Stinger thread....

[10secdream]

See I have my idle control valve hooked up the same way but it idles a little high for my liking once the car is warmed up. It idles at around 1100-1200 rpm

[hottscennessey]

Try this:

first make sure sure your engine temp sensor is working properly

#4 Engine temp activated relay control

on above temp: -19*C
off above temp: 55*C

on below temp: 55*C
off below temp: -19*C

[Pharnhyte]

I am picking up a new laptop on Friday I think, the only problem though; is it lacks a serial port. Is there any way to hook it up to my stinger now, or do I just have to keep using my old laptop?


Thanks

[IJ.]

Usb>Serial adaptor

spend a few $$$ and get a good one as a lot of the cheaper ones won't work.

[rakkasan]

spend a few $$$ and get a good one as a lot of the cheaper ones won't work.

werd!!

[Boost Lee]

I am picking up a new laptop on Friday I think, the only problem though; is it lacks a serial port. Is there any way to hook it up to my stinger now, or do I just have to keep using my old laptop?


Thanks


Here you go. :)

USB to Serial Adapter Cable (http://store.driftmotion.com/Static/Itemusbtoserialadapter.php)

Get a good quality cable and support your vendors.....all at the same time!
:)

Jeff

[IJ.]

And not a bad price to boot ;)

[Pharnhyte]

single w/ 440cc's. You can download my map on the first page. Cold starts are a little temperamental below 50 degrees, but not too bad.

I am using your map, but and it runs good, except for cold starts, it took me more then five minutes this morning to get my car started. I just realized that you have 440's I have stock injectors, so do I add more fuel using the fuel trim percentage? I am guessing fifteen percent or so?

Thanks

Steve

Lol I am really about to go back to a stock ecu

[Zerocool]

I am also using suprahero and rakkasan's map and my idle is at almost 2k and the timing is at 30 degrees at idle and Im running supper rich lol does that have to do with any other settings on the stinger?

I haven't blocked off the ISC yet as when I do the car doesn't stay running for obvious reasons.

[figgie]

...and they say a base map works for everyone!

Folks, even though Rakksan was nice enough to post a map, do not use it as a basemap. Open it and understand what he did. That should be the end of the Rakksan map useage. As some of you have come to find out, what works with someones combination will probably not work with someone else's combination even if it is remarkably the same!

[Zerocool]

Well I ended up just loading the 1jzgte map and going to get my car to the dyno tuner asap it wasnt a big deal :).

[macjac69]

It would be nice if there was someone close to where I am to help me out with mine, I know I need to add fuel as I have the cold start issue and I'll probably kill my starter since it takes so many tries to get it cranked. I just don't wanna biff something up not knowing what I'm doing.

[suprahero]

Mike, have you tried holding down the space bar while you crank it to highlight those cells, and then adding fuel to the cells that are highlighted. It helped mine crank a little easier.

[10secdream]

Also I highly recommended adding in the 12V solenoid valve. At first I would have to wait 3 minutes before I could drive the car after a cold start. With the valve installed I can start the car from cold and start driving about 20 seconds later.

I did have to play with my cold start settings a bit but like suprahero said just add fuel to the cells highlighted. You can also play with the fuel temp comp and ign temp comp as well.

[gravesdu_99]

Also I highly recommended adding in the 12V solenoid valve. At first I would have to wait 3 minutes before I could drive the car after a cold start. With the valve installed I can start the car from cold and start driving about 20 seconds later.

I did have to play with my cold start settings a bit but like suprahero said just add fuel to the cells highlighted. You can also play with the fuel temp comp and ign temp comp as well.

You have a link for the solenoid valve. All the old ones are broken.

[Pharnhyte]

[shaeff edited: No advertising sales outside Classified forum.]

[macjac69]

I'll proaly try working with it when I get back home, I have to wait until it's really warm before I drive and then if it's under a load like headlights on or Hydro fan kicks on it wants to go dead like at a red light or just in neutral sitting still.

Other than that it drives pretty good.

[hottscennessey]

it's under a load like headlights on or Hydro fan kicks on it wants to go dead like at a red light or just in neutral sitting still.

Do you use narrowband feedback, or is a wideband hooked up to the stinger?

[rakkasan]

Mike, have you tried holding down the space bar while you crank it to highlight those cells, and then adding fuel to the cells that are highlighted. It helped mine crank a little easier.

No, I haven't, I'll have to do that....

[suprahero]

That was aimed at Mike (macjac)...........not Mark...........but you try it too.......:icon_bigg

Any more info on the 12 volt solenoid valve? Please. Pretty please.

[10secdream]

That was aimed at Mike (macjac)...........not Mark...........but you try it too.......:icon_bigg

Any more info on the 12 volt solenoid valve? Please. Pretty please.

