what oil are you guys running in ur 1jz?

[#1StunnaVic]

hey just curious as to what oil u guys are using in ur 1jz. right now im just runnin some regular napa oil. 5W30. im just runnin it for the first few hundred miles to clean out the motor. i was told that the 5W30 is way to thin for the 1j and its just gonna spin the bearings, but i figured that since it was colder out i'd run a thinner oil? any suggestions as to what kind of oil to run in our 1jz? for summer and winter months???

[tissimo]

5w30 is fine.. I recommend Pennzoil Platinum 5w30. Its cheap and very good stuff. Run it year round!

[supramike7m]

5w30 is fine.. I recommend Pennzoil Platinum 5w30. Its cheap and very good stuff. Run it year round!

yup, thats what i use now. going to go with the amsoil 0w-30 on the next change.

[JASONA70]

mobil 1 5-30

[mk3 808]

shell oil is the best

[viperkillertt]

Mobil 1 20W50. I have been using it for 4 years. I am going to switch to 10w30 on my next change. Also, i think this is a total repost. I remember reading a very long post about this exact thing a while back.

[#1StunnaVic]

Mobil 1 20W50. I have been using it for 4 years. I am going to switch to 10w30 on my next change. Also, i think this is a total repost. I remember reading a very long post about this exact thing a while back.

i searched butdidnt see anything

[str8_6]

yeah, there's a HUGE talk about this.

i use 5w30 redline. i use redline everything.

[jdub]

i searched butdidnt see anything

Gee, that's odd...there's a whole section on SM concerning this subject ;)

http://www.supramania.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=108
Read the link in my sig too.



shell oil is the best

BZZZZZ...Not even close:

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38768

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48993



5w30 is fine.. I recommend Pennzoil Platinum 5w30. Its cheap and very good stuff. Run it year round!

Yep...I like that oil too. It's not a true syn oil though (Group III base stock), but Pennzoil has refined it to the point there is little difference.



yeah, there's a HUGE talk about this.

i use 5w30 redline. i use redline everything.

Very good oil...Group V ester based. Also very expensive ;)



Mobil 1 20W50. I have been using it for 4 years. I am going to switch to 10w30 on my next change. Also, i think this is a total repost. I remember reading a very long post about this exact thing a while back.

You don't want to use a 20W-50...you are not doing your motor any favors. Switching to a 30W multigrade is a smart move...I'd use a 0W or 5W-30 though.

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41775

The oil filter is just as important...get a good one:

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42763

[250sx]

penzoil 20/50 ftmfw

[jdub]

penzoil 20/50 ftmfw

NOW THAT is an intelligent statement :sarcasm:





(LOL....NOT!!!)

[supraracer49]

Factory Toyota 10w30 semi synthetic. Best stuff ever

[Dylan JZ]

Best two oils for your motor are Redline 5w-30 and Castrol GC 0w-30 hands down. After discussing this extensively with sir JDub, substantial proof is behind this.

The other he recommended was pennzoil platinum 5w-30, use all of these in combo with good filters and your engine will love life and give you many years of fun.


Personally I'll be using the Castrol because its a good middleground in between the the two oils mentioned IMO. I also prefer its thicker nature and its weight over the others.. If the supply of this runs out, then I will be switching to Redline.

[drewgo]

I agree with a 10w30. I'v been doing tons of research and even read, not too long ago, a long write up from a chemist that retired from Shell. His life he spent it developing engine oil for Gas and diesel engine. He explained and debunked theories uses today of the use of oils.
After spending close to an hour of reading his write ups, I understand that the most crucial point in the life of an engine is "cold start ups". At operating temp, most engine wont have much difference in the viscosity or weight of it since it pretty much thins out.
At start up, the lighter the oil the faster it can charge and lube your engine. He also went to explain the difference between synthetic and Non synthetic oils. Regular oil, although it goes to the bottom when the engine cools off, leaves a very thin layer on the walls of the engine, synthetic leave an even thicker wall, reducing the wear at start up even more.

In conclusion, I am going with 10w30 from 20w50.. NUFF said!

[Dylan JZ]

My mechanic is a genius on anything but oil.. hes like, synthetic is bad for a motor that didnt originally run it. Also, run a thicker oil because were in FL (Castrol diesel 20w-50).

Then proceeds to use my friend with an SR as an example, saying that after he went to synthetic 5w-30, he rod knocked the motor.


*I silently shake my head* All of these are common misconceptions with no facts backing them up.

