View Full Version : Dougs frustrated 2j (1j?) supra build
dslocal
10-17-2009, 01:38 AM
For those of you who don't like to sift through chatter, pictures are on post, 1, 12, 44
Well I finally got the car back together after having my front main seal go bad, While I was there I dropped the subframe and powdercoated it/new bushings and steering rack/ball joints.
Got it back together only to find out my master cylinder went bad(1 remanufactured, and two new ones later still no luck)
After that, still with no brakes had to get it home from the shop so I drove the two miles in first and second gear, made it home only to pull into my driveway to hear my car start making a sound like there's a ferret trapped in the oil pan and my #6 injector go out(yay misfire)
Anyways I decided I'm done fucking with this thing, I'm going to redo the whole car.
I need help deciding what motor I want to do, It has a 1j with failing bearings in it right now running a blitz twin turbo kit and a aem, 18psi
Found a 2jz at a local junkyard 200 bucks (ge) so I need to get a gte head.
Eventually this car will be used as a weekend canyon runner/ cruiser. Shooting for around 600 on 91 octane and meth.
(friends been bragging about his 09 zo6 with its 505 hp:naughty:)
Plans for the build include a car rotisserie and a custom stainless rollcage, and whatever else me or you guys can think up, maybe stainless a-arms?
Anyway What you think? on to pictures, When I got it http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff232/honda450rider255/P1030014.jpg Fairly recent, I've tidied up a lot of the wiring and painted all the piping black
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff232/honda450rider255/P1030598.jpghttp://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs263.snc1/9026_102879479723569_100000045510896_82987_140931_n.jpg
dslocal
10-27-2009, 07:26 PM
Well since no one has posted on here I'll just give a quick update, I finished my new shop and am going to start pulling it apart next week.
I've been toying with the idea of dropping in a 1uz-fe and turboing it, Does anyone know if you can run a 1uz off of a 2jz AEM?
Please let me know, this is the only thing holding me back:icon_bigg
Poodles
10-27-2009, 07:31 PM
I'd say 1.5JZ as the only part that's really messed up is the bottom end, and you have a 2J block...
bloodasp90
10-27-2009, 08:11 PM
id say go 1.5j, i went through the same thing basicly..
NokaoiMK3
10-28-2009, 01:10 PM
So what is a 1.5j?
Google it... But basically just a 2jz bottom end with a 1jz head bolted on to it.. Easier swap usually for guys that are already running mods on there 1j's..
honestabe
10-28-2009, 01:21 PM
I'm with them, go 1.5JZ. Rebuild the block with new internals, get a new ATI super dampener, balance and blueprint the block, and build the head.
dslocal
10-28-2009, 02:43 PM
Alright I knew going 1.5jz was the most realistic option...
For the head I am planning on using some BC 272 cams and while on their website I noticed they are selling +1mm valves with springs, How do these compare to the ferea valves?
And any opinions on turbos? I'm looking to keep it in the $800 range so I figured the MP T-70 was the best bang for my buck. What do you guys think?
Zumtizzle
10-28-2009, 03:04 PM
Look into supertech valves.
honestabe
10-28-2009, 03:14 PM
Why the MP T70? Why not go with a Holset turbo or a Driftmotion DM67 (the DM 67 is about $800 and is good for 650 RWHP).
dslocal
10-28-2009, 08:20 PM
I have heard good things about the t-70, but then again the dm67 does look nice...
my goal with this build is 600 hp which will be plenty but I'm not sure if I want to be limited to that...
About the holset I know they are good turbos, hell they last 300k miles on a cummins. I just haven't found any good retailers and can't decide between the hx35 and hx40. leaning towards the 40 though. Any help?
dslocal
11-10-2009, 11:35 PM
I got a little done over the weekend, I'm bad at taking pictures while I'm working to so all you guys get to see is it after its done:biglaugh:
O and I picked my turbo out too but pics will wait till its here:icon_bigg
Anyways got the motor out and torn down, why are these pistons so clean on the intake side? and there is a little bit of wear on the cylinder walls but not much
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff232/honda450rider255/P1030926.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff232/honda450rider255/P1030927.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff232/honda450rider255/P1030928.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff232/honda450rider255/P1030929.jpg
I went ahead and stripped the whole front of the car and the interior, I am planning on freshining up the harnesses too which should be fun.
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff232/honda450rider255/P1030942.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff232/honda450rider255/P1030930.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff232/honda450rider255/P1030932.jpg
Lost the side skirts too, going back to stock, the PO decided it would be a good idea to use wood screws to attach them:nono:
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff232/honda450rider255/P1030938.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff232/honda450rider255/P1030937.jpg
Using different fenders too, they had both been hit pretty hard from the front at some point and whoever fixed them did a very poor job...
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff232/honda450rider255/P1030940.jpg
Then I went ahead and modified my bumper support for my turboA duct thats not here yet...:icon_surp
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff232/honda450rider255/P1030943.jpg
My Parts shelf
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff232/honda450rider255/P1030941.jpg
And you guys should know what I'm doing here, btw this stuff is a pain in the ass to get offhttp://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff232/honda450rider255/P1030944.jpg
dslocal
11-10-2009, 11:38 PM
Any suggestions on stuff to do while I have everything apart like this?
honestabe
11-11-2009, 12:29 AM
Stitch weld the body and interior. This will take a while (I've heard 2 days), but it will strengthen the body up. I'd also remove the factory sound insulation (tar mats) and put in dynamats in the whole interior. Could also fill in any holes that aren't being used and remove anything that wasn't being used (meaning mounting tabs for stuff that isn't on the car). Looks good bro.
GotTurbos?
11-11-2009, 12:44 AM
Looks like you have a ton of space to work there. I'm jealous!
dslocal
11-11-2009, 03:54 PM
Stitch weld the body and interior. This will take a while (I've heard 2 days), but it will strengthen the body up. I'd also remove the factory sound insulation (tar mats) and put in dynamats in the whole interior. Could also fill in any holes that aren't being used and remove anything that wasn't being used (meaning mounting tabs for stuff that isn't on the car). Looks good bro.
well yea, I kinda meant besides the obvious stuff:biglaugh:
And actually gotturbos we just finished putting up this new metal building like two weeks ago and there is a lot of room, part of the reason I'm doing this now:icon_surp
honestabe
11-11-2009, 04:32 PM
Cut the fender well lips to make more clearance for wider tires? Subframe reinforcement in the rear?
dslocal
11-11-2009, 09:16 PM
I like the subframe reinforcement def going to do that, what fender well lips are you talking about?
I was actually considering cutting the fenders and expanding them, the only thing is I dont really want to lose space in the engine bay especially since I don't have the new setup all fabed up so I will know how much extra room I will have...
honestabe
11-11-2009, 09:34 PM
The piece of metal this fender roller is bending.
http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/493/fenderrolling04.jpg (http://img94.imageshack.us/i/fenderrolling04.jpg/)
How would you lose space in the engine bay by expanding your fenders? You expand outward, not inward. There's a way that you can extend your front fenders and have it look fairly stock, although it requires a lot of work. Nick Stonawski (owner of the MKIII with the plate 2JZUL8R) had this done and it looks really good. If you just stretch out your lip like a lot of drifters do, it'll look like ass.
dslocal
11-11-2009, 11:36 PM
Ya ok that was what I thought you meant, just not sure. I was talking about making more room in the fenderwell so the tires don't rub at full lock, one of my buddies with a 350z recommended this because I guess they have trouble with that...
Anyways I am going to try to run 295/35/17 Nitto NT05's all the way around so I am pretty sure I will have to expand the fenders some how, luckily I have a set to practice on. Hahaha
honestabe
11-12-2009, 12:07 AM
Well to let you know I put my 275/40-17's on the front (was bored and the car was in the air with the wheels off anyways) and they stuck out the front fenders by an inch but didn't hit at full lock. So it looks like you'll have to widen the fenders atleast that much. Probably the easiest way is to widen it with a strip of steel on this seam and have it taper in at the front and back. BTW, what rims are you using with these tires? Offset?
http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/2998/09021622.jpg (http://img41.imageshack.us/i/09021622.jpg/)
dslocal
11-12-2009, 12:26 AM
I was actually just looking through tekdeus's build thread and noticed this and kinda liked the ideahttp://www.bicperformance.com/pics/Project%20widebody/brad6.JPG
Prob not going to do it along the top like you mentioned(tekdues actually had to do that later in the build because he was running close to a 0 offset in the front, didn't ad any metal though just filled the gap with weld) And plus I don't want to do that in the back.
I really have been looking all over the place for wheels but can't find any. I am looking for a 5 spoke about a +25 or +30 offset 17x11 or so.
There used to be a place on ebay selling some cobra r rims that were 17x10.5 and +25 but they discontinued them...
Btw thanks for your input, its nice to have at least one person to talk with:biglaugh:
dslocal
11-12-2009, 12:28 AM
Here is what tekdeus did. Who knows, his car turned out damn good, I guess while I'm there... but I actually kinda want to keep the stock bumpers/sides what do you think?http://www.bicperformance.com/pics/Project%20widebody/front%20fender%20mod2%20(Medium).JPG
honestabe
11-12-2009, 01:39 AM
Brad had aftermarket fenders installed in the rear and modified the front. His rear fenders are 3" wider and the front fenders are 2" wider. You're going to need to make the front fenders wider somehow. The first thing is to cut the inner lip. But you're still going to need the fender to be pushed out atleast an inch to clear those fat tires. I can't see the pics of Brads car for some reason.
dslocal
11-12-2009, 09:33 AM
Ok well I'll start messing with it tonight and post up pics
What size rims are you running? And where did you get them?
honestabe
11-12-2009, 12:53 PM
I'm running 17x8.5+27 in the front and 17x9.5+28 in the rear. I got my rims from Discounttiredirect.com It looks as though they stopped selling the 9.5" wide option of my rims though. You could get 5zigen in 17x10's that would work pretty well for your ride. The offsets seem to be pretty decent, especially the +35 offset.
http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/findWheelsBySize.do?wd=17&bp=5-114.3*5-4.5*5-4.5%2F5&rw=10
OneJArpus
11-12-2009, 01:19 PM
1.5JZ, i knocked my 1j and went with a 2jzge instantly
dslocal
11-12-2009, 01:49 PM
Personally I'd like to go a little more agressive than that. There nice wheels but I'm going to look around a bit more
dslocal
11-13-2009, 12:46 AM
Well I found some possibilities for the wheels,
with these wheels I could go as wide as 13" I'll have to look into road slick tire sizes...Hahaha
Only thing I don't like about this one is its a 18" and 1300 a pop:aigo:
(these guys also make a 5 spoke too, I kinda like this design better)
Here (http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/hre-c95-wheel-18x115-p-47558.html)
Volk (http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/volk-racing-te37-wheel-18x105-5x1143-p-10989.html) This wheel is a lot cheaper and should allow me to run the size I want, and a +22 offset would be aggressive enough
This Volk (http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/volk-racing-sf-challenge-wheel-18x11-5x1143-p-11118.html) So far I think is my best bet, like the design and decent offset.
What do you guys think? Only reason these are all 18's is because they didn't offer any in 17:3d_frown:
And don't tell me they won't fit cause I'm gunna make them fit:biglaugh:
honestabe
11-13-2009, 02:20 AM
Remember, you want a tall sidewall. Look at Indy cars and their tires, the sidewalls are absolutely massive! The Volk TE37's are always a good choice. IDK about you but I have a very hard time justifying $800+ per rim. Hell, mine cost me only $130 each
What do you think about this?
http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/findWheelDetail.do?bp=5-114.3&pc=23122&counter=2&wd=18&rw=10
dslocal
11-13-2009, 02:58 AM
Can't see it, page load error.
I don't mind spending 800 a rim to tell the truth especially if its the last set I'm going to buy for a couple years. And even if I do change them in the future I can save them. I'll look at it as an investment. hahaha
Remember, you want a tall sidewall. Look at Indy cars and their tires, the sidewalls are absolutely massive!
Indy cars and street cars share very little, especially where tire technology is concerned. Veeeeery different tire design, not to mention chassis/suspension tuning.
While it is possible to hurt performance by having too little sidewall, aiming to have a tall sidewall is a waste of time.
honestabe
11-13-2009, 09:39 PM
Ah, that makes sense Zach
dslocal
11-13-2009, 09:41 PM
:biglaugh: I wasn't going to say anything.
honestabe
11-13-2009, 09:59 PM
Sorry, my brain partially shuts down and takes a jolt like being reminded of something for it to register certain things properly (I'm dead serious on this). Wouldn't you want a low profile tire for road course racing since you don't want much sidewall flex? I.E. just a little bit of flex.
WhtMa71
11-13-2009, 11:32 PM
I say leave the stock fenders and possibly just roll them. Get wheels that are wide but have the right offset to fit in the fender.
I also voted for 1.5jz with some nice cams and your current turbo setup. I would go with a EMS like Stinger or AEM if you haven't already.
honestabe
11-13-2009, 11:43 PM
If you're going standalone, get a decent one like a ViPEC V88 (what I'm getting) or AEM2. The stinger is really basic. You get what you pay for with EMS's and if you cheap out you'll get something sub-par.
dslocal
11-14-2009, 02:16 PM
I'm already AEM so no worries there. Electronics are taken care of except for injectors. I was thinking of Rc 850's what do you think?
honestabe
11-14-2009, 03:08 PM
1st gen AEM or 2nd gen? How much power do you think you'll be putting down? That determines your injectors. Remember, 80% injector duty cycle is safe.
dslocal
11-14-2009, 08:48 PM
2nd gen AEM, I will prob shoot for around 600 daily but 700 or so would be sweet.
honestabe
11-14-2009, 09:35 PM
750-880cc injectors is what you'll need for that power.
honestabe
11-15-2009, 02:52 AM
3rd one. Pearl white is sexy as hell. IS300 pearl white?
dslocal
11-15-2009, 03:02 AM
I haven't really picked out the specific paint code yet but that ones up on the list. I was really leaning toward the volks just for the bling it probably is a bit to flashy though
dslocal
12-10-2009, 12:18 AM
Ok figured it was time for an update, got a few things done,:naughty:
This showed up on my step a couple days ago...
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff232/honda450rider255/P1040009.jpg
Finished the cage for the most part,
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff232/honda450rider255/P1040010.jpg
Seats in and driver harness mounted (ran out of time for pass one tonight)
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff232/honda450rider255/P1040012.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff232/honda450rider255/P1040016.jpg
And built a new shroud for my radiator. Still can't decide if I want to use stainless braided hoses or not. To bling or not to bling. :biglaugh:
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff232/honda450rider255/P1040018.jpg
More to come too.
dubsupra209
12-10-2009, 01:27 AM
everything looks like its coming along...keep up the good build..... :evil2:
dslocal
12-15-2009, 12:31 AM
Thanks a lot.
I should have some updates coming up this weekend.
Its amazing how much better the engine bay looks with all those holes gone.
taysmehu
12-17-2009, 11:06 AM
Nice work:love:
dslocal
12-17-2009, 09:07 PM
Hey thanks, I'll have some more updates at the end of this weekend, The whole interior is painted and I'm getting lots of parts in the mail. hahaha
I also found out that santa drives a brown truck, not a red sleigh.:icon_bigg
stevenr816
01-21-2010, 11:02 PM
any updates?
that tube work is pretty interesting. its good, but mean interesting as in the rear tubes not going all the way to the rear. i like it
are these tubes welded together?
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b395/stevenr816/Untitled.jpg
dslocal
01-22-2010, 04:03 AM
yes those tubes are welded together. The shop I was working on my car in didn't have the mill in it to bevel the ends of the tube so I cut two pieces a little longer than I thought and took them back to my other shop and welded them together with our 300amp tig welder.
I have no doubt in the structural part of it however if I were to build it again I have the demensions to cut the tube in a straight piece so I wouldn't have to do that.
I didn't run those tubes all the way to the back because the amount of structural rigidity I would have gained was not important to me and also it would have been a pain in the ass to route them as close to the body as I wanted them.
So call me lazy but I am plenty happy with how it turned out.
dslocal
01-22-2010, 04:06 AM
I need to try to get some recent pics. I am expecting to have the car running really soon.
Unfortunately I am going to have to drop the 1j back in because of time restraints. (leaving for school feb. 10th and I really want to take my car)
So in two years or so I will be dissasembling it again for possibly a dry sump 3.4 2j and something crazy. I haven't decided yet. hahaha
dslocal
02-11-2010, 02:30 AM
Alright well heres a little update. Unfourtunately I didn't finish it in time to take it to school with me:nono:
I need to remake the mounts for the fuel rail and figure out why the stupid headlights won't work but here is what I've done with the engine bay.
What you think? Some day I would really like to reanodize all of the blue parts of the an fittings black... anyone ever done that?
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff232/honda450rider255/DSC02424.jpghttp://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff232/honda450rider255/DSC02427.jpghttp://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff232/honda450rider255/DSC02432.jpghttp://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff232/honda450rider255/DSC02430.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff232/honda450rider255/DSC02433.jpg
full 4" into twin 2.5"
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff232/honda450rider255/DSC02437.jpg
And where its going to sleep until I get to come home for a weekend or two
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff232/honda450rider255/DSC02446.jpg
I also turboed a honda civic last week that made 340 fwhp at 14 psi out of a stock b-16:biglaugh: (working on pictures)
honestabe
02-11-2010, 02:55 AM
Wow, that looks amazing. Interesting how you did the catch can.
SURUKO
02-11-2010, 11:50 AM
:yumyum: :boink: :drool: loving ur bay good work man
dslocal
02-12-2010, 01:27 PM
Thanks man
How is the catch can interesting?
92nsx
02-28-2010, 10:44 AM
Your engine bay looks bad ass man.
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