What did you do to your supra today? Pics

Clip

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I think I will, with all the pics and time I'm putting into it.

Did what I never want to do to a car, but sometimes it just has to be done:


 

Clip

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This is ridiculous. Finally got the intercooler in a location I'm happy with but now I'm working with the side mounting points Treadstone uses. After two failed attempts at some complex bends with aluminum, I'm going to pick up some plain old steel and do what I know how to do: cut and weld piece by piece too I've got it secured. From there on out it's "hammer to fit, paint to match"

Don't mind my cardboard armor and mockups for coupler clearance. And notice with this short core, I've got plenty of space to mount the oil cooler where it should be, close to it's stock location.

 
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Abe's 1987

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This is ridiculous. Finally got the intercooler in a location I'm happy with but now I'm working with the side mounting points Treadstone uses. After two failed attempts at some complex bends with aluminum, I'm going to pick up some plain old steel and do what I know how to do: cut and weld piece by piece too I've got it secured. From there on out it's "hammer to fit, paint to match"

Don't mind my cardboard armor and mockups for coupler clearance.

I had gotten a 1/8" by 3/4" by 4ft long steel piece from home depot to make brackets to relocate my 7m power steering reservoir for my 1jz swap and a small bracket for my charcoal canister. I used a bench vise, hammer, and brut strength to make the bends needed for the brackets to fit. It takes patience and time going back and forth to get those bends perfect. I didn't really want to use aluminum with the houston heat mixed with the heat the engine gives off.
 
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Clip

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I think where I went wrong was expecting too much from the aluminum. Easy to cold work it too much and tear it when I'm trying very long bends and very short bend radii. HRS might have been the better choice here.
 

sinistar_xx

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Replaced the driver-side targa seal last night, as I got a lap full of water after a heavy rain a while back. The old seal was glued in pretty good and tore to pieces when pulling it out, so the pick/hook tools from Harbor Freight helped clean out the rails, as you can't really get a flat head screwdriver or other typical tools in there very well due to the curve and overall access. I dunno if it's the best option, but I used 3M Black Super Weatherstrip and Gasket Adhesive for installation of the new seal.

IMG-9897.jpg

IMG-9896.jpg

IMG-9892.jpg
 

Abe's 1987

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Replaced the driver-side targa seal last night, as I got a lap full of water after a heavy rain a while back. The old seal was glued in pretty good and tore to pieces when pulling it out, so the pick/hook tools from Harbor Freight helped clean out the rails, as you can't really get a flat head screwdriver or other typical tools in there very well due to the curve and overall access. I dunno if it's the best option, but I used 3M Black Super Weatherstrip and Gasket Adhesive for installation of the new seal.

View attachment 84320

View attachment 84321

View attachment 84322
Was the replacement seal a new one or used one?
 

sinistar_xx

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It was brand new. In the last pic you can see it shown separately, with some yellow and white tape pieces covering some adhesive patches applied at the factory.
 
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Clip

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Big night tonight. Flipped the mode switch from garage to fab shop. The intercooler holds itself now! I ran out of tabs so I've got to cut a handful more tomorrow and make one more brace for top driver side, then add two more at the bottom and tie them in to the lowers. After I'm happy with how it sits, I'll add in a brace so they become a left and a right bracket, and fully weld and paint everything. The crowning touch will be welding some nuts onto the back so the IC bolts in straight from the front with one wrench.













 

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So I just finished up my little "let's see if we can get this driver-side window to roll up and down a bit smoother and rattle less" project tonight, and holy crap, this was a case where it would have been best to leave well-enough alone. Once I got in there, I discovered some issues and just made things worse until I returned to it tonight.

Supra door window exposed.jpg

Some things of note:
  • Even though the window was closing and sealing well enough, when I got into the internals, one of the white plastic "hooks" that bolt to the glass was broken, so I had to track down a replacement off eBay. You really want both of those in place and not broken.
  • When I got the freshly greased regulator and glass back in, the back end of the window was not going up far enough for some reason, so it wouldn't seal properly on the top end. For the longest time I could not figure out why and wasted too much time fiddling with a bunch of parts documented in the manual as possible adjustments. It wasn't until tonight that I realized the OTHER white hook, the one to the rear, was not oriented correctly, and therefore missing the insertion point of the stopper up top. Once I got that adjusted, the glass became aligned correctly.
  • I bought one of those Dorman (742-600) motors to replace the original Toyota motor, and was surprised that the bolt holes were not tapped/threaded. Fortunately, you can use the original screws still and they basically self-tap in the Dorman motor holes.
  • Problem #2 with the Dorman motor is that the wiring is reversed, therefore up is down and down is up with the window switch (I still need one, btw, and am using an imperfect but working one for now). However, the plug Dorman uses is designed to make it easy to swap the wires and tabs around, so that problem was easily solved with a small flat-head screwdriver.
  • While replacing that one broken hook, I noticed some of the other bits bolted to the glass were not in great shape. Luckily replacement hook I got from eBay came with basically a whole set for that stuff, so I replaced more as needed.
  • I was able to fluff up the interior trim support pads, both outer and inner ones, but the outer ones pretty much went right back to being mashed flat. The inner ones are still looking better though.
So now the window goes up and down quite smoothly, and the Dorman motor is no slouch. HOWEVER, right after I got everything buttoned back up, I noticed that the front upper end of the glass was not going up quite far enough and getting a proper seal, with maybe just shy of a 1/8" gap. I observed that if I rolled the window up with the door open, it would go up a bit further, and when the door is closed, it's a proper seal. Needless to say, I'm going to proceed with that little workaround rather than go back into the guts yet again...
 