I got my valve off ebay for about 12 dollars. Search for 12V air horn valve. I then plumbed it the intake manifold and connected it to the Stinger. I have yet to try the engine temp activated relay but I am sure it will work out just fine.

The only thing that I needed to do was set the idle when the engine was up to temperature.

[suprahero]

What did you connect it to on the stinger? Is there a write up somewhere that I can read? Where did you get your info from if you don't mind? I'd like to read up on it and then do mine. Thanks, Jay

[10secdream]

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64379&highlight=solenoid

Here is the thread.

[blackkarma]

putting together a wiring harness for my stinger to go on my 88...anyway wanted to know if i had the connections right:

# Stinger harness : Supra Harness
______________
1. ign 3 : IGDB
2. ign 4
3. aux o/p 3
4. aux o/p 1 : FP
5. lambda - : wideband
6. signal : VTA
7. eng temp : THW
8. trig : NE
9. ground : E01
10. +12v : Batt
11. prim inj : #10
12. sec/prim inj : #30
13. ign 2 : IGDA
14. ign 1 : IGF
15. aux o/p 3
16. aux o/p 2
17. input
18. air temp
19. lambda + : wideband
20. sync : G1
21. ground : G -
22. +5v : VC
23. prim inj : #20
24. sec/prim inj

[Turbo-a]

Hi everyone, ive got the stinger 6860ecu installed in my car.
im running the 4 coil ignitor.

so i dont have my tach working. So ive looked at the one that arron put up, but thats for a ems 4424???? im assuming?

but by looking at a wiring diagram for this ecu, (8860... plug "B" should be the same as plug "b" on the 6860)


http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj76/wruckie/1-1.jpg


would i use "a34" yellow/red wire? in comparison to the blue/grey wire on the 4424 ecu?

[rakkasan]

Another Stinger thread made me think of some other questions:

Exactly what stock 1JZ sensors are used?
Exactly what stock 1JZ sensors are NOT used?


What I'm trying to do is gather info so I can thin out the stock harness....

[Panchira!]

from what i got from aaron when i talked to him today. was you keep the folowing:

igniter
#2 cam sensor (towards flywheel)
crank sensor
coolant temp (on water neck)
injectors
air temp sensor
TPS

your options are also:

aux outputs x4
O2 sensor

[rakkasan]

from what i got from aaron when i talked to him today. was you keep the folowing:

igniter
#2 cam sensor (towards flywheel)
crank sensor
coolant temp (on water neck)
injectors
air temp sensor
TPS

your options are also:

aux outputs x4
O2 sensor

If the above is correct, there is a few that can be trimmed out of the stock harness. That's good news

[Zerocool]

Does anyone know the correct fuel trim % and ignition trim as well as fire seq for the 4484 Stinger on a 1JZ?

Trying to get the anti-lag setup in drag mode, but i cant for the life of me get the thing to build any respectable amount of boost.. Not sure what i'm supposed to set anything to.

Ive got the Aux 1 configured for disable anti-lag, and it wired into my clutch switch, but like i said im not sure of the correct settings..http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/8940/antilaggp8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/antilaggp8.jpg/1/w1680.png (http://g.imageshack.us/img299/antilaggp8.jpg/1/)

[suprahero]

If you figure this out of if someone helps you, this would be great. I'm going to Texas and this would definately help me at the track. Good luck with this and hopefully somoene will chime in soon.

[Zerocool]

I set the anti lag to drag mode then set the following settings:
Turn On Above: 4500RPM
Turn On Above TPS: 5%
Turn off Above KPA: 200KPa
Ignition Miss Fire Seq: 2
fuel trim % to 101.60%
Ignition trim % to -102.40%

yet i cant get the damned thing to build more than .8PSI of boost.. I even tried flipping the fuel trim % and ign trim % to complete opposites and it didnt even work then.

[suprahero]

Be careful with it until someone comes in and helps you out. I'd hate to see you mess something up. Good luck.

[gravesdu_99]

I'll proaly try working with it when I get back home, I have to wait until it's really warm before I drive and then if it's under a load like headlights on or Hydro fan kicks on it wants to go dead like at a red light or just in neutral sitting still.

Does anybody else have a probably like this. My car doesn't try to die, but watching the a/f ratio I can see it change a decent amount. Just wounding if it's normal or what is normally done to fix this problem.

[apexi287]

I have a question on the injector impedance, does it matter what you run since the standalone has the option for either high or low, or will a resistor still need to be used. I have 12.2ohm high impedance injectors from DM the top mount ones.

Just wondering if I'll be able to drop these in with no issue.

[gravesdu_99]

I have a question on the injector impedance, does it matter what you run since the standalone has the option for either high or low, or will a resistor still need to be used. I have 12.2ohm high impedance injectors from DM the top mount ones.