[Dylan JZ]

I agree with a 10w30. I'v been doing tons of research and even read, not too long ago, a long write up from a chemist that retired from Shell. His life he spent it developing engine oil for Gas and diesel engine. He explained and debunked theories uses today of the use of oils.
After spending close to an hour of reading his write ups, I understand that the most crucial point in the life of an engine is "cold start ups". At operating temp, most engine wont have much difference in the viscosity or weight of it since it pretty much thins out.
At start up, the lighter the oil the faster it can charge and lube your engine. He also went to explain the difference between synthetic and Non synthetic oils. Regular oil, although it goes to the bottom when the engine cools off, leaves a very thin layer on the walls of the engine, synthetic leave an even thicker wall, reducing the wear at start up even more.

In conclusion, I am going with 10w30 from 20w50.. NUFF said!

you just said it my friend, but if you understand this concept then why would you do a 10w-30, knowing that a 5w-30 is more effective and even more so a 0w-30 (though more rare) is most effective.

[drewgo]

you just said it my friend, but if you understand this concept then why would you do a 10w-30, knowing that a 5w-30 is more effective and even more so a 0w-30 (though more rare) is most effective.

One step at a time......My valve seal aren't the greatest. If the car idles for a bit. When I rev just a tad a small amount of white smoke come out. Not alot, but I am hesitant to go 5w just yet.

[Dylan JZ]

One step at a time......My valve seal aren't the greatest. If the car idles for a bit. When I rev just a tad a small amount of white smoke come out. Not alot, but I am hesitant to go 5w just yet.

hahaha, understood.. :icon_bigg

[viperkillertt]

You don't want to use a 20W-50...you are not doing your motor any favors. Switching to a 30W multigrade is a smart move...I'd use a 0W or 5W-30 though.

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41775

The oil filter is just as important...get a good one:

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42763
Yup, that is why i am changing on my next oil change. I was told 4 years ago to go with 20w50. I dont know why, but i followed it. I think it was when i was using amsoil. Because it is so expensive, i usually stock up when on sale for like 4 or 5 bucks a qt. So i had quite a lot of it. I am going to be switching 10w30 when i hit 3000 miles. I have 1200 more miles to go.

I use a wix filter.

[bobiseverywhere]

Listen to jdub

[#1StunnaVic]

yea i wanted to ask about amsoil. whats the deal with that? i heard its suppose to be the best oil out there but what makes it so good and if it really is that good where can i find it? my cuzin says it rare so whenever he finds some he buys a few cases. ????? anyone care to shine some light on this?
i know redline is great stuff. i got a teacher up at school that worships redline fluids and keeps on promoting us to use them in our cars. so i understand why they are good (thanks to Mr. Jones!).

[viperkillertt]

yea i wanted to ask about amsoil. whats the deal with that? i heard its suppose to be the best oil out there but what makes it so good and if it really is that good where can i find it? my cuzin says it rare so whenever he finds some he buys a few cases. ????? anyone care to shine some light on this?
i know redline is great stuff. i got a teacher up at school that worships redline fluids and keeps on promoting us to use them in our cars. so i understand why they are good (thanks to Mr. Jones!).

Amsoil is dealer sold. So it is like amway and other pyramid schemes. But they do have a good product. The prices are similar to redline i think. About 8 bucks or more per qt. I just couldn't afford it anymore, so i switched to Mobile 1 about 3 years ago. You can go to their website for more info and also dealer info so you can get some in your area.

[garagefujimoto]

A factory JZA70 has a sticker on the underside of the hood asking for 10W30 oil.

Why would you second guess the guy that made the car?

[supramike7m]

A factory JZA70 has a sticker on the underside of the hood asking for 10W30 oil.

Why would you second guess the guy that made the car?

remember that was almost 20 years ago. oil has advanced alot since then. the car also asks for a sj api rated oil, why would you use and sj when you have an sm rated oil? your better of using a 5w or 0w.

[Big Wang Bandit]

1JZ's don't need oil!

[jetjock]

Factory Toyota 10w30 semi synthetic. Best stuff ever

;)

[Dylan JZ]

A factory JZA70 has a sticker on the underside of the hood asking for 10W30 oil.

Why would you second guess the guy that made the car?

(sigh).. have you ever been into the fluids section of this website?

Just go in there and read everything you can get your hands on and you'll understand why that guys opinion <20 years ago has really no bearing on oils of today.


They are so many light years ahead its ridiculous..

[Supratrbox2]

Castrol syntec blend 10w-40. Been using it since 02 and seems to be fine.

