Stinger help

[Bigzavs]

hey guys i got my harness from aaron today and i went to go bring the ecu online and load the file into it, when i found out i had the wrong style serial connector on my laptop, so i went and got a serial to USB adapter. loaded the drivers for that, and connected it all, but i cannot bring the ecu online, it just says com port not found. any of the stinger guys have any ideas on what i can do?

[hottscennessey]

first things first, make sure your stinger is getting a good 12v power/ground.

2nd.
if running windows xp.. right click on "my computer", click on properties. Click on the harware tab. Click on device manager. From there find the "ports" icon..or your usb adapter may be under the it may be under the USB devices. Once you find the adapter you should be able to set it to what port you want it to use.

3rd.
In the stinger software, click on "Application settings">"paramaters">"Com port". Then set the com port, as the same port you set your usb adapter to under device manager.

[Bigzavs]

is there anything else i need to do harness wise for the power/ground?

the harness is the PnP from BigAaron

[hottscennessey]

I wouldn't think so, I'd just unplug the harness from the stinger, grab a voltmeter, touch the prongs to the + & - to see if you're getting power.

[Bigzavs]

well i did the device manager thing, and its telling me the location for that usb adapter is location 0 and when i went into the stinger software the lowest one it goes to is 1

[suprahero]

Did you run the software that comes with the adapter? If you dont' run that software, it won't read the usb adapter. Ask me how I know? I didn't even know my adapter came with a cd until someone told me. It was hidden in the package behind the lettering. Good luck.

[Bigzavs]

ya i installed it, didnt think that it would need it for a lil adapter, but its on there, im not computer savvy if yall cant tell

[suprahero]

Is your key on? I have to ask, just to make sure, and I dont' mean anything negative by it.

A green light in the lower right hand corner should come on meaning it's reading from the ecu or at least that it's connected.

[Bigzavs]

ya the key is turned 2 clicks and everything that normally has power is on. and all ive got in that corner right now is a black box and to the left of that is NO COM-PORT FOUND (<----literally) but its not giving me a choice of the location that the adapter is saying its on

i wish i knew more about how to make computers work


BTW guys thanks b4 hand for all the help

[suprahero]

My laptop has four ports. Have you tried all of the ports and restarted it? I had the same problem at the dyno one day for an hour and a half and we ended up having to go get another usb adapter because the one I had was for a macintosh or something like that and wouldn't work. It hooked up the same, but it wouldn't read from my laptop. Sorry I'm not much help, but I'm a computer idiot as well.

[Bigzavs]

well i loaded the software up on my spare laptop, and it still gave me the same location for every-time

tomorrow im just gonna get the right serial cable after work.

im just hoping im not having the same prob that i was a couple months ago with power to the ecu

[suprahero]

Good luck Ben.

[Bigzavs]

Good luck Ben.

im gonna need it, i think my car just hates me

u gonna go to houston this year?

[suprahero]

Hell Yeah!!!!!!!!

A bunch of us southern dudes and one damn yankee are riding out together.

[Bigzavs]

wish i coulda gone down there to meet yall, but i got too much goin on at work that week, and then im gonna go to chicago or socal for that last weekend

Update: dunno how, but ive finally got the green light for the ecu, and now im getting one of two messages when i try to bring the ecu online


WRONG ECU

or

OFF LINE

where do i go from here guys?

[suprahero]

I messed with mine a few times today and it seems to be temperamental.

All I can tell you is to make sure it's plugged in all the way into the stinger. Then make sure the connectors to the adapter are as good as they can be. Mine works only in port number two which is on the left side of my laptop and the second one from me towards the back. I turn my car on first and then I click the stinger icon and it comes on and I go to ecu and click read from ecu and it reads it. The only problem I have is trying to close out my windows, my laptop responds with.........This devide doesnt' recognize that command.

Try that and see if it helps. Good luck.

[Bigzavs]

tried all the different usb ports, but i still am getting the same wrong ecu and offline thing


is it possible theres no power to the ecu?

[suprahero]

If you have everything plugged in right with the stinger then you should have power fromt he ecu.

[hottscennessey]

why don't you check to make sure it's getting power via voltmeter/multimeter?

[Bigzavs]

why don't you check to make sure it's getting power via voltmeter/multimeter?

gotta get one of those, or see if we have one at work

[Bigzavs]

JW guys, could i test to see about the power to the ecu with a test light? cuz i do have one of those available in the garage

and off hand do yall know which of the 24 pins are the ones to test? or do i need to go back and check on the actual engine harness?

[hottscennessey]

test light will work, just connect to power and ground while battery is connected. Light should come on.

http://www.enginemanagement.com.au/downloads/4424.pdf

PG 15

pins 9 or 21 (ground)
pins 10 (+12v)

disconnect the stinger from the harness and test the stinger harness for power with the test light.

