What did you do to your supra today? Pics

Piratetip

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Agreed.
Some bearings are just not made the same.
I've encountered this on differential rebuilds a couple times with Timken bearings.
They simply were not made to the same specs as the NSK, NTN, Nachi, Koyo ones.

I only ever use the good stuff these days, not worth the headache of others.
 

Clip

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Victory! Went to Napa and picked up part number P6201RSJ and it had a fit just like the Nachi. Bore measures a hair over .473, just like Nachi. Well worth the $3.51 not to have to mess with the DM bearing.

Now, inner race says Shuster China 6201 2RS 11AJS but at this point I'm going to leave well enough alone. When it fails and it's time to rebuild the engine again, I'm going with parts as @Piratetip suggested above - quality seals and bearings by the known companies.
 

debrucer

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Victory! Went to Napa and picked up part number P6201RSJ and it had a fit just like the Nachi. Bore measures a hair over .473, just like Nachi. Well worth the $3.51 not to have to mess with the DM bearing.

Now, inner race says Shuster China 6201 2RS 11AJS but at this point I'm going to leave well enough alone. When it fails and it's time to rebuild the engine again, I'm going with parts as @Piratetip suggested above - quality seals and bearings by the known companies.
That's what we thought we were doing with parts from Aaron :(

We'll see what he says on Monday... in the meantime, I'll try to hit NAPA somewhere.

Thanks @Clip and @Piratetip
 

Clip

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That's what we thought we were doing with parts from Aaron :(

We'll see what he says on Monday... in the meantime, I'll try to hit NAPA somewhere.

Thanks @Clip and @Piratetip
Agreed. Although sadly I've noticed that more and more of the DM stuff needs an asterisk, especially with this clutch kit.

I won't stop ordering from them, but for certain items I've learned to buy elsewhere. And @debrucer, thanks for bringing this up in a timely manner. I called Napa within three minutes of closing and they ran my payment by phone and left the bearing outside the door. Progress continues!

 

Piratetip

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Unfortunately he is likely buying those unbranded bearings for very cheap in bulk.
Which is honestly pretty dissapointing.
 

debrucer

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@Clip @Piratetip Aaron's response today...
The bearing is not the problem, your input shaft is damaged. You'll need to have the input shaft repaired or replaced. We see that happen when an old pilot bearing seizes, it starts spinning on the input shaft the damages it.

Aaron
 

Piratetip

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Nice looking engine Clip!
Did you swap out those 2 crush washers on the huge rear coolant banjo bolt?
 
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Piratetip

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Eh, that's not quite right, if the inner race was spinning on the input shaft the OD would decrease not increase. (Wearing metal away.)

Do you see any radial damage on your input shaft @debrucer ?

Or do you see a raised lip anywhere?

If you and Clip are measuring the same OD, that's pretty good evidence that bearing is made wrong.
 

debrucer

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Eh, that's not quite right, if the inner race was spinning on the input shaft the OD would decrease not increase. (Wearing metal away.)

Do you see any radial damage on your input shaft @debrucer ?

Or do you see a raised lip anywhere?

If you and Clip are measuring the same OD, that's pretty good evidence that bearing is made wrong.
My input shaft has a taper on the end... and that's as far as the bearing slides on easily. There's a bit of a lip where the taper ends and the shaft starts... and that's were I measured to get .471"

Since Aaron was kind enough to answer on Saturday, I sent him the link to this discussion. His answers are usually gospel :)

Emery paper, where are you?
 

Clip

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I'm confident in my measurements, in two Japanese bearings and a decent quality (I hope) Napa bearing. If I'm measuring about a thou difference between the DM bearing and a Nachi (and Napa), I'm going to say the DM bearing is too tight for the input shaft.

Thanks for the compliment! I didn't touch the banjo bolt at the back of the head on this rebuild, so we'll see how it holds up. I believe it to be a reman head as when I started I found a small medallion glued on that said "guarantee void if removed." It subsequently fell off, but I'm guessing they've been replaced sometime during the reman process.
 
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debrucer

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WIth just one swipe at that lip with a dry rag, the bearing went on. Now I can't get it off, of course, but I'm not going to fool with it at the moment. My BMW is in the driveway with the intake manifold coming off... got to get back to work on that :)

This will be revolved. Thanks to all here.

David
 
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Piratetip

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I just don't like that approach if the bearing is actually made differently.
You could hone the shaft smaller to make that specific bearing fit, but then later if you get the correct sized bearing it will be too loose.
 

Piratetip

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WIth just one swipe at that lip with a dry rag, the bearing went on. Now I can't get it off, of course, but I'm not going to fool with it at the moment. My BMW is in the driveway with the intake manifold coming off... got to get back to work on that :)

This will be revolved. Thanks to all here.

David
That sounds promising!
 

Clip

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Pictures here for posterity, Nachi first and DM second. At some point, the engine and transmission will have to be uncoupled again and I'd hate to end up with an interference fit on the pilot bearing. I'd say the DM is within manufacturing tolerances and therefore, nothing is wrong with it. But, that company's tolerances don't seem to be the same as NSK, Nachi or Koyo.

Edit: if both of us have a DM pilot bearing and they ACTUALLY measure between .470" and .472", that scares me. This is, of course, ignoring all differences in measuring instruments.