Just wondering if I'll be able to drop these in with no issue.


It all depends on your application. I see that aaron has some that drop into a 7mgte fuel rail if thats what you using then yes. If not then you will need to buy the rail from him also, which wouldn't be a bad thing to do anyways.

For the impedance you can use an ohm meter and get a diagram from the stinger help manual. Test the impedance going into the stinger and then you will know for sure. Or with the 1jz the injectors are wired in paralle so you would set it for half of the injector impedance.

[apexi287]

It all depends on your application. I see that aaron has some that drop into a 7mgte fuel rail if thats what you using then yes. If not then you will need to buy the rail from him also, which wouldn't be a bad thing to do anyways.

For the impedance you can use an ohm meter and get a diagram from the stinger help manual. Test the impedance going into the stinger and then you will know for sure. Or with the 1jz the injectors are wired in paralle so you would set it for half of the injector impedance.

Right its for a 1J with top feed injectors with the correct rail, that is the rail that i do have. The impedance was already checked and they all read 12.2 ohms, so when I wire the new injectors in your telling me I will then set the injector ohms to 6 instead of 10-16? There is no 6ohm selection though only 4.5?

[jmcboost]

Just curious if anyone knows some technical info on how the 7MGTE CPS and the stinger communicate? For example :

1. What does each wire going from the CPS to the Stinger do?

2. How does this translate into how the Stinger tells the ignitor when to fire the coils.

3. How does this tell the Stinger when to fire the injectors?

My issue right now is that I have a 2JZGE-T with 7M electronics and I am getting spark but I'm not getting an injector pulse.


EDIT!!!! It's running now! I just needed to swap around the coil pack harness to get them firing in the right order.

[gravesdu_99]

Right its for a 1J with top feed injectors with the correct rail, that is the rail that i do have. The impedance was already checked and they all read 12.2 ohms, so when I wire the new injectors in your telling me I will then set the injector ohms to 6 instead of 10-16? There is no 6ohm selection though only 4.5?

Yes I would go with 4.5 ohms. If you havn't wired them in yet just cut the old injector clips off and wire in the new ones the same way. Then with your ohm meter got to the stinger ecu and measure the impedance at the end of the wiring harness that plugs into the stinger. This will give you what the ecu is reading for sure.

[apexi287]

Yes I would go with 4.5 ohms. If you havn't wired them in yet just cut the old injector clips off and wire in the new ones the same way. Then with your ohm meter got to the stinger ecu and measure the impedance at the end of the wiring harness that plugs into the stinger. This will give you what the ecu is reading for sure.

Ok cool i guess that's the main part i was unsure of is what the stinger would see, because after splicing them in i didn't know if stinger would see 12.2 or close to half, but after looking at the diagrams it makes more sense, thanks.

[Viggs]

Which way do I wire up a 1jz igniter? Do I tie the coils together for wasted spark before or after the igniter?
Before:
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s74/Iceman1151/igniter1.jpg

After:
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s74/Iceman1151/igniter2.jpg

[10secdream]

To set up the stinger for wasted spark you have to do it going from the ECU output to the ignitor. Leave the wiring from the ignitor to the coils as it is.

[SHIZNT]

Bumping up an old thread!

I recently purchased a MA70 Supra (7M-GTE) running an EMS Stinger 4424 v2 off a fellow member of the forums.. I sent the car off to be tuned but myself and the tuner have been left stumped...

Before I purchased the car the injectors we're upgraded from 440cc injectors to 750cc injectors and fuel pump changed to a Bosch 044...

The tuner trimmed a bit of fuel off the map to get it running better but car is idling at 2500rpm and spluttering under load...

From what I've read I need to screw the idle control screw all the way out and adjust the fuel & timing until the car idles correctly. Also we are having issues with no TPS signal in the Software interface.. Could this be an issue with incorrect software version, can you use the stock TPS with the 4424? or has my TPS seen better days?..

Anyone who has experience with EMS Stingers, 7M-GTE's and can shed some light on my issues.. Your help would be greatly appreciated!

[10secdream]

I cant really give you an exact answer relating to the 7m but I can speak from a 1JZ perspective. The TPS needs to be properly calibrated so make sure that is in order. Other than that just make sure the wires are connected properly and it should work just fine.

All I did for the idle was adjust the idle screw to the desired RPM and then adjusted the fuel on the map. From there on I did light load/cruising and tuned WOT.

If you have more questions just PM me.

[hottscennessey]

Bumping up an old thread!

I recently purchased a MA70 Supra (7M-GTE) running an EMS Stinger 4424 v2 off a fellow member of the forums.. I sent the car off to be tuned but myself and the tuner have been left stumped...