Clip

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Intercooler and oil cooler finally mounted. Paint is drying on the brackets now. I ended up with 1/3 of the intercooler behind the bumper itself, so a Shine Auto Turbo A duct is on its way to me to take care of that. Think if I had to do it again (and it wasn't a months long lead time) I'd go with Treadstone's TRV185 and put the oil cooler behind it. I'm happy everything sits in the stock location, with room to assemble -10AN fittings.


 
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Piratetip

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I had a fun day.
Watched a car take the front off another at a red light.
Then that car continues moving in an arc coming straight across the front of my car. (I'm sitting in the front at a red)
The car did about a 90 degree spin after being hit, then did another 90 degrees in an arc continuing to move.
By the time the car stopped it had done a complete 180 and was moving back in the direction she was coming from.

I somehow managed to act fast enough to put it in reverse and back up just enough where there is just a tiny scrape across the front bumper.
The body on my car is far from perfect so it ended up being just another mark of "character" on it.

Got really really lucky with that one.

After looking at her car I have no idea how it was still moving, the front right tire was completely buckled.
She must have just stayed on the gas is the only thing I can think of. Probably was in shock and never took her foot off the gas. (Front wheel drive minivan)
 
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Abe's 1987

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I had a fun day.
Watched a car take the front off another at a red light.
Then that car continues moving in an arc coming straight across the front of my car. (I'm sitting in the front at a red)
The car did about a 90 degree spin after being hit, then did another 90 degrees in an arc continuing to move.
By the time the car stopped it had done a complete 180 and was moving back in the direction she was coming from.

I somehow managed to act fast enough to put it in reverse and back up just enough where there is just a tiny scrape across the front bumper.
The body on my car is far from perfect so it ended up being just another mark of "character" on it.

Got really really lucky with that one.

After looking at her car I have no idea how it was still moving, the front right tire was completely buckled.
She must have just stayed on the gas is the only thing I can think of. Probably was in shock and never took her foot off the gas. (Front wheel drive minivan)
Were you driving your supra?
 

Abe's 1987

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Yikes, good thing you had your quick response to preventing any major damage to your supra.
 

Piratetip

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Yeah accidents are crazy, they happen so fast.
I wasn't even really a part of the major hit but had difficulty remembering all the events accurately.

Reaction time is key, but you typically only end up watching the events in awe.
Like deer in headlights.
LOL!

Apparently the vehicle that went into the intersection on red and got hit did not have working brakes.
He said he was standing on them and pumping them but it would not stop.

I see weird stuff on the roads all the time around here.
Actually installed a front and rear dash cam to my Civic to record all these events, or if someone hits me.

I have yet to put one of those in my Supra though...
 

Abe's 1987

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Yeah accidents are crazy, they happen so fast.
I wasn't even really a part of the major hit but had difficulty remembering all the events accurately.

Reaction time is key, but you typically only end up watching the events in awe.
Like deer in headlights.
LOL!

Apparently the vehicle that went into the intersection on red and got hit did not have working brakes.
He said he was standing on them and pumping them but it would not stop.

I see weird stuff on the roads all the time around here.
Actually installed a front and rear dash cam to my Civic to record all these events, or if someone hits me.

I have yet to put one of those in my Supra though...
Yeah dashcams are key to a good defense. The dashcam got me a heafty check from the insurance when a f150 side swiped my bmw. Got me a 2013 lexus gs 350 awd f sport from it. Glad I got the change of cars. Im enjoying the lexus much more.
 
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Abe's 1987

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Yeah I posted some photos awhile back.
Paint and body are all original, it's ok from a distance but up close looks like 1987 paint.
Here is one:
Sweet ride, I love the two tone. And you said it is original paint? Very well kept supra I'd say. Is that dark blue on light blue?
 

suprarx7nut

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@Clip You're killing it with the good content lately. Thanks for all the pics. Reminds me of SM when I was in college and the obsession began. People busy building cool stuff and sharing on here. Which then reminds me of Mike's passing. Damn. Alas...

Yeah accidents are crazy, they happen so fast.
I wasn't even really a part of the major hit but had difficulty remembering all the events accurately.

Reaction time is key, but you typically only end up watching the events in awe.
Like deer in headlights.
LOL!

Apparently the vehicle that went into the intersection on red and got hit did not have working brakes.
He said he was standing on them and pumping them but it would not stop.

I see weird stuff on the roads all the time around here.
Actually installed a front and rear dash cam to my Civic to record all these events, or if someone hits me.

