What did you do to your supra today? Pics

Clip

The Magnificent Seven
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Looks really sweet! I removed my charcoal canister in 07, but I'd like to add it back in. I'll be sure to keep my eyes peeled for one from the older 4Runners. Great work!

-Nick
While I was working on getting the downpipe and compressor housing back together I didn't realize just how much gas vapor the canister sees. Had to stop working and go to the store for some more fuel line to hook it up since the fumes were awful. Glad I went to the trouble of relocating mine.

Also, if you do find the can make sure to grab the bracket that goes with it. The 4R bracket puts it at a slight angle that sits nicely behind the wheel well but I think the old pickup bracket might sit a little straighter, from what I saw in the junkyard after I pulled mine. Either way, provides enough clearance for the gas arms on the hood to close.
 
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Clip

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Well second-guessed myself enough that I ended up sending the Innovate SCG-1 back and ordering an AEM X-series UEGO and their Tru Boost controller, plus a Lotek pillar pod. While driving last night I realized I use the needle sweep in the corner of my vision a lot more than the specific value. Combine that with me wanting something that's not blindingly bright at night and the auto-dimming red display with green sweep should perform a lot better than multiple numbers on a white display. Luckily I can still make use of the HBX I welded to the downpipe over the weekend.
 
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Abe's 1987

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Nice looking diff!

Finally got everything back together. An easy switch to the 4Runner can, then I test-fit the Innovate HXB-1 to the downpipe since the bung wasn't 24" downstream from the turbo outlet. Like an idiot, I didn't put anti-seize on and it locked down tight, luckily very close to the index mark that locates the inlet of the spacer. The impact gun couldn't back it out, the ratchet and breaker bar budged it enough to index it. So the rotary tool came out, cut off the brass crush washer and seal-welded with stainless rod. Now it won't move, and I remembered to put a coat of anti-seize on the plug while I collect the electrical to install the SCG-1. Also put on the old test pipe while the downpipe was out while I'm waiting for the high-flow cat.

To finish it off, I went to put on the undercover and found that the hot side intake pipe was too low, and starting to wear a little where the sway bar was rubbing on it. Had to take the compressor housing off to remove the roll pin, then clocked it and reinserted the snap ring. Finally got the new undercover on after that, still have to pick up a few longer M6 bolts to make some room for the oil thermostat and the larger piping.







Kinda sucks you can't really see much of the awesome paint job you did on the block.
 

Clip

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Does the 4 runner charcoal canister have a 2psi check valve?
My mouth isn't calibrated but I did try to blow back through the purge connection (so flow would go purge to tank) and wasn't able to flow any air. I took this to mean the canister would be ok under boost. As for keeping the tank under pressure to assist the fuel pump, I'm hoping that Toyota used the same design basis during those years for all of their in-tank pumps.
 

TravisTracer

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"The car's brakes were having problems, so it took me the whole morning to fix it. And have just installed a set of tires every season from michelin at the beginning of the week"
Same here. I'm also going to install a set of Michelin tires tomorrow. I've heard so many positive reviews about this particular tire brand, so I pulled the trigger and bought a whole set from 4WheelOnline last week.
 
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Clip

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I've been very impressed with the Pilot Sport A/S 3+ on the 5 series, but also had good luck with Kumho's summer performance tires on the Supra and Hankook/Kumho a/s performance on the IS. I'm hoping the current Kumhos hold out on the Supra til next spring and replace wheels and tires together.
 

Clip

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Well, with a little over 400 miles on the rebuild I decided to push the pedal a little more and found fuel cut at 10-11 psi in 3rd gear. Stock CT26 (as far as I'm aware), full 3" exhaust and the 2.5" IC piping/Treadstone IC.

Yes, I know I should behave...but I just had to try it.
 
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Clip

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Played A/C tech for the first time last night. Today, went to the junkyard and pulled the Lexus AFM housing that I'd been looking at for weeks (hadn't pulled it since it was missing the sensor and finally confirmed the housings share the same sensor). This afternoon I dusted off the 99k mi 3.73 LSD and took a peek inside the fill hole. Everything looked clean, no weird contact pattern I could see on the ring gear. Looked like the driver side shaft was a little oily so called up Toyota and ordered two seals and snap rings to replace tomorrow. I seem to remember some oil pouring out when I loosened the half shaft but it's been a while since I pulled this, are there any other seals that would be contributors to that pocket filling with oil?



 

JDMMA70

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May you enjoy your super cold AC, I gotta say from that angle, the CX racing pipes dont look that bad.
 
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Piratetip

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I've got a new O2 sensor on order as well as a higher temp rated cold start switch. 35C
Replaced the cold start connector today, found more corroded wires.
No surprise there...
 

