View Full Version : Major headbolt issue
2slow4you
12-02-2006, 08:22 PM
SO I started takin' my 7m apart. Got the intake and exhaust manis off and some other small stuff. Pulled the cams and started on the headbolt.
It seems the previous owner did a HG job on it and tripped the 3rd from the front (exhaust side) headbolt out.
Due to space restrictions I can't get one of my bolt extractors in there. Can't get a socket to hammer over the head of the bolt.
Have any ideas or suggestions?
oh holy shit, bolt extractors are the devil. do you have pics? and another thing to try is smear valve lapping compound on the sides of your socket and bolt head. if you cant get that, theres stuff called strip out thats basically a gritty paste. works great for removing stripped screws and bolts, because it puts the fastener in a bind with the tool allowing you to grip it. try some of that
another idea: jb weld a socket to the bolt head and remove it (make sure its a shitty socket and you do a nice clean job of jbwelding them)
2slow4you
12-02-2006, 10:39 PM
oh holy shit, bolt extractors are the devil. do you have pics? and another thing to try is smear valve lapping compound on the sides of your socket and bolt head. if you cant get that, theres stuff called strip out thats basically a gritty paste. works great for removing stripped screws and bolts, because it puts the fastener in a bind with the tool allowing you to grip it. try some of that
another idea: jb weld a socket to the bolt head and remove it (make sure its a shitty socket and you do a nice clean job of jbwelding them)
Tried JB stickwelding an 11mm hex socket inside of it. Let it dry over night and it just crumbeled out.
I was thinking about busting out my mig and welding a 1/4in drive extension in it but I think it would break from the stress of how ever tight the other guy torqued it to.
I'll see if I can find some of that strip out stuff:icon_conf
suprapower1221
12-02-2006, 11:31 PM
Mine was stripped before. I ended up drilling it out. But it ruined the head.
2slow4you
12-03-2006, 01:53 PM
Mine was stripped before. I ended up drilling it out. But it ruined the head.
That's why I haven't gone that far yet. If I break something I'll want to replace it with an upgrade; which, 9 times outa 10, would be some type of motor swap that I don't have the funding for lol
Figit090
12-03-2006, 06:04 PM
could you remove the head and get a really good vicegrip on the thing? youd have to lift the head off really carefully but it would be kinda like handling a stud....
if it broke enough to allow the head to get over...
if not then i'm at a loss.
if so you might have to unbolt the engine and move it or something, i dont remember how hard it is to get the head off with the clearances allowed...
RacerXJ220
12-03-2006, 06:15 PM
That sucks man!!!!!
Wow. However, if you pay shipping, I have a free head for you if you end up ruining that one.
Let us know.
mrnickleye
12-03-2006, 06:21 PM
Yep...that's what I'd do. Carefully drill the head of the fastener off.
Start by using a sharp punch to center the hole, then using a 1/8" bit, go down into the shank a ways, then opening it up with a 3/16" bit, then a 1/4", and so on, till it pops off.then lift cylinder head off.
Been there, done that....many times.:biglaugh:
i drilled a bolt that had sheared off, put a bolt extractor in and immediately the bolt extractor snapped off flush with the sheared bolt. talk about pissed. in addition to the bolt, i had a piece of hardened extractor in there too.
2slow4you
12-03-2006, 11:22 PM
If the strip out stuff fails I'm going to drill it out. Thank god I got ARP headstuds to put in the f'er :)
lagged
12-04-2006, 12:03 AM
youll have to drill it. sucks.
you better tear the entire motor apart after that and let a machine shop clean out the block and the head. at that point you might as well rebuild it.
ians13
12-04-2006, 05:33 PM
take it to any good machanic and have them weld a nut or bolt to the head bolt and remove it that way don't drill,
the head bolts are hex so find a bolt that fits in the hex and have them weld it in there
any good welder should be able to weld a bolt or nut to it I do it all the time it's the best way to remove broken and stripped out bolts.
the reason i say don't drill because you will not be able to hold the drill level and you may cause more damage.
boost fiend
12-04-2006, 08:17 PM
^^ i agree^^
done it a million times! works like magic.
2slow4you
12-07-2006, 11:23 PM
I'm hot tanking the block and had planned on a rebuild anyways =-)
1 thing about welding it is the f'n slag that comes with it.
Another note: No other person touches my cars or truck unless: A. State inspection or B. Machineshop matching bearing for a build. If something f's up I can only point the finger at myself lol
Mr.PFloyd
12-08-2006, 12:27 AM
what i did i used one of those drills that starts off thin and increases the size every so often (i cant remember the name but i think its called a step drill bit) in metric size and tried some random sizes. i got the 14 snugly fit eventually and got it out. By chance is this head bolt on the very back of the head on the intake side? just curious :D
ians13
12-10-2006, 06:10 PM
I'm hot tanking the block and had planned on a rebuild anyways =-)
1 thing about welding it is the f'n slag that comes with it.
Another note: No other person touches my cars or truck unless: A. State inspection or B. Machineshop matching bearing for a build. If something f's up I can only point the finger at myself lol
that's what a shop vac is for slag, no problem man.
supra90turbo
12-10-2006, 11:54 PM
just pile rags around it, and clean off the headbolt real good.
they make an anti-slag spray or paste or something like that, and it works really good.
i'd just weld an extension to it. a 1/2"dr should hold up fine.
2slow4you
12-14-2006, 12:21 AM
Welder took a shat on me so looks like I'm drillin. It's all good I was gonna put some new valves and seals in it anyways. Meaning I'm getting another head just in case lol
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