Window Not Closing

Abe's 1987

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#43
Your reading connectivity. You need to set to volts and read the power output of the connector to make sure it is getting power to the connector. And you would test the blue and white/black wires.
 

supranewb97

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#44
Oh, OK. Any way of accessing them that doesn't involve pulling off the door trim, and any hacks for getting the switch apart?
 

Abe's 1987

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#45
Remove speaker cover, remove pull handle, you will have access to the switches. Don't need to remove the whole door panel.

Only hack on disassemble of the switch is take it slow and remember everything so when reassembling you don't get stuck. And if prying any tabs go very very very genital as years and years of use they tend to get brittle.
 

supranewb97

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#46
I asked about this on another forum, and they suggested changing the wiring around to bypass the switch. How do I do that?
 

Abe's 1987

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#47
So if you tested the power to the connector and it is getting power I would either trying fixing the switch you have or go to ebay and buy another switch. Fixing the current switch would be taking it apart and cleaning it and making sure there is nothing broken internally. Bypassing it is more of a pain then fixing it or replacing it with another one.
 

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#48
So if you tested the power to the connector and it is getting power I would either trying fixing the switch you have or go to ebay and buy another switch. Fixing the current switch would be taking it apart and cleaning it and making sure there is nothing broken internally. Bypassing it is more of a pain then fixing it or replacing it with another one.
Got you man. I still have the switch partially disassembled, and I plan to get to the rest of it this weekend, when my brother will be in town, at which time we'll give the washer pump a go; while I'm at it, what's the going rate for a new switch?
 

Abe's 1987

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#49
On ebay I'm seeing the driver side switch from $50 to $160 and passenger side from $20 to $160. But they are used. Dont think you can get them new anymore. I will have to check.
 

plaaya69

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#50

supranewb97

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#53
The driver's side switch is ok; I'm trying to sort out the passenger's side. While I'm at it, whenever I push the switch to lower the window, regardless of side, there's a "click-click" sound from the door, but when i press it to go up, I get nothing. Any explanations?
 

Abe's 1987

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#54
Well the passenger side could be affected by the driver switch as the passenger switch is controlled by the driver switch. I would clean both switches if I were you.

And the clicking could mean you may need more grease on the regulator.
 

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#55
I'm gonna give the switch a go today. If possible, over the weekend, I'll look at the driver's side. If neither of those work, I'll buy a new switch for the passenger's side. And if none of that works, what do I do next?
 

Abe's 1987

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#56
Question did you test the connector that goes to the switches? Are they getting power?

Also using the connector itself with two small pieces of wire you can test to see if the window motor is good. I'm out of town right now but when I get back on Monday I can show you pictures of how to test power and motor.
 

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#60
Ok the fuse is good then because they are both on the same fuse. Next check the connector is getting good power and ground. I'll try to post some pics on how to do it tomorrow.
 

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#62
Sorry buddy I got home late and it was raining so I wasn't able to get to those photos. I will have them for you tomorrow!
 

Abe's 1987

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#64
Ok here we go. First turn key to on position. It would probably be best to start the car.

First remove these by prying them off carefully.
20180619_181413-1920x1080.jpg

Next take these four screws out Philips-head screws.
20180619_181444-1920x1080.jpg

Now you have access to the plug.
20180619_180038.jpg

Next set your multimeter to the volts reading as mine is set to.
20180619_181127.jpg

Unplug the switch and test to check if there is power to the plug. There is one power and two ground pins. Power is blue and the grounds are blue/yellow and blue/black. Test as shown on the next two pictures.
20180619_180319.jpg

20180619_180350.jpg

Remember if you turned on the car the volt readings will be higher as the alternator produces more volts through all the systems. I got this readings with the key in the on position and engine off.
20180619_180324.jpg

Now to test that the motor works use two pieces of wires and insert them as shown in the two next pictures. Be careful when doing this test. This way will roll the window up.
20180619_180744.jpg

This way will roll the window down.
20180619_180839.jpg

If both these tests comes out good it is your switch/switches that is bad or needs to be clean.

Let use know how it goes.
 
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#65
Thanks, man. I'll be trying it tomorrow. Anyways, my brother took the switch apart. How does that metal bit below the actual switch go back in?
 

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#68
I tried the electrical wire thing, and it didn't work. Either I'm using too big a gauge of wire, or there's something else wrong. What else could it be?
 

Abe's 1987

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#69
Ok so the multimeter should be set to this to test volts

20180623_182612-1689x3000.jpg

This is how the metal pieces on the switch should be in

20180623_221542.jpg

And I used a 18 gauge wire to roll window up and down.

Test the volts to the plug first to make sure the plug is getting power.
 

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#72
Oh, OK. And as for the switch, I noticed yours had two of the metal things on it. I'm going to see if mine has another. If not, what should I do?
 

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#74
Whoops pi is right I circled the wrong setting. And if you are missing the other metal piece you should get another one or another switch.
 

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#76
So I tested it with the multimeter, both ground wires, and got 12.3 volts out of the plug. Can we safely say that there's power going to the thing?
 

Abe's 1987

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#77
Ok good means you are getting power to the plug. Next step test the window motor through the plug. As I showed in the last two pics up in my post try it again and see if the window goes up and down. I used 18 gauge wire I got from the auto part store. And I'm not sure if you can even get the metal pieces, most likely you would have to get a new or used switch.