Before I purchased the car the injectors we're upgraded from 440cc injectors to 750cc injectors and fuel pump changed to a Bosch 044...

The tuner trimmed a bit of fuel off the map to get it running better but car is idling at 2500rpm and spluttering under load...

From what I've read I need to screw the idle control screw all the way out and adjust the fuel & timing until the car idles correctly. Also we are having issues with no TPS signal in the Software interface.. Could this be an issue with incorrect software version, can you use the stock TPS with the 4424? or has my TPS seen better days?..

Anyone who has experience with EMS Stingers, 7M-GTE's and can shed some light on my issues.. Your help would be greatly appreciated!

1) plug your IACV hose. Sounds like it's sucking in air from the IACV, which it will since it's not wired up. (software is not compaitible with stepper motor IACV).

2) Do as 10secdream said, make sure your TPS is calibrated. If it's not, get a new tuner. This is BASIC, ANY tuner who knows anything would do that before anything else
a) yes the stock TPS IS compatible.
b) Check that the TPS has a ground
c) if the TPS has a ground, check continuity of other (2) wires to ECU with a multimeter.

FYI the TPS is not needed, therefore unless your tuners got it set up funny, it's not causing the spudder.

I'm 90% sure, your problem is with the tuner.

[nosechunks]

Anyone play with the auxiliary inputs yet? Im having trouble with the translation table.

[10secdream]

What input are you trying to set up?

[Zerocool]

Im still trying to setup my 2step/anti lag...

[10secdream]

What are you trying to figure out about it? One thing I really don't like about it is that you can easily over-rev the engine.

[suprahero]

You can't over rev a 1jz........... they just keep on revving........JK

I"m going to be trying to get mine set up once I get my car painted and everything put back together. I will need some help on this as well Mr. Ten seconds. Dont' go anywhere. Stay right here in this thread until I get back to you............:biglaugh:

[10secdream]

Don't worry I will be right here. Now I am not trying to say the Stinger is a bad ems but lets face it the AEM, Haltec, Motec, Vipec ect are much better suited for this application. If I did drag race all the time I would have switched ECU's but it does everything I need at the moment and its easy to use. I have played with the antilag a lot and I could never get it just right. For instance I could get it to build 10 psi but as soon as I let off the rpms would shoot to 7k and it made me very uneasy. I would not recommend with just playing with settings because you can EASILY overrev your motor.

Plus it would be nice if it was speed activated then it would disable automaticially and not with a clutch or handheld switch. I have since just used 2 step for ease of convience. Yes it is not as good as anti-lag but a long short but I feel more comfortable with it.

Someone chime in if they found a way to get the Stinger to work antilag without too many headaches.

[suprahero]

Can you go into more detail about your two step........and it does my heart good knowing you will always be here for me...........:love:

[10secdream]

2 step is just the second rpm limit. For instance I set it to 5000rpm and when activated I put the pedal to the floor and it keeps it at 5000rpm. Once it deactivates then you have your max rpm.

On a side note, I thought u were going AEM?

[suprahero]

I want too but I don't have the monies yet. I may do it in a few months though.........I'm not sure. My car is running pretty good right now, so I don't have many reasons too. The main reason being that I want knock control or at least a way to monitor it. Why can't the Stinger guys come up with a way to monitor knock?

[10secdream]

Why don't you just build your own knock monitor? There are tons of DIY threads on the internet that show you how to make such a device. From my standpoint knock control would be nice to have with the ecu but you really need a tuner who knows what he is doing. I would hate for the knock sensors to be picking up engine noise and reducing my timing. With that said, I just get my car hooked up at the dyno with a knock moniter. That way I tune it on the dyno and moniter knock. Then the trick is to keep the car somewhat conservative and hope for the best. Modified cars is risky business and with pump gas you never know if you are going to get a bad batch or inconsistencies.

On a side note, I plan on going AEM Gen 2 or Vipec if I go 1.5jz and bigger turbo.

[quake]

just read your plugs, tune on the dyno, run a bit more conservative timing than the dyno numbers, above all run the proper octane for the boost/driveing. (not a problem for you meth guys lol)

[nosechunks]

What input are you trying to set up?

Well im trying to hook up the Zeitronix to an analog input and create a translation table. I keep getting a "cannot Modify A Closed Data Set" error when trying to make one. If i continue to input values they get input, but not correctly, they dont correlate with the graph and the input signal does not follow set parameters.

I have been trying to contact EMS but it seems every time i call the person i need to speak to about the issue, is busy, and doesn't call back.

The input works, when i data log the raw input value seems to be correct, but i cant make a translation table so instead of looking at A/F Numbers, im looking at a 0-1024 scale of the 0-5 volt signal.

Frustrating but its a small issue, likely with the software.

Anyone else able to make translation tables?