[Shadow]

Mobil 1 10w-30 here.

[BlackMKIII]

Chevron 10w30 dyno oil. I'm switching it to RedLine 5w30 (or Castrol Syntec 0w30, if I can find it) this weekend.

[suprastanger507mgte]

I have used Mobil 1 full synthetic 10-30 in my previous Supras.
I have switched over to Pennzoil Platinum ( synthetic ).

[jizake1jz]

1JZ's don't need oil!

^thats what i've been going with since '02!

but really i think i'm just gonna go redline next change with a wix filter. how often should i change it?

[86_sports_1jz]

mobil 1 0w-30


Listen to jdub

yes he is the oil man

[driftking786]

10-30 royal purple just put it in, is it any good?

[viperkillertt]

10-30 royal purple just put it in, is it any good?

It is great stuff! Similar to redline.

[cbutler]

Amsoil is dealer sold. So it is like amway and other pyramid schemes. But they do have a good product. The prices are similar to redline i think. About 8 bucks or more per qt. I just couldn't afford it anymore, so i switched to Mobile 1 about 3 years ago. You can go to their website for more info and also dealer info so you can get some in your area.

I usually use Amsoil 10-30. There's a number of different varieties that Canadian Tire carries (for the canadians out there)

[jdub]

Keep something in mind when you guys are talking about the various 30W multi-grades. The 1st number (0W, 5W, 10W) ONLY pertains to the cold flow characteristics of the oil...IMO, the lower the viscosity, the better when it come so this number. You want the best possible flow you can get on a cold start...the low viscosities are much better in this arena.

The 2nd number represents the viscosity of the oil when at ops temp (100 deg C)...if the oil is in the range of 9.30-12.49 cst it is a 30W according to SAE grade specs. Do not get the idea a 0W-30 is a thin oil, it can be quite opposite. Castrol European Formula (aka German Castrol) is a case in point...it has a viscosity of 12.10 cst at 100 degs C...that is thick for a 30W multi-grade, especially compared to Mobil 1 oils.

The devil is in the details when it comes to motor oil...you have to read the spec sheet ;)

[jdub]

10-30 royal purple just put it in, is it any good?


For the money, there's better. RP's additive pack is more suited to a race motor w/ frequent changes...that can get expensive, unless you use oil analysis to determine the change interval.

[suprahero]

So technically, their isn't a perfect oil for our cars, since we all live in different places with different temperatures. I run RP 10-30, and it rarely gets below 35 here and when it does, I'm not driving my car. I know you've covered it a hundred times, but what would be a better oil, for the money, than the Royal Purple. Thanks, Jay

[supramike7m]

if you wanted to stick with RP youll be better off using the 5w-30. same viscosity, at ops, but alot better protection when cold. you want to have the cst as close to 10 as possible, for example amsoil 0w-30 has a cold cst of 56.4 the closer to 10 the better on cold start ups. a RP 10w-30 is probably around 70? cst.

[supramike7m]

So technically, their isn't a perfect oil for our cars, since we all live in different places with different temperatures. I run RP 10-30, and it rarely gets below 35 here and when it does, I'm not driving my car. I know you've covered it a hundred times, but what would be a better oil, for the money, than the Royal Purple. Thanks, Jay


a better oil for the money would be pennzoil plattinum, or even amsoil. even if the temp doesnt get below 35F these cst numbers are based on 40 and 100 degrees celcius, 40C is 104F. now if your even starting your car up in say 45F weather(7.2C) the oil cst number is goin to be far far from 10, probably around 250cst. again the closer that nuber is to 10 the better, or the faster you can get it there the better.

[tavarish]

I'm using mobil 1 10w30 in my 1jz SC300.

[thechori]

i'm gonna have to say go with the REAL good stuff: Royal Purple 75w90 Synthetic Oil baby, leave the kids at home.

[Dylan JZ]

The point JDub made that some of you missed was this little fact I tried to get at earlier but failed for several reasons..

Point: go as low as you cant with the start up weight because that provides the best protection on a start up because its thinner and will be able to reach the prominent areas of friction much quicker due to being thinner.

Also, as JDub said.. the Castrol GC (aka. German Castrol) runs more like a 40 weight (say Ie. Mobil oil) once its warm. In close, start up is where you want protection, thats where the most damage occurs.


SupraMike once again another good example of the point being made:

a better oil for the money would be pennzoil plattinum, or even amsoil. even if the temp doesnt get below 35F these cst numbers are based on 40 and 100 degrees celcius, 40C is 104F. now if your even starting your car up in say 45F weather(7.2C) the oil cst number is goin to be far far from 10, probably around 250cst. again the closer that nuber is to 10 the better, or the faster you can get it there the better.