Clip

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Changed the oil at 500 miles, ready to run to 1500. Noticed some oil drips under the water neck/coolant line areA, I'll have to check it out when I retorque. Replaced side shaft seals and swapped my 4.30 LSD for a 3.73 LSD, what a job that was. First drive with the replacement was very smooth and a lot quieter than the old one. While I was under there I discovered where the fuel filter was hiding, and used the replacement I bought back in 2008. I'm amazed I kept up with it for 12 years.



 
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JustAnotherVictim

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I've got a new O2 sensor on order as well as a higher temp rated cold start switch. 35C
Replaced the cold start connector today, found more corroded wires.
No surprise there...
I'm waiting for my harness to be rebuilt right now. No supra driving for this guy. :(
 

Piratetip

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Higher temp cold start switch (35C) and new O2 sensor (NTN) in today.
Install tonight, check startup tomorrow morning when its 7C.

Hoping for a quick cold start and lots of fast O2 cross-counts on the drive to work. :)
 
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Clip

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Tell me about that O2 sensor. My Denso had the two-hole flange for the turbo elbow. Good luck with the cold start.
 

Piratetip

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Yeah just thread back into the 2 hole flange.
This one came with another 2 hole flange as well, but I like my thicker old one better.

Well this morning was a success, cold start was quick and uneventful in a good way.
No long cranking times required anymore.

New O2 sensor is also operating normally, very fast O2 cross-counts now! Woo.

Time to start fixing the over aggressive timing map areas :)
 
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tissimo

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I fixed my rear brake that fell off. The slider pin bolt backed out.
1601735636251.png

I guess the slider got seized and it vibrated out over time? The car sat for 3 years before and put about 4k miles on it since getting it running again. Removing the slider was a pita without destroying it. Threaded a nut on the bolt with a washer and used a crows foot and extension to beat it out. Cleaned up and greased up and ready to roll again. Don't worry, It did have a boot on it, I removed it and put in my toolbox while trying to repair on the side of the road.
1601735621683.png

Also pressed out the rear lower control arm bushings at the knuckle and replaced those. They had a bit of slop in them. The rear end seems way more solid now.
1601735753491.png

So had to test it out and make sure everything was good with a little 2nd gear rolling anti-lag hit.
 
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MarkIII4Me

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What did you mean by "TMS Harness Bar is dangerous"? I've ran mine for years without issue. Haven't wrecked tho. Can you elaborate?
 

JDMMA70

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Drove my car today, wishing it was tuned. Even with decent AFR the car feels so gutless with 11 degrees of timing at wot. Cant wait to fit the 950cc injectors, have the leaky valve guide replaced, and the car tuned. The 20G sounds so nice in boost.
 

Piratetip

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So aluminum welding actually isn't that hard.
I finally dialed in some good settings on my machine, and overall went smooth.
Just some scrap aluminum door trim from house remodel lying around.
By the 3rd practice bead I think it looks pretty good.
Have to move faster than steel, and takes quite a lot of heat.
But some of that is due to the A/C cleaning action dumping a portion of the heat into the tungsten.

Lots of shrinkage I noticed, have to feed one last dab of filler before you end the arc.
Otherwise a crater develops due to the shrinkage, just like candle wax.

Aluminum must be perfectly clean though and just wire wheeled or brushed clean. Acetone wipe helps too. Have to remove as much of the initial oxide as possible.

This will be good, as I need to make new intercooler piping/brackets ect...



 

andrew_mx83

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Great start!
Prep is key with ally TIG.
Have a dedicated wire brush, never let it touch steel and use it before every weld, followed by acetone.
Its amazing how much difference good prep makes, 90% of your problems will disappear. Far more critical than steel TIG.
 

Clip

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What machine do you have? I’ve been looking at the Everlast and HF Vulcan cheapest AC setups for the stuff I’d be playing with. I’ve heard it’s harder to see the puddle, haven’t tried it.
 

trofimovich

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TIG is a good thing to do. There are many useful parts that can be done.
For example a copy of the oil sump .)
Or fan shroud .
And others.
 

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Piratetip

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Agreed.
Prep it right, and it's really pretty easy.
I noticed right away when I started getting closer to areas that were not cleaned.
Arc sputtered, black contaminates started going everywhere.
Steel is much more forgiving, but not too bad overall.

I use an Alpha TIG 200x, big bottle of Argon usually around 15 cfh flow, gas lens torch.
Wired my garage with a 150A dedicated circuit and panel.
So the welder gets 240V and as much power as I can give it. 60A breaker IIRC.
Sometimes I bottom the pedal out when welding really thick steel. But not often, only have an air cooled torch.
Overall have been really impressed with this welder.
It's limiting factor had always been me.
I probably have something like 1,800$ into the setup.
I've went through 3 bottles of 125 Cf argon already.
 

