What did you do to your supra today? Pics

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The Magnificent Seven
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To continue Piratetip's "practice welding" theme, I'll share the finished HKS exhaust. I will never weld another HKS muffler again, at least not til next weekend. The casing was super thin sheet over slightly heavier, so once the pool formed the surface tension would suck it back and reveal the second layer full of mill scale and carbon. I tried TIG, but it was slow going and used a ton of shielding gas and hated the dirty metal. I tried MIG, but couldn't get a reliable arc with the low WFS I had to use to keep from blowing through. I settled on sloppy, dirty, tolerant oxy-acetylene - a size 0 torch tip and 1/16 filler for welding the perf tubes (worked beautifully so even though I'm not a pro, I'm not a complete moron) but had to size up to 3/32 filler when welding the casing just to cool the puddle enough to not lose it. Even then it was frustrating and slow-going. I finally got everything closed and since it was going to be hidden til the rest of it rusts away, I threw the last bit of VHT silver I had on the bare metal and parts that'll show. The rest of the exhaust had some kind of ceramic coating that held up remarkably well to 25 years under the car and then torch heat.









 

Piratetip

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Yeah that sounds like a PITA.
Good work.

Contaminated thin metal is very difficult to weld at all.
The 2nd layer contaminating the weld is a bust for TIG.
 
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Abe's 1987

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I bought myself a mig welder ahwile ago but never did learn how to use it. I tried it without gas for the first time aka wire with flux core but hated the mess it left behind. A buddy of mine here in houston said he would help me set up the gas and help teach me but both of us got really busy. Will eventually get that welder out and learn one of these days.
 

Piratetip

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AC TIG, Argon Shielding Gas

In addition I am going to have to use the Pulse settings as well with this one.

The amperage is going to be well below 10A.
 

Clip

The Magnificent Seven
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I thought about going back with continuous and new stainless mesh packing, but when I opened it up I found I could reuse the stainless. So I just made new perf tubes and cleaned out all the old mess, then repacked with the original HKS mineral wool. A lot cheaper that way, and even when the old perf tubes degraded I never lost any wool.

It sounds just like I remember it when it was new (to me) - quiet above 2k and a nice deep drone below. And now I don't have the annoying leaks out the elbows and flanges.

Side note - anyone need a RS*R Invidia exhaust? :D


 

3p141592654

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To continue Piratetip's "practice welding" theme, I'll share the finished HKS exhaust. I will never weld another HKS muffler again, at least not til next weekend. The casing was super thin sheet over slightly heavier, so once the pool formed the surface tension would suck it back and reveal the second layer full of mill scale and carbon. I tried TIG, but it was slow going and used a ton of shielding gas and hated the dirty metal. I tried MIG, but couldn't get a reliable arc with the low WFS I had to use to keep from blowing through. I settled on sloppy, dirty, tolerant oxy-acetylene - a size 0 torch tip and 1/16 filler for welding the perf tubes (worked beautifully so even though I'm not a pro, I'm not a complete moron) but had to size up to 3/32 filler when welding the casing just to cool the puddle enough to not lose it. Even then it was frustrating and slow-going. I finally got everything closed and since it was going to be hidden til the rest of it rusts away, I threw the last bit of VHT silver I had on the bare metal and parts that'll show. The rest of the exhaust had some kind of ceramic coating that held up remarkably well to 25 years under the car and then torch heat.
Wow. I salute this effort. I have never heard of anyone repairing a muffler before.
 
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Clip

The Magnificent Seven
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Wow. I salute this effort. I have never heard of anyone repairing a muffler before.
I figure I had about 35 hours of work in it, with replacing the elbows, rewelding the braces and cutting and forming new tubes to opening and closing both resonators and the muffler. Looking back it was crazy to do but the exhaust was unique enough I wanted to save it.
 

Piratetip

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Seems reasonable to me.
I've done crazier things.

How does the exhaust sound?
 

Clip

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Sounds great, I'll have to get a video similar to the one I took when it was behind the GE and unrepaired.
 

Z06gette

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A couple weeks back I popped off an intercooler boot and didn’t have time or a rack available to re do the plumbing. So I ran it over the front radiator crash support with no hood....
My hood is with the fabricator having a 2015ish camaro SS vent put in... should look great and vent the engine well.
Also, installed a 2 gauge pod above the after market radio. This spot was a black hole from the P.O.
It’s a work in progress. But now that the motor is built and making good (but unfinished power) it’s time to start on the cosmetic touch ups and redo’s.
Lastly, time to dump the break in oil and go to the good stuff
 

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I'm interested to see how the hood turns out.

After one entire month of waiting for this thing (spent 14 days two hours away from me at the USPS distribution facility) it finally showed up - a Lo-Tek dual gauge pod. Now I can get these installed.

 

Clip

The Magnificent Seven
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Got it half done. Pillar pod sanded to fit nicely, got all the lines and wires run for the gauges. Tomorrow I've got to pick up a small brass tee, mount the solenoid and get all the vacuum lines plumbed. Then just have to make the final connections to the add-a-circuit, find a ground and reassemble.

Looking back I probably could have run these without taking the gauge cluster and everything out but I had to remove the lighting circuit for the old gauge, which I had inconveniently run the same exact way.



 
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trofimovich

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Got it half done. Pillar pod sanded to fit nicely, got all the lines and wires run for the gauges. Tomorrow I've got to pick up a small brass tee, mount the solenoid and get all the vacuum lines plumbed. Then just have to make the final connections to the add-a-circuit, find a ground and reassemble.