[Dylan JZ]

I'm using mobil 1 10w30 in my 1jz SC300.

Hey Tav, good you could join us over here haha.

[bobiseverywhere]

So technically, their isn't a perfect oil for our cars, since we all live in different places with different temperatures. I run RP 10-30, and it rarely gets below 35 here and when it does, I'm not driving my car. I know you've covered it a hundred times, but what would be a better oil, for the money, than the Royal Purple. Thanks, Jay

Hi Jay,

Isn't Redline the same price as the RP. I would be purchasing the Redline if i could get it for the same price as the RP up here.

[OneJSupra]

I just switched to Red Line 10w30 in my last oil change after using Amsoil 5w40.

JDUB you da man, I think it's a better oil and the 1J loves it. :naughty:

[jdub]

Good comments guys...you're getting the idea :)

The brand of oil is much less important than how it flows cold, followed what viscosity it runs at ops temp. All of the motors (1J, 2J, 7M) you see in a Supra are designed for a 30W viscosity (SAE grade 9.30-12.49 cst). I use GC (after trying several different oils) because it makes the valve train in my 7M run a lot quieter, flows very well cold, and meets the SAE viscosity requirements the motor was designed for. Plus, it's a Grp IV PAO synthetic oil...for the heat a turbo puts out, that will prevent any problems "cooking oil" (coking) in the turbo at shut down. Syn oils also keep the inside of the motor squeaky clean.

Jay - RP is a very good oil, so don't get me wrong...it will meet your needs. But, as previously mentioned, use the 5W version for the cold flow characteristics. When I look at an oil, I also look at what it was made to do...RP is slanted more toward racing. It is a PAO based oil...the additive package is not as robust in terms of wear additives you'll see in oils designed for street vehicles. For the money, Red Line is similarly priced and is a far superior oil...it's Grp V ester based (same stuff used in jet turbine oil)...you can't get much better IMO. Having said that, you start splitting hairs when you are talking PAO and ester oils...both will perform better than mineral oil. Pennzoil Platinum is an exception (it's a Grp III)...Pennzoil has refined (extensive hydrocracking) it to the point where there is little difference to a PAO and the add pack is superb.

When I look at oil, I look at what it's going to cost me as well...here's my opinions on those that are commonly available:

German Castrol - Excellent oil, superb add pack, good price...thicker than average at ops temp. It appears AutoZone will continue to carry this oil.
Red Line - outstanding oil, superb add pack, but expensive...good for those that want the best and don't care about the $$$
Pennzoil Platinum - Excellent oil, superb add pack, good price, but not a Grp IV or V...it is on par with the GC, but not quite as thick at ops temp.
RP - Excellent oil, but expensive...add pack is not as extensive as the above which will shorten the change intervals. That will cost you more over the long run.
Amsoil (all except the XL line) - Excellent oil (PAO based) with a very good add pack, but expensive. You can only get it from an "Amsoil Dealer" in the US...that kind of marketing keeps pricing on the high side.
Mobil 1 - Excellent oil, good add pack, but not a Grp IV or V. Exxon has not been very open about this actually being a Grp III oil to keep pricing up. That's BS IMO (especially with record profits for the company) and I won't buy it...If I were to go with a Grp III oil, Pennzoil Platinum is superior add pack wise and they make it no secret concerning the base oil.

Any of these oils will go 5K easy between changes...the Grp IV and V oils, 8k easy (watch RP though). Just use a good filter, change it at the 4K point, and add some make-up oil.

Pick any of these and you motor will love you ;)
Consider the cold flow (lower viscosity per the spec sheets, regardless of what the 1st number is on the bottle) and how it performs at ops temp pressure wise (you're looking for 10 psi per 1000 rpm). Higher viscosity oils (i.e. 20W-50) is pretty thick even at ops temps...this gives you higher pressures, but is a result of the resistance to flow caused by the high viscosity. Use the grade the motor was designed for ;)

[Ds650rida]

royal purple 10w30

[suprahero]

royal purple 10w30

I'm pretty sure I read two awesome members suggest I use 5w30.

[supramike7m]

hey jay heres a good example of how these numbers can be deceiving.

Royal purple cst 40C cst 100C
5w-30 65.3 10.7
10w-30 70.3 11.0

so the 5w-30 is actually thicker than the 10w-30 at 100C. that way it wont thin out as much when your oil temp gets higher, but it gets you closer to that 10 cst on start up. so obviously 5w-30 is going to give you better protection for all conditions.

