Wiring the 2jz into the ma70 chassis

Turbo Skegget

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#81
Here's something to think about if you don't want code 42 and the engine damage light turned on and I can't remember it being addressed earlier. You need the MKIV odometer/tripmeter wired in between ecu and speedometer.
 

ifyouaint1sturlast

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#82
Here's something to think about if you don't want code 42 and the engine damage light turned on and I can't remember it being addressed earlier. You need the MKIV odometer/tripmeter wired in between ecu and speedometer.
Is this Supra specific? I have the Aristo swap running and I have no codes or CEL ..
 

Turbo Skegget

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#83
It is 2jz-gte with v-160 specific. I'm not sure if there are any differencies between Europe, US, Japan Supras or auto. The odometer/tripmeter takes the speedsignal from the speedsensor on the gear box and transforms it and sends a signal to the ECU. Without this signal you get code 42 and CEL. Have you wired everything correct?
 

ifyouaint1sturlast

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#84
I replaced my mechanical speedo port for the electric speedo sensor and an MKIV speedometer.

I have also discovered a pin on the ABS computer that outputs the same signal and can be used to feed the ECU instead of replacing the speedo gear ..
 

ifyouaint1sturlast

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#86
Yepp me to, have a MKIV electric speedo in the MKIII combination meter. Replacing speedo gear??? I dont have ABS.
Ah well if you don't have ABS then it won't help you ;)

Basically I'm saying the ABS sensor is 20ppr however the ABS computer outputs a 4ppr signal for use by the ECU (you can use it to replace the signal coming from your dash/speedo cable)
 

MrOizo

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#87
It is 2jz-gte with v-160 specific. I'm not sure if there are any differencies between Europe, US, Japan Supras or auto. The odometer/tripmeter takes the speedsignal from the speedsensor on the gear box and transforms it and sends a signal to the ECU. Without this signal you get code 42 and CEL. Have you wired everything correct?
I have 2JZ and V160 in MKIII and never had Code 42. Thats on a JDM setup. Speedo was wired to Apexi RSM - may have had something go back to ECU. Cant remember now! Definitely didn't have odometer though
 

S.A. supra

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#88
Need some help on the write up t hat dingle posted on page 5.*I just need to verify that the c1 pin 4 runs to three different pins. That being e10 pins 31and32 also the b1 pin 9
 

Roger UK

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#91
I keep meaning to do a full write up of my 2JZ conversion (like a proper idiot's guide), as I found various other notes on various websites incomplete !

Including various other information that I couldn't find anywhere, like the Fan, Clutch Fork and Slave Cylinder, etc etc.

I went back to the wiring diagrams and spent about 40 hours sussing everything out, then made up my own adaptors in advance so it would be plug and play. (didn't want the car to be off the road for too long)

I actually did the engine swap and got it running with all instruments etc over a weekend!

Regarding the earlier post about the 2JZ ECU requiring a speed signal so that you don't get a fault light, it doesn't matter that the Mk3 speed signal is much slower - as long as it receives ANY speed signal the ECU is happy.
 

Bloodhail

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#92
Hey guys, I've got a question related to this. I've got a Mk. III with a 2JZGTE and R154 and all is well, however I can't rev past 4500 RPM no matter what. In gear or out, under boost or not, etc. The ECU being used is from an automatic Mk. IV, which is where I also got the engine. I'm using a custom harness made by Dr. Tweak. I've narrowed down my troubleshooting to the neutral park sensor / switch, however I can't pinpoint the issue. I've tried going through the pin diagrams for the ECU to chassis and while there's certainly pins regarding the NPS they don't seem to be occupied, as I'm sure Tweak wouldn't have needed them in his harness as he new the circumstances regarding my car.

I think I need to trick the ECU into thinking it's in drive so I can get past the neutral rev limiter but I'm not quite sure how - I have to depress the clutch to start the car so I know the neutral park switch situation is ok regarding that, however after starting could I set up a relay to make it think it's in drive?
 

Zazzn

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#94
IBoughtASupra is correct, and the system will work fine that way. It's the way it was designed to work with the 7M. Like the pinout says, connect pin 13 of B1 to pin 34 of E10.

However, the 2JZ ECU has the ability to deactivate the A/C clutch under full throttle conditions so that no power is parasitically being drawn off buy the A/C system at that time. And there is a way to wire that feature in to the MKIII, but I wanted to test it first, to be sure, before I put the information out there. Unless somebody else has done it and can comment on it.