Looking back I probably could have run these without taking the gauge cluster and everything out but I had to remove the lighting circuit for the old gauge, which I had inconveniently run the same exact way.
Is it hot there? The dashboard is all cracked. I see it on many cars. Are they stored outside?
 

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Is it hot there? The dashboard is all cracked. I see it on many cars. Are they stored outside?
This one has lived the past ten years outside, and with summer temperatures at 95F/35C it gets very hot inside. I've tried to keep a reflector on the windshield but it's time to replace it.
 

alcyon

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This one has lived the past ten years outside, and with summer temperatures at 95F/35C it gets very hot inside. I've tried to keep a reflector on the windshield but it's time to replace it.
Be careful, in my experience if the left out in the heat like that, your windshield rubber seals would have dry rotted and will let water seep through, causing rust.
 
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The Magnificent Seven
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Thanks for the heads up! Ive driven it frequently in that time until the past two years or so, and there's a fine powder coating of orange iron oxide on most of the dash subframe and other bare metal. The windshield has been replaced in the past but I'm not sure about the seal condition. Surprisingly, the Supra still takes on no water during rains. Can't say the same for my 2011 BMW.
 

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Everything is back together, including the glovebox which had been left out til I could run these wires. Happy with it, all the cables tucked nicely behind the dash or in wire loom under the hood. Also made a little bracket to mount the solenoid up near the intake so it'll hopefully stay cooler. I actually found M3 nylock nuts for it too, which surprised me.



 

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Ok, after all that quality work I have to admit this. I did something dirty today, cutting corners that I've probably chastised others for in the past.

After last night's test drive seeing AFRs of 10-10.5 at WOT and hitting fuel cut at a peak boost of 10.4psi, I tested the wastegate opening pressure at 7.5 psi then took the dive. I installed the Lexus AFM on the completely stock fuel system. The Aeromotive FPR, Walbro 255 and Precision 550s are sitting in the garage (about to ship the injectors out for a Precision clean/flow test) but I couldn't take it any more. So I threw the bigger AFM on, warmed it up well and did a few WOT runs through 3rd and 4th gears. My AFRs were 11.3-11.5 with the pedal buried and I turned the duty cycle up in stages to about 35%. Peak boost reached 12.7 psi and I decided to call it quits for today, turning it back down to max out around 11.5 psi. I'm going to keep an eye on the AFRs for a few days while I play around with the wastegate opening pressure and peak boost. Main goal was to be able to give it WOT and focus on passing on a 2 lane instead of trying to keep one eye on the boost gauge and feather the throttle to stay under fuel cut.

Amazing how good the car feels when it's not running so rich and fuel cut doesn't pull the rug out from under me.
 

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The AFPR mount is the Driftmotion mount flipped over, bent so the regulator sits upright and painted black to match other mount I made. That one is a 1" flat bar drilled at one side for the shock mount, the other side is slightly oversized 1/8 NPT so the gauge bottoms out and still gives enough room to thread the elbow on the bottom. Let me know if you need one.

 

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The question of margin was eating at me after the Lexus AFM install, so I measured Vf and saw 5V. I reinstalled the stock AFM, set base fuel pressure to TSRM specs, reset learned values with the EFI fuse and drove it around on my usual Sunday trip to get groceries, etc. Tested Vf after it was warmed up and "fine-tuned" the fuel pressure to get it at 2.5V. Everything went smoothly with AFRs reading low 10s to low 11s (fuel cut around 10 psi, cool morning)

After I got back, I fired up the lathe and went to work extending the screw 3/4" (1/2-3/4" range given on the forums for the original Reg/SONIC screw - very wide range there). A few hours later I had this installed and ready for another cruise. Pulled EFI again, set base fuel pressure to around 25% over stock, then adjusted while watching AFRs and Vf to bring both back to stoich and 2.5V. Went for a nice long cruise with several good pulls and watched AFRs sit in the low 11s, maxing out around 11.8:1 and Vfs measured at 3.75V when I returned home (fuel cut around 12 psi, warmer afternoon).

TL;DR: Yesterday I was on the lean side of safe with no margin, today I'm back towards the center with another couple pounds of boost.

1/4-20 thread with red threadlocker, because a 1/2x3/4 chunk of CRS would do some serious damage if it got loose.


 
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3p141592654

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Got the MK4 denso fuel pump mounted to a brand new MK3 fuel hanger. Possibly the last one in existence, although I suspect there are a few more stashed away in people's workshops. The MK4 pump uses the exact same housing (191300) as the stock MK3 pump so it is a perfect fit.

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Also have a brand new tank vent that will be going in.

IMG_9661s.JPG
 

JDMMA70

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Those MK4 TT pumps are current hogs, I had to do the 12V rewire to take advantage of the pump. On the bright side, its still quiet even with 12V
 

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I love seeing NOS parts. You guys have me flip-flopping on the Walbro 255 now though, as I was planning on the relay rewire anyway.
 

JDMMA70

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Grabbed some stuff at the salvage yard for my other supra project. Namely the radiator support brackets. The car they came off of was pretty rusty. All I'm missing now for the interior of the other car, are maroon window switch covers, and a maroon glove box. Hopefully Ill be able to find those without too much issue. Going to be repairing the dash in the spring, unless I find a mint maroon dash.

For now however, doing a bit of rust removal from these brackets before I either paint them or have them powder coated. Soaking them in acid to dissolve the rust.

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Clip

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Shipped the injectors back to Precision for a rebuild and flow test, ordered some more fuel system stuff thanks to 3p and the forum.

Somehow I went from having no fuel pumps to three: a Walbro 255, a Deatschwerks DW200 and my preference, the mk4 Denso. Dropping the tank sometime next week.