CNC Cam Covers with Extras [Archive] - Page 3

arz

07-14-2008, 08:43 PM

Can I buy a two piece center cover?

Im still waiting on that myself. I haven't forgotten about that I just haven't been able to get my machinist motivated about it lately.

Thanks for the patients to those of you that have ordered that. You can still run your car with out it and install the throttle linkage with only the 2 right hand fasteners if you have a left hand drive.

Kristian_Wraae

07-15-2008, 12:42 AM

What I mean is can I order one? Or are all spoken for?

sneakypete

07-15-2008, 02:26 PM

i couldnt find the throttle linkage relocation on the website. is it listed? how much?
-pete

arz

07-16-2008, 11:35 PM

What I mean is can I order one? Or are all spoken for?NO they are not all spoken for, I am still crackin the whip. Honestly such a few people want them I havent pushed that hard, I will chew on his ear, sorry for the delay.

i couldnt find the throttle linkage relocation on the website. is it listed? how much?
-peteSorry I spoke of this product early on, but most went with the FFIM and had their own throttle cable ideas covered. It will happen and I will bend his ear about this also.

Sorry I cant hazzard a guess, but not crazy money, it will be cool, clean and bolt-on though.

Kristian_Wraae

07-17-2008, 06:59 PM

Here's a video of the start of that 3D profile for the gasket on the front of the cam cover.

3D CNC Video (http://arizonaperformance.com/parts_photos/cam_covers/CIMG3803.AVI)

You drill the upset rivets er... (bosses) out of your stock cam covers and you clean them and install them with fasteners in my cam covers. Look very closely where I drilled out the stock cover, it was very easy.

http://arizonaperformance.com/parts_photos/cam_covers/CIMG1745_resize.JPG
Also notice the raised section where I will use a custom port tool to install the AN-10 fitting
http://arizonaperformance.com/parts_photos/cam_covers/CIMG3813_resize.JPG
Heres an image of the new gasket installed, it fits perfect.
http://arizonaperformance.com/parts_photos/cam_covers/CIMG1743_resize.JPG
Here it is on the head, no fasteners installed.
http://arizonaperformance.com/parts_photos/cam_covers/CIMG1737_resize.JPG

All there is left to do is drill and tap for the baffle and the AN-10 port

It will probably be a few weeks before I can get on the other side. I have a few other irons in the fire.

Are the baffles on the 7mgte the same as in the 7mge?

I can get a set of 7mge valve covers for cheap since I don't want to ruine my polished stock 7mgte covers I was wondering if I could use the baffles from the 7mge covers (if there are any....).

arz

07-17-2008, 11:55 PM

I think they are a tad different, let me check.

Kristian_Wraae

07-22-2008, 12:36 PM

I think they are a tad different, let me check.

They are not the same. I have just checked.

Btw. How is your FFIM comming along? :naughty:

arz

07-22-2008, 02:21 PM

They are not the same. I have just checked.Sorry for the delay, but I suspected they were different.

Btw. How is your FFIM comming along? :naughty:That will require quite a bit of work, thats a ways off, but Im sure all parties will be happy with the results. Just like with all of my other items I am taking all aspects into consideration.

Ninja edit:Please post FFIM stuff in this thread, thanks.

That said, Im still glad you mention it here to provide visibility to my intentions.

Kristian_Wraae

07-22-2008, 02:24 PM

Sorry for the delay, but I suspected they were different.
That will require quite a bit of work, thats a ways off, but Im sure all parties will be happy with the results. Just like with all of my other items I am taking all aspects into consideration.

Sounds good. I expect to be at the top of the list :biglaugh:

Btw what is the thread for the PCV fittings? NPT? What size? Also the side port for the oil?

I noticed you got some barbes fitted instead of the AN fittings. Do you have a link or some specs. I think I'll put barbes on at first and switch to AN fittings and braided hoses when the FFIM is ready.

arz

07-22-2008, 02:32 PM

Sounds good. I expect to be at the top of the list :biglaugh:.What about the oil pan list? :naughty:

I am planning on one, but it is a bit further off, hopefully it will be very similar to the Group A one IJ has.

Btw what is the thread for the PCV fittings? NPT? What size? Also the side port for the oil?

I noticed you got some barbes fitted instead of the AN fittings. Do you have a link or some specs. I think I'll put barbes on at first and switch to AN fittings and braided hoses when the FFIM is ready.On the PCV I think thats a metric version of the AN fitting, I will find out which one and have a provision to plumb the PCV port down on to the bottom of my new manifold and get it where it needs to go.