I have yet to put one of those in my Supra though...
That's one of my "to-do's" before getting the Supra up again. Dash cams front and rear. I have them on my other cars. Good to have for sure. So cheap now you just have to have em. I'm actually surprised insurance companies haven't started sponsoring their use in customer cars. Makes the adjuster's job a lot easier, I imagine.

Yeah I posted some photos awhile back.
Paint and body are all original, it's ok from a distance but up close looks like 1987 paint.
Here is one:
Yum. Looks very good. I can't recall seeing ANY two tone cars in person that clean. Definitely a rarity.
 

sinistar_xx

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I have dashcams on all my cars. I started with one on my daily SUV several years ago, and now it just feels weird to drive in a car without one. When I drive my Supra or MR2, I'm mostly worried and paranoid I'm gonna get rearended at the stoplight -- don't really think of getting a front end swipe though. But yeah, too many people not paying attention with their phones and whatever else...
 

Clip

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@Clip You're killing it with the good content lately. Thanks for all the pics. Reminds me of SM when I was in college and the obsession began. People busy building cool stuff and sharing on here. Which then reminds me of Mike's passing. Damn. Alas...
Thanks! The turbo swap has been something I've always wanted to do, and now I have some time and resources so figured I'd do it right. Or at least not halfway.

I remember when this place was a madhouse with builds and projects and a real community spirit. Glad there are a still a few of us left that can watch progress and offer advice.

These brackets look weird as heck off the car, almost like they grew by themselves. But they hold the coolers the right way, which is what I need. Also got the motor mounts on which was a lot more frustrating than anticipated, going from the '90 round to 89 square. Tomorrow the pilot bearing and flywheel go on, followed by the clutch and transmission and then into the car.


 

debrucer

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@Clip Have you tried fitting your pilot bearing on the input shaft of the transmission?

I got mine from DriftMotion and tried it this morning. It only fits on the end/tapered part of the shaft, just like the crushed one I took off.

Please do let me know. I'm in the garage now pondering what to do. Wrote Aaron, but he shouldn't answer until Monday... at which time I will call him anyway :)

Thanks! Good luck today.

The bracket looks great, btw.

David
 

Clip

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@Clip Have you tried fitting your pilot bearing on the input shaft of the transmission?

I got mine from DriftMotion and tried it this morning. It only fits on the end/tapered part of the shaft, just like the crushed one I took off.

Please do let me know. I'm in the garage now pondering what to do. Wrote Aaron, but he shouldn't answer until Monday... at which time I will call him anyway :)

Thanks! Good luck today.

The bracket looks great, btw.

David
Man you've got great timing, I just got the old one out and I'm test fitting the new one as I write this. Stay tuned!
 
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Clip

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@debrucer, @Piratetip just mic'd mine as well - 0.4723 If I'm remembering how to read my mic.

The bearing that worked in my GE is an NSK 6201DU, the bearing that came out of the GTE/R154 was a Nachi 6201NK, and DM sent me an unknown 6201RS. Inner race looks thicker than the Nachi but similar to the NGK. Now for the bad news - it's a tight freaking fit on the input shaft. Calipers measure the inner race ID at .472. The Nachi measures an easy .473 and is a nice slip fit. Think I'll clean what little oxidation off the input shaft and maybe try to polish the inner race of the new bearing to try and get any imperceptible burrs off it and go for it. The throwout bearing as well had a composite ID and came with an improper spring clip retainer, so I reused my old one to hold it to the fork. Not that I'm against composites or polymers, just wasn't expecting that.
 
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Piratetip

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I'd stick with a known Nachi or NSK bearing.
The last time I put my trans back together I had zero issues easily sliding the input shaft into the pilot bearing.

It really shouldn't be so tight you have to force it on.
 
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debrucer

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@debrucer, @Piratetip just mic'd mine as well - 0.4723 If I'm remembering how to read my mic.

The bearing that worked in my GE is an NGK 6201DU, the bearing that came out of the GTE/R154 was a Nachi 6201NK, and DM sent me an unknown 6201RS. Inner race looks thicker than the Nachi but similar to the NGK. Now for the bad news - it's a tight freaking fit on the input shaft. Calipers measure the inner race ID at .472. The Nachi measures an easy .473 and is a nice slip fit. Think I'll clean what little oxidation off the input shaft and maybe try to polish the inner race of the new bearing to try and get any imperceptible burrs off it and go for it. The throwout bearing as well had a composite ID and came with an improper spring clip retainer, so I reused my old one to hold it to the fork. Not that I'm against composites or polymers, just wasn't expecting that.
My inner race varies betwen .470" and .471" (new bearing. can't find the old one yet).
 

Clip

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I'd stick with a known Nachi or NSK bearing.
The last time I put my trans back together I had zero issues easily sliding the input shaft into the pilot bearing.

It really shouldn't be so tight you have to force it on.
Agreed. Cleaned up the input shaft and it's measuring .4722". After seeing a whole thou difference I called Napa and got a Rayloc 6201 price of $3. Going to pick it up now, don't want to screw with an unknown bearing with a small bore.
 
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