Until then I would just connect it the way shown in the pinout above.
Hi All,

I'm visiting this after several years of not caring because of living in Canada. Now that i'm in California, is not a luxury, it's a must haha.

** update**
B1 13 from ac amp-> to E10 34. What does this do? B1 13 from defogger idle up signal -> E10 15.

What do the two pressure sensor AC comprssor wires go to if you are using the Aristo AC compressor? I'm guessing the aristo body connector the 1 or 2 that are not on E10 or E9?

Basically I have G and G/R and B/W wires from the actual compressor. The B/W is supposed to go to the 1 pin connector which has 2 blue wires going in to it just behind the battery under the fuse box. Where do the others go?
 
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Kckazdude

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#95
Having not gotten to this part of my build I haven't gotten my head 100% into the wiring yet. However, Dirgle referenced connector E10 pin 34, not A34 that you are asking about. Don't know if that was a typo or to many hours looking over diagrams.

Your compressor has a pressure sensor towards the bottom that should complete the ground circuit for the relay to engage the clutch. The other 2 wires are for the magnetic clutch.
 

Zazzn

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#98
Hi All,

2 Questions...

#1 what did you hook up the Headlight idle up "LP" from the 7M flying lead harness? Does this go to ELS as well as the defogger? I figure both will cause an idle up condition and they are both 12V grounded at the ECU according to the TEWD. Correct me if i'm wrong.

#2 on the AC
E10 Pin 23 ACMG , Air Conditioning (AC) Magnetic Clutch Relay, Output , This pin is used to turn the AC magnetic clutch relay ON and is a GROUND. ECU control of the AC enables the AC to be turned off during hard acceleration. This pin is Grounded by the ECU and should run to the GROUND on the AC Mag swtich wires. So of the two wires from the compressor magnetic switch one goes to the ECU pin 23 the other goes to constant 12V+ which is the 1 pin connector by the fuse box behind the battery.

Pin 34 - A/C , Air Conditioning (AC) Request Signal , Input , This pin is used to request that the AC be turned ON. Having an AC request input and a separate control output allows the engine ECU to turn the AC OFF under some conditions, such as hard acceleration. This pin is connected to battery voltage to request that the AC be turned ON. The AC request signal is usually generated by the climate control ECU or another name AC Amplifier, however connecting this pin to battery voltage will not guarantee that the AC is turned ON due to the conditions specified above. This should be connectd to B1 Pin 13.

Please correct me if i'm worong on any of these.
 
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Roger UK

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#99
My 2JZ-GE transplant into my 1991 Manual Supra is still running great !

Here in Britain there are a lot of imported Mk4 Supras . . . so I was able to find everything I needed from a crashed car - Not just a 2JZ with all Ancillaries, ECU and Loom from a Supra (which has the correct sump, etc), but also some Mk4 Body Plugs, so I could make up adapters to connect the leads into the Mk3 dash etc.

Adapting the wiring IS quite complicated (but I'm into electronics) . . . for example, some of the control signals are inverted, meaning they need +12V instead of a ground, or vice-versa, so you have to fit a Transistor inline to do that. I could never find a comprehensive write-up of everything to connect, so I figured it all out in advance by pouring over the Mk3 and Mk4 wiring diagrams.

Because of that, I did the whole transplant over a weekend, and had it all running on the Sunday evening !

The only bits I had to get from the USA were the Mounting Brackets, and an adapter pipe for the Oil Pressure Gauge sensor.

Personally, I saw no point in going for a Turbo engine, given the speed limits. My 2JZ-GE produces 250 bhp (as there's no Cats required), which is plenty for me (it'll do 150mph). That engine also bolts onto the existing W58 gearbox, again using the bellhousing from a crashed Mk4 Supra, and even uses the same clutch.

Other things I could find no info on, so only discovered when I did the swap (but guessed correctly) was the stock 2JZ-GE viscous fan DOES fit the Mk3 fan cowling - you just have to unclip the lower part when fitting the radiator, as the fan is wider. Also that you need a Clutch Fork from a Mk4 - the Mk3 one is different. Oh and the Mk4 ECU will JUST fit behind the glovebox, as long as you unbolt and saw off all the mounting brackets - it's a jam-in fit!

Also, the Mk4 doesn't have a proper Oil Cooler or Power Steering Fluid cooler . . . so I retained the ones in my Mk3 and plumbed them in.

I was also able to cut the plastic pipe on the end of the Mk4 air intake and bolt it to the original Mk3 Air filter, thereby keeping it all looking pretty stock and neat.

This is the fitted 2JZ-GE engine:

 
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