Piratetip

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The puddle is actually quite easy to read with aluminum.
It has a different behavior than steel, but you get used to it.
If you can't read it the cleaning action is probably not high enough.
It has to blast away the surface oxide layer.
 

Abe's 1987

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So aluminum welding actually isn't that hard.
I finally dialed in some good settings on my machine, and overall went smooth.
Just some scrap aluminum door trim from house remodel lying around.
By the 3rd practice bead I think it looks pretty good.
Have to move faster than steel, and takes quite a lot of heat.
But some of that is due to the A/C cleaning action dumping a portion of the heat into the tungsten.

Lots of shrinkage I noticed, have to feed one last dab of filler before you end the arc.
Otherwise a crater develops due to the shrinkage, just like candle wax.

Aluminum must be perfectly clean though and just wire wheeled or brushed clean. Acetone wipe helps too. Have to remove as much of the initial oxide as possible.

This will be good, as I need to make new intercooler piping/brackets ect...



May consider having you weld my ac line! Would definitely pay!
 

Piratetip

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Hah!
I could try if you want.

I'd have to find some Al tubing to practice on before doing the real thing.
 

Abe's 1987

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Hah!
I could try if you want.

I'd have to find some Al tubing to practice on before doing the real thing.
Yeah most definitely man, will most appreciate it. Let me know when your ready and ill definitely ship it out to ya.
 

Piratetip

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Yeah, shoot me a PM.
You can send it anytime.
 

Koenigturbo

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Took both gauge clusters apart and swapped the turbo tach into mine. Also replaced some of the gauge face screws (temp gauge below shows oxidation on the old screw on top, swapped screw on bottom) and attempted to learn how the odometer/trip counter works since my counter was broken and I had a spare with the other cluster. Only after I got to the point of being able to spin the odometer freely did I understand how they worked and realized my plan to swap the good unit into my gauge was flawed - both trip counters are nonfunctional. I did locate a plastic piece from mine that dropped on disassembly and managed to glue that back in place, getting the trip counter to reset successfully a few times. Only time will tell if I've screwed anything else up with the speedometer. Cleaned it up and back together, so many Phillips head screws.



In my opinion and if could have my way, . I d would switch the speedo and the tach around and the boost and the fuel around. But that's what I would do if I knew how.
 

Clip

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In my opinion and if could have my way, . I d would switch the speedo and the tach around and the boost and the fuel around. But that's what I would do if I knew how.
The printed circuits on the back will restrict that, as well as the gauge and housing construction - but anything is possible with cash.
 

Piratetip

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@Abe's 1987
Now this is tricky.
Prepping a bit before the A/C line shows up for repair.

I found some really thin walled aluminum tube from and old radiator from something.
I think it was out of a busted dehumidifier.

Anyway I managed to lay a bead down on some 0.5mm wall thickness Al tube!
Took a long time to get the settings right, A/C frequency, cleaning %, pulse on time, pulse frequency, pulse % of base amps ect..

Not final results obviously but just dialing in settings.
It's rediculously easy to blow a hole through this stuff.
Practice.
@Abe's 1987 what is the wall thickness on the tube you are sending me?

 
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Koenigturbo

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The printed circuits on the back will restrict that, as well as the gauge and housing construction - but anything is possible with cash.
Oh I know anything is possible with cash, that's why I haven't done it, I would mean almost all of it would have to be custom. it's just something that I wish it were better on the car. the way I want it makes more sense to me. .. boost next to the tach.
 

andrew_mx83

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When I did AC on my truck recently I got the shop to weld some ally lines and fittings etc, they brazed/soldered instead of TIG which surprised me but it worked!

Great work on the 0.5mm wall, I haven't tried any ally that thin yet.
 

Piratetip

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Yeah I figured if I can weld something this thin should be able to do the A/C line as well.
 

Abe's 1987

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@Abe's 1987
Now this is tricky.
Prepping a bit before the A/C line shows up for repair.

I found some really thin walled aluminum tube from and old radiator from something.
I think it was out of a busted dehumidifier.

Anyway I managed to lay a bead down on some 0.5mm wall thickness Al tube!
Took a long time to get the settings right, A/C frequency, cleaning %, pulse on time, pulse frequency, pulse % of base amps ect..

Not final results obviously but just dialing in settings.
It's rediculously easy to blow a hole through this stuff.
Practice.
@Abe's 1987 what is the wall thickness on the tube you are sending me?

Well darn i should have measured that for ya before I shipped it out. Ill look at my other line and let you know.