What did you do to your supra today? Pics

Abe's 1987

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I can't say anything, the little mom and pop down the street used two. Those guys were pretty good about figuring out the center of gravity :) probably would've used one if they weren't the type to allow for a safety factor.
It also helps them move faster on changing out tires. If i remember right talking to one of the staff members, they have a time quota they must meet for each car and normally are busy as heck so they try to rush cars out as quick as possible. But this does have its flaws. My brother has had issues with tires leaking right at the seal of the tire and rim becuase the job was rushed. Happened to him 5 times on 4 different cars.
 

Abe's 1987

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Yeah, I took note of that as well. I can't remember seeing it done that way before. Seems... inefficient.
Yeah would be logical to have those lifts at each station. Don't know why discount tires dose that. Maybe to pinch pennies.
 

thomsondavis

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The car's brakes were having problems, so it took me the whole morning to fix it. And have just installed a set of tires every season from michelin at the beginning of the week
 

sinistar_xx

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I completed my solo road trip today. Logged 1,286 miles, spending most of my waking hours behind the wheel, and avoiding people when it was time to stop. Can confirm that the A70 is a GREAT road trip vehicle. Comfortable, but smooth and planted and just sporty enough in the GT tradition. Of course, it was no beast when it came to overtaking slower traffic, especially compared to most modern cars, but it did the job. It held up mechanically just fine the whole way -- no overheating, electrical problems, or weird noises. Pushed it hard up steep mountain passes and through the high desert with the AC on as well. And while I didn't try to calculate it, the car seemed to be getting decent gas mileage.

That said, a couple of bad things happened on the morning right before I left. First, I took the car through a touchless car wash, and apparently I did a bad job with the driver-side targa seal replacement, as it leaked horribly in that area. Guess I will have to redo it. Held up fine in a rainstorm later on though. Second thing was the lamp failure indicator lit up for the first time ever. I figured it was the module itself, because I had just replaced all the bulbs earlier this year. This was potentially a showstopper as I was not about to get ticketed multiple times along the trip. But when I pulled the driver-side tail light assembly out, I saw one obviously bad bulb. Replaced it, the failure light went away, and was good to go.

Am not looking forward to cleaning up all the bug guts off the front bumper now...

Supra lens flare Dinosaur Monument.JPG
 

JustAnotherVictim

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Thanks, although it was relatively clean to start with. It was a bit of a puzzle to remember how things went back in, too, but I cleaned up along the way as well.

Today the Supra got a new set of tires. I wasn't planning on this, but I have the upcoming trip and when I was getting the spare tire replacement, the staff pointed out that my other tires were all 10-13 years old. Even though they have good tread, that did not sit well with me, so I had new tires put on today. Having a single day to get this done, I didn't have a lot of options, and ended up going with Goodyear Eagle Sport A/S tires, all in the stock size. Seem just fine so far. Unfortunately, one of the center caps is now missing. And I did inspect each TIRE before I left, but apparently glossed over the center cap area. Will call them in the morning and hopefully they have it.
Did you have them check the spare?
It almost always gets overlooked.
 

sinistar_xx

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Getting the spare replaced was the initial reason I went there.

BTW, they couldn't find the missing center cap, but the manager said he will order a replacement. And that's good, because replacement center caps are surprisingly expensive.

Also, I am pleased with the overall performance of the Goodyear Eagle Sport tires.
 

Piratetip

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Chopped up some steering shafts to make a new better one!
Kids shoe for scale :)
 

Piratetip

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Yeah already did.
I'll post up final photos tomorrow. :)
 

Piratetip

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All welded and back together.
Fits perfect, woo!
The new part I also notched to accept the shape of the old upper shaft as well. (Rectangular slot)
So it's not butt welded together on a flat face.
The welding hid that feature.
It's not going anywhere.

Has a nice splined section, but also contains a roller ball cage.
Quite a nice design.

Welds were not cleaned or ground down at all. (TIG)
The seal still fit over and clipped in place.

 
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btyler87

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Hi! New member here!
87 MKIII N/A
R154 swap by previous owner
116xxx miles
I blew the headgasket 6 years ago and finally made the time (read: worked up the guts to) this summer to tear it apart and replace. Well it's apart now, working on getting back together. First need to determine whether I need the head machined. Gasket wasn't blown too bad, imo based on some ive seen, see photos. The other issue I'm wrestling with is the small chip(s) in the block near a couple of the water jackets, that correspond to the gasket's damage. Any thoughts?
 