On the AN fittings, I took a -8 fitting and turned it down on a lathe to duplicate the stock size and use the stock plumbing. Same thing on the Crank case ventelation. I will look for the spec if you really need it, but it would be easier to just buy those fittings and do as I have done.

My machinist had expressed he is not excited about doing these, but if you have to have them I will ask (IE: it wont be cheap, probably less than $75 in machining if you guys do all 3 at one at a time.)

If I can get more of my customers to do it at the same time the price will go down. That price is ON TOP OF the cost of the 3 AN fittings.

Kristian_Wraae

07-22-2008, 04:18 PM

What about the oil pan list? :naughty:

There is an oil pan list? :icon_surp

About the barbs - I'll figure it out.

arz

07-22-2008, 05:31 PM

There is an oil pan list? :icon_surp.It dosent exist yet, just teasing a bit. It will though, I will keep all posted.

About the barbs - I'll figure it out.I assume you are talking about the ones on my car.

Btw what is the thread for the PCV fittings? NPT? What size? Also the side port for the oil?

I noticed you got some barbes fitted instead of the AN fittings. Do you have a link or some specs. I think I'll put barbes on at first and switch to AN fittings and braided hoses when the FFIM is ready.OH I see i didnt fully answer this. The threads in the Cam Covers are whats called an "AN Port fitting" they have the same exact thread as what ever AN fitting they correspond to, but they have an O-ring land, designed into them. If you manufactured your own you would be hard pressed to get them to seal properly. That is why I took those AN fittings, that I initially reccommended in the XRP catalog and modified those on a lathe. The ones on top (the PCV ports) are -10 and the crank case vent is a -12. Does that fully answer your question?

Kristian_Wraae

07-22-2008, 05:33 PM

Yes, in full. Thanks.

arz

07-22-2008, 05:49 PM

For all, Kristian, is refering to the AN fittings shown in this photo. Notice for the PCV I took a -8AN flare/-10AN port and turned the threads off the flare side and left a little lip on it to help retain the hose, like the factory nipple.

On the Crank Case Vent I took a -12AN flare/-12AN port and turned the Flare side off and did the same thing. Notice the stock hose is already hooked up but there is an AN fitting in there.

http://www.arizonaperformance.com/parts_photos/cam_covers/CIMG3527_resize.JPG

I made reference to these many times and no one showed any real interest in them. I think mostly because people dont want to spend money on something twice. And I dont blame them, but if its the only way you can get your car back up and running quickly then sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do.

I will help any way I can, just let me know if you or any of the others would like a set of these modified fittings. The more people the cheaper they will be. Obviously you guys will need to pay for them first.

figgie

07-24-2008, 03:37 PM

hey arz...

the link you posted is da broken!....

Kristian_Wraae

07-24-2008, 04:44 PM

That is why I took those AN fittings, that I initially reccommended in the XRP catalog and modified those on a lathe. The ones on top (the PCV ports) are -10 and the crank case vent is a -12. Does that fully answer your question?

Just to make sure before ordering:

PCV:
I get two Straight NON-SWIVEL MALE FLARE TO O-RING BOSS

http://www.japanerfusk.dk/AN.jpg

Male AN flare -8
AN port ORB -10

and modify them on a lathe

For the crank case vent:

Male AN flare -10
AN port ORB -12

Is that correct? Or is it -12 / -12 for the crank case.

Looking at the AN fittings I was supplied it looks like i have flare 16 and ORB 12 for the crank case. Is that correct?

So I guess it's 12/12 for the crank case.

arz

07-25-2008, 08:56 AM

Just to make sure before ordering:

PCV:
I get two Straight NON-SWIVEL MALE FLARE TO O-RING BOSS

http://www.japanerfusk.dk/AN.jpg

Male AN flare -8
AN port ORB -10

and modify them on a lathe

For the crank case vent:

Male AN flare -10
AN port ORB -12

Is that correct? Or is it -12 / -12 for the crank case.

Looking at the AN fittings I was supplied it looks like i have flare 16 and ORB 12 for the crank case. Is that correct?

So I guess it's 12/12 for the crank case.Yes, you need a -12/-12 for the Crank case vent if thats what you are going to use to turn down to the stock size. And a -8 AN flare/-10 AN port for the PCV ports. If you want I can look for more detailed photos of what I did on the lathe, so you can show your lathe guy.

hey arz...

the link you posted is da broken!....Fixed, see image below.
http://www.arizonaperformance.com/parts_photos/cam_covers/CIMG3527_resize.JPG

Kristian_Wraae

07-27-2008, 05:27 AM

Thanks

Parts are ordered.

I'm converting a JDM throttlebody to accept direct linkage from underneeth the manifold. I hope to keep cruise control.