 

Piratetip

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So about a half a thous.
Any radial damage on your shaft clip?
 

Clip

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Zero. All two pilot bearings never seized (original to 189k miles, NSK to the current 236k). No lips, gouges, etc.
 
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Clip

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Fresh ground flywheel going on with ARP bolts, we're getting close now! Machine shop had a tough time getting it flat so might have a little more vibration now, hard to tell. But hopefully natural frequency and my typical driving RPMs don't match up.

 

debrucer

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Beautiful @Clip

I'm so far behind you. It took me a month to get the pilot bearing issue sorted out... well, for me it's not sorted out. I never made it to NAPA. It sure was a help having you doing numbers for me to compare. We definitely both made out on timing. Now, if I can just get my BMW running tomorrow :)

Good night (well, prolly good morning for you)
 
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Clip

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I gotta confess, I love the look of the P-Type Mk2s as well. Almost as much as the Mk3. That one looks crazy with the paint scheme.

Sounds like we're running at the same speed - I pulled this motor back in 2018 about this time and it sat on a stand since :)
 

debrucer

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Aaron called me today to elaborate on the bearing issue. My input shaft has at least one of the flaws he's seen with his company repairing and rebuilding 100s of R154 transmissions. Remember, by simply cleaning my input shaft with acetone the bearing slid on, and yes, it was difficult to get off... and that would have to be due to a slight mushrooming of the tip of the shaft. As to why my prior pilot bearing was crushed as it was, I have to mark that up to me. It was the same bearing brand/part no. My bad for forcing it, and when it snapped and the last two inches came together, I knew it was wrong. I don't think we need to blame DriftMotion's bearing... they've sold 1000s of them, same brand and part number. I am not getting a NAPA bearing, but will use a bit of emery paper on the shaft and proceed with caution :)
 
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Clip

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Thanks for passing that on. Glad DM worked with you on the issue and followed up. At this point I think I'm settling on sticking with Nachi or NSK as their tolerances seem to agree with my tolerances.
 
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Clip

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Finally got the oil filter and thermostat mounted. Tried to line the filter up with clearance for the intercooler piping but won't know for sure till I get the other 90 degree couplers in to make the final connection to the intercooler. Fittings on the thermostat aren't set yet, just had them on for test fits.



 

Clip

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Another milestone. Got the oil lines assembled and routed (not easy with -10 line), and finally primed the oil pump. after priming and circulating oil for a little bit, the dipstick reads "Full" after a total of 7.5 qts. Ran it with a drill and found a few leaks that were fixed, and had some time to wrap the downpipe with DEI wrap.



 

Clip

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Wow what were the details on those? I used Aeroquip hose and fittings, with Eaton assembly lube following their assembly instructions. I hesitate to use hose clamps when Eaton says "never use hose clamps with FBV Socketless."
 
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Push lock hose came off the fitting halfway through a dyno pull and emptied all the oil onto the floor then welded the bearing to the crank. Brand new forged 7m-ge build, brand new hose and fittings. Expensive mistake.

I believe the hose softens with heat and doesnt hold onto the fittings properly.

0/10 would not recommend to anyone.
 
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Clip

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Brand of hose and fittings?

Eaton's spec sheet says 300F is the upper operating range. It'll be interesting to see what these do, as assembly went smoothly with their lubricant.

Let it be known to SM that I'm giving Andrew first rights to "I told you so" when these fail.
 
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Piratetip

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Depends on what style hose clamp.
I am getting deja Vu, I feel like we have covered this topic before.
 

Clip

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Depends on what style hose clamp.
I am getting deja Vu, I feel like we have covered this topic before.
Have we?

If so, I'm guessing the recommendation was against a worm-drive clamp and probably suggested an Oetiker.

I did find this on the Proflow website which I found interesting:

Proflow’s 400 series rubber hose is avalable in Blue or Black and is designed to be used with E85, diesel, methanol, coolant, oil, air, transmission fluid and vacuum. Its spiral synthetic yarn reinforcement allows it to be used up to 250 psi and its smooth synthetic rubber outer makes it perfect for automotive and marine applications.

To ensure perfect fit, use Proflow 400 series fittings and adaptors. It is recommended that in high pressure and temperature applications, the use of a clamp may be required.
 

Piratetip

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Anyone want to see the Supra rear suspension in work?
I shot this video trying to diagnose some clunking noise I cannot figure out.
Thought it was something in one of the control arms or trailing links or something.

I think I've figured it out now, thanks to the video.
Towards the middle I was forcing it to make the suspect noise.
Pretty sure ive nailed it down to some worn U-Joints.
Its pretty amazing how different the noise sounds inside the cabin vs. at the camera mounted back there.
Makes diagnosing a lot easier.
Something to tackle over the winter. :D

Anyway for anyone that's interested in a look at the rear suspension:


I have another noise up in the front that I will probably do the same thing with.
 

Clip

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All belt-driven components in place. Also found out that my 1/2-3/8 adapter will not take 195 ft-lb of torque. Had to dig out the impact socket like I should've in the first place. Exhaust is now a full 3" except for the cat. I've got two flanges and 3" pipe but think I'll be ordering a high-flow cat to be a little nicer to mother nature.