What Years Have the Hatch Release Cable Block Coupler?

suprarx7nut

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I know there are at least two varieties of hatch cables in the mk3, but I'm unsure if there are more and what the year cut-offs are. Does anyone know? Please share your style and year if you know it!

Type A:
Looks like this and is from my 91. I assume it's all 91/92 models.
DSC_0031720.jpg

Type B:
Looks like this and I believe is from 89-90...
DSC_0032720.jpg

I'm unsure if my years above are correct and am unsure if there were other varieties. I would love some feedback from the community to identify what styles there are out there.

Here are some shots showing the layout of the cable with "Type A" coupler in the 91 I have.
Hatch Cable Block Location 1.JPG Hatch Cable Block Location 2.JPG

THANKS!
 

Old Radar

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For the crowd--

I contacted Andy a few weeks back seeking his solution to my stretched cable. After exchanging several PMs and pictures, we realized that my Supra, manufactured in January '89, doesn't have a cable connector box like his. Mine has two separate cables--one from the lever under the driver's seat and a completely separate, independent, cable from the rear hatch key. They both connect to separate brackets on the release lever. I interject this here to save unnecessary digging if you find you have two cables going to separate brackets and don't readily see a connector box; and to find out when in the manufacturing timeline Toyota changed the design.

For those of you who do have a connector box, Andy has a pretty elegant solution.

Here is what my set up looks like to compare with Andy's above.

Hatchback Latch.jpg
 
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3p141592654

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For those with the 89-90 style, if you crimp a lead fishing weight around the end of the cable you can compensate for the stretch and get your hatch release working again.
 
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Koenigturbo

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I own a 90, it looks like the one pictured on top. Since I'm here where does this mount? To the left of the lock on the black flat plate?
 

Bmettie

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Yea older models didn't have the ability to disable the hatch release from the drivers lever(dual cables), later models(single cable) could use the key lock to disable the hatch release from the drivers lever.
Yea a lead fishing weight also worked for me. Also the second cable connection is still there on the latch itself, and is a perfect spot to add a actuator to pop the hatch. I did that as well, lock/unlock box with remote pop. I then broke the cable because the cable actually turns the back of the rear lock(disable feature) then another cable pops the hatch so the 2 cables got tight. I then added a limit switch to the drivers lever and ran a wire to only use the actuator to pop the hatch.
 

suprarx7nut

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I own a 90, it looks like the one pictured on top. Since I'm here where does this mount? To the left of the lock on the black flat plate?
The block on my 91 just laid alongside the wiring in that area. I don't see any broken mounting tabs so I think it was just intended to lay there.
 

suprarx7nut

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For those with the 89-90 style, if you crimp a lead fishing weight around the end of the cable you can compensate for the stretch and get your hatch release working again.
Do you mean for @Old Radar 's style? I think that's actually the pre-89 style and his is just an early 89 with pre-89 parts. With that style, I agree the crimped lead or some other spacer are what you need.
 

3p141592654

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No, I did it for the 89-90 style.

The first time I had this problem I bought a new short section of cable with the coupler.

The second time I used the fishing weight.
 
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suprarx7nut

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Note that I replaced that cable about 10 years ago. So it may not reflect the original one installed in 1990.
Ah, that makes total sense now. I think the 91-92 cable with the flip lid replaced the 89-90 style with just a block and no lid.

Here's my current understanding:
Type A: 91-92. Block with a lid. Part 64607-14310
Type B: 89-90. Block with no lid and no nubs for lid. Part 64607-14290
Type C: 86-89. No block at all - one continuous cable from driver lever to latch. Part 64607-14220
 

BigKO

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Does anyone know the part numbers for the cables themselves? The plastic terminals at the end of the cables that allow it fit into actuator slots are broken. Zip ties may work I suppose.
 

suprarx7nut

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Does anyone know the part numbers for the cables themselves? The plastic terminals at the end of the cables that allow it fit into actuator slots are broken. Zip ties may work I suppose.
I think the cable part ends at the steel balls of the cable. If your plastic pieces are broken, I suspect that's a different part number.

Here's the diagram for a 91.

1579622947424.png
 

BigKO

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I think the cable part ends at the steel balls of the cable. If your plastic pieces are broken, I suspect that's a different part number.

Here's the diagram for a 91.

View attachment 82693
Thanks! The plastic bit I was referring to is the red piece that holds it in the slot before the steel ball.

I went to my local dealer yesterday to see if they could order the cables and the don't have any.
 

suprarx7nut

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Thanks! The plastic bit I was referring to is the red piece that holds it in the slot before the steel ball.

I went to my local dealer yesterday to see if they could order the cables and the don't have any.
Hmm, that sounds like a perfect printing opportunity for my material. I can vaguely recall what you're talking about. Happen to have a pic?
 

BigKO

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Hmm, that sounds like a perfect printing opportunity for my material. I can vaguely recall what you're talking about. Happen to have a pic?
Yeah I'm referring to the red plastic piece in the picture posted earlier in this thread by 3p (post #10). You can see where the cable attaches to the latch actuator.

I suppose crimp removal and reattachment will need to be figured out too.
 

suprarx7nut

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Yeah I'm referring to the red plastic piece in the picture posted earlier in this thread by 3p (post #10). You can see where the cable attaches to the latch actuator.

I suppose crimp removal and reattachment will need to be figured out too.
Ah, ok. I need to see what's inside there and how it clamps to the cable (or perhaps how it breaks). I think there's a solution there without a metal crimp.
 

BigKO

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Ah, ok. I need to see what's inside there and how it clamps to the cable (or perhaps how it breaks). I think there's a solution there without a metal crimp.
Yeah I can get some updated pics of where it's broken and a close up of the crimp to get you a better idea. I'll try to post them tonight
 
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BigKO

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Ah, ok. There could be a one-off fix in 3D printing for that, but probably not a universal fix for everyone. What a pain, sorry!
Yeah, I tore it down and saw that masterpiece and had a moment. The hatch release handle has never worked, and the key was iffy at best. They key finally stopped working and now I know the cause of both.

I imagine it's a pretty common occurrence for these to break.

Looking for second hand cables now...