View Full Version : BHG/ idle cool/ high speed over heat

April 24th, 2005, 12:40 PM
Well, its been a while but I'm back. Yes me, the yard gnome. :) But anyway. I see the problem cramerizking has been having with overheating. Mine has been doing the same for about 5 days. Water pump, fan clutch, thermostat, belt, and flushing like crazy then replacing the clutch fan again solved none of this. Come to find out I now have a blown head gasket. So I am in the same boat. So I have to put the limited skills I have to work to get it running so I can go to school in the fall. So research is at hand and any tips you guys have will be appreciated.
What seems to have happened is one of my hoses clogged a while back. It mildly overheated. From then on its been a battle. The overheating caused the thermostat to go bad in the process. Hot after driving for about 20 minutes. didnt matter the speed. Then after replacing the rad cap, again, it started missing after running for 20 minutes. Not at idle, only after driving it. So that leads me to believe the gasket blew between the water jacket and the cylinder. Which is better then getting water in the oil. At least that might not make it a complete rebuild.

April 24th, 2005, 04:58 PM
Sorry to hear that man. I was wondering where you were at. The avatar is unique to say the least!

Hope you get it all sorted out.


April 25th, 2005, 05:54 PM
Thanks Blue87T(Dan). I will get it worked out. I'm trying to find a race head shop today and probably for the rest of the week. I went through the llist of things that I need for the BHG replacment. Lots of things. So it will have to be bought a little at a time but it will get done.

April 25th, 2005, 06:45 PM
do your self a favor, wherever you bring your head print out the toyota specs for it . all torque specs and whatever else you can think of and hand it to the guy and the shop.

then, after you get your head back check EVERYTHING. the vavle clearences, the torque on the bolts for the cam journal caps, CORRECT cap locations etc etc.

April 26th, 2005, 12:38 AM
Well.. I wouldnt really know what to visually look for. Thanks for the advice though. I will look at the TRSM and see what I can find. Dont know how to check valves. So I'm screwed on that. But I can do a visual on the rest. Maybe Drake can help me out. I'll see. If not. I'm on my own.
One question. I've heard the debate on gaskets. I'll look at what everyone is using. I just want to know if it would be ok to go stock gasket since its not turbo and it doesnt get driven real hard. Not saying I dont have a lead foot.. I do. Its just not under stress all the time. Just asking for your opinions.

April 26th, 2005, 12:47 AM
Oper8or: Check the head for errosion under the copper rings at the water passages, you might have to have the head surfaced then check the same area on the block if it's ok and the block is flat there's no reason why a stock gasket won't work!
(I did 100,000+ KM's after doing much the same excluding surfacing the head)

April 26th, 2005, 10:13 AM
Thanks IJ. That is good news. I dont have the area (garage) to pull the engine and have the block done as well. I hope I can have this done soon. I'm going to start pulling the head this weekend when it warms up. I'm taking pictures of it as an added precaution. I'm going to take it one step at a time. Not rushing this so I dont botch it up.

April 27th, 2005, 05:23 PM
Summit racing has a good price on ARP studs or bolts for the 7M-GTE. I would assume they would work in your N/A. Double check though.

With those, like IJ said, the stock composite gasket should be fine.


April 27th, 2005, 05:26 PM
Good. I'll check it now. Summit here I come. I'm hoping it doesnt have more damage then expected. Thanks for the input guys.

May 11th, 2005, 10:15 AM

After reading this. I now know for sure what it is. Water to cylinder. I'm STILL looking for a shop around here. Man does no one do good work anymore? I can find a single shop that does race prep or anything locally with him chewing and spitting on an old block setting in the corner of the shop that is going into a circle track car.
Side note. No I've never torn a Sup down. The experience I have is with vw's. Old ones. I'm kinda nervous about digging into and screwing something up. Anyone have any advice? I've searched the forums and found a few things. I'll be checking Jonez's site as well.