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Piratetip

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I would get the head and block machined based off those photos.
You have some evidence of corrosion/putting there.
Doubt it would last long if you simply just slapped on a new OEM head gasket.
 

Clip

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Trouble in paradise - went to turn the engine over with the EFI fuse out to see oil pressure on the gauge (after spinning the pump driveshaft itself) and the starter spun without engaging the flywheel. Took the starter off and bench tested it - first try was no good and second try (and the rest) everything worked as it was supposed to. Turned the engine over by hand, no issues. Starter is ready for reassembly tomorrow to see if it'll crank.
 

Clip

The Magnificent Seven
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After chewing on this a little more, I'm thinking the starter is faulty and I'll be doing myself a disservice reinstalling it. Flywheel teeth are good, pinion teeth are good, spun in the car when the key was turned so power/ground connections are good. So today I'll be ordering another reman.
 

Piratetip

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Who knew CV's were filled with Avacado oil.?
LOL
/s

 

Piratetip

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Old.

I'm swapping the inner plunge joint with another OEM set I have on hand.
With a couple other tweaks along the way.
I'll post up the details on what I did later.

Still need to drive the car but I'm hoping some of the backlash is reduced there.
 
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Piratetip

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Well I managed to get everything back together and on the ground again.
Went on a short drive in the dark.

I can say that the steering shaft / intermediate shaft modification was without a doubt worth doing.
It took care of nearly all the steering slop or dead on center feel.
Good thing I didn't try and dive into the steering rack again, this fixed all of it.
Would do again, steering is Soo much better now.
You don't realize how much slop that inner bonded rubber in the steering shaft causes until you replace it.

The CV inner plunge repair also feels much better than before.
Most of the noise is gone and the car feels smoother/crisper on and off throttle.
Overall just much better feeling.
The repacking with new grease probably helps significantly as well.

Back to driving this car to work again until something else breaks!
:D
 
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JDMMA70

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Why cant these companies at least make the upper section of intercooler piping for the 7M look decent. I wish we could still get Cooleze piping kits, or LIPP. CXRacing piping fits like dog shit. I know it works but I just wish it was more aesthetically pleasing and fix better.
 
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The Magnificent Seven
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Why cant these companies at least make the upper section of intercooler piping for the 7M look decent. I wish we could still get Cooleze piping kits, or LIPP. CXRacing piping fits like dog shit. I know it works but I just wish it was more aesthetically pleasing and fix better.
I agree. That was the part of the build I've been most unhappy with - piping that is hit or miss and looks like crap, cheap t bolt clamps (broke one last night when the stud let loose) and the silicone couplers could be better. I did it this way since I didn't have access to AC TIG, but it's only temporary til I do so I can get the fit and finish better. I even debated blasting it to a matte finish to try and hide it better.
 

Clip

The Magnificent Seven
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It runs! Last night I primed it with the starter til I saw oil pressure. I went back this morning and rechecked everything important, got the timing light out and put the diagnostic jumper in. Had a code 51 so checked the TPS like the book instructed - met all the criteria for good. Even so, adjusted it back to correct. Checked again and still had a code 51 so I swapped the known good TPS off of the GE (new about ten years ago) and readjusted it. Seemed like everything worked correctly, but I'm not convinced the first one is bad.

Got it timed, took it out for a quick drive and came back to top off the radiator. Finished the 20 mile break in and got the oil changed, and just finished up another ten miles after that.

Drives nice, there's a little shake early on with the car in neutral, think that my flywheel might be slightly off balance from resurfacing (machinist gave a heads up on this) but not noticeable driving. Back to driving this every day.
 

Clip

The Magnificent Seven
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Hit the 100 mile mark with non-detergent 30W. Side note - I can't believe how hard it is to find that stuff today. Got it parked and cooling ready for another oil and filter change tomorrow, this time to conventional 10W30. Now I just have to remember if I wanted to run that to 500 or 1000 miles til the next oil change.
 

Clip

The Magnificent Seven
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Did a few things tonight. Put several more miles on it (up to 170 now) and identified a few issues.
1) the turbo was starting to flutter or surge when I'd let off the throttle
2) the throttle linkage seems to stick the first time I use it after it sits
3) if I shift to neutral and let off the gas quickly at the same time from a load, idle dips down into stall territory, stalled a few times

I'm thinking issues 2 and 3 might be solved by opening the book and adjusting all parts of the throttle linkage to factory specs, then looking for any burrs and putting some more lube on the pivots/slides. Also rechecking the dashpot and TPS adjustments.

