What did you do to your supra today? Pics

Piratetip

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Hah, yup.
I've done the same thing with one of those adapters.
Mine was the black chrome molybdenum style though.
 

Abe's 1987

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Can't even count how many adapters I've snapped. Then again I always end up buying cheap ones anyways. I've always been tempted to grab a snap on set.
 

Clip

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Forgot to say, swapped my upper timing cover to the new engine. And since the GTE nameplate isn't available anymore (except for ridiculous money on eBay), this will be a 7M-GE with a turbo personality.
 

sinistar_xx

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Vanity pic because I finished up the rear suspension work today and finally get to restore the rear interior. In my thread on this topic, I mentioned the test drive went great, but I had forgotten something: when doing hard left turns, the low coolant light made a temporary appearance. Last time I saw that was late last year, under the same condition, but it didn't come back until tonight. It didn't happen with pretty much the same test drive the other night. Reading now about checking the coolant overflow container... and the possibility of a BHG. I know from service records that's been done, but in the late '90s. No fluids dripping on the driveway. I'll check the overflow tomorrow.

Supra 8-8-2020.JPG
 
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Piratetip

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Well after some further diagnosis and checking the drivetrain:
Its not the U-Joints.

That drivetrain noise is coming from the inner plunge joints on the CV shafts.
Quite a bit of free play in both sides.

So I might pickup a new set of half shafts and/or take mine apart to see what has worn out.

Interesting, as I don't recall hearing many or any issues with our CV shafts prior.
 

Piratetip

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Question for everyone.

Have you replaced your CV axles?
If so what brand did you go with?

I would prefer to get the OEM inner plunge joint repair parts from Toyota, but those appear to be discontinued....

I am debating swapping the inner CV parts in mine with an extra set I have on hand, though those still have a tiny bit of play in them.

Or I might chance a set of aftermarket ones... Have my doubts with that though...

Does Toyota still sell OEM CV's?
I can't find any in stock from what I can tell.
 

debrucer

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Question for everyone.

Have you replaced your CV axles?
If so what brand did you go with?

I would prefer to get the OEM inner plunge joint repair parts from Toyota, but those appear to be discontinued....

I am debating swapping the inner CV parts in mine with an extra set I have on hand, though those still have a tiny bit of play in them.

Or I might chance a set of aftermarket ones... Have my doubts with that though...

Does Toyota still sell OEM CV's?
I can't find any in stock from what I can tell.
This isn't exactly a valid recommendation since the car hasn't been on the road since 2006.

I went with "Rear half shafts, axles (rebuilt) ($104)" in 2015. I believe the seller was Kragen Auto Parts.

I'll let you know how they hold up about the same time that I order a new diff :)
 
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The Magnificent Seven
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I'm still on the originals with 236k on them. Probably wouldn't hurt to do the same as @debrucer just mentioned, swap at the same time a rebuilt diff goes in...if only I knew someone who rebuilt diffs...:)
 

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It's so close now. Radiator, fans, shroud are all in and belts are tensioned. I started to connect some electrical and ran into this difference from 89-90. Anyone have an idea on this connector? I'm flipping through my TEWD right now and it's connector C-1 on page 27, but I want to verify the rest of the info before I cut mine off of my 89 harness to swap since one of the wires changed color.




 

Piratetip

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Yeah mine have around 168k on em, but they have gotten pretty sloppy. Strange.
I'll try an aftermarket set as well as rebuilding this OEM set.
See which one feels better.
 

suprarx7nut

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It's so close now. Radiator, fans, shroud are all in and belts are tensioned. I started to connect some electrical and ran into this difference from 89-90. Anyone have an idea on this connector? I'm flipping through my TEWD right now and it's connector C-1 on page 27, but I want to verify the rest of the info before I cut mine off of my 89 harness to swap since one of the wires changed color.




The downside of your epic engine block cleanliness is that your EVAP canister, cruise control and power steering pump now look like hell. :p
 
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The downside of your epic engine block cleanliness is that your EVAP canister, cruise control and power steering pump now look like hell. :p
I was looking at the charcoal canister today while bolting on the new O2 sensor. I think when I relocate it to make room for the wideband (eventually with the standalone) I'll have to give it a paint job. Maybe even go crazy again and continue the color scheme.
 

suprarx7nut

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Hmm... $400 for 1 CV.
Anyone do this?
Let me help you out here.

McGeorge Toyota - $232
 

Piratetip

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Ok just to update everyone reading on the story with the Toyota CV shafts.
They are all discontinued, there is no new CV shafts available from Toyota anymore.

I called McGeorge Toyota just now and spoke to their parts guy.
All discontinued.

So it's aftermarket or low mileage shafts only now.

Mark another one for Toyota Heritage parts.
 
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Piratetip

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Yeah those and cardone are the only options anymore.
I might try a set of what rockauto lists and see if they are any good internally.

Otherwise I might just rebuild the ones I have.
Swap some parts around.

On another note, I picked up a nice new welding helmet.
Lots of adjustments, works great and big viewing window.
I like!
 

Piratetip

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Going to pick up a set of the GSP axles.
Not getting warm vibes from Surtrak ones.