I'm considering grinding down the centercover ribs. Do you have a spare one I can buy if I screw it up?

Also considering chroming the covers.

I'm replacing the 3000 pipe with a pipe of similar dimensions as the rest of the intercooler piping. Should allow for clearance for the center cover. If not I'll bend the pipe. I assume it will not affect performance of the car since it's just the same diameter as the rest of the piping?

With a little luck covers should be on in two or three weeks.

arz

07-28-2008, 05:43 PM

A 2.75 dia pipe just barely clears the Cam Covers. Getting a pipe bent to clear a center cover would be nearly impossible.

Yes I still have more 1 piece ribbed center covers left. It really will be difficult to remove that much material and still keep it smooth, unless your machining aluminum really loads up sand paper, grinding wheels, and belt sanders.

On the chromeing, I would make sure that the temps are not elevated over 280 F for any period of time. I know the Chroming process does not require temps above this, but when you chrome Aluminum you need a substrate for the chrome to bond to and Im not sure what temps are required for the zinc to bond to the aluminum and then the copper to bond to the zinc and then the nickel to bond to the copper.

Make sure the plater is comfortable with plating or masking the threads in the AN ports. Plating on threads can chip off and become wedged in between threads and completely destroy or at the very least gall the threads.

Outside sharp corners create low currents, very nature of an outside corner (like the minor diameter of and inside thread) are not as strong as a flat surface, so if the aluminum is deflected like when you are torquing on the threads, the chrome could chip off and become lodged in the threads just like a wedge. Also the leading chamfer going into each thread IS the clearance required by the o-ring. by plating this area you are reducing the are the o-ring can sqhish into. If its not to much, you will be fine if the plating grows too much there wont be room for the o-ring to squish and it will split and fail.

This is especially of concern in the Oil Cap area.

Im not saying it cant be done, I just want you to be aware of the consequences.

Kristian_Wraae

07-29-2008, 07:48 AM

Ok, thanks

I'm going to replace the 3000 pipe with a 2.25" pipe and a reducer between the pipe and the throttle body. That is the size of the rest of the stock piping so I guess it will not affect performance. I think it will clear the center cover.

I have talked to a proffesional grinding/polishing company about grinding down the ribs. I'm waiting to hear what they say.

Nobody here in Denmark will chrome aluminium. The solutions used are too toxic and are banned. So polished aluminium it will be.

arz

07-29-2008, 09:32 AM

Yea, Chroming aluminum is quite a bit more involved than steel, its probably best.

Spanish Surprise

07-29-2008, 11:25 AM

try www.rbchroming.com
The owner is a DFW local and a really good guy. Im taking a few pieces to him soon.

arz

07-30-2008, 09:06 AM

try www.rbchroming.com
The owner is a DFW local and a really good guy. Im taking a few pieces to him soon.Chances are the shipping to and from Sweden will be more than the Chroming or the Center Cover for that matter.

Spanish Surprise

08-01-2008, 10:03 PM

whoa! Sweden! I didnt notice. True, though I know hes done chroming for someone in Australia...

Kristian_Wraae

08-02-2008, 03:16 AM

Well Denmark not Sweden, but almost the same thing.....

Kristian_Wraae

08-09-2008, 07:16 AM

Just one question regarding the baffles.

I have the two baffles now. But there was a gasket between the baffle and the valve cover. The gaskets are of course totally destroyed by age. Should I just forget about them and not use them or what should I do. Of course Toyota doesn't sell those gaskets since they were never meant to be exchanged.

I assume gaskets are not needed I'm just checking before fastning everything with locktite.

arz

08-10-2008, 12:21 PM

Make sure to use the special Aircraft Paired washers I supplied in the kit. Do not separate the washers, or if you do make sure to put them back together exactly the way they came apart. These things are awesome they are specifically designed to resist loosening due to vibration, even at very low torque values.

I used FIPG the Toyota brand Silicone to seal the baffles to the inside of the cam covers. I would assume any silicone would work.

Kristian_Wraae

08-10-2008, 12:43 PM

I have the black Toyota seal packing for use with engine oil.

I was thinking about cutting new gaskets from 1mm oil resistant gasket paper, bad idea?

So you won't recommend using loctite together with the washers? I'm just thinking that I don't like a loose nut/bolt in my crank case. So I bought that loctite that doesn't come loose ever.

arz

08-13-2008, 09:39 PM

Yea go ahead and use locktite but make sure not to get it in between the paired washers. Also I used the FIPG around the front of the Cam cover gasket inside the groove and right in the inside corner. havent had any leaks what so ever.