May 11th, 2005, 12:29 PM
Op: It's not too hard and you have a LOT of help at your fingertips here!

May 11th, 2005, 06:26 PM
Thanks man. Drake has offered advice as well. I'm going to look for the head bolts online tonight. After tomarow.. since the weather has gotten better, I am going to start taking it apart. With no garage to do this in. I have to find a way to keep everthing sorted. Any ideas on that? I thought about getting some cheap 'ol tupper ware like containers and using them and labeling them as to what bolt goes where. Plus I found a diagram of the vacuum lines today on the forums. This place is a load of info. :) Still HAVE NOT found a worthy shop. I called a buddy of mine that works at the local rental shop. He said he uses the one next to the NAPA. Well, I know the guy who owns it. Went to school with him. Hes a good machinest. I said good. Not what I need. I would trust him with a sb chevy engine. But not this head. So its a no go there. I heard of a machine shop up near Knoxville that does race prep work. I'm wondering if these are the better choice to go with. I'll take a drive and find out the name and number. If they do the work. I'll post pics and thier shop name and number so others know there is one here.

Stephen :bigthumb:

May 11th, 2005, 07:02 PM
Ziploc baggies :)

May 12th, 2005, 06:10 PM
Ziploc baggies :)
Smart *&%. I didnt even think of that. Thanks man! :)

May 13th, 2005, 09:35 AM
oper8or: I just did a BHG myself and it wasnt as bad as I thought it would be. Taking pictures is a great idea, also label all your wires and hoses so you will know where they go. Another thing to consider would be buying a rebuilt head from someplace like cylinder heads international or clearwater cylinder heads. You will have alot less downtime that way, they send you a new head, and when you get yours off, you put it in the box the new one came in and send it back to them. Mine cost $500 including the shipping, and they got it to me fast. If you would like phone#'s, let me know. Hope this helps. Ed

May 13th, 2005, 02:36 PM
Op: LOL now I just have to start listening to my own advice ;)
(I have a bunch of yellow plastic boxes full of left overs!)

May 16th, 2005, 06:01 PM
oper8or: I just did a BHG myself and it wasnt as bad as I thought it would be. Taking pictures is a great idea, also label all your wires and hoses so you will know where they go. Another thing to consider would be buying a rebuilt head from someplace like cylinder heads international or clearwater cylinder heads. You will have alot less downtime that way, they send you a new head, and when you get yours off, you put it in the box the new one came in and send it back to them. Mine cost $500 including the shipping, and they got it to me fast. If you would like phone#'s, let me know. Hope this helps. Ed

Heck yes. Pm me the # of the company. I will call them asap and get this thing running. Please. Thank you for the help. I'd be lost without the people on these forums :icon_bigg

May 17th, 2005, 04:45 AM
clearwater cylinder head: 1-800-572-1963
international cylinder head: 1-800-942-4503
I used international myself, they had alot of the 7mgt heads in stock, but clearwater is less expensive if they have one. Good luck. Ed

May 29th, 2005, 09:32 PM
Thank you for the info. Now I can call these guys and get rolling.
I went out and started taking pics of it today. Well, something in my gut told me not to attempt the swap. I have no place to work on it. I dont have all the tools I need. And knowing me I would severly screw something up. I dont get it. I'm brave enough to tear into anything with wires. Smack down brakes, carbs, anything that is external on the engine or car. But when it comes to mucking up the inside. I dont dare. I used to be good at this. WTF. So in my awe of being such a loser. I am opting to chicken out and have it worked on. I know.. I'm a panzy. I just want it to run the way it was intended to run when its back together. Now if I had a garage and all the tools I need. Np.. I would have the space I need to do it. But I am so sick of laying in the dirt working on cars. I know some of you have it worse. I've been in worse myself. Guess I will call the shop on Tuesday. "mark me as a chicken i guess" :kloguck:

July 14th, 2005, 07:46 AM
Well shes in a shop. A lot of rain here has forced me to do that. No garage and no family or friends with one. :) So, it willl be done soon. Plus hes certified Toyota mechanic. That does help my confidence. But now I'm single again, yeah, she left. The kids took it hard. But we are ok.