[Bigzavs]

gracias sir

[Bigzavs]

well, im getting no power into the stinger, checked all the way up to the c1 connector and theres nothing at all. you guys have any ideas on it?

im tempted to swap out all the wiring on the front end of my car, ive been meaning to anyways, but never got around to it, i had this problem a few months ago, and a friend of mine jiggled something somewhere and it got power back again.


any ideas b4 i start to take the car down would def be appreciated

[Bigzavs]

ok guys, i ended up having to bypass the main relay, but i now have power down to the connector for the stinger, but i still cannot connect to the ecu. i turned my laptop off twice and restarted the software a few times to see if that would fix it, but nothing


when i turn on the software, it runs through a bunch of numbers near "feature" but never connects, still gets the wrong ecu/offline message

[rakkasan]

well i did the device manager thing, and its telling me the location for that usb adapter is location 0 and when i went into the stinger software the lowest one it goes to is 1

0 is typically the LTP (36 pin/printer) port. Do you have only one USB port? If so, plug the cord into another one & check see which port it is thru the device manager; set the COM port setting in Stinger accordingly, turn the key car on & you should get prompted "ECU found, do you want to connect?"

[Bigzavs]

ok, finally got it to read, and i loaded up the map you gave me mark.

well, first time i cranked it, it def tried to start up, but after that, nothing, it just cranks and cranks not even sounding like its trying to fire up. any ideas on that?

[rakkasan]

First, go into your timing table & create a new column; assign the column value 400 rpm & set all of it's cells to 5 degrees. Next, add some start up fuel (I believe mine is set around 65%), and then find the cell in the fuel table that it's operating, and keep bumping up the fuel until it idles the highest.

The file I sent you was starving the motor of fuel and the timing is a little too agressive. I'll send you a copy of it when I can, but unfortunately I can't until Saturday....

[IJ.]

Usually when you use a USB/Comm adaptor Windows puts it on Comm4 change the Stinger software to look there and see if it works.

[Bigzavs]

First, go into your timing table & create a new column; assign the column value 400 rpm & set all of it's cells to 5 degrees. Next, add some start up fuel (I believe mine is set around 65%), and then find the cell in the fuel table that it's operating, and keep bumping up the fuel until it idles the highest.

The file I sent you was starving the motor of fuel and the timing is a little too agressive. I'll send you a copy of it when I can, but unfortunately I can't until Saturday....

is that the ignition map? i tried setting it to 5 and saving it, but it reverts back to 4 even if i save the file. also i think i might not be getting fuel now, i cant hear the pump going while i crank it, and i cant hear fuel flowing at the rail. so yay, more work, but thanks a bunch for the help mark


Usually when you use a USB/Comm adaptor Windows puts it on Comm4 change the Stinger software to look there and see if it works.

it was 4, i thought i had set it to that, but i had it on 3 :3d_frown: 1 dumb point for me

[IJ.]

So you can now com into the ECU? ;)

[Bigzavs]

yup, when i bring up the software it does the "read from ecu" thing mark was talking about

[IJ.]

Whoo hoo :)

[Bigzavs]

ok guys, i pulled the first two coilpacks and checked and im getting spark to them, but the car still does not fire. my fuel pump is not coming on at all. i had the bosch relay wired up like aaron had in the stinger thread, but that didnt work i guess. i tried the 12v mod that i used to have on the car, still nothing. i cant hear fuel in the rail or the pump working. how do i wire the pump to a switch? thats the only thing i can think of to fix it, what do you guys think?

[jmcboost]

You probably already did this, but I would first check the 12v wire that feeds the fuel pump and make sure you are getting voltage when the key is on. If you are, then you know it is wired in right and it could be your pump. Hope this helps.

[suprahero]

Any luck Ben?

[Bigzavs]

You probably already did this, but I would first check the 12v wire that feeds the fuel pump and make sure you are getting voltage when the key is on. If you are, then you know it is wired in right and it could be your pump. Hope this helps.

im probably going to check that tomorrow, it started snowing here in DFW tonight (i know WTF?) so i called it quits for the night


Any luck Ben?

the car actually cranked saturday and started for a second, but since i have no fuel pump right now, it died rather quickly

just need to get the pump working, cuz i checked tonight and i have spark but it wont start. which should equal no fuel in the motor

[suprahero]

I'm sure I've read this but I can't remember. Are you positive your fuel pump relay is hooked up under the hood and that you have the relay wired in for the stinger? Just asking.

[Bigzavs]

well ive got the bosch one under the hood in place of the stock relay, i was unaware if i needed another one

[suprahero]

No, I was talking about the Bosch relay.