[BlackMKIII]

Yeah, so yesterday I changed my oil with RedLine 5w30, but the WIX filter I got wouldn't thread on. So I just used a spare YZZD1 filter I had at the shop. :D

[jdub]

hey jay heres a good example of how these numbers can be deceiving.

Royal purple cst 40C cst 100C
5w-30 65.3 10.7
10w-30 70.3 11.0

so the 5w-30 is actually thicker than the 10w-30 at 100C. that way it wont thin out as much when your oil temp gets higher, but it gets you closer to that 10 cst on start up. so obviously 5w-30 is going to give you better protection for all conditions.


Mike - I think you may have mis-read the spec sheet. RP 5W-30 is a small bit *thinner* than RP 10W-30 (10.6 cst vs 11.0 cst)...not a significant amount though. But you are correct about a lot of other oils...I have seen a 5W-30 that is thicker at ops temp than a 10W-30 of the same brand/series of oil.

Black - the Wix filter is a 51348...it's a 3/4-16 thread.

[suprahero]

I'm going to go to a RedLine site and start ordering it since it cost the same as RoyalPurple. I need to order some tranny and differential fluid anyways. Thanks guys for describing this in idiot terms for me........much love and respect.

[jdub]

Jay - Summit has Red Line 5W-30 for $8.75 a quart ;)

[BlackMKIII]

Black - the Wix filter is a 51348...it's a 3/4-16 thread.

I thought that was the one I got. Damn Carquest...

[suprahero]

I was on line at another place, but I'll check out Summitt. Do I need 75/90 for the rearend? I think it's like 1.4 quarts.
How much does the tranny hold if you know off the top of your head? I want to order it all at one time. Thanks again.

[BlackMKIII]

Tranny holds 3.2 quarts. Rear end about 2.

I use Redline MTL in the tranny and 75w90 out back.

[jdub]

Jay - Use Red Line 75W-90 for the rear end (NOT 75W-90NS)...the former already has the friction modifiers needed for proper LSD operation in the formula.

For the R-154, MT90 is a better choice ;)

[BlackMKIII]

For the R-154, MT90 is a better choice ;)

I'll be damned if I'm draining it again and wasting $30 worth of MTL. I did think it felt a little thin, but it feels better than dyno 75w90, though.

[jdub]

I wouldn't drain it either ;)
Keep running it unless you get shifting problems.

The biggest difference between MTL and MT90 is the MTL is a bit thinner as you alluded to. It's a popular choice (according to Red Line) for BMW, Acura and Honda trannys...MT90 is a better formula for Toyota, Nissan and Mazda.

[BlackMKIII]

I know it cured my sticky first gear and grindy second. :D

[jdub]

Yep! Red Line is excellent gear oil.

You should be fine with the MTL...next change get the MT90 though and you'll really love the shifts. What scares me is when I read guys using RP Synchromax or Max Gear in their tranny...that is NOT good!

[supramike7m]

Mike - I think you may have mis-read the spec sheet. RP 5W-30 is a small bit *thinner* than RP 10W-30 (10.6 cst vs 11.0 cst)...not a significant amount though. But you are correct about a lot of other oils...I have seen a 5W-30 that is thicker at ops temp than a 10W-30 of the same brand/series of oil.

Black - the Wix filter is a 51348...it's a 3/4-16 thread.

maybe i did, but i do know some are that way. just took a quick look at it. either way, there is not much difference at ops

[OneJoeZee]

My car runs pretty good on Aunt Jemima's. Long life, good pressure.

[suprahero]

I love Aunt Jemimah's. Vonda fixed pancakes for breakfast this morning............:yumyum:

The pancakes were good too............:naughty:

[OneJoeZee]

I use Castrol 5W-50 on my pancakes. Accept no substitutes :)

[AGlobalThreat]

Pennzoil Platinum

[CyFi6]

why would you want an oil to be its thinnest on cold startup? Wouldnt you want it to be fairly thick as the mechanical parts havent expanded and havent had time to tighten the clearances?

[jdub]

Oil flow to the bearings is far more important...thinner oil at cold temps flows better.

Read this:
Motor Oil 101 (http://63.240.161.99/motoroil/)
A bit long, but worth the time ;)

[The Reaper]

i got paid for a 9 hr day reading that link awhile ago when we were talking about it jdub. thats a great read on oils

[lilazni3uoy]

napa 10w30 :biglaugh: