Oil Pan Removal?

[carter]

I'm about to replace the oil pan, because the one thats on the car has a hole in it. And I've been searching to see if i should get a actual gasket or if i should use FIPG to seal the oil pan and all that fun stuff.

And on top of that, I was wonderin what is the easiest way to replace the oil pan. From under the car:1zhelp:

[suprarx7nut]

You can remove the pan in car, but it requires a LARGE amount of work. If you have access to a cherry picker, I'd remove the engine/trans all together.

There is a sticky on a "redneck rod knock fix" or something to that effect.

Good luck, its not a small task by any means.

[David_Nguyen]

yep he's right...im doing it now lol

[MK3Supraman]

i followed the redneck rod knock fix and i did it pretty easy but it takes two days well for me by myself




*edit*
and im 16 with major tools lol

[Weeves]

Here's the link if you wanna take a look;
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38359&highlight=redneck+rodknock

[IJ.]

I'm about to replace the oil pan, because the one thats on the car has a hole in it. And I've been searching to see if i should get a actual gasket or if i should use FIPG to seal the oil pan and all that fun stuff.

And on top of that, I was wonderin what is the easiest way to replace the oil pan. From under the car:1zhelp:

3bond 1207b RTV > all

Personally I wouldn't do it under the car but that's just me.

[jdub]

/\ Me either ;)

Carter - the 3Bond IJ speaks of is available at motorcycle (Suzuki & Yamaha) dealers. Toyota FPIG is very good and have used Permatex The Right Stuff with excellent results.

[mkIIIman089]

I did it from under the car as per the TSRM, I didn't think it was all that bad. I find it pretty hard to believe it's easier to pull the entire engine to do it...

The 3Bond and Toyota FIPG are probably the best, but any FIPG designed to be used with oil/oil pans will be better than a cork gasket (Toyota never used any gasket AFAIK).

[Another MkIII]

I used Permatex. My kit had a cork gasket, but I had heard bad things about them and seeing as its a PITA to fix a pan gasket leak, I wanted to make sure it worked. I shall see if it leaks soon...as in about 3 hours from now.
-AM3

[IJ.]

/\ Me either ;)

Carter - the 3Bond IJ speaks of is available at motorcycle (Suzuki & Yamaha) dealers. Toyota FPIG is very good and have used Permatex The Right Stuff with excellent results.

Actually available at all motorcycle dealers as far as I know also skidoo dealers and it's at some parts stores labeled as 3bond, the others are all according to the dealer brand ie: HondaBond, YamaBond, SuziBond and so on.

Never used the Permatex but have tried just about everything else I could get my hands on and 3Bond rules :)

[jdub]

I've used The Right Stuff on several oil and tranny pans...Nada on any leaks.
It's convenience is it's in a pressurized can a lot like what you see with Cheeze Wiz...you push on the nozzle and a nice bead comes out.

[carter]

Alright thanks guys, I was just hoping that i could slide it out but i'm guess thats not the case. lol but oh well, I got the "right stuff" lol and i'm gonna do it tomorrow

This deff looks like a fun job lol but i'll see what i get into tomorrow. I just didn't wanna have to take off the tie rods and all that happy stuff.

[Zumtizzle]

Well if you could find new right stuff grey it would be ideal.

The Right Stuff Grey is more ideal.
http://www.permatex.com/documents/tds/Automotive/34310.pdf

It has a tensile strength of 3.4 N/mm^2 = 493 lb/in^2 Minimum.
Hardness of 60 Shore A. (See Fig 1. to get an idea of what this means.)
But has only an elongation rate of 175% at break.

Permatex Right Stuff Black
http://www.permatex.com/documents/tds/Automotive/33694.pdf

Has a Tensile Strength of 1.4 N/mm^2 = 203 lb/in^2 (PSI) Minimum
Hardness of 30+/-5 Shore A. (See Fig. 1)
Elongation Rate of 550% at Break.

http://www.machinist-materials.com/images/Hardnesscale.gif
Note, on the table below Durometer A and Durometer D is the same as Shore A and Shore D.


The "Right Stuff" is based on a loctite elastomeric rubber sealant.

[Zumtizzle]

With that said.

Preparation is key.

You can't go wrong with any of the sealants listed or stated.

Sumeet

[tsupranami]

Which is easiest to remove later, right stuff, fipg, or 3bond?

The shop that did my last motor used permatex right stuff and had a hell of a time getting the pan off. I used FIPG and the pan came off easily. The fipg also came off the pan and block pretty easily too.

Neither leaked a drop.

The permatex stuff is like glue, fipg is closer to silicone, AFAIK.

[Zumtizzle]

Which is easiest to remove later, right stuff, fipg, or 3bond?

The shop that did my last motor used permatex right stuff and had a hell of a time getting the pan off. I used FIPG and the pan came off easily. The fipg also came off the pan and block pretty easily too.

Neither leaked a drop.

The permatex stuff is like glue, fipg is closer to silicone, AFAIK.

None are fun to remove.

and theres different types of Toyota FIPG. (remember theres so many PN's.)

Toyota FIPG is ussualy made by Permatex or 3Bond.

If you look at Permatex Ultra Greys Technical Data sheet, you'll see toyota fipg PN's listed.) ;)

When i cracked my pan off for the first time it just didn't want to budge. I was afraid of bending the pan; and this is on 1990 Factory FIPG which is most likely a ThreeBond 1200 Series Product. (my guess is 1215 or 1207D)

As for removal.
http://shop.oreillyauto.com/product_images/img/crc/05021.jpg

CRC 05021

Or Standard Abrasives Gasket Remover Kit.

http://www.racepartsdirect.com/images/260005.jpg

OR.

Get your hands on one of 3M's "rubber bristle" 2" diameter discs. You'll need to buy the mandrel adapter for these so you can mount it in your die grinder or small disc sander or electric drill.

These are generally available at auto body paint supply shops or automotive stores, and come in 3 different "grits". Try using the fine or medium grade disc. They look like a disc faced with a lot of soft rubber "fingers". With a bit of care, the disc will chew right through the old gasket and leave the aluminum very clean without removing aluminum.

I think you'll find that many "pro's" in the automotive trade use these for surface prep as they work so well, are easy to control, and don't grind up the surfaces like the older abrasive surface conditioning sanding discs used to do, or wire brushes, etc.

The cost is nominal; about $10 for a very long lasting disc.*****

*****sunsprit @ alfabb.com

[IJ.]

Which is easiest to remove later, right stuff, fipg, or 3bond?

The shop that did my last motor used permatex right stuff and had a hell of a time getting the pan off. I used FIPG and the pan came off easily. The fipg also came off the pan and block pretty easily too.

Neither leaked a drop.

The permatex stuff is like glue, fipg is closer to silicone, AFAIK.

NOT 3Bond ;)