[Bigzavs]

ok i got it running today, ended up having to take the bosch off (probably did it wrong) and do the 12v mod, which i had on the wrong pins last night. i came home at lunch today and switched the pins to the right ones, and it started up after a couple cranks.

idles around 900-950 (laptop wasnt on at the time)

revs perfectly, no bogging even tho motor was cold

but it is RICH AS HELL, enough to were ive got smoke coming out the exhaust and a lil bit of raw fuel out of the muffler as well. it was pegging out my AEM at 10.0 the entire time. i had to cut it off due to not being able to breathe. its also missing (im guessing due to the richness), but it sounds cool as hell. guess this week im gonna start doing some tuning on it.

http://s67.photobucket.com/albums/h301/bigzavs/?action=view&current=0304081254-00.flv
(you can see the smoke out of the exhaust pretty easy)

[suprahero]

What is your fuel pressure set at? I lowered my fuel pressure down some and then adjusted everything from there. What injectors are you running?

[Bigzavs]

fuel pressure is currently stock, im on the stock FPR currently, im gonna order a AFPR from aaron this week.

what should i set the fuel pressure to when i get that?

and im running USDM 550s

[rakkasan]

fuel pressure is currently stock, im on the stock FPR currently, im gonna order a AFPR from aaron this week.

what should i set the fuel pressure to when i get that?

and im running USDM 550s


I run 38ish PSI.

Did you load up the file that I had sent you? My car runs rich, but not that rich....

[Bigzavs]

I run 38ish PSI.

Did you load up the file that I had sent you? My car runs rich, but not that rich....

ya, thats the same file you sent

i literally was choking in the garage cuz of the fuel and smoke from the car

[rakkasan]

ya, thats the same file you sent

i literally was choking in the garage cuz of the fuel and smoke from the car

If you're running 550's, try trimming your fuel table. Try -18% and see what happens.....

[driftking786]

any of u guys have a nice startup? without cranking for 5min?:biglaugh:

[rakkasan]

any of u guys have a nice startup? without cranking for 5min?:biglaugh:

Create a new column in your timing map for 400rpm & set your timing at 6 degrees. It helped me a ton

[Bigzavs]

i cut 18% out like you said mark, but its still runnin rich, and my wideband is still sittin at 10:1

1. i think my plugs are just about screwed, im gonna get some new ones tomorrow

2. my wideband is a. screwed, or b. not reading for some reason.

also, i cut fuel enough that it was doing something like a 2-step

im gonna work on it enough till it runs good, then hand it over for dyno tuning

[Bigzavs]

heres the cutting im talkin about
http://s67.photobucket.com/albums/h301/bigzavs/?action=view&current=08030401.flv

[Bigzavs]

and heres it runnin pretty smooth, but theres still enough unburnt fuel to make me smell like gas from just standing around it while running, im revving up to about 3.5K-4K ish area
http://s67.photobucket.com/albums/h301/bigzavs/?action=view&current=08030402.flv

[bigaaron]

Take away more fuel maybe 5% at a time until it idles at around 14:1. It's bogging because it's so rich. Do you have any friends that have tuned a 3d fuel map before, could they stop by and help? With a wibeband in the car I could tune it from running like that to idling perfect and cruising around like it was stock in about 10 minutes. It's better if you can get some pointers from someone in person, then it all makes a lot more sense. Don't be scared to lean it out, it's not going to hurt anything if the engine is not under load. When it's too lean you'll hear it and it will studder and not want to rev, when it's too rich you'll smell it and it will bog. Hold the space bar down while on the fuel map and you will see what square the engine is running at idle, then also highlight the squares around it and hit the page down button until it's idling more where it should. Once you get to the off-idle throttle response you have to not pay so much attention to the wideband and give the engine what it wants. That part takes a little more experience to get it right.

[Bigzavs]

i do know some guys in DFW that know about tuning (moreso on the AEM tho) but none are really "local" bout 15-25 miles away. but im sure i can get some pointers tomorrow at our beer night.

i was doing what you said, i used the -4.8% each time, but my wideband never moved. stayed at 10:1 the entire time, i dunno if its just not reading or what.

i do know i need to change the plugs tho

[bigaaron]

Don't worry too much about the wideband, did the engine sound better and not smell so rich? Try taking away 30% and see if it goes lean and wants to stall.
Then go up until it idles ok. What impedance are your injectors? They are wired in parallel and it is important to have the impedance set correctly in the settings on the Stinger.

[Bigzavs]

Don't worry too much about the wideband, did the engine sound better and not smell so rich? Try taking away 30% and see if it goes lean and wants to stall.
Then go up until it idles ok. What impedance are your injectors? They are wired in parallel and it is important to have the impedance set correctly in the settings on the Stinger.

cool, ill have to do that tomorrow, im still lightheaded from workin on it earlier

they are the USDM 2JZ 550cc's, are they low impedance? and how do i check it on the stinger?