For the first issue, I found the little filter that came with the fake SSQV had distorted quite a bit from being above the fun side of the engine and was either closing off or causing a vacuum leak. I hadn't intended to use this but it was a handy adapter to go from 1/4 to 1/8 vacuum line to connect the BOV. I didn't want to run to Lowes and be disappointed when I couldn't find the right hose barb in the right length, so I made my own. The 1/8 vac line slides up to the bevel and the 1/4 just barely starts to fit over it to hide the reducer completely. Now it looks like I just jammed two hoses together - a little humor included under the hood.



 

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The Magnificent Seven
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Aw jeez, now I'm on the spot. Hm... Ok. How about this?

Your charcoal canister is really letting down that engine bay. It looks like it's actually made out of charred coal.








How'd I do? :D
I approve. +1 for using fire-related imagery for the burn.

Here's a good comparison. If it all goes well I can even use the factory bracket.


 
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Piratetip

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That's a nice space savings there.
What's the smaller one from?
 

Clip

The Magnificent Seven
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95 4Runner, looks like most of the older 4 cylinder pickups, Tacoma's and 4Runners used this one.

It has all gone horribly wrong though, what was a simple swap has resulted in the downpipe off the car and TIG welder coming out.
 

Piratetip

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Haha. Yup
The cascading fixes never end really.
 

Clip

The Magnificent Seven
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Nice looking diff!

Finally got everything back together. An easy switch to the 4Runner can, then I test-fit the Innovate HBX-1 to the downpipe since the bung wasn't 24" downstream from the turbo outlet. Like an idiot, I didn't put anti-seize on and it locked down tight, luckily very close to the index mark that locates the inlet of the spacer. The impact gun couldn't back it out, the ratchet and breaker bar budged it enough to index it. So the rotary tool came out, cut off the brass crush washer and seal-welded with stainless rod. Now it won't move, and I remembered to put a coat of anti-seize on the plug while I collect the electrical to install the SCG-1. Also put on the old test pipe while the downpipe was out while I'm waiting for the high-flow cat.

To finish it off, I went to put on the undercover and found that the hot side intake pipe was too low, and starting to wear a little where the sway bar was rubbing on it. Had to take the compressor housing off to remove the roll pin, then clocked it and reinserted the snap ring. Finally got the new undercover on after that, still have to pick up a few longer M6 bolts to make some room for the oil thermostat and the larger piping.







 
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Piratetip

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I like how much room that smaller canister frees up.
Lookin good!
 

Dave 1jz

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Well I managed to get everything back together and on the ground again.
Went on a short drive in the dark.

I can say that the steering shaft / intermediate shaft modification was without a doubt worth doing.
It took care of nearly all the steering slop or dead on center feel.
Good thing I didn't try and dive into the steering rack again, this fixed all of it.
Would do again, steering is Soo much better now.
You don't realize how much slop that inner bonded rubber in the steering shaft causes until you replace it.

The CV inner plunge repair also feels much better than before.
Most of the noise is gone and the car feels smoother/crisper on and off throttle.
Overall just much better feeling.
The repacking with new grease probably helps significantly as well.

Back to driving this car to work again until something else breaks!
:D
Nice one, i also still enjoy the Lexus steering column, so much better! :)
 
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XofXtimeX

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Nice looking diff!

Finally got everything back together. An easy switch to the 4Runner can, then I test-fit the Innovate HXB-1 to the downpipe since the bung wasn't 24" downstream from the turbo outlet. Like an idiot, I didn't put anti-seize on and it locked down tight, luckily very close to the index mark that locates the inlet of the spacer. The impact gun couldn't back it out, the ratchet and breaker bar budged it enough to index it. So the rotary tool came out, cut off the brass crush washer and seal-welded with stainless rod. Now it won't move, and I remembered to put a coat of anti-seize on the plug while I collect the electrical to install the SCG-1. Also put on the old test pipe while the downpipe was out while I'm waiting for the high-flow cat.

To finish it off, I went to put on the undercover and found that the hot side intake pipe was too low, and starting to wear a little where the sway bar was rubbing on it. Had to take the compressor housing off to remove the roll pin, then clocked it and reinserted the snap ring. Finally got the new undercover on after that, still have to pick up a few longer M6 bolts to make some room for the oil thermostat and the larger piping.

[IMAGES]
Looks really sweet! I removed my charcoal canister in 07, but I'd like to add it back in. I'll be sure to keep my eyes peeled for one from the older 4Runners. Great work!

-Nick
 
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