out?

The only part of the map that will really change when you go big single is the rpm that the turbo spools and the amount fuel needed under boost. Tweaking a map from twins to single is not hard to do at all.

The way you described it, I don't think the dampener would be causing the problem, it's probably the pump, wiring to the pump, pump relay, or something like that. The dampener bypass hose alone would probably not fix your situation. The AFPR kit is a nice upgrade when you have a higher pressure/volume fuel pump. Depending on your size of injectors, the AFPR kit can be used in tuning also. You can get more out of stock injectors by raising the static fuel pressure from 38psi to around 50psi. If you are running a lot of boost though, bigger injectors are always recommended. Also, remember that changing any of these major items in the fuel system will require some tuning again, so it's best to try to do the basic upgrades at one time.

[macjac69]

The setup I have should be good for up to 400 hp but it isn't Ive got your APFR kit, a T-60 turbonetics, 540 injectors and a walbro pump.

[bigaaron]

Did you make sure the fuel pump resistor is not wired in still? Maybe its running through the resistor all the time?

[macjac69]

Haven't checked that yet..

[suprahero]

Here is my tune.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1181718&postcount=387

[macjac69]

How do you make this readable/workable on the EMS program?

[10secdream]

Replace .txt to .em4

[suprahero]

what he said.

[5uprahboy]

Here is my tune.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1181718&postcount=387

bloody hell - what's up with the massive change in the fuel map from 19.22psi to 21.47??

[mr_240sx]

mayb sound stupid but if the stinger controls electric fans it should be able to control the hydro fan right? and the temp that it would kick on would be controlable right?

[suprahero]

bloody hell - what's up with the massive change in the fuel map from 19.22psi to 21.47??

I don't have it tuned that high up in the map. My boost cut is set at 18psi.

I haven't been able to tune it up there since my boost keeps falling off drastically at around six thousand rpms.

[suprahero]

Question: When you let off of the accelerator, does your car go to lean. I have the decel set to go off at a certain vacuum level and I'm wondering if it's bad for my car to do this for an extended period of time. If I give it any gas at all, of course it puts more fuel to it. Here is a quick video so you can see what I'm talking about.
http://s36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/supraheroes/?action=view&current=afrsno1.flv

[suprahero]

The guage goes to --- once it's leaner than 18.0, so is it hurting the car to drive for say fifteen seconds with it at that reading or should I change my decel to something a little lower in the vacuum?

[Turbo Drifter]

The guage goes to --- once it's leaner than 18.0, so is it hurting the car to drive for say fifteen seconds with it at that reading or should I change my decel to something a little lower in the vacuum?

Jay all cars do that, there is no need to have any fuel in there in decel. Its not under any load and will not cause any damage.

[suprahero]

Just making sure. If I tear it up, I want it to be while beating the shit out of it and not coasting........:biglaugh:

[10secdream]

I was just chilling thinking about the Stinger tonight and was wondering if anyone has got the idle speed control function to work with a basic solenoid valve?

[gravesdu_99]

mayb sound stupid but if the stinger controls electric fans it should be able to control the hydro fan right? and the temp that it would kick on would be controlable right?

Wait a minute. I didn't know that stinger could do this. Can you give me a quick crash course on how to do that.

[10secdream]

Wait a minute. I didn't know that stinger could do this. Can you give me a quick crash course on how to do that.

Simple really. You just have to use one of your output circuits and have it set as an engine temp activated relay.

[gravesdu_99]

Simple really. You just have to use one of your output circuits and have it set as an engine temp activated relay.

Sweet I'll have to figure this out, because using switches was driving me nuts.

Anybody using a wideband to do datalogging and then adjusting your map from there using rpm points, psi points and afr. I find it really have to watch the afr while holding 10psi. Staying under the speed limit is also a little hard. Also, I know that the aem wideband can't be plugged into the stinger. Just wondering if anybody can tell me why not.

[rakkasan]

I was just chilling thinking about the Stinger tonight and was wondering if anyone has got the idle speed control function to work with a basic solenoid valve?

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64379&highlight=idle+valve+stinger

I have the valve, but I haven't had the time to wire it in. I'm not sure of the success Scott has had with it though

[Boost Lee]

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64379&highlight=idle+valve+stinger

I have the valve, but I haven't had the time to wire it in. I'm not sure of the success Scott has had with it though

Great success. :-)

Jeff