[bigaaron]

You need to measure the impedance of the injectors with an ohm meter. Stock 1jz injectors are high impedance, you should probably have the resistor wired in for low impedance. You need to address that before even starting it again, it's important because it could damage the injector drivers if you have it set wrong.

[Bigzavs]

i have the resistor wire into the harness for the injectors, and the file im using came from mark, so i was guessing it was already set up for the 550s

were in the stinger software do i make sure on the injector impedance setting?

[Bigzavs]

also aaron, is it possible to use the AEM UEGO to datalog on the stinger?

[bigaaron]

It's in the ECU settings, under "injector ohms".

You may want to spend some time reading the manual that comes with the software. :icon_razz
That's just a suggestion though :)

Here's a link to it:
Stinger Manual pdf (http://www.driftmotion.com/Stinger_Manual.pdf)

[Bigzavs]

Instructions? i mean come on who ever reads those? always makes things more interesting to wing it.

jk..ill go through that tonight tho when i get off work

i know from glancing through it tho earlier that the LC1 will work with it, but can the UEGO be used to datalog?

[rakkasan]

im using came from mark, so i was guessing it was already set up for the 550s

My injectors flowed 450cc, that's why I mentioned dropping your table 18% :icon_bigg

[Bigzavs]

is it normal for it to take a long time to start up? i cranked on it for a few minutes after i changed the plugs. and i got one sputter out of it b4 stopping cuz of my battery being weak.

from what you said earlier mark, would i just take the 400 column already set in that file from you and change it from 4 to 6?

[suprahero]

sounds like you're making a little headway. I figured out how to tune mine while driving it. I see where it needs to be adjusted and then pull off and change it. I did most of my tuning while my brother drove me around and I tuned. Good luck.

[Bigzavs]

sounds like you're making a little headway. I figured out how to tune mine while driving it. I see where it needs to be adjusted and then pull off and change it. I did most of my tuning while my brother drove me around and I tuned. Good luck.

ya, hopefully by this weekend ill have it running well enough to drive around, and then Gotturbos? and I are gonna take it out and do some tuning on it

[rakkasan]

is it normal for it to take a long time to start up? i cranked on it for a few minutes after i changed the plugs. and i got one sputter out of it b4 stopping cuz of my battery being weak.

from what you said earlier mark, would i just take the 400 column already set in that file from you and change it from 4 to 6?

It's taking a long time to crank because it's too rich. Once you get it leaned out it will be easier. Leave the 400 column as is, I had already made that change before I saved and sent it to you.

[Bigzavs]

It's taking a long time to crank because it's too rich. Once you get it leaned out it will be easier. Leave the 400 column as is, I had already made that change before I saved and sent it to you.

well after some more cranking and just some firing every once in a while, i pulled the plugs, and they just reaked of fuel, had my sis help me turn the motor over while i was under the hood with the plugs out, and the smell of gas was horrible (fuel pump was not on, so it wasnt more fuel going in, just the fuel already in there) so im leavin the motor open to dry out and lettin the plugs dry out as well


also, in PM aaron told me that if i had the resistor pack wired in for the injectors, that it should be set at 10-16ohms for the injector impedence. well i went in and checked and the setting was 4.5 ohms? so i changed that to what aaron said, and it did try to start more, but i was still flooded enough that it wouldnt start.

also, mark, when i looked at that 400 column, its all set at 4 degrees for timing, does that need to stay at 4, or should it be at 6?

[Bigzavs]

ok, i left it open to dry out for a few hours, and i put in a brand new set of plugs, with the fuel pump off, and the 1&2 coil packs off with plugs in them, i checked and im def getting spark, but once connecting all of it back together and ready to go, it still does not fire up, i get a hiccup every once in a while, but it will not fire up

and i have pulled well over 20% of the fuel, in small increments every time, 3-4 percent per time, just to make sure im not flooding out, but still nothing

im seriously ready to take it to a shop or part it out

[Bigzavs]

hey mark, a friend of mine brought up the point that since im on the stock FPR that might be why my car isnt running well at all (and not starting)

for the time being till i get my kit from aaron, i put the stock injectors on the car, and loaded the base map, car started right up, first crank. and i got it to idle at 14.7 (idles at 1100-1200) just need to work on the whole driving thing


and sorry about the rant above, just frustrated

[suprahero]

at least you know everything is working properly and you just have to lean it out some more to get it to crank with the 550's.

[Bigzavs]

i probably will need to drop the fuel pressure down as well, cuz with the 550s im literally getting nothing, with the stock fuel and map, it starts up even without any leaning out