Will also rebuild my OEM ones and see which feels better.
 
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Just found this today, a series of videos about rebuilding a 7M head. Some cool info I didn't know about, including the oil passages and how the cam bearing surfaces are oiled:
 
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Started repinning the body connectors. Luckily a 1990 NA was still in the yard and I was able to get some spares so I'll now have an 89 with 90 connections under the dash. And a few 89-specific under the hood. I'm trying to note everything I change in my TEWD, since I'm sure I'll forget it as soon as it's running.
 
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Things done tonight:
Finished repinning 90 B1
Added 90 B2
Swapped back to 89 C1, rerouted the NA AFM ground to the AC switch 2 and spliced it in to the correct circuit
ECU in
Air filter adapter bolted on
Air filter washed and drying (K&N)
Battery charged
Misc electrical connected
Windshield trim put back on, glued one of the plastic inserts and it subsequently broke again when I tried to use it. Oh well.
Retorqued the driveshaft center bearing since I came across the torque spec
Added some more locking ties to the downpipe wrap (never buying DEI locking ties again, they're awful)
Swapped to a recirculating fitting (had to sand to fit) in my DM SSKV (super sequential knockoff valve)
Fitted and tightened hot side intercooler piping
Fitted cold side intercooler piping but didn't tighten - still have to install AFM, accordian pipe, etc.

And to the two people who came up with long leg 90 couplers and hump couplers, I owe you a drink. Was able to fit everything with no trimming or hammering, no small feat considering the piping is bigger, the oil lines are bigger, the sway bar is bigger - starting to run short on room. Soon the cardboard comes off of the intercooler!




 

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Took both gauge clusters apart and swapped the turbo tach into mine. Also replaced some of the gauge face screws (temp gauge below shows oxidation on the old screw on top, swapped screw on bottom) and attempted to learn how the odometer/trip counter works since my counter was broken and I had a spare with the other cluster. Only after I got to the point of being able to spin the odometer freely did I understand how they worked and realized my plan to swap the good unit into my gauge was flawed - both trip counters are nonfunctional. I did locate a plastic piece from mine that dropped on disassembly and managed to glue that back in place, getting the trip counter to reset successfully a few times. Only time will tell if I've screwed anything else up with the speedometer. Cleaned it up and back together, so many Phillips head screws.



 
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Clip

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Back together, now with a boost gauge. Clutch pedal free play adjusted, climate control swapped while I was in there too. I'm happy with the gauge install but it's only temporary - when the dash gets replaced and I go to an AEM Infinity I'll be getting the BTI dual screen gauge. Not too worried about the screens being below line of sight since I'm thinking it's got a peak/hold feature.

 

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Steering wheel without cape leather ?
The leather looked really rough, peeling and falling apart so I cut the stitching and removed it. Same for the shift knob a few years earlier. I'm still going back and forth between that new round weighted one and the old classic.
 

Abe's 1987

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The leather looked really rough, peeling and falling apart so I cut the stitching and removed it. Same for the shift knob a few years earlier. I'm still going back and forth between that new round weighted one and the old classic.
I may do that as well. My leather is cracked and peeling away on my steering wheel.
 

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The color match isn't so bad as in the pic, but the low light mode and auto level adjustment kind of messed with it.
 

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After being removed since February, the rear interior panels and trim are all back in place. I opted to get the spare tire replaced today as well, as I suspected it to be the original that came with the car when new.

Pro tip: They don't need to be removed, but loosen up the interior quarter panels before attempting to remove the rear interior panels. This will allow for access to a screw on each side that is covered by the rear edge of those panels. Those mounting points on my car are snapped off because I didn't have this pro tip. :/

cargo hatch panels reinstalled august 2020.jpg

cargo hatch new spare tire august 2020.jpg
cargo hatch driver side.jpg
cargo hatch passenger side.jpg
 
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sinistar_xx

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Man that is clean. Nice job!
Thanks, although it was relatively clean to start with. It was a bit of a puzzle to remember how things went back in, too, but I cleaned up along the way as well.

Today the Supra got a new set of tires. I wasn't planning on this, but I have the upcoming trip and when I was getting the spare tire replacement, the staff pointed out that my other tires were all 10-13 years old. Even though they have good tread, that did not sit well with me, so I had new tires put on today. Having a single day to get this done, I didn't have a lot of options, and ended up going with Goodyear Eagle Sport A/S tires, all in the stock size. Seem just fine so far. Unfortunately, one of the center caps is now missing. And I did inspect each TIRE before I left, but apparently glossed over the center cap area. Will call them in the morning and hopefully they have it.

Car at tire shop.jpg


new front tire goodyear eagle sport.jpg
rear tire new goodyear eagle sport.jpg
 
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Doesn't look like you have locking lug nuts on there but after the tire shop kept my lock one time (and I found out during a flat tire event) I always check that as well.
 

Piratetip

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That is an interesting way to lift the car.
4 floor jacks :D
 

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I can't say anything, the little mom and pop down the street used two. Those guys were pretty good about figuring out the center of gravity :) probably would've used one if they weren't the type to allow for a safety factor.