anti-seize

[eric783]

do you guys recommend putting anti-seize on your head bolt? just to be safe?????

[jetjock]

No. Besides, if all you're using is one you have bigger things to worry about...

[supramacist]

Graphite molly dude.

[AJ'S 88NA]

No. Besides, if all you're using is one you have bigger things to worry about...

:biglaugh:

[eric783]

No. Besides, if all you're using is one you have bigger things to worry about...

my bad, i mean headbolt'S. well i am used to anti-seizing everything high temp, especially in gas turbine applications. don't want that shet to weld itself at extreme temperatures....that would be FUBAR!!!!!! thanks everyone for their inputs.

[IJ.]

Graphite molly dude.

Brand name or part number for this product?

[supramacist]

Well the last tube I bought was from O'rielly's.
It was the only brand they had.
It was a black tube with red and white letters, it said graphite molly.

It's long gone or I would have added that information.

He can go to any parts store and get molly. But I bet you're about to tell me that there's a better brand out there or a specific one to locate???

[Finnon]

i was always told just to use normal motor oil on headbolts etc when doing an engine build.

[cuel]

There's a couple of points that should be covered.
First, and most important: make sure the bolt holes in the block are clean. No trash, water, oil, or anything else down in the bottom of the holes. Run a tap down them to clean the threads, then blow them out again. If there is anything down in those holes, it'll hold the bolt up a tiny bit, and throw off your torque specs.
Second: you want to put a thin coating of oil on the bolts, just to make them screw down easily. Usually, I dip them in oil(10w30), then wipe them with a rag. You don't want the threads full of oil, with it dripping off the end. Just a nice, thin layer for lubrication.

[IJ.]

Well the last tube I bought was from O'rielly's.
It was the only brand they had.
It was a black tube with red and white letters, it said graphite molly.

It's long gone or I would have added that information.

He can go to any parts store and get molly. But I bet you're about to tell me that there's a better brand out there or a specific one to locate???

I not going to "tell" you anything it's just a good idea if you're going to recommend a product to use to give details.

[supramacist]

Dually noted. Not a problem.

[jdub]

There's a couple of points that should be covered.
First, and most important: make sure the bolt holes in the block are clean. No trash, water, oil, or anything else down in the bottom of the holes. Run a tap down them to clean the threads, then blow them out again. If there is anything down in those holes, it'll hold the bolt up a tiny bit, and throw off your torque specs.
Second: you want to put a thin coating of oil on the bolts, just to make them screw down easily. Usually, I dip them in oil(10w30), then wipe them with a rag. You don't want the threads full of oil, with it dripping off the end. Just a nice, thin layer for lubrication.

You can use moly or motor oil for lube...ARP recomends moly and sells it specifically for use on their hardware. One thing to add, ARP torque spec's are different for the lube used...oil specs are higher. The reason is moly cuts friction down significantly, allowing a lower spec.

The TRSM tells us to use oil on the stock head bolts...there is no moly spec:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EM&P=55

To keep consistant torque values (even when going to 70-75 ft/lbs), I would use oil on the stock bolts.

[Doward]

I've got a bottle of ARP assembly lube (moly) that I use for everything.

About to tighten the head nuts now to 82 lbs/ft, using moly.

They were 103 lbs/ft, using 30wt oil.