Kristian_Wraae

10-12-2008, 03:53 AM

What about the oil pan list? :naughty:

I am planning on one, but it is a bit further off, hopefully it will be very similar to the Group A one IJ has.

How is the oil pan comming along? Will you add provisions for the oil level sender?

RacerXJ220

10-12-2008, 04:05 PM

Waiting for custom made parts too huh?

;)

arz

10-13-2008, 11:58 PM

How is the oil pan comming along? Will you add provisions for the oil level sender?I didnt know the MKIII had a oil level sender. Is it similar to the MKIV (JZ) oil level sender.

I am working on it the oil pan, you will be very excited about all its features.

Kristian_Wraae

10-14-2008, 08:05 AM

My 1992 has an oil level sender. I know because I just had someone help me reseal the oil pan and he yanked out the oil pan before removing the oi level sender - breaking it.

I think 1992 and maybe 1991 had it in Europe.

It's a nice feature and could save the engine.

I'll get a new one in the mail today or tomorrow. I can snap a picture of it for you.

mk3forme

10-14-2008, 12:33 PM

Oil level sender? Thats a new one. Is there a guage you read it by?

Justin727

10-14-2008, 12:45 PM

usually if it's that low its usually too late. The light just reassures you that you are indeed F*cked lol

mk3forme

10-14-2008, 12:48 PM

ohhhh an idiot light. Of course!!!

Kristian_Wraae

10-14-2008, 01:01 PM

There is an indicator light where the TEMS LEDs go in the US version.

If you look hard enough you can just make out the oil can:

http://www.euphonium.dk/DCP_3077r.JPG

I have been saved by the oil light once.

If you are low on oil it usually starts glowing when you boost and stops when you let go of the accelerator. Then you know not to drive any more and stop for oil....

Justin727

10-14-2008, 01:21 PM

It's a shame some people aren't that smart. Most would drive it till the light is at its brightest full glow.

upgradedsupra

10-14-2008, 04:49 PM

Clueless

11-07-2008, 09:23 AM

I think the smooth valve covers look good without the valley covers....

SWD Fredester 3

11-22-2008, 09:05 AM

Hey Andy, just received all of my parts this morning. The cam covers and ribbed center cover are beautiful. Extremely nice work on everything, didn't realize the oil pump supply line was so stout, what an improvement over stock. Thanks again for the great service and info and fast shipping.
I wish you and your family a great Holiday Season.
Cordially, Fred

arz

11-23-2008, 09:14 PM

It was a pleasure doing business with you, thanks for all the kind words.

Please post photos here when you have them installed.

Kristian_Wraae

12-29-2008, 09:08 PM

..........

alloyguitar

01-02-2009, 12:14 AM

I'm going to be honest with you. I don't think I could put those on my car.

...they're far too pretty, and my engine is farrr too dirty. They're like works of cnc'd art.

Very cool stuff.

SWD Fredester 3

10-28-2009, 09:11 AM

Hey Andy, finally getting my build together. Here are some pics of the cam covers.

arz

10-28-2009, 10:02 PM

Those look AWESOME!!! Thanks for posting so all can see. Keep us up to date on your build.

Thanks again.

satx88supra

11-01-2009, 03:58 PM

That is some sick looking work!!!!! I'm already heading to the finance dept. (wife) to get these put on the X-mas list!!!

HKS_TRD

11-19-2009, 05:39 AM

I have a question

If you are running the stock alternator in the stock position with the factory bracket, is there sufficient clearance to run a -16 fitting and braided line on the PCV port near the oil filler cap. If so what fitting does one need, straight, 45 or 90? Seems really tight around that area for those of us with stock intake manfiold and alternatior location

Actually, has anyone with stock intake manifold run these valve covers yet? How many pairs you got left?

OK thats more than one question

Ever considered a CNC intake manifold?

upgradedsupra

11-19-2009, 05:56 AM

I have a question

If you are running the stock alternator in the stock position with the factory bracket, is there sufficient clearance to run a -16 fitting and braided line on the PCV port near the oil filler cap. If so what fitting does one need, straight, 45 or 90? Seems really tight around that area for those of us with stock intake manfiold and alternatior location

Change the lame manifold. ;)

I run -16 but because you still run a stock alt location, I doubt it would fit. IIRC, -12 would work. I am sure Andy will chime in.

Oh, a 90 is what you would need.

Duane

HKS_TRD

11-19-2009, 06:02 AM

Isnt the ID of the stock hose equal to a -16, so going to -12 would be a restriction?

WHat if I trimmed the alternator bracket back a little

I cant get rid of that manifold after all the work I put into the manifold, throttle body etc etc plus it would change the character and theme of my build

And I am not made of money

IJ.

