if you are just going the PNP route then all you need is
- run a vacuum line to the standalone
- install a GM style air intake temp sensor
- install a Bosch 4.2 wideband and make a harness to the ecu as the OEM o2 sensor is no longer needed. I bought a new bosh 4.2 o2 male sensor connector and made my own small harness.
Personally I recommend you double check your PNP harness pins on both ends with a multi-meter as others had problems with pins in the wrong spot. Also others such as myself included have had problems with getting the fuel pump to turn on so you will most likely need to mess around with that.
Do you plan on keeping the batch fired injectors or do you plan on going sequential injection? Also what fuel injectors are you going to be running? One last thing, have you downloaded the EMU tuning software and messed around with it?
I have the wideband sensor already installed going to my lc1, plan to use the sensor and i bought the connector like you did and will make a harness for it to the ecu. I have the gm temp sensor and a vacuum line already since i was running on the DET3.
I will go through the pnp adapter and make sure everything is where it should be.
do you know what the issue was with the fuel pump? ive seen some people talk about the COR not being activated but I havent found anything talking about how they fixed it. Maybe they ran a jumper wire from the fuel pump to the COR output on the wiring?
I currently have the EVO 560cc injectors that are low-z I plan to run these for now as i have other projects needing attension on the car. then i plan to buy some 1000cc injectors like some from ID or FIC and I bought a fly lead harness with my PNP adpater and will build a totally new harness for the engine. as I also have the VVTI crank sensor to wire in.
I believe the fuel pump issue it has to do with the gray pin 5 and the settings on your map. I know someone else ran a on/off switch to turn on the fuel pump manually but I am still messing around with the EMU unit myself since I am rebuilding a new engine harness from scratch and in the final stage of getting that done.
figured it out. the fuel pump relay controls the fuel pump resistor. To get the fuel pump to work you need to run the aux output to the FC pin (circuit opening relay) The base map i got has Aux 3 output as the fuel pump so thats what i wired the COR to. Hope it works havent installed the EMU yet tho.
I just got my car tuned with an ecumaster stand-alone i purchased off driftmotion
Aeromotive 340LPH fuel pump (resistor needs to be removed to get full voltage at pump)
GM IAT 2 wire sensor
6x 540CC mr2 red top injectors (almost drop in just the tabs need to ground/cut off sides)
63mm turbo, 85% duty is 397 RWHP, 435 @ 93% injector duty but fuel pressure cranked up on both (50+)
base map is on ecumasters website but I let my tuner take care of this.
I cant get mine to run worth a crap, stock ecu seems to run decent with the fuel pressure turned down, put the emu back in and it wont idle, will not rev and ive adjusted about everything and nothing makes a difference.
I know it's super frustrating GreenChevellSS and I was in the same boat as you but start again with the basics
-Test all fuel injectors to make sure they are working
-Test for spark and verify at each spark plug
-Make sure your timing is synced up to the ECU
-Verify timing is correct with a timing light
-Test other various outputs you can to make sure they are working like they should such as the ISC (will hear a small clicking when testing)
For me the ignition firing order, fuel injection order and syncing the timing was a issue but I am running wasted spark ignition and sequential injection. What fuel psi are you running at idle?
is your fuel pump running at 12V? you have to bypass the resistor in our cars to get full voltage. the ecumasters website has a base map but with bigger injectors you'll need to play around with it. your set up sounds close to mine tbh
Running around 40psi at idle fuel pressure, I dont have the resistor or fuel pump relay anymore just the COR and the pump is ran off 10 gauge wire and a relay so its def getting 12v.
Im so fed up with it, I just dont understand. I would literally pay someone to talk me through and help me get this thing to run correctly.
im to the point of pulling the 2jz selling everything and putting a stock 7m back in it just to sell it cut my losses.
OK, update found the Idle REF table which changes the DC% of the IAC with ECT. Ive played with it to get it around 800rpm (my target is 700 and it was 400-500 before i found this table) Its much better now if i could get the other issues figured out. I keep getting WBO on the CEL every 30 sec or so, Ive checked the wiring multiple times and replaced the sensor already, same results.
I had my tuner set it all up for me. The stock CPS sensor in the right position for the OEM computer ran perfect but once I switched over to the ECU Masters, it needed to have the timing synced as it was off for the standalone and running poorly. Are you on the ecu master forums?
You might get some good answers from people there as well but in the end a good tuner should be knowledgeable to set everything up right once you have everything you want wired-in, configured and then tested your outputs.