Porting and polishing

[s383mmber1]

Hey guys, im thinking about porting and polishing my head and intake manifold and everyhtign associated with it. Any helpful pointers? Whats the best dremel to use? Kits? Any difficulties i should know of in advance?

Ive definatly done my research and im pretty sure i know what im doing!

:biglaugh:

Any advice>?

[dcrusupra]

You are brave. I wouldnt even try to do that at all. Good luck with it.

[IJ.]

Using a Dremel is going to be tough long hard slow going.....

Buy a Die Grinder and some Carbide Burrs 1x Tulip and 1x Rounded end cylinder and you'll whip through it fairly quickly.

A couple of flapper wheels and some cartridge rolls to clean up and you're set.

[group a supra]

Using a Dremel is going to be tough long hard slow going.....

Buy a Die Grinder and some Carbide Burrs 1x Tulip and 1x Rounded end cylinder and you'll whip through it fairly quickly.

A couple of flapper wheels and some cartridge rolls to clean up and you're set.

+ 1 here

[siman]

Carbide tips only please. LOL

Either way its going to take a while. Its not "easy" as you have to be VERY precise!

I will do a little write up after I port mine out this week.

-Jonathan

[1TuffSupra]

with aluminum you can still use a dremel tool in order to do the port and polishing. I used my dremel to p&p my TB and intake manifold on my old eclipse. It does take quite a bit longer than it would with a grinder w/ carbide bits, but it will work. I got quite a nice little gain even though the car was NA. Just remember you do have to get some bits made for metal work in order for it to work. But if you dont have air tools the dremel is a nice alternative

[IJ.]

Electric Die Grinder........

A Dremel will take weeks to remove the same amount of material that the Die Grinder with the Correct Burr for Aluminium will do in hours!

They're NOT that expensive and it's a case of the right tool for the job.

[silvergsx623]

yeah... i did mine with a dremel, it sucked.
Electric Die is the way to go.
also besides the carbide bits... you'll want some sanding bits also to make it smooth. i used 80, 120, 320 on mine, it looks good

good luck

http://www.teamvexracing.com/100_0747.jpg

the TB port was not finished yet in the picture

[Mr.SelfDestruct]

get a spare head first, incase you fuk it up.

[1TuffSupra]

man i didnt see that you were trying to p&p the head too. In all honesty I wouldnt fuck with the head at all unless you are willing to buy another one. A mistake while doing that can be quite costly.

I didnt know they made electric die grinders, I bought an entire set of air tools and the compressor for my supra. But that is def a better alternative than using the damn dremel, take my word for it it will take a LONG time. A quick search on ebay and it seems like you can get a die grinder from 5-60 bucks. Of course the bits are gonna be what costs ya.

[IJ.]

These pics may help you NOT get it wrong! ;)

http://img370.imageshack.us/img370/6127/head38cl.th.jpg (http://img370.imageshack.us/my.php?image=head38cl.jpg)

http://img370.imageshack.us/img370/7664/head16ak.th.jpg (http://img370.imageshack.us/my.php?image=head16ak.jpg)

http://img370.imageshack.us/img370/5653/head29ko.th.jpg (http://img370.imageshack.us/my.php?image=head29ko.jpg)

http://img370.imageshack.us/img370/6209/head44kt.th.jpg (http://img370.imageshack.us/my.php?image=head44kt.jpg)

[s383mmber1]

ok guys, just went out and bought a die grinder. Its a craftsman right angle one.

Will this work as well because its a right angle?

Thaknal,ns

William

[IJ.]

Will: The right angle ones are great for getting into tight places but can be a little clumsy to use as you don't have the leverage that gives fine control and help stop chatter when using a Burr!

When you buy your burrs make sure you get the ones for Aluminium (http://www.american-carbide.com/Burs/ACB.aspx?SubCategoryID=10&selection=0&Cat=2)a quick way to tell the difference is usually one's for aluminium have only one set of coarse flutes where ones for steel have fine flutes! (http://www.american-carbide.com/Burs/CB.aspx?SubCategoryID=11&selection=2&Cat=2)

[s383mmber1]

Will: The right angle ones are great for getting into tight places but can be a little clumsy to use as you don't have the leverage that gives fine control and help stop chatter when using a Burr!

When you buy your burrs make sure you get the ones for Aluminium (http://www.american-carbide.com/Burs/ACB.aspx?SubCategoryID=10&selection=0&Cat=2)a quick way to tell the difference is usually one's for aluminium have only one set of coarse flutes where ones for steel have fine flutes! (http://www.american-carbide.com/Burs/CB.aspx?SubCategoryID=11&selection=2&Cat=2)

I keep on getting this stupid annoying thing......

"You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to IJ. again."

Thanks Ian! Ill +1 ya later!

:biglaugh:

[IJ.]

Very welcome Will!

Another tip is have a small cup (lid off a spray can works well for this as it's low and wide) of Auto Trans Fluid on the bench and time to time dip the Burr in as it help stop the Cutter picking up adhesions!

(If you overheat the alloy taking heavy cuts that slow the die grinder or by taking light rubbing cuts it will melt a touch and clog the cutter)

[s383mmber1]

Thanks a lot Ian! Im gonna need as much help as i can get!

Another probably stupid, yet unanswered question is, How far do i port into the manifold? The die grinder can't reach all the way in. Do i just do as fare as the grinder can go in? Or am i just COMPLETLY missing something?

I should start this whole thing next weekend. I am getting my manifold, Ypipe, and throttle body on friday i beilive!

Thanks a whole lot!

[IJ.]

You can buy long shank Carbide Burrs (http://www.american-carbide.com/Burs/LSB.aspx?SubCategoryID=13&selection=4&Cat=2)Will!
(They chatter like a bitch though)

You'd be better off just reaching what you can and removing any obvious dags and blending everything nicely!

The 7M manifolds and ports aren't too bad stock so you're just giving em a cleanup!

[s383mmber1]

Thats exactly what i plan on doing. I dont want to go to crazy, jsut cleaning up a little bit. Well, maybe a little more, but nothing to wacked!

[IJ.]

The key to it is consistancy!

Do a small area on one port then do the same area on each port.

Repeat the process on each new area this way you tend to get into a pattern with the angles you need and end up with ports more or less the same! (Important for flow)

I used to make a set of go/no go gauges/templates when I was doing headwork.

These were sheetmetal on a rod with a stop that would contact the manifold flange to set the depth.

You open up a port then make a guage to fit it then start the next port and stop when the gauge fits and so on down the head! (using mutiple gauges)