11-19-2009, 06:07 AM

Could probably run a -6 hose there without any issues at all....
(the other side doesn't have a big ass drain)

If you look at the block fitting it's a plug for the old M series Distributor and Oil pump drive, my guess is the hose really doesn't need to be that big as there's minimal Oil being pumped to the top of the motor as the feed hole is only 4mm from memory.

HKS_TRD

11-19-2009, 06:09 AM

This is exciting news as I originaly wanted to run a -12 push on style barbed fitting fuel line (they dont go bigger) but when I discovered the size of the lines thought I couldnt. What could I do about the one in the block, and is is too late to change it after its come back from the machine shop?

IJ.

11-19-2009, 06:13 AM

It's just pressed in, a pipe from the bottom or a slide hammer from the top will get it out then it's a simple turning job to make a new aluminium one that can be drilled/tapped to take any AN fitting you desire.

HKS_TRD

11-19-2009, 06:30 AM

I see

I'll have to keep this in mind. I am trying to eliminate as many factory Toyota hoses as possible

upgradedsupra

11-19-2009, 07:44 AM

If you put an A&N fitting on top portion, do the one on the block as well.

SupraOfDoom

11-26-2009, 02:57 AM

Drool.

arz

01-08-2010, 08:25 PM

I keep forgetting to post some photos that Duane sent me a long time ago. Thanks Duane!!!

This does look truly amazing.
http://www.arizonaperformance.com/parts_photos/cam_covers/customer_cars/Enginebay006.jpg

http://www.arizonaperformance.com/parts_photos/cam_covers/customer_cars/Enginebay010.jpg

http://www.arizonaperformance.com/parts_photos/cam_covers/customer_cars/Enginebay014.jpg

http://www.arizonaperformance.com/parts_photos/cam_covers/customer_cars/Enginebay022.jpg

http://www.arizonaperformance.com/parts_photos/cam_covers/customer_cars/Enginebay024.jpg

http://www.arizonaperformance.com/parts_photos/cam_covers/customer_cars/Enginebay025.jpg

http://www.arizonaperformance.com/parts_photos/cam_covers/customer_cars/Enginebay026.jpg

SWD Fredester 3

01-08-2010, 09:06 PM

Hey Andy, how you been?

Duane your engine bay is absolutely gorgeous! Quite an exercise in a minimalist approach to function and design. The radiator set up is beautiful.

-Fred

upgradedsupra

01-09-2010, 08:31 PM

Thanks for the comments. :)

About time you posted some cam cover pics Andy. ;)

Here is a more recent pic although I do have some new goodies added since. :)

Duane

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q56/upgradedsupra/BremracetrackatPacmeet09enginebay.jpg

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q56/upgradedsupra/turbo.jpg

HKS_TRD

01-10-2010, 05:53 AM

Your engine bay is so clean it depresses me man

Though your brake master could use a little spruce up ;)

Poodles

01-10-2010, 06:15 AM

What, no coil cover?

Flateric

01-10-2010, 07:28 AM

Ya, it looks really crappy I think because it looks unnaturally clean and shiny.

Hey! You know what dude?

I know what would solve that problem!

You need to drive on up here to Calgary and visit me in it.

The slushy dirty roads will make it look just right after you then drive all the way back home.

I'll clear out the extra bedroom for you then.

When are you leaving?

upgradedsupra

01-10-2010, 02:10 PM

Your engine bay is so clean it depresses me man

Though your brake master could use a little spruce up ;)

lol My master is new, I just need to add new nuts to it. ;) Bay isn't perfect and is always a work in progress for me. I am adding more things from time to time.

What, no coil cover?

Yes, I have Tein HA but have had the pillow ball mounts in a box for a long time. lol No time....

Ya, it looks really crappy I think because it looks unnaturally clean and shiny.

Hey! You know what dude?

I know what would solve that problem!

You need to drive on up here to Calgary and visit me in it.

The slushy dirty roads will make it look just right after you then drive all the way back home.

I'll clear out the extra bedroom for you then.

When are you leaving?

lol I drove my Supra over 7000 miles last year. :)

HKS_TRD

01-10-2010, 03:43 PM

I have to give you credit a car that tuff that gets driven that much is plain awesome

Ah I am trying to get a new brake master too but seems no go. What would have been good is to either paint it or polish it and clear anodise it. The grain on the factory finish is your enemy as dirt collects in it quickly and it looks old and its hard to maintain, sorry not being picky just know you like little details

What are some of these new bits and pieces? Email or PM me if you like

upgradedsupra

01-11-2010, 03:56 PM