July 14th, 2005, 09:22 AM
Tell the mechanic that you *absolutely require* that he torque the headbolts to 72 foot pounds, and damn the specs in the manual.

Sorry to hear about being single, that shit is always hard to deal with.

July 14th, 2005, 09:36 AM
hey where u live at? im in Dickson and i have a 2 car garage and me and my dad are building another 2 car garage. i'll be doing my 2jz swap in one of them and my dad is going to fully restore his 56 buick. wish i would have caught this thread earlier.
well drop me a PM if you ever need a garage, though i dont know how far u are from me.

July 18th, 2005, 05:43 AM
I'm in Greenback. Just west of Maryville. Not sure how far that is from you though. Thank you for the offer. It shows alot :)

I told the mechanic that it must have new arp bolts, and be torqued per spec to the sheet the head bolts come with. Not toyotas spec. If he has any questions to contact me right away. Hes the mechanic. I told him " its my car". So he understands exactly what I mean. I got his shop off of a referal from a co-worker. Hope like hell it was the right decision.

July 18th, 2005, 03:03 PM
Sounds like you're on the right track. Let us know how it turns out.

July 19th, 2005, 01:29 PM
what is this going to cost ya to have done?

August 2nd, 2005, 08:00 PM
Is the Supra done yet?

If so, how did everything come out?


August 7th, 2005, 08:27 AM
Well its Sunday the 7th. He called Wed and said he had it back together but it was still idling at 3/4 temp. So I told him to go ahead and check the radiator and the heater core. He called again Friday when I wasnt home and said on the machine it is done. So I will be picking it up later this week. Dont know the total on the cost of it yet. But its less then 800 I know that for a fact. That is having all head work done and new plugs and wires as well. I'll post back when I've picked it up. If he done a good job on it I will post his info on here for everyone. He's kinda back woodsy but hes a good guy.

August 10th, 2005, 03:38 PM
Well its done. No more overheating. No more spewing blood out of hoses. The total cost:
Head rework
arp head bolts

totoal: $943.20
I do not have the car back yet. I dont have that kind of cash to drop in an instant plus new job, school, kids. It all stacks up. So it will be 3 weeks before I can get it back. So wish me luck. I'll post back on how its running and whether or not I recommend him. Hell, the price is cheaper than what I paid for having a bhg on my 83 celica/supra 7 years ago! Kinda suprised me. What do you guys think?

August 10th, 2005, 04:46 PM
Sounds damn cheap to me. I just spent $800 getting my head worked on, the only parts involved were new valve seals. The headbolts, gasket, plugs and wires would put you well over your total, and you haven't figured in any labor yet.

August 13th, 2005, 03:39 PM
Ouch Grim. I figured this guy was worth a try. Just to see. I've heard a lot of good things about him. Plus sometimes it depends on location. He gets a lot of business by word of mouth so that tells me a lot.

August 14th, 2005, 02:25 PM
Price sounds very reasonable.

Post up when you pick it up.


September 12th, 2005, 07:07 PM
$984.00 total cost of the work done.
Head work done.
New stock head gasket and bolts.
Plugs and wires.
Running the fuel tank vent line to the vsv.
Jerry rigging the a/c fan to run with the ignition on.
Battery being dead when picked up the car.
Heater no longer changes over to heat.
Last but not least.. realizing that the cruise control no longer works...
Actually not priceless. Pissed me off. Now I have to completely rerun all of my vacuum lines and check my fuses and replace my radiator. So that was a $984 lesson on who not to use as a mechanic.

Now I have a couple questions.
1) Where does the vacuum line off the cruise control run to? It doesnt show that on the diagram online.
2) Is the heater actuated by a vacuum line? I noticed that a vacuum line runs to a vavle on the firewall that the water lines on the back of the block (and one on the side) run to before they run to the heater core.

The name of the shop NOT to use is Precission auto in Maryville, TN. Just to let those near me know about him. PLUS a big, well to me it is, huge dent in my hood. It is still overheating on top end. 75 mph plus will cause it to go more then 3/4 heat. After replacing everything under the hood except the radiator. Guess what.. that is next. I found a place near by (Knoxville) that sells new factory replacement radiators for $130 pickup. They also offer delivery. Which would only cost me another $15. Not bad I say. Thier site is www.radiator.com
They have 4 techs online and on the phones at all times. Which is cool.
Hope you guys can help me with the questions above. Its getting to be a little cooler here and the kids need the heater. Especailly the woman who complains about being cold when its 93 out side... lol..

September 13th, 2005, 12:03 AM
Not sure if this will help, but here we go anyhow:



Heater control is actuated by a vacuum line, it's on the passenger side, mounted on the firewall, with coolant hoses connected to both ends.

The other thing that regularly foils the cruise control is the safety switch on the clutch pedal getting out of adjustment - the cruise thinks the clutch is in and disengages the cruise. Does your cruise light come on at all? Does it flash?

September 14th, 2005, 03:12 PM
Wow thanks for the pics Grim.
The cruise control light only flashes when at a stop light. If I hold it down. I'll check the switch this weekend. As for the vacuum lines. I'll take the pics you put up and use them as a ref. Thanks again for those.
Wish I could have someone here with me so I would have a face to face car to deal with..lol. But that is cool. Those pics do help. I'll download them and blow them up.

September 15th, 2005, 05:15 PM
Ok Grim. I tried. But now I am going nuts. Hes got hoses hanging everywhere. Some are just looped around to themselves in a different area.. I'm about to pull my hair out. I tried blowing your pictures up, but, to no evale I noticed yours is a turbo. Completely different layout. Mine is N/A 86.5. I've browsed links on the forums but I cant find one single layout for an N/A supra. They are all turbo. I made a post in one of those areas so I hope they reply. It late here and I dont have good lighting to look further under the hood. I will get it worked out. One way or the other. If all else fails I'll just cap them all and work from there until it runs smooth and both my heater and my cruise control work. It's worth a shot. But I just wanted to keep it as stock as possible. Plus come to find out I found a vsv hanging in mid air. My bar running from the motor mount to the intake isnt even connected. God knows what else I will find the deeper I dive in. He really screwed me over.

September 18th, 2005, 07:46 AM
OK. I'm to that now. The post shows the diagram for my vacuum lines and how they are ran on my supra. The only other thing I need to know is where to patch in my lines for the heater and the cruise control. The help is much appreciated guys and gals. It's great to have all this info on here. I looked on the tsrm and I found the diagram for the CC and the heater, but it doesnt show where to patch them in. Or can I just plug them anywhere there is positive pressure?
I ordered a new radiator from radiator.com. They shipped it out via Fedex and will be here Tuesday. Only cost me $146 dollars shipped. Not bad I think.

September 22nd, 2005, 05:02 PM
Got the new radiator in today and the car no longer runs hot. Now this weekend the lines will be ran. :)

October 4th, 2005, 07:49 PM
Heck yeah! Thanks guys for helping me through this. I got the intake tore off, new injector seals are in. Vacuum lines are ran the way they are supposed to be. She purs like a kitten. Heater works and so does the cruise control. I kicked myself for not doing the work in the first place. It feels good to know I can do the work.
One question. What would happen if I ran the fuel vent to the first vacuum opening on the intake? Since I took out the charcoal canister and got rid of the lines running from the thermostat (vacuum lines) it left an open slot on the intake. I was wondering if I ran the fuel vent line to it if it would hurt anything. Dont think it would, but its better to ask.

Thank you all for putting